Ben Stairs

So this is starting to look like an old post, but it's still current. I just got my car back on the road. It's a long winter here in northern BC Canada. If you can help me out remotely, that would be fantastic, just let me know how to do it and let's go. Sometimes I work retarded hours but things have slowed right down for now, so if we can set up for a weekend or evening I'm game.

still working out some tunning issues (please see my other post) but this one shines where it counts. I will be doing interior and body work to it this winter hopeÂ

hey everyone  im new to this obviously and have a few questions about how to tune and how to become fluent with the link program  First off though should describe my ride  89 Nissan 240sx with sr conversion fresh built with je pistons eagle h-beam rods cosworth head gasket bc valves springs guids and titanium retainers  hks rocker arm stoppers tomei 260 procams Garrett gtx2867r with 63 ar housing atom ecu injector dynamics 800cc injectors and a few other goodies mostly for dressup. So here is my issue I took my car to be tuned on the dyno about 12hrs away from where l ive and they ran into issues so they say  i asked if the tune was safe the way it is and they said yes but do not see how they can say that since the ex manifold was cracked and now that put the stock unit back on I can hear detonation  i have been tunning out the det with timming whenever hear it and catch witch cells its comming from but I know that if I can hear it it is way out of control and dangerous. I have much experience tunning except old carbs and such so one thing I am wondering about is how much should I retard the timming past what can hear to be on the safe side? Point #2 the idle is very high (1500rpm) when warm or go over a certain rpm. not sure how to correct this brought the idle target down to 600 from 1100 at most temp ranges and made no difference. how can I correct this? my afr seems to be quit good on the wide band but when hit the boost limit I notice a puff of black out the back which am assuming unburnt fuel due to ignition being cut. now here is the strange thing about that have my boost controller set to off (or bypassed) its supposed to be a 7lb crack but I have been making almost 20 lbs of boost then with my controller on and set for a wg crack pressure of 11lbs and dutycycle set to 21 percent it will make 11lbs of boost and it seems to be overly sensitive to temperature notable in det and boost. when on the dyno they said the boost was creeping up with just the waste gate but spiking with the controller initially then it kept steady after that. aem true boost if wondering about boost control any advice will be helpful however I have been on forums befor and if you are not confident that what you are saying is the correct way of doing things I don't need to hear it because will listen and try the suggestions trusting you know what you are talking about wh the possibility of costing me my brand new $15 000 investment with no cost to you Â