Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'subaru'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Link Products
    • G5
    • G4x
    • Razor PDM
    • G4+
  • General Topics
    • Guest
    • WishList
    • Engine Tuning
    • Customers Vehicles
  • Vi-PEC
    • Vi-PEC i Series
    • ViPEC V Series
    • ViPEC Power Sport
  • Historic Products
    • Link G4
    • Link G2 G3
    • Link G1

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Blogs

  • Bryan
  • 카지노 사이트, 카지노 추천«TSG79.COM
  • 2JZ Tuning Tips
  • Arjun haniz
  • Slot Joker Gaming
  • SV388 Live
  • IDNPLAY Judi Poker Online

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Good day I have the problem that I get no signal from the original knock sensor on my ECU. has anyone here ever had the same problem? Car: Subaru Impreza WRX MY 2000 Engine: EJ20 ECU: G4+ Kind regards Ronny Beeler
  2. subiru66

    G4X WRX11

    Hello Link Community, I recently purchased a G4X WRX11 ECU for my 2008 STI Hatch. I am beginning the arduous process of installing and tuning on an extensively modified vehicle. Sufficient to say, I am nowhere near a tuner or a dyno, therefore I have to handle this process myself. I noticed that basemaps are supplied with this unit but I dont see a V11 WRX map for the STI. The supplied maps seem to be just for the 2.0L WRX. Is the expectation I use this as a starting point or is there indeed a starting map for the 2.5L WRX STI ?
  3. Hello All, I have a freshly installed WRX104X in a 2004 USDM STI. The base configuration files in PClink list the STIs by version. I have heard the 2004s called both a Version 8 and a Version 9. Which one should I be using? It seems like it already has some type of base configuration on it, but the manual specifically tells you to load a config from the list so I just want to make sure I start off on the right foot. I appreciate any help.
  4. EJay

