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Hi, im new to this forum. Sorry if my post here have been discussed before but i couldn't found any that could guide me through. My problem is. Im running g4+ plug in for my 4g63 engine and i've installed a haltech racepak iq3 non logger dash through the CANBUS port within the ecu. If there is any setting for the can setup in the pc link or does anybody here had the same problem solved and get the racepak up and running? the racepak from haltec is running firmware 26 and also have haltech v2 can protocol in it. Thanks in advance! hope you guys could help me out.

Hi all, I'm having trouble connecting my computer to a G4+ Fury. I was able to connect to it a few months ago on a different laptop, but can't get anywhere with it now. Whenever I try to connect it just gives me the message "Unable to connect to ECU but USB connection is present. Please cycle the power to the ECU." The ecu is running the engine perfectly, just can't connect to it at all. I have it connected correctly (to COM port with orange O ring), the com port numbers are matching as well as the baud rate. I've tried different com ports both below and above 8 but still nothing. There are no other CAN auxiliaries plugged in either as I heard this can cause these kind of issues. I can update the firmware but it is up to date (Version 5.6.8) and I've reinstalled the firmware just to be sure but there's no change. My current computer will connect to other link ECU's just fine, though they are G4X ecus with the new G5 software. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hi hoping someone might be able to give some tips to help resolve my issue, getting super high readings of oil and fuel pressure but am 99% sure they are actually at normal pressures. link g4+ e36 m50 pnp m50b25 motor (turboed) 145psi linear sensors (same ones for oil and fuel) Sensors wired into link expansion loom both set to cal4 My oil and fuel pressure sensors are reading almost double the m50s standard pressures. I installed the oil pressure sensor first and when I did it read a standard pressure. A week later I installed the fuel pressure sensor, at first I have the signal wired to the wrong pin, realised when I opened pclink and then rewired it to the anvolt. Ever since then both the fuel and oil pressures started reading super high. Very unsure whats causing this especially since the oil pressure previously read correctly and the engine still seems to run exactly the same as it did. Hoping theres something dumb Im missing that someone smarter than me can point out. Thanks in advance!

Hi all I have my 3uzfe running off the 1uz vvti basemap on my link G4+ xtreme but its running pretty rich at the moment. I'm going to be converting to MAP and wideband before i take it to my tuner, but for now i am just running MAF and narrowband. Is there anything i can do to lean it out abit? I just want to be able to run in up to temperature and make sure everythings okay before i take it to the dyno as its quite a long drive to get there and don't want to have any problems, but its super smokey and rich. I've uploaded my basemap with a log of it running for around 30 seconds. I will be doing MAP conversion and Link can lambda in the next month. Many thanks Rich running map.llg Rich running map 3uz.pclr

Hi There, I have the Link MXS Strada dash in my s15 and I am having some dramas with the auto dim feature on the dash. it seems as though the sensor is not picking up much ambient light in the car as it has dark tint and small windows along with the screen shade to limit glare. I have already sett the threshold to 20% however it is dimming the screen when it is much too bright still. Is there a way to facotr the luminoscity sensor's scale? Or will this need to be a firmware thing from AIM? To be honest it used to be fantastic when i first installed it but since the last few firmware updates it has not been as good with the auto dim function. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great Cheers, Trento

Hi, I have a problem with rough idle on my rb25. I use E85 pumpgas. I drive without engine idler it was broken when I got the engine so I run without it. Recently cleaned my injectors, fuel filter and new spark plug. The wiring harness is also new, can't find any problems with a vacuum leak either. I drive kelford cams 262/262 without vvt. The problem is the idle on around 850rpm and 2500 even throttle. Do someone have any idea? I will post a logfile later. Greetings Andreas

Good day I have the problem that I get no signal from the original knock sensor on my ECU. has anyone here ever had the same problem? Car: Subaru Impreza WRX MY 2000 Engine: EJ20 ECU: G4+ Kind regards Ronny Beeler

I recently got my 2003 nissan 350z with a link g4+ plug in tuned, the car only has a exhaust and intake. I've been driving the car for almost 1 month with no issues. But the other day when trying to leave work, when I started my car RPMs were stuck at 2000 and I had no Throttle I could put it to the floor and nothing. I got it to start normally after a couple more tries and got it home no issue I even stopped and shut it off before making it home. But when I got home I had the same issue RPMs at 2k and no pedal. I got my computer and scanned it and had codes 75 (E Throttle 1 TP target error), 73 (aux 9/10 supply error), 71 (Aux supply error e Throttle) 101 (An volt 12 above error High value) 70 ( e Throttle min %DC limit) and the engine speed has been limited to 1800 due to an e throttle fault. I'm just confused because I had no blown fuses, and I could see my throttle position sensor was working as it was moving through the RPM range on my tune, I also replaced the Throttle body with a brand new one so I'm just very confused why I'm still having issues with my Pedal and e Throttle. Please help, any help is appreciated sorry I'm still very new to the standalone ecu world lol Thanks any help is greatly appreciated

Hello, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve my issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down. Eventually, it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or it will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda wideband

Hey I have a v3 wrx with a g4+ pnp I’m installing a fresh air antilag system would I be better off using a Mac solenoid to control it or would I be better off using the electronic fresh air valve either way what pinouts should I use or will I need to go into the expansion loom ,also I would like to make use of the turbo speed sensor cheers!

