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  2. Spyrosgeo

    Alteza plug-in

    Sorry, i forget to report that i have this problem with pin connected so i disconected and i have the same result.
  3. Yes, I check it and the pinout is correct, white wire on (canH) pin4 and the green wire is on pin3 (canL) I try to set different, 500k and the other option, same result. No finding. My dealer will change the Modul for warranty.. I'm confused about the incorrect working on Wednesday with the lambda average error and the next day it don't find it anymore. So it must happens anything to the Modul I test different wiring connections on the bus wire options, crimping, screwing.. All the same Can1 can2....
  4. Today
  5. Hi! I have a Nissan Plug-in ECU wich runs the Link firmware. I would like to run Realdash via Bluetooth. Is this possible? If so, what hardware would I need? I have tried via USB and it finds the ECU but it gets an error, so maybe this is an easier route to go.
  6. Can you double check can high is connected to the white wire on the can lambda and can lo is connected to the green wire. And also have you tried 500k in the speed setting as occasionally they can be set to this. HTH, Richard.
  7. For a plug and play solution it's a little bit hard to handle it, I look for a oscilloscope, can you explain what I must do when I got one? I have nobody around with any link with an can setup to try it on a another ecu
  8. Hello, I have nobody with a oscilloscope, but I try it with can1 and it is the same, so I think anything is not ok with the lambda module. I wait a half year for delivering and now this, I'm not ok with this. An now?
  9. Get some integral gain in there now and that will close up that long term drift.
  10. Update, I've been able to test a few more value tonight, getting there. Here is the latest setup and result with the log. Any comment welcome. Simon-Gagnon-Subaru STI V10 G4X Xtreme Plugin-V1-3-6.pclx ECU Log 2020-07-10 9;51;21 pm.llgx
  11. Yesterday
  12. Sorry, after giving it more thought this morning, measuring resistance across the CAN wires with ignition off is no use as the termination resistor inside the ECU will be disconnected when power is off. You cant really check with it powered up as the CAN data will upset the resistance measurement. The the measurement results that you have got earlier are normal. Yes, that is normal, if the lambda device doesnt receive a valid CAN measage from the ecu within 15 seconds of power up then it will power up the heater. So this observation means your Lambda device has got power but no CAN message. The CAN errors in the Runtimes screen means the ECU is sending out data but not getting any acknowledge message. Do you have or know anyone with an oscilloscope you could borrow to put on the CAN wires? Or are you able to temporarily move your CAN wires from the CAN 2 pins to the CAN 1 pins? You can possibly just hold them on the pins by hand as a test.
  13. That last one again looks pretty similar to the P=8 but it is closer to values that I would normally run. If you ECU log at 100Hz instead of PC log you will see a bit more detail of the response difference but you will never notice any difference in real life and both of these look quite acceptable.
  14. Vaughan just pointed out to me that it is probably not showing up in logging because it is a new parameter that you havent added to your logging list. So go to PC logging setup and hit "Add all" again.
  15. To now, I try another wiring, not direct from the ecu to the Modul where sitting my external terminate resistor too Now I try a paralell can H/L wiring line with two 120ohm terminate resistor, one on both ends Now I messured 60ohm between can h/L everywhere But with no another result, it's stay the same problem, same errors and no finding in the can settings Im wondering about the can settings was finding ok, after maybe 5 finding test on Wednesday (but with lambda average error) Then next day by connect the laptop to ecu coming the canbus error and I can't finding the module in can settings I messured all time my external terminate resistor, without any resistor I messured 39kilo ohm, anything happens to my can2 A another thing I have test, DI9 and DI10 set to a gp input against negative ground, that was ok and work fine (I see it on the F12 ecu info) I now the DI are not the can, but for any info maybe it helps for the very curious problem. When i connect the module for searching in the can settings (without result) , the O2 sensor heading up and stay hot, the Modul is warm too, but not hot
  16. @adamw , ok .. i have try the last test, it's P6 I0.080 D40.. any suggest for improve or it's acceptable? P6 I0080 D40 Frequency 500.llg
  17. Ok from beginning Only the loose single can from ecu have 478k ohm messured Only the loose module have 43k ohm messured Only connect the lambda module with ecu connect have 39k ohm messured on the module When i put the loose 120ohm terminate resistance to the module, I messured everywhere 119ohm That's I'm wondering about All messured ignition off
  18. The ECU has a 120ohm resistor inside. You say you have a 120ohm resistor at the CAN lambda end. So total combined resistance when you measure across the CAN wires should be about 60ohm, not 119ohm that you say you measure. So there is a disconnection somewhere. One of the CAN wires is not making proper contact at one end. Check that the pins in the DTM connector are pushed all the way home, I have seen those push back out before if they are not inserted into the housing all the way until the barb locks them.
  19. When the clutch is disengaged there is no longer a fixed relationship between RPM & speed, so the gear cant be calculated.
  20. Yes I have on the end the terminating resistor (119ohm) Thats the value what I messured on the ecu plug, module plug Without the terminating resistor I messured 40K ohm between Can H/L In the ecu software I set the Di9 DI10 off When I go to the Can menu and set can1 and can2 to off and apply then ignition off and on, all can Infos are green (ok make sense) When I set can2 to the can lambda the errors are there vom golf test.pclr
  21. Ok, thanks Adam. I already put in manually the values, but I like to play, so will try again the calibration with normalization OFF. The gears seem to be calculating well most of the times though, except at downshifts. Not sure why that is and why that is not happening all the time. Screenshot: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMoxrGLhAy5MyofcOA
  22. So that suggest either you dont have the terminating resistor fitted or one end is disconnected. Did you fit a 120ohm terminating resistor at the CAN lambda plug? That doesnt usually stop them from working but it is proper practice to have a resistor at the end.
  23. Hello adamw and thanks for the very fast answer I messured how you want, I have everytime a resistance from 119ohm (my resistance) between my can high and can low. Equal I messured on the connector to the Modul, or on my can high and can low cable from the ecu (key ignition off)
  24. Ah okay, that makes a lot of sense. I was actually already planning on doing the crankshaft trigger wheel but I started wondering if I was over complicating things after finding and reading that thread. Thanks for the advice!
  25. They all actually look quite acceptable, and the error accumulator is good now. But yes I tend to agree the P8 I 0.080 D 60 is probably the best with slightly better response when closing.
  26. But the ST185 didnt have a air temp sensor - or are you using a coolant temp sensor? I asked you to measure the resistance. What was the resistance at 20deg?
  27. Your screen shots suggest you have a CAN bus wiring problem. With the ignition off, can you measure the resistance across the CANH/L wires. Do this with everything still plugged in by "back probing" at one of the connectors by pushing a couple of pins or paperclips or similar down through the wire seals into the terminals. You should have about 60ohms if both ends are connected and the terminating resistor is there.
  28. That will all be set automatically when you choose LS2/LS7. I would expect falling on both.
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