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  2. If I have a map open and a log file, which did not log lambda target, is there a way to add the currently opened maps lambda target in the timeplot graph? Seems like it would be a handy option to have.
  3. motomattx

    Big cam idle strategy

    I do use tps instead of map, I think the idle could be better though That might be an idea, have you used it? Im kind of trying to cut back on the hunting/cycling of idle rpm as much as I can too.
  4. mapper

    Clear Fault Code over CAN or ECU Input

    Ah thats great! Haven't know that. You should at that to Website and help fault fault code list.
  5. managed to get the lambda working also. Looks like you need to purchase and unlock the full version otherwise it comes up asking you to purchase looks great, can you share that skin?
  6. Steve

    Big cam idle strategy

    Use tps at low rpm instead of map
  7. BlackBeautyGermany

    Storm Toyota 4efte Trigger Help needed

    Hi, i have installed my new Storm Ecu this weekend. I have problems to set up the right trigger option. I use the original distributor for direct spark ignition. The distributor i wired like the description from link. Whats the right setting for trigger 1 and 2?
  8. rrob

    Big cam idle strategy

    Rotational idle/cyclic idle. Just zero out the rest of the Antilag tables.
  9. DSORDA

    Fury CAN issue

    Hey Guys, Just having a wee issue setting up some CAN settings between the Fury, AIM MXL dash, Motec PDM and keypad. I've previously had the Fury and the Dash working faultlessly, and only started acting up when the new settings were put in for the PDM and keypad, so something is conflicting. The keypad works fine, and all the keypresses are working accordingly to activate boost tables, antilag etc etc. The issue is, the Dash will not display live data any more. It will merely display a 'snipit' of the data upon power-up, and stay at that value unchanged. This is for all channels I have displayed through the Dash from the ecu, speed, oil pressure, fuel pressure etc etc. My only guess is its something conflicting in the new CAN settings, but I'm a bit out of my depth with CAN protocol. If someone can spot anything obvious in my settings, that'd be great. AIM MXL settings have all been used as per the help file. Only thing to note is the CAN has been hardwired to CAN2 (B Plug loom) and I tried a 10Hz transmit rate as per another thread, with no success Cheers Ian DSORDA CAN Issue.pclr
  10. Yeah, sorry, as per my post on the previous page this was something I overlooked when testing initially. The existing serial stream doesnt output the "Lambda 1/2" parameters. I will have asked engineering to add this but it wont be for a while unfortunately.
  11. M1tch

    Basemap?

    Thank you - will give it a try, I have a spare MAF and temp sensor in the garage so will try and look up the part numbers - might just be simpler to go with a known sensor and values though but will try and get things sorted using the stock sensors - thank you so much for your help so far on this! Edit - just looking at alternative coolant sensors online, there is one listed with a resistance of 2080, 280 which i am guessing is the max and min resistance of the sensor - tempted to simply swap out the temp sensor though as it should be fairly easy to get to on the engine although it does seem to have a different connector typically! I think I have found something that might be of use - not sure if it matches off with any other sensor though: Water temp sensor Intake air temp I *think* these are the calibrations I am after - seem to be the same as GM: Degrees F - Degrees C - Ohms-40º / -40 / 100,7000º / -18 / 25,00020º / -7 / 13,50040º / 4 / 7,50070º / 21 / 3,400100º / 38 / 1,800160º / 71 / 450210º / 99 / 185 Looks like the air intake temp sensor might also be matching the GM data: http://pe-ltd.com/assets/air_temp.pdf Sounds like it might be easier to repin the ECT and IAT sensors to the AN Temp pins rather than the AN Volt pins that they currently are so I can use the 'off the shelf' calibrations rather than a cal table.
  12. Adamw

    Basemap?

    The unknown with the temp sensors is the value of the pull-up in the stock ecu. Judging from the example temperatures you gave above Im going to hazzard a guess that the pull-up is about 3Kohm. Can you try changing your cal 1 set up to Volts rather than ohms and input the numbers below.
  13. M1tch

    Basemap?