Hi Im just trying to setup my g4+ e36 pnp with a m50nv engine where the ecu connector has been repinned. My main issue is that there is no signal from trigger two at all, the wires have been checked for continuity and triple checked correct pins. Ive done a trigger scope and saw nothing on trigger 2. I was able to get an rpm reading by turning the trigger 2 sync to none. Although it still wouldnt start for more unknown reasons. Mainly first trying to figure out why the ecu wont read my cam sensor? I am yet to try a new sensor although I wouldve thought even if the sensor wasnt working correctly the ecu should still recognise that its there but just is faulty? Im a newb in this area and thought the pnp would be a bit sinpler so tips or ideas to try are appreciated!

Hey guys! Trying to run my g4 thunder ecu on my Subaru liberty GT Gen 4 As far as I’m aware, the only CAN communication required is engine load, Si-Drive and coolant temperature to the cluster , along with wheel speed from the BCM. Only issue I’m having is the CAN ID to obtain the data. Only data the ecu needs to send to the cluster is temperature and engine load. Rest will be read. would anyone know the IDs are or how I’d be able to obtain them using the ecu? (Canbus system is very similar if not the same with the 08-14 wrx, if that helps!) Thanks!

Have an s15 G4+ with an odd onboard Map sensor issue. I have used the 4 bar calibration and it’s reading 57kpa (0.66v) at atmospheric pressure, I believe the onboard map sensor has failed? I am also having trouble with the link can lambda, I have configured the can side of it, it’s showing as detected and no faults but I cannot get a value out of it, (also has a link can gauge on a can splitter that’s working fine) any help would be appreciated thanks.

Hey guys, ive been looking over my pin assignments trying to get everything setup in my base map for when i get my car running. Its a 1g DSM using the Vr4Link. I recently sent the ECU in to be modified to work with Ethrottle as well as add a few other inputs. With the OEM Harness i had a fuel pressure sensor wired into the factory EGR input, which doesn't exist on the Link Ecu so i had to find another Input for it. I also was using ECMLinks Plug n Play Speed Density harness (plugs into the MAF Harness) for IAT, MAP and Flex fuel. My issue is that i think i might be tapping out my Aux Outputs. I seem to have just enough inputs, but i might be missing one output for the Ethrottle control relay. I was looking to possibly repurpose my Purge Solenoid Output (Inj 5) but the Help Section says that its unable to control Aux Outputs. I don't see any additional Ign outputs, or any additional outputs to be used that matter. I was also hoping to find one to control radiator fans as well. What are my options for getting this to work? My Current pin assignments are attached as well as a few listed here: Ethanol Sensor replacing MAF Sensor input (AN Volt 2) Throttle Pos. + --> AN Volt 7 (Green) Throttle Pos. - --> AN Volt 8 (Grey) Fuel Pressure Sensor --> AN Volt 5 (Expansion) MAP Sensor --> AN Volt 6 (Expansion) Throttle Body Pos. + --> AN Volt 9 (White) Throttle Body Pos. - --> AN Volt 10 (Brown) Isolating Relay Output (EThrottle) --> ?? Fan Control Output --> ?? Still trying to Familiarize myself with the ECU layout, so i definitely could have missed/ Not understanding stuff. Thanks! test file.pclr

Hello! I have roblem whith OBD on G4X. I need to coonect DAMD steering weel to Link ECU. It is connect whithout any problems on G4+but on G4X with same setings it dosent work at all. After connecting control lamp to CAN wire I see that on User Defined I dosent have anithing but on others protocols I have some signals (on G4+ I have signal on User Defined). Video below.

Evening guys, I have a G4+ plug in for my V1-2 WRX and am running a Haltech IC7 dash. The dash is wired via CAN from the Link G4+ and EVERYTHING works except for % ethanol. It shows the correct % ethanol on the G4+, but the IC7 will only show 0%. Currently have RPM, speed, oil pres, oil temp, coolant temp, IAT, lambda, etc. etc.... See attached configuration for CAN module 1 (the dash). I am running CAN lambda on CAN module 2. Any help would be appreciated!! Cheers, Mitch

Hello, Here is the tune file for my 2003 MINI Cooper S that I race in GTS with NASA (National Auto Sport Association) and BMW Club Racing. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JVhjpeVhWHSubJpOya5x56rsSomkDuUw/view?usp=sharing It is a stock MINI engine with 50 thousands over 9.3 to 1 compression pistons. Stock cam advanced 10 degrees on a Endyn big valve head. The SC is running the stock pulley producing 10 psi of boost max. It is a power to weight class so we attempt to get a flat HP curve, thus the unusually timing curve. Questions / Suggestions welcome. I am the tuner and still learning. Alan

