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Hello Link Community, I recently purchased a G4X WRX11 ECU for my 2008 STI Hatch. I am beginning the arduous process of installing and tuning on an extensively modified vehicle. Sufficient to say, I am nowhere near a tuner or a dyno, therefore I have to handle this process myself. I noticed that basemaps are supplied with this unit but I dont see a V11 WRX map for the STI. The supplied maps seem to be just for the 2.0L WRX. Is the expectation I use this as a starting point or is there indeed a starting map for the 2.5L WRX STI ?

I have 2012 JDM Subar WRX STI Spec.C (Ver 11 I guess...) Engine : EJ207 quad AVCS I have setup all the VVT stuffs. Including Camshaft position sensor's offset using the cam angle test. I took a log and it describes that, intake cams are correctly at the target position. But Exaust cam pos is hunching(going up and down around the target cam position) I have both tried cam control mode as SUBARU Quad AVCS and SUBARU AVCS EJ20. Both of them had the same result. I have my Link Fury as Piggybacked to my OEM ECU. But I have disconnected all the cam position sensors, cam solenoids etc.. from the OEM ECU. Does anyone have any guesses? Log 2018-04-19 1;31;19 am.zip G4+Fury-initial51.pclr

Hello all, Looking for some advice here on my start up and idle. This is for a 2006 Subaru STI with a WRX104. Looking at the picture below, I'm trying to, if possible, stop the car from rev so high on initial start up, first circle. Then after a few seconds the car dips to low RPM and recovers. I have tried many combinations of settings but I must be missing something. Log file of start up attached as well as my current map. FYI I am breaking in the motor so the map is not final in anyway and I do not see boost or +4k RPM for now. PC Datalog - 2022-04-4 7;11;54 pm.llgx 2006-Subaru-STiWRX104-working v2.4-e85.pclx

Hello Thank you for your attention. I need help with my Subaru WRX STI 2011 JDM EJ207. I have implemented my Link G4+ fury with my car. But my engine does not increase rpm more than 5500rpm. Under 5000 rpm works fine. I've tried changing my ignition timing from 45 BTDC to 0 BTDC but it does not have any effects. I've also double checked my dwell table, Ignition delay, Ignition charge time as same as shown in help in PCLink that it's same as the EJ20 quad AVCS configuration. Do you have any guesses? Thank you very much.

Hello everyone, I am having some troubles with getting my v9 EJ207 to run on the modeled fuel strategy. I can get it to run on the stock ECU and I have run the car on the traditional mode as well. The car is basically stock aside from Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors and a walbro 255lph pump. I am using the "spec-c" intake mounted IAT, factory ECT and factory V9 MAP sensor. I have a PLX SM-AFR wideband (not yet hooked up to the ECU, I have lambda corrections turned off so I assumed this will not affect the ability to run the car). As far as the map goes I have left everything as it comes from LINK aside from adjusting the PS voltage code, Tacho fix, switched to modeled in the "Fuel Main" tab added injector size info, latency and injector short PW adder tables. Number of cylinders is correct, engine size is correct, VE table is the LINK factory table, I'm running 91oct fuel, so I left the fuel density as from the factory as well. Fuel pressure is 43.5 as well. I can only get the car to run when I size the injectors at ~400cc, as I raise the injector size, the lamda leans out. Alternately I can lower the fuel pressure to ~20psi and it will let me raise the injector size closer to the true size, but my factory fuel pressure regulator is not a 20psi regulator. Does anyone have any pointers? I have included the map I am working on. I'm much more familiar with megasquirt and I'm sure I am overlooking something easy, any help is appreciated! 1000cc Modeled WRX V9 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr

