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  2. That log shows it running incredibly rich, try bringing it back closer to your target afr
  3. Fixed my MAP source still can't get the car to idle at all for some reason, could base timing still be an issues? here are my logs. PC Datalog - 2020-09-28 8;21;53 pm.llgx FC3S S4 6Port Turbo.pclx
  4. @Adamwhi... All plugs are similar resistor type. I'll check the inside of the dizzy later, maybe there's some debris by the tooth. If it matters, the stock coil is actually only connected as a trigger to my old high energy capacitive discharge ignition box Mallory 6EZL. The stock igniter and ignition box are both grounded directly to cylinder head with a thick gauge wire (to minimize the ground loop). The ECU wire loom came through the right side of the car, then all ignition related wires came through the left side. I have adjusted the trigger 2 arming threshold @1000rpm to 2.5V, b
  5. Hello All, 2006 Subaru STI - Link ECU WRX104 V10 Using the setting from the help file currently for cam/crank. Car is running and driving with no issues as far as I can tell. But upon turning off the car and running into the store for 15 mins then restating the car, its hard to restart (still need to fine tune hot restart numbers). I see that Trigger 1 has a few errors and "Trigger 1 State" shows Test Gap and or Blank teeth. Attaching Calibration file and big log, restart is around 18mins in. Trigger scope log attached if needed. Log File: https:
  6. I'm not sure what to do with the Lambda heater wire. I have an Innovate LC-1 that's been working fine for me with my previous system and that system did not call for a specific input into the ECU for the heater wire. I only connected the signal wire from the LC-1 to the ECU and it worked fine. Please advise, can I just hook up the signal wire from LC-1 to the G4+ or do I need to take the heater wire from the LC-1 and hook that up as well? Not sure why it matters. Thanks in advance
  7. Yesterday
  8. An oscilation is an unstable control loop - it means your throttle PID needs work. Best way to do this is leave it in set up mode, set up a time plot with TP main and TP target overlaid and adjust PID one at a time while moving the throttle - you will soon see the effect that each setting has. Do these engines have the clutched throttle like a 1UZ? I dont see any aux output set up for the clutch. There are settings for the 1UZ throttle in the help file.
  9. The help file sums it up pretty well. To get all benefits from modelled you need good injector data, a fuel press sensor and a fuel temp sensor.
  10. Correct. Can you attach your ECU map.
  11. Yep, add the boost parameters below as well as percentage Fcut and percentage Icut.
  12. It looks like youve got something coming through your ground circuit as there is a spike on both triggers at the same time. Looks like the spark event form just one cylinder. Is there anything different in one cylinder like a non-resistor spark plug or something? Try bumping the arming threshold on trigger 2 at 1000RPM up top about 1.5 or 2V might help. Also check your rotor phasing - to do this, turn the engine over by hand to about 15-20°BTDC, then pull the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor is nicely centered under one of the cap posts. If not, rotate the distributo
  13. Does anyone have PID settings for a late model hemi throttle body? I believe it's made by Magnetti Marelli and uses a brushless motor. Here's a link to one on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114222082292 Any help is greatly appreciated!
  14. Hi all, after some help. Currently have a high compression honda b series engine, running dual fuel and ignition tables for low and high cam. I'm about to upgrade injectors and in traditional as it is now needs retuning. Which I'm OK with but I keep seeing about modelled fuel tables over traditional and wondering if this would benefit me in any way and is it a worthwhile switch?? Can anyone outline the pros/cons with both please be much appreciated.
  15. Fantastic , lucky i guess that it matches a ford BTR trans temp sender. Thankyou
  16. Here's how it looks like... VID_20200928_171159.mp4
  17. Ok I have had it start and run on all cylinders so most of it must be right. Having a heap of trouble with getting the E-throttle to work correctly though. I calibrated the FPS not a problem, Calibrating the TPS I had errors for Cannot achieve 98%. Reading through a few files on here I swapped the TPS sub and Main and then it seemed to calibrate ok, and sometimes the throttle works ok in setup mode if you move it slowly, but if you move it too fast you get the throttle plate oscillating back and forth very quickly. In on mode it does this then errors and stop
  18. trigger scope looks ok... or maybe I should raise the arming threshold?
  19. Thanks Adam, was fine on dyno , and it's its a bit hard to drive a rally stage with a laptop in the car, if there is something you recommend for logging to ecu to be turned on ?
  20. Hi there, recently purchased a link mxs strada 1.2 dash and cannot get any measured data from the ecu, the ecu in question is Audi TT Link G4+ I am getting a few can 1 errors on my ECU, I am pretty sure all the can settings are correct. Am I correct in saying it’s only pin 3 and pin 4 of the canF plug that needs to be connected to can Hi & Lo and that no additional earths need to be added to the CanF adapter? Might I add that I have already tried swapping the hi & lo wires to check I didn’t have them round the wrong way. any help or advise would be much appreciated
  21. Can you do a log at idle when fan off then on. Do another at 2000rpm and 3000rpm driving. Also post your map.
  22. You really need to do a PC log so all the relevant paramaters are logged. Cant really tell you anything from that. It doesnt look like there is much closed loop action going on so possibly needs more derivative.
  23. sorry Logs attached to first post.
  24. Thanks Adam, i had thought of doing a 4d table to address it, and thats fine, however not understanding the real cause of it is bugging me. At the end of the day I want to move on, but not knowing is annoying. i feel like i tell myself to move on, but cant do it! I have already moved on many times...... All good, i will update down the track if I come up with anything of interest!
  25. It will mean your basic VE numbers are off, but I would still expect it to behave correctly. Earlier you had a log where the AFR changed with fan status even when the car was driving (ie not idle), so I dont think putting a hole in the VE around the idle area is going to be the solution. I would probably take care of it by trying something more like Ducie's suggestion of a 4D fuel table activated with the fan.
  26. If i had entered the base flow at 400Kpa it would be correct, however i put it at 300Kpa. I will change it to 400Kpa like it should have been. So it looks like i need a hole in my VE table, rather than a smooth transition that I am expecting? Is it not odd to need to reduce the VE with an increase in MAP?
  27. Note, unless you have an aftermarket ECU, this will not work. The output from the factory ECU (which has an ignitor built-in), produces the exact opposite signal of what these coils require. You will fry the coils in a matter of minutes, and if it does actually run for more than a minute then your ignition timing will give extreme advanace with RPM as your coils will be firing on the dwell edge rather than the spark edge.
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