Hi Folks, I'm having some issue with my CAN Lambda. Bought it new a while back and I finally decided to fit it.. So I've got it wired up as per the instructions but I'm getting a error 26 - which according to instructions relates to - supply voltage dropped below 10.8V while operating. Solution - Check Wiring, Check Battery, May occur during cranking" Ive check the wiring, relay is wired correctly, power is coming from the battery, good ground, accessory going to the CAN module. All seems fine. Battery is fine, showing 12V+ Which leaves "may occur during cranking".. I thought this might be the issue (might still be) so I put a switch on the accessory power going to the relay just to turn it on once the car has started. thinking this would take the cracking part out of the occasion just incase it was dropping below the 10v. I'm kinda out of ideas on what else to check, if anyone has any ideas?? Also looking at the lambda status , I might have other issues but they only come up when I start the car. map and log attached along with some snapshots can lambda test.llg afterlambdainstall.pclr

Hi! I just installed the EvoLink in my Evo 3. Car is basically stock, fuel pump is a bit bigger (Walbro 255). I took it to dyno for tuning, and tuner said that the ignition values in the table are going crazy high and make no sense. We made sure that the ignition timing is fine. We were able to take the values higher and higher and more kW just kept coming, but then we just ran out of courage to put higher values in there and left it in 274 horsepowers, which is basically stock. Are these normal ignition values in Link? Is this somekind of feature in Link or did we miss a table or something? Any information would be highly appreciated, I also have the whole map if needed.

Hi guys, so I've just got my hands on a Haltech IC-7 dash. Im running a G4+ pnp for Evo 8. The dash is running current firmware and I have selected Link G4 from the configuration list on the haltech software. I am using the connection cable that is offered by haltech(came with the kit) plugged in to CAN1/RS232, 12v is coming from a switched acc/ign and ground is going to a chassis ground. On PC Link i am using the following settings (see attached image) but I have no data streaming to the dash at all. If I change the configuration to OBD2 on the haltech software i am able to get a battery voltage reading and nothing else indicating to me the dash is working and wired up correctly? Can some one point out what i am doing wrong? Thank you!

Hello, Our team doing some upgrades this winter. We have G4+ Thunder and PMU16 from Ecumaster. I would like to run water pump with pwm settings. I know that G4+ CAN can't transmit the pwm value, so I'm looking for alternative. Water pump: CWA200 PWM settings: Idea: 1. PMU16 feeds pump +12V when ignition is on. 2. I wire this to G4+ PWM signal Aux5 pin directly (high side) 3. I wire this pin to G4+ signal ground. (Or should I wire it to chassis ground?) 4. GND is wired to chassis ground. Working order: I turn the ignition and power goes directly from pmu to water pump. When RPM gets over 200 I feed 3ms of pw to wake up the pump from ecu. When car idles i send different signal to run the pump from ecu... Can someone confirm that my theory should work? Or I'm just wasting You time guys.. Huge thanks

Link PNP in stock harness. Series 1 RB25 5 speed Issue is that at around 3200rpm the TPS % drops to 0% causing a cut of throttle until more or less throttle is applied. Occurs intermittently but always in 1st gear, taking off from a stop. TPS analog values show 0.47 closed and 3.70 open, I have recalibrate the tps multiple times but issue persists. I have checked and the tps rises and lowers with throttle smoothly in voltage and position. I have attached the .pcl and log. Issue can be seen at 21:17 in the log. tps logs.pclr tps logs.llg

just bought a link ecu g4+ and was going through start up guide. MY build is 2jzge- turbo Supra JDM 1993 , map sensor calibrated, tps not calibrated (wiring issues). when i crank the engine there is no spark from main coil going to distributor cap. Originally running a piggyback system with the Aristo 2JZGTE ecu which was running fine, unplugged earlier today, current ignition module is rewired to work with distributor because the 2jzGTE uses COP instead of distributor (old setup). In the ignition settings neither direct spark or distributor have any spark. also unsure about what trigger setup to use, when cranking trigger signal status 1 is on/active Was previously running fine before installing new ecu

Hi All. Is there anyone that has a base fuel and ignition maps for a VH45, just need something to fill in the tables before i put it on the dyno and get it tuned (need maps to get the car idling nicely) If it helps, here is the setup. Cheers

Hi all, I've purchased my ECU and 2x XS looms to wire in the following (sparky will be doing the wiring, i'm just making sure i give him all the materials to to the job) 6x LS1 coils boost Solenoid Fuel pressure sensor After doing as much research as i can, i seem to think i have run out of aux outputs and can only choose either boost solenoid or fuel pressure. Have i missed something? Also, what is the below connector (highlighted yellow)? Listed under 'additional sensors'. Thanks in advance, Adam (from Melbourne)