jannerboy

Hi, Could I ask you guys to look into this one for me please? I appreciate it's been raised before here, just hoping you can update RealDash with the info? Cheers, John

The part numbers for the VAG R32 injectors are 0280 157 012 & 022 906 031J The part numbers for the VAG 2.8 4Mo are 0280 155 985 & 022 906 031F Really appreciate if someone out there has the link ECU data for either/both these injectors. Thanks. John.

You do not remove any resistors. You do not need to use a relay. Remove the instrument cluster and dismantle (3 screws) to get at the PCB board of the tacho. Solder a 1kOhm (blue striped) resistor onto the back of the existing resistor...see the second photo. Re-assemble and locate the wire in the loom at the blue plug connector. Cut this wire and attach a new wire to the Link ECU. Grant Baker then re-assigned an output to the tacho and it works perfectly. HTH, John

PCL file is attached. Hopefully you find the conflict. SeatIbizaCupra1.8t.pclr

Seat Ibiza Cupra with the Audi TT g4+ ECU. We cant get the ALS to work. We have added a switch to activate DI7 as ALS. Added the wire to the ECU with Sensor GND. I've attached some screenshots to get the discussion going. With the switch Active, all that happens is we rev up to 3000rpm+ with TPS 40%+ but the engine just continues to rev up to 6000 rpm or more before we quickly switch off the ALS! No ALS occurs. We have logged parameters and see that it "looks" like the throttle is following the target, and other parameters look correct! But clearly we are missing something! So something is not quite right...:-( Regards, John

moved the wire to pin 40 DI6 input and now works...just for the records...:-)

And as a stock MR2Link unit it shouldn't have anything connected to this. Thanks.

Guys. Which pin is the expansion connector?

Hi Simon. You mentioned three pins to potentially check and remove. Pin 28, 112, and the other one was ??? Cheers.

Hi, We have added a switch to DI9 Pin 112 and Sensor Earth Pin 27. However when switching we find in one position the system is active but in the other it flashes (switches) itself on/off continuously. Any ideas? We have set this up on other cars before so something is amiss. Pictures attached of our setup. Regards, John

Can anyone recommend a dual USB Windows tablet to achieve this? Preferably with at least one full size USB slot. i can't find any suppliers of the Winbook TW series of tablets (in the UK).

Hi Adam, Thanks for putting us straight on that one. Is it wise to use knock control in this instance or should we change to a COP system? Can we change to a COP system with the plugin ECU on the ST205 in order to benefit from individual cylinder knock control?

Adam, Running latest firmware. Freq and Gain all set up by Grant. See attached for typical results. We only see knock on one cylinder... Should the stock (original) knock sensor work with the G4+ MR2Link V2-3 plugin? If so, ours doesn't. We then plugged in a wideband 2 pin sensor, wired up to the ECU (disconnecting the stock knock sensor) and we get the same result. Then wired a loom in separately to the ECU, same result. Then tried a different wideband sensor and yes you guessed it, same result... John

Guys, thanks and I've got the idle set up Open Loop, Idle Control On, and its now stable and does not now stall. The 1.8T needs 20 degs at idle (as per your base supplied map...). The key area was the E-Throttle 1 Target table. The e-throttle is very sensitve to changes around the idle areas within this table. At the moment the changes can only be made with 0.5 as a minimum step. Would it be possible to allow a step change at a resolution of 0.1 step? Column "0" of the Idle Ignition Table is set at 20, with Column "100" to "500" set at 25, and Columns "-100" to "-500" set at 15. I found that adjustments made in this table seemed to make no difference whatsoever...? I'll endeavour to turn on Closed-Loop and try that out soon, but i just wanted to run the above by you so you can advise if I have missed anything or anything else to check?

Guys, This issue still exists, and now its time to sort it out once and for all! Simon, can I ask for a more detailed "idle start procedure" for our car with ethrottle or clarify some points for me please? I can turn off the idle ignition control, and will wait until the engine is warm and try to adjust the main ignition table 1 to get a stable idle...some AFR adjustments may also be required i guess. But you mention "turn on the open loop idle control"...but I can't turn it off! there are only four options...none of which are "off". Did you mean "turn on the idle ignition control" to then release access to the idle ignition table? Then adjust the figures within during warm up...then adjust for idle ups AC fans etc...then go closed loop... Regards, John