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  1. Today
  2. M1tch

    Basemap?

    I have now installed a new AEM MAP sensor - its a 5 BAR one as the 3.5 BAR was out of stock so I have adjusted the sensor calculation for the different scale vs voltage. Good news is that the car fired up! I had it idling with the master fuel at around 6ms, it was initially set to something like 19 which basically had loads of fuel and smoke out the back as it was running richer than 8:1. I have my wideband plugged in, however not yet inputting to the ECU - the open barrel crimp tool is on its way but wanted to get it fired up initially. I have attached a log for my initial start up, I can see the sensor calibration still isn't quite right as its showing a high ECT when the engine is cold as well as a high intake air temp which I think is messing with things - its showing a ECT of 67c with a cold engine and 61C intake temp rather than mid 20s. At 6ms on the master fuel the AFR on cold start was at around 11.5:1, seems to go lean and stall out if I blip the throttle so I am guessing that the cold start enrichment is keeping it running - once I have the wideband O2 plugged into the ECU I should be able to use the autotune option. The basemap is based off a tuned boosted Toyota Yaris (so would only be using the off boost part of the map!). Thank you so much for everyone who has helped so far, getting there but I just need a few bit of help to get the car idling and running as it should do - not taken it out as of yet as I know the sensors aren't calibrated correctly as well as not having the AFRs logging at the moment. 1zz boomlang with 5 bar MAP.pclr Log 2018-07-21 11;24;51 am.llg
  3. Adamw

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Yes, and the Evo 7 mode.
  4. crazynick505

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Hmmmmm I think there must be a difference in the way timing is set up on my Super Sports gear against the Hyper Gears/Evo 3s I just swapped my stock ecu back in and it runs fine :S I might have to do a bit more research into the differences between the two engines. Would it still be worth trying the Trigger 2 rising config?
  5. Adamw

    Clear Fault Code over CAN or ECU Input

    This trick is not documented well so just in case you didnt know of it I will paste it here:
  6. Adamw

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Something definitely is not normal with that triggerscope. The phasing between the cam and crank looks quite different to what we expect. Maybe cam timing is out or the other thing I have seen happen is the crank disc put on back to front. Im not sure if either of these ideas will work or not but try changing trig 2 edge to rising. If that doesnt work you could try the Evo 7-9 trigger mode. You will need to re-do the base timing after either of these changes.
  7. crazynick505

    Mitsubishi RVR - EvoLink G4+ Trigger Issue?

    Hey guys, I have just hooked up a EvoLink G4+ to my Mitsubishi RVR that has just been through a fresh rebuild of the bottom end. It is a Super Sports Gear model, so I'm not 100% sure if it is all exactly the same as an evo 3 engine but does look to be. I have been able to get everything calibrated and try a test start but have found it to not really want to run well and gives me constant trigger errors. I have attached a trigger scope log. Can anyone tell me if the scope looks good? I can't seem to find any definitive information on Link ECUs and these RVR engines but I know people get them to work somehow :P I feel like it may have something to do with the coil setup being slightly different but I'm not 100% sure there either. I have also attached a pic of the way my stock coils are set up. I swapped cylinder 2 & 3 with 1 & 4 and this seemed to run (but not well). If I leave them in the stock position it doesn't seem to want to fire at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  8. Yesterday
  9. Brad Burnett

    A way to delay WOT on ethrottle (kind of a launch control)

    you could easily just set the e throttle table up so that at lower rpm where 100% ap only equals like 60% tp.
  10. Use a second E Throttle Target table Use a combination or a Launch Switch a Virtual Aux and a Timer.
  11. Steve

    Recovery from quick throttle blips, bogs down

    Yourewelcome. Sidenote. I am also using the same parameter on a idletarget offset table. Works sort of the same way. When dRPM drops more than -500 my idletarget increases by 500 rpm. This helps "catch" the engine and sets it down nice and slow. Havent seen a way to do something like that in the Link yet though. Could have done it with a 3D idletarget table but its not possible as of now...
  12. jetape

    Recovery from quick throttle blips, bogs down

    Ah that would be helpful, RPM is falling very fast especially at the point when the ski regains contact with the water so if the idle ignition trim kicked in at the right (wrong) moment it could send it way below idle. Will experiment with it, thanks
  13. I would like to have a function clear fault codes which can be activated over an ECU Input or over CAN. We set up customer Dashes that every fault code is shown as plain text message. It will be good that the customer can clear the fault code with a press on the Dash or an external switch.
  14. Steve