Hi there all, i am facing a problem that i can not solve and i would like to know if anyone has face anything like this before. I am having the oem ecu and i am running with it for example at 1.5 bar of boost 20o advance and with the link now i am having 10o less.... and it is still doing some noise on the knock control. i have checked everything from the trigger to all the configurations... can anyone explain that please?? Thank you in advance Ted p.s. this is my map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u2cx1ZBQ66FVdE6DoaYb8im1vIODOZun/view?usp=sharing even that i am running less advance the car goes same or even better when i am running the oem ecu

Hi there all, we would like to change the existing dbw to dbc. what do we need and how difficult is to run ? i know the parts that i want , the only thing is what should i do internally to the ecu. Thank you in advance Ted

Hi there, i am looking for the new Fic 1000cc injectors (Subaru sti) the short pulse width ad table. does anyone knows something about it or where can i find it? thank you in advance Ted p.s i know that ID has for all the injectors and ecus different tables. FIC doesn't have any on the web.

Hello team, I was configuring my g4+ pnp last week. Tried to connect AEM x-series wideband to ecu(through CAN). Everything is good at first, than suddenly I lost my tacho signal. It was strange because ecu still have normal rpm signal. Only instrument cluster and hks evc(can read TPS) lost it. Here is my troubleshooting attempt: 1.Restart engine 2.Restart aux function 4 (tacho) 3.Adjust tacho duty cycle (25% and 75%) 4.Reload base map 5.Downgrade firmware But I have no luck to solve this problem. If I change back to OEM ecu than cluster and evc will back online, so it shouldn’t be a wiring problem. Do I have something else worth to try? Any help will be appreciated. Car:2003 Subaru Impreza WRX STI EDM ECU:G4+ WRXLINK 7-9 PNP

Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice about drive the car to the shop to get a tune. First I need to drive 7km only using the downpipe to get my exhaust finished. Later more 35km to the shop to get a tune. Not sure if it will be safe and don't wanna take the risk. The mods that I have is: - Catless downpipe - IAG AOS Competition - Mac 3 ports boost solenoid - Aftermarket air filter - 3bar link map Did a log and drove back and forward inside the garage and sometimes the AFR looks hi. Could it bring me problems if I drive slow and not boosting? Also after touch the throttle the idle status shows (Hold - RPM Lockout) and the RPM stay around 1500. I tried to solve it but I'm not too confident to do it myself and think will be not a problem drive like that right? Subaru TypeRA V6.pclr Log 2018-10-22 5;23;44 pm.llg

Hey guys, just installed a G4+ on a stock Subaru 2000 Sti Type RA and I'm having some problem. I'm not a professional but know the basic things and wanna learn deeply about that. 1 - My Engine Fan 2 is always on. When I turn the key to on position it's turned on too. 2 - When I start the engine (hot) the idle stay at 900 rpm but if I depress the accelerator it's going to 1500 and stay around this value. 3 - Looks like my wideband O2 sensor is not working properly. I can not see the values changing and the Log shows it always at 0.686. I guess something is wrong with that. I'm using an AEM and used this post as reference to configure: My AEM ground is on the body, not sure if is that the problem. Would be better plug it on the GND on XL Loom? Log 2018-01-6 2_03_54 am.llg Subaru TypeRA V6.pclr

Hi, I recently purchased a Link 3-4 for my car however my car carries 4 plugs instead of 3.... now I called u guys and someone said that it can be repinned so rather than shipping all the way back to Austraila from Jamaica Im gonna go through with it.... one thing I want to know though... I see ignition1 and ignition2 twice on the pinout... my ECU is supports the 4 coil system which is a sequential fire and has 4 ignition outputs while the version 3 has 2 but this ECU has 4 ignition outputs that's being used and also two more auxiliary outputs for a total of 6... so could I connect my two coils to that pin and run the sequential fire? Also what are the unused pins for in the ECU... would love if you guys could send me a full pinout of this ECU so I can get it in the car properly.... please and thanks!

