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  1. Today
  2. Any chance you have a youtube video for these tests?
  3. Most of the basics are working in that log so it would be a good idea to try the injector test and ignition test to confirm your injectors are clicking and you have spark. Even though RPM is reading mostly right, there is one big spike at the start of cranking and trigger errors are clocking up. So that may still indicate there is potentially a trigger issue too. You would really need an oscilloscope to confirm that so start with the injector/ign test first. Also pull a plug out and make sure it is sparking when cranking.
  4. Thanks i will look at that....i just uploaded about 8 seconds of cranking with fuel pump enabled
  5. This video is for a G4+ but you will find the procedure is much the same in the Vipec. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  6. Yesterday
  7. Thanks, the idle target was 10 deg but i forgot to put it back when messing around so I can reset that no problem. The knock sensor is indeed a single wire Toyota unit and a new one is on my to do list but for now this is what I have to work with.
  8. Yes rpm confirmed. Now I’ll have to figure out how to log. What should be included? Sorry all new to me. My good intentions of cleaning up unused wires has put me back a bit. Attached and fingers crossed Log 8-07-20 7;56;39 pm.llg
  9. ok, thanks very much.
  10. Use the logged value
  11. Adamw

    Launch on and off

    It is not even reaching the launch limit. I suspect with 50deg retard and 50% of the fuel removed the engine isnt making enough torque to even reach the launch limit. Zero out the fuel trim table for a start. Maybe back the retard off to half the values you have as well. Why are you using fuel cut? Even with launch control working well you are never going to produce high exhaust energy when using fuel cut so boost build will be slow.
  12. Thanks @Vaughan. I already have that log, I just wasn't sure if I really need to use the logged gear ratio calc value or I need to manually calculate them with the Hz values of the speed input. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMooP4vHvlmpIRD7Tg One more thing just to confirm, for the 5th gear, should I enter 1 as it is in the default map or should I use the logged 28.6 value and I don't need to divide the values by 5 right? Thanks
  13. Flandrs

    Launch on and off

    Hi Was out testing this today and it seemed to work better, but it takes like forever to build boost.. It wasn't like that before (same engine hardware) is there something that you would like to change in my tune and maybe it will work better? could upload the last log as it was to big.. 0708-2.pclr launch logg.llg
  14. Adamw


    There are maps for both the single vvt and dual/quad vvt 350Z already in PC Link. If you mean for the HR engine then im not sure we do but I can give you some guidance.
  15. Yes, RPM will confirm if the problem is related to triggers or not. If you have RPM then I would suggest doing a short log of it cranking and attach it here so we can see if there are any other clues. Yes there are injector and ignition test functions in the software.
  16. No, I think it needs to be improved a little further, I dont like that oscilation you have on opening (one oscilation is normal but you have 2 or 3). Generally I dont like to see the error accumulator go above 10% with heavy throttle use. Im not sure which factor is causing it so you will have to experiment adjusting one at a time.
  17. Awesome cheers buddy, I am going to use them then but I'll have to run new cables Anyways as they have to go a further distance so mayaswell put new ones in
  18. Adamw

    Very low Gain values

    The idle gains look ok but normally I have it higher than that - I find D is usually not wanted and any D usually just makes the idle less smooth for me. In every car I have done so far I have found best idle control and anti-stall properties with P around 1.0-2.0 and D= 0. Also, I would usually have the ignition idle target down around 10deg with the max clamp at 25 or 30 so you've got more opportunity for a larger torque increase when needed. Your knock gains do not look correct to me, I suspect you may have a single wire resonant type sensor which outputs a much higher voltage than the more common types and usually dont work well - many toyotas for instance. With the gains so low you will probably find at high load the knock input max voltage will be reached so the signal will start clipping. If not then it should be fine but that's what I normally see when the gains are so low.
  19. go for a short drive while logging the gear ratio calc runtime value, when you look at your log you should see 5 (or 6) defined steps in that runtime, highest step value is gear 1, lowest is your top gear, set the gear detection type to user defined and enter those values into your table. I'll fix that bit of help up and do some more investigation of the software. Think it can get a bit confused if the values in the table aren't consistently getting smaller from right to left.
  20. if you connect new wires to the O2 signal and heater pins then they can indeed be used as a spare An Volt and Aux respectively. But if you are going to do this you may as well add new CAN wires and reuse the existing O2 wiring for your Analog and Aux functions (unless you are using your analog and aux in the cabin in which case you don't have to run the wires through the loom to the engine bay).
  21. @Adamw i have do a few test with the bosch e-throttle with the setting suggested. i do a few pedal move fast and slow and after i set two different value in the e-throttle table.. what do you think? P 7 I 0137 D50.llg
  22. Thanks for the replies, since this is my first time tuning I was doubting myself as it wasn't clear that these values could go below 1
  23. One last thing, could the oxy heater and signal now be used for something else... Say an oil pressure sensor? Or are those 2 ports on the ecu now totally redundant? Thanks!
  24. Hi Wondering if anyone have a basemap for lastest model 350Z with twin VVT I am using Link Thunder with many thx....
  25. Yeah I use similar values.
  26. Thank you for your quick response. Thought I was onto my problem. Yes, the cam sensor is powered by 12V along with the 5V pin. I rotated the motor and saw that working correctly. I can connect via laptop and will check this evening for rpm. I cannot imagine that any of the wires I removed would have caused this. They were all (I second guess myself now) cut and bundled by the previous owner when he did the motor and ECU conversion. If no rpm seen on laptop I assume the sensor is the culprit. If rpm is seen, what would I look for next? Is there a test for power to the injectors or igniters I can do?
  27. Ok, so right now I am bit nervous and confused too. Tried to do the calibration, but no luck. Tried it like 20 times or more and I just can't get it to calibrate. It always displays error-try again. Tried it in all gears, flat road, up hill, doesn't matter. So I thought to do the manual table entry, but that is confusing. The help says the table contains RPM/speed in Hz, but it also says we can use the the gear ratio calc runtime value, which is RPM/speed in kph. Did some sample calculation and obviously these end up with quite different result. So can you let me know which one should be actually used? I am also confused by the statement that the values in the table are divided by the gear that is specified as 1:1, but when user defined is selected in the setup, this 1:1 gear selection is not displayed. So should I divide all the values I calculate with 5 and store it like that in the table? As always, thanks for the help with this.
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