    Recovery from quick throttle blips, bogs down

    ROC stands for Rate Of Change. Or dRPM (delta RPM) if thats a more failiar term. Its a parameter that tells you how fast rpm is changing pr second. If it rises from 2000 to 3000 rpm in one second you have a value of 1000. Does it use 2 seconds to do the same ROC is 500. If rpm is dead stable ROC is 0. In the attached picture you can see an example. Base timing in that is 12 degrees but when rpm drops when i clutch the car (it is usually more than -1000 dRPM) timing is at about 22 degrees falling towards idle arget. Dropping as dRPM drops. Thats not a screenshot from the link software but the same can be done there.
  15. This may sound a little weird but is there a way to delay how quickly WOT is reached after 100% throttle is requested? I'm thinking of a way to add a kind of launch control on a jetski. If you just smash it wide open from stand still it will bounce off the rev limiter couple of times. What I'd like to happen would be when 100% throttle is requested it would translate to 60% right away, then a short delay and up to 100% It doesn't really sound possible from what I've seen in PCLink but maybe there's another way to accomplish what I want. There is no speed input available short of adding a gps sensor.
  16. simba7

    G4+ Fault Codes In Impreza 99

    Thanks for your response Adam. I have a GC Classic 99 Turbo non WRX. I will look for the MAP sensor. The hose I still physically have a Lambda connected from Stock but I dont know if the ECU was tuned with it in mind. How would I check this? Can it be the Lambda also? Thanks
  17. ClintBHP

    Wide band lambda

    Don't mess about with other types of wideband just fit a CAN Lambda, it works perfectly does not need calibrating and once tuned you can have it in Closed Loop mode and have perfect fuelling resulting in great economy.
  18. Adamw

    Wide band lambda

    Correct, if you want to tune yourself then you will need some sort of wideband controller. If it is going to a tuner then you dont need one as they will use their own. There is no onboard wideband controller on the plug-in ECU's. Our CAN lambda is nice and gives extra functionality that 3rd parties dont but you are not limited in any way to just the Link CAN lambda, you can use pretty much any 3rd party lambda controller whether CAN based or analog output type.
  19. lostsoul

    Traction Control Switch

    Perfect ... I would never have figured this out, your a legend.
  20. Kev Sheridan

    Wide band lambda

    Hi I have a g4+ plug in on an Audi TT am I right in thinking I need a can lambda kit to read wide band on pclink? The car has a wide band sensor but the ecu doesn’t seam to be able to read it. Or have I just not got the setting right? Thanks
  21. Adamw

    Traction Control Switch

    Ok, attached your map modified to suit a 12pos switch connected to AN Volt 6. You will notice I have set up the knob as a GP Input and assigned a Cal table. This is so you see "knop position 0-11" on your Slip table axis rather than just 0-5Volts so it is a little easier to know where you are working when making changes. Slip table two is now the main table that will do most of the work. Slip table 1 is just used to get the highspeed/low gear limiter you had configured. I dont really know how much adjustment you wanted so I took a stab. In this example, position 0 will give you the same slip as your old dry table. Position 7 or 8 is most similar to your original wet table and turning the knob to 11 gives the most aggressive TC. TC Knob setup.pclr
  22. jetape

    Recovery from quick throttle blips, bogs down

    Interesting, what does ROC do? I tried more gradual decline where the -250 column is 10, it seems to have helped from a quick test I did.
  23. Adamw

    Setup PC Link on Windows Tablet

    The ECU is supplied with a USB tuning cable. If you use a windows tablet then you can use PC Link or Realdash for the display, if you go for Android then Realdash would be the easiest. Some reading for you here: http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8164-windows-tablet-power-from-usb http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/6447-link-g4-tablet-view http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8637-introducing-realdash-a-dashboard-app-for-android-windows/
  24. lostsoul

    Traction Control Switch

    Attached.... TPS-Tune.pclr
  25. Adamw

    Traction Control Switch

    What is on your slip tables now - are they 2D or 3D? Maybe attach your map if you dont mind
  26. lostsoul

    Traction Control Switch

    Thanks Adam, that is all pretty much chinese to me. Could you post screenshots of how this would be set up in PC Link ? Please.
  27. Adamw

    G4+ Fault Codes In Impreza 99

    All WRX's (well at least up to 2007), have both a MAP and a MAF from the factory. As far as I know all of the GC chassis had it seperate from the engine with a hose connecting it to the manifold just like my photo shows. The "new gen" cars GD/GG chassis changed to a sensor that bolted direct to the manifold. That means there is a sensor connected to the ecu so we know it has one, but the problem is it's pressure reading is wrong and doesnt change when you start the engine. So either the sensor is faulty or the hose is off. Nothing, you dont even have a lambda connected by the looks.
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