Hi, I have been researching closed loop boost control and came across a previous post that has deterred me, please could you comment on the following?... Andre Simon's post: I've mentioned this in a previous thread here, however I'll just caution you that the current closed loop boost control in the G4+ is problematic. Particularly if you're fussy, you'll find it impossible to get 100% accurate and repeatable boost. Link are aware of this and there is an update in the pipeline. Until then personally I'd use the passive closed loop setup discussed in the course.

Hello, I have a Vipec Subaru V1-2 Ecu that I would like to run a set of newer dual avcs heads with, both intake and exhaust cams. Here is my current wiring, and my proposed wiring...it looks like it should work to me, but I wanted to get verification on this idea though. Currently I am running an Sti ej20g setup but I will convert the intake to a V7-8 style sti intake with drive by cable, and v10 sti style dual avcs heads, I've noted how some of the Aux and Digital inputs will be freed up. Thanks for the help! Current Wiring New AVCS Wiring Aux 1 – ISC Sol. Slave VVT Cam Solenoid (ISC Slave Removed as per Sti V7-8 manifold Aux 2 – ISC Solenoid VVT Cam Solenoid Aux 3 – Tacho VVT Cam Solenoid Aux 4 – Boost Solenoid VVT Cam Solenoid (Boost controlled via MBC) Aux 5 – Fuel Pump Fuel Pump Aux 6 – Aircon Clutch Tacho Aux 7 – Purge ISC Solenoid (Purge Controlled via Hobbs Switch) Aux 8 – CE Light CE Light Injector Drive 1 – Injector 1 Injector Drive 2 – Injector 2 Injector Drive 3 – Injector 3 Injector Drive 4 – Injector 4 Injector Drive 5 – Engine Fan (HS) Injector Drive 6 – Engine Fan DI 1 – Start Position DI 2 – Air Con Request VVT Cam Position DI 3 – Power Steer VVT Cam Position DI 4 – Speed VVT Cam Position DI 5 – OFF Power Steer DI 6 – OFF Speed AN Temp 1- Engine coolant Temp AN Temp 2 – Inlet Air Temp AN Temp 3 – OFF AN Volt 1 – MAP Sensor AN Volt 2 – OFF An Volt 3 – TPS (Main) AN Volt 4- Voltage 0-5v AN Volt 5 – Wideband AN Volt 6 – OFF

Hi! I have a 2001 subaru wrx sti (jdm). When I plugged the Ecu in the first time, the tacho did the blip when power was turned on. At the time I couldn´t connect to the ECU since the pins on the engine management were on wrong position (sti/wrx). After I changed the position I got connection to my pc but since then the tacho hasn´t worked and it doesn´t blip. It says on the manual that tacho should be on aux 4 channel and i have tried to test that channel, but im not sure if i have understood correctly how test pwm or test on works.

i recently had my fuel pump go out, and when i traced the Black yellow stripe wire back from pump harness, i found that the connectors have melted. the immediate Black connector is the worst, but after replacing that wire i still had No power, so i traced the wire back further to where the rear harness connects and that connector was melted where the Black w/ yellow stripe wire was as well. i want to find the cause of this so that i can Re-Wire the Pump, but i do not know where the Fuel Pump wire starts at the ECU. The manual says AUX 1 which is B134-1 but there isnt a wire in that position. what color is the Fuel Pump wire starting at the ECU, and what position is it if not at B134-1?

Hello, Love the ECU. My car runs better than ever before. Now that I have it tuned relatively close to the AFRs that I want, I would like to turn on the closed loop lambda mode. I have everything set up, but no mater what I do, the CL Lambda Fuel Correction is always 0%, and the AFRs never adjust. Could somebody please point me in the correct direction? I have ensured that all of my lockout values are not causing the CL to run. I have my innovate MTX-L wideband wired up to an external analog input and configured as Lambda 1. Lambda displays properly on inside PCLink, and agrees with my physical AFR gauge. Not sure what else I can check. Any help would be awesome! Thanks! 08-11-2016 GF8.pclr