    I have changed the MAP cal table so its now at 0.5, with regards to the temp sensors, I might look to swap the pins over to the AN temp inputs, although I can see that its using a cal table and AN volt at the moment - seems quite odd that the PnP harness would use those inputs. The sensors are Denso so will try and find the calibration figures for them, I do have a intake air temp sensors still to install (instead of using the MAF) which has the calibration data for it so might see if I can get that installed and use that instead - might be able to use the wiring on the stock plug to wire it in as a simpler solution to get me going. http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=181 I might also look to get a coolant temp sensor as well to replace the stock one if that makes things easier as well: http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125
  14. motomattx

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Absolutely! I run the older one in my drag car, remember that the older cas is adjustable and you need to use a timing light to set the base timing after you install it and get it to run.
  15. Adamw

    Traction Control Switch

    You would no longer have DI 7 wet/dry switch. The DI5 traction disable would still work.
  16. crazynick505

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    I do have an older CAS sitting around that I grabbed a while ago in case I needed to use it. Might be worth giving that a go by the sounds
  17. motomattx

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Im saying just the cam sensor was what worked for us over here in the states on our early 2g 7 bolt cars when we wanted to run the older ecu or the newer ecu and it sounds like what you might need to do, what seemed to work easily for us was to use the older 6 bolt cas which provides both the cam and crank signal for the ecu.
  18. motomattx

    Big cam idle strategy

    Im wondering if it could be a strategy to use a type of fuel cut strategy to get a decent idle when using big cams (288 and over)? my thought would be to set the actual throttle stop to get the car to idle around 2000-2500 rpm or so and then use fuel cut to keep the idle steady at around 1000 rpm, it seems that it might be a better way to go about getting idle to work with big cams and alcohol/big injectors, it seems that the car really doesnt get enough intake air using just the iac strategy also the iac doesnt really react quickly enough on most cars with big cams to prevent stalling or stumbling when coming down from high rpm, and even though it can mostly be worked out with fine adjustments it seems that this might be an easier way to go about it? maybe not.
  19. crazynick505

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Oh right, you did say just the cam sensor I've got the stock ECU back in to do the run in for a little while but I'll be giving this a go shortly after so keen to see if this helps out. The second scope log in my above post shows the Evo 1-6 Trigger setting with the Trigger2 edge changed over to rising. Does that look correct? I have no idea what it is meant to look like haha. Thanks for the help
  20. motomattx

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    I would guess that swapping the edges on the cam sensor would be the way, the crank sensor in the case of our 1g vs 95-96 (2ga) cars works ok, its just the cam sensor under the cam gear that is reversed, they went back to the 1g type of cam signal in 97-99 with the cam sensor being mounted back on the other end of the intake camshaft.
  21. crazynick505

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Ahhhh righto, so would that just be a case of swapping the edges on both triggers around?
  22. lostsoul

    Traction Control Switch

    Hey Adam, I have been going over the adjustments you made for me and have some questions. Do I have to retain DI 7 toggle switch (currently activating Slip Table 2 ) ? If not is OK to have just 1 slip Table activated by the DI 5 Traction on/off switch?
  23. M1tch

    Basemap?

    Thank you, will sort that out, just need to work on the calibration of the temp sensors. Still have the MAF attached which is being used for the air temp, I do have another air temp sensor to use at some point. Wanted to start off with how it's been wired together by Boomslang etc.
  24. Yesterday
  25. @Adamw is there any way to get internal wideband to display on this app? Setting it up now and cannot find an option for internal lambda. (Thunder ECU) Guessing this might have to be part of your update of the data stream?
  26. motomattx

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    The 2ga style of cam sensors operate backwards from the 1g or 2gb cars do.
  27. crazynick505

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    I have attached the scopes while cranking for Evo 1-6 trigger mode, Evo 1-6 trigger mode with trig2 set to rising and Evo 7-9 mode. They all seem to be off and generating trigger errors I found that my sensors are the 2g style 7-bolt 4g63 type sensors (One on the crank pulley and one on the cam gear). I'm not sure if this would make a difference here? Also, do you happen to have an example of what the scope should look like? Thanks heaps.
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