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  2. Adamw

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Without this the ECU will turn off as soon as ign is turned off so the stepper cant re-zero itself. This means next start up it will not be in the position the ECU believes it to be and will mess up idle control a lot. So this is the first thing that needs to be fixed before we can really diagnose if there is an idle problem. As per Ducies advice, 5 seconds will do. Do us another log after changing this. Edit, added later: In both places it nearly stalled the fan had just turned on as it came down to idle, Your fan step is set to 70 (crazy number?) but the idle valve only changed by about 3 steps - did you change this setting after the fact? Your fan is turning on/off a lot so I would set the hysteresis higher so that doesnt happen as often. You will want to set the fan step properly. It looks like overrun fuel cut is also playing a part. I would either turn it off temporarily to see how much it is interfering or bump up the highlighted cells to about 1800RPM.
  3. what would we do without you adam haha
  4. OK thanks, it would be the cam grinder that didn't base time the cams very well.... seen it before with his cams, always trouble to set-up ! So 7 degree's on cam will get me dead in the middle of zone, so maybe if i modify the cam sensor mount I can move it 2-3 degree's and it should be enough !? Looking at trigger scope the best direction to go to get away from crank trigger is to fire the cam sync later ? So roll it around clockwise from current position around 4mm from a quick scribble on a piece of paper, something that can be done in car !
  5. Is this the Link "CANPCB" cable? Is it plugged into CAN 1 or CAN 2? Do you have anything else connected to the bus? Can you attach a copy of the tune.
  6. Hi Team, Hooking up the standard VSS from an FD RX7 straight into a Fury so I can output it via CAN to an MXS Strada, and GP Speed output to a MRS Electric power steering pump for motor speed control. Seeing as this is a standard VR Sensor, im assuming I can sensor ground one side and go the other into one of my spare DIs? Even though its in the wiring diagrams its late and im second guessing myself........... Cheers
  7. Today
  8. In the help file type in Stepper Reset, explains 2 different ways for a reset. 5 sec hold time should be enough i reckon. I would give it a clean first so it give repeatable results. I would also target a slightly richer AFR at idle until you get the idle sorted .95 is always my start point until i get idle stable.
  9. The teeth on the crank are 30deg apart so to center the cam tooth between them you would need to move the cam tooth 15 crank degrees or 7 cam degrees. Sync needs to be on the cam for sequential. You will notice the cam tooth is roughly centered in the FSM pic so something has changed on yours, if it has adjustable cam pulleys that will be plenty to fix it, it doesnt matter which way you move it (you will need to check trigger offset afterwards as ign timing may change depending on which way you go).
  10. That's not easy to do to this motor, only way i can think of right now is to hope there is enough adjustment on cam wheel degree slots and maybe move the cam belt over a tooth......any way to tell how many degree's i need to move cam sync ? Pretty much impossible to degree cams with engine in car.... its drop engine trans and cross member to get it out, hmmm. further.. This engine actually has 2 tone rings on crank pulley, one is 12 tooth and the other is 1 2 3, an called "sync" in FSM, does the cam sync have to come from the cam wheel ie half crank speed ? any way to use a single tooth on crank 2nd tone ring to sync ? Would have to be a better signal with not cam/belt issues..
  11. Rob W

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    When i put the ID,s in it I put the figures in the SPAT and it wasn't real happy so i cleared it back out. But i can try those again now. Im not sure about the hold time issue but now you mention it I'll look into thst further. Can you give me an insight into how that should be?
  12. Need some help trying to diagnose why I can not find my Can Lambda device. ECU is a NGTR+. Can Bus made from 10’ of M27500 shielded twisted pair cable w/ 120R 1/4 Watt resistor soldered at the end. Terminations protected w/ RW-200 and ATUM. Branch for lambda is 6” long, WHT to WHT and WHT/BLU to GRN. Bus leads soldered to Link Can cable, wires terminated to same color combo. Power to module is through a relay as described in the instructions. Ive checked voltage at the module and at O2 plug and am seeing near 12V. When I follow instructions for setting up the module and discovering the device the ECU says it cannot find any CAN devices. Help and insight appreciated.
  13. It would be pretty unusual to have a single wire sensor connected to the ecu. Single wire sensors are usually only for a temp gauge. Are you sure there is not another sensor somewhere?
  14. Awesome thanks for that! I have cleaned up the contacts but no luck, I will trace the wire back and make sure it's all good next. Is there a possibility i have stuffed the temp sender?, it is a single wire type. Cheers.
  15. Ok, the problem with your trigger is shown below. Notice the cam tooth crosses zero volts at exactly the same time as a crank tooth crosses zero (where my yellow cursor is). This is very bad, it means as the cam tooth bounces either side of that crank edge due to cam belt slap etc. your ignition timing will suddenly shift by 30 degrees. So you could potentially have 30 deg more advance at random times which probably wont end well. What you have to do is move either the crank wheel or cam tooth so that the cam edge crosses zero roughly halfway between two crank edges. Thanks to my photoshop mastery, pic below is roughly how you want it to look; notice the cam falling edge zero crossing (purple dotted line) is roughly centered between two crank falling edge zero crossings (yellow dotted lines). And the official help file explanation which shows the aim is to be anywhere within that 50% zone between teeth:
  16. Few things i've noticed While your dead time are correct you don't have any figures in the SPAT. You have got the idle stepper reset on key off but don't have a ecu hold time.
  17. Thank you. I'll try this with the pull up resistor. The other method didn't seem to work.
  18. Thank you. I'm located in India, but should be able to find some time when the car isn't going to be used and ship the ECU over.
  19. Not with a Thunder, it can to Hi and Low.
  20. These are low resistor injectors do u still need a resistor box?
  21. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NwGuFPcbtIPSnDFMVbRRbMY0Hgye5Q2N Should trigger scope, tune file and a log file with some data...
  22. Good point....I gave it a start and it settled at 3.7%..
  23. Correct, it will never go to zero. It will sit at the sum of the main target table + idle base position + start up step. 7-15% would be pretty normal pre start position.
  24. Yesterday
  25. Probably the throttle opening requested by the ECU to start the car as I believe that your ignition is on and engine ready to be cranked
  26. So I just replaced the throttle unit for good measure, took it out and can hear something rattle inside so safe to say it was poked. Was going through the throttle setup, throttle will go to 100% but instead of resting at 0% it sits at 7.3%...what do I do to get this to 0?..I'm a bit lost. I dont want to run the car until throttle is at 0% I guess ?
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