    EJ207 V8 AVCS issues

    Hi all, I hope everyone is enjoying their weekend. I'm experiencing some issues getting the AVCS on my motor to function correctly. I've fitted a V8 EJ207 motor into my 1999 WRX that is being powered by a Link G4+ V5-6 WRX ECU. With both solenoids set to 300hz, only the RH side works but will surpass its target greatly, causing the engine to misfire. However, if I tinker with the solenoid frequencies, I can get the LH side to work but same deal, it will surpass its target and the RH side will cease to operate. I've tested each solenoid using the "test pwm" function and both solenoids are audibly clicking. I've carried out a cam angle test on each side and here are the numbers I received: LH cam angle 1 - 4: (378.4, 557.3, 18.3, 199.1) RH cam angle 1-4: (195.8, 375.2, 556.7, 16.5) Attached is my tune file, a log of the fault during operation (at 300hz on each solenoid), 2x logs for each cam angle test and a trigger scope during engine operation above the RPM lockout for the VVT. I do have both solenoids wired to the same 12v switched ignition source, I don't know if this could be the cause but I think it is strange that the solenoids both work with different frequency settings and never at the same time. Thank you and kind regards, EJay Proper Tune 3.1.pclr LH cam test.llg Log during fault.llg RH cam test.llg Trigger Scope 3ishk rpm.llg
  5. I have 2012 JDM Subar WRX STI Spec.C (Ver 11 I guess...) Engine : EJ207 quad AVCS I have setup all the VVT stuffs. Including Camshaft position sensor's offset using the cam angle test. I took a log and it describes that, intake cams are correctly at the target position. But Exaust cam pos is hunching(going up and down around the target cam position) I have both tried cam control mode as SUBARU Quad AVCS and SUBARU AVCS EJ20. Both of them had the same result. I have my Link Fury as Piggybacked to my OEM ECU. But I have disconnected all the cam position sensors, cam solenoids etc.. from the OEM ECU. Does anyone have any guesses? Log 2018-04-19 1;31;19 am.zip G4+Fury-initial51.pclr
  6. Hello all, Looking for some advice here on my start up and idle. This is for a 2006 Subaru STI with a WRX104. Looking at the picture below, I'm trying to, if possible, stop the car from rev so high on initial start up, first circle. Then after a few seconds the car dips to low RPM and recovers. I have tried many combinations of settings but I must be missing something. Log file of start up attached as well as my current map. FYI I am breaking in the motor so the map is not final in anyway and I do not see boost or +4k RPM for now. PC Datalog - 2022-04-4 7;11;54 pm.llgx 2006-Subaru-STiWRX104-working v2.4-e85.pclx
  7. Looking for an ECU where I can use a downshift throttle blip on track. As it is a street car I don't need the function for daily use and if I do I can do it manually. However, on track I would rather have an automated system. So possibility to have it switchable? Stock 6 speed gearbox. This is for a 2001 Impreza V7. Standard wiring loom. Also have a 1997 WRX which is a track only car, with a PPG 5 speed dog gearset. Changing out from an old ECU with a custom wiring loom so have scope to put on whatever I want. This definitely would benefit from an ECU with traction control as well.
  8. Hello Thank you for your attention. I need help with my Subaru WRX STI 2011 JDM EJ207. I have implemented my Link G4+ fury with my car. But my engine does not increase rpm more than 5500rpm. Under 5000 rpm works fine. I've tried changing my ignition timing from 45 BTDC to 0 BTDC but it does not have any effects. I've also double checked my dwell table, Ignition delay, Ignition charge time as same as shown in help in PCLink that it's same as the EJ20 quad AVCS configuration. Do you have any guesses? Thank you very much.
  9. Hi all Just wondering if the V44 PnP on a V6 WRX controls the 'pressure exchange solenoid'? Part number is 14774AA530. The vacuum line from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor routes through this solenoid but when you unplug the solenoid there are no ECU errors/voltage drops and when the solenoid is powered off you can't blow/suck through it in any direction. Just wondering if it is a hindrance to the MAP sensor now that I don't have the factory ECU and possibly the V44 isn't controlling it? Can I just run a vacuum line from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor (which is now an Omni Power 3 Bar) or does this solenoid have something to do with allowing the MAP sensor to read boost but not vacuum, instead making it read atmospheric pressure when the manifold is in vacuum? If it's not operational then it means I can get rid of it plus the unused factory boost control solenoid and big silly bracket they both share, cleans things up a little. If I can indeed run a vacuum line directly from the manifold to the MAP sensor does it need any check valves or filters on the line etc? Cheers Owen
  10. Hey guys, I decided to swap my intake manifold from a sti V6 to a V7 to get ride of the ISC stepper and also I removed the coil pack to use Direct Spark. What would be the best approach to wire the coils? Use the loom Ignition Drive 7 and 8 + the current Ignition Drive 1 and 2. Or Could I use Aux 7 and 8 for the coil since I'm not going to use it anymore? Or better rewire the Engine Fan to use Ignition Drive 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the coils and move Aux 7 and 8 for the fans? Any other tip or advice on that?
  11. Hi there all, i am facing a problem that i can not solve and i would like to know if anyone has face anything like this before. I am having the oem ecu and i am running with it for example at 1.5 bar of boost 20o advance and with the link now i am having 10o less.... and it is still doing some noise on the knock control. i have checked everything from the trigger to all the configurations... can anyone explain that please?? Thank you in advance Ted p.s. this is my map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u2cx1ZBQ66FVdE6DoaYb8im1vIODOZun/view?usp=sharing even that i am running less advance the car goes same or even better when i am running the oem ecu
  12. Ted

    SUBARU STI DBW TO DBC

    Hi there all, we would like to change the existing dbw to dbc. what do we need and how difficult is to run ? i know the parts that i want , the only thing is what should i do internally to the ecu. Thank you in advance Ted
  13. Hi there, i am looking for the new Fic 1000cc injectors (Subaru sti) the short pulse width ad table. does anyone knows something about it or where can i find it? thank you in advance Ted p.s i know that ID has for all the injectors and ecus different tables. FIC doesn't have any on the web.
  14. Hello team, I was configuring my g4+ pnp last week. Tried to connect AEM x-series wideband to ecu(through CAN). Everything is good at first, than suddenly I lost my tacho signal. It was strange because ecu still have normal rpm signal. Only instrument cluster and hks evc(can read TPS) lost it. Here is my troubleshooting attempt: 1.Restart engine 2.Restart aux function 4 (tacho) 3.Adjust tacho duty cycle (25% and 75%) 4.Reload base map 5.Downgrade firmware But I have no luck to solve this problem. If I change back to OEM ecu than cluster and evc will back online, so it shouldn’t be a wiring problem. Do I have something else worth to try? Any help will be appreciated. Car:2003 Subaru Impreza WRX STI EDM ECU:G4+ WRXLINK 7-9 PNP
  15. Subaru v5 STi, WRX6 Plug-in ECU I have disabled the ANv4 (n/b o2) Error low fault detection (set to 0v) but the ECU is still throwing fault code 20; below error low value. Any ideas?
  16. Erratic sensor readings .MOV Just plugged in my WRX6 plug-in ECU for the first time. Upon switching the ignition to "on", engine "off", I immediately heard my IACV cycling. I connected to my ECU via PClink, and noticed erratic readings. I updated the firmware and readings remained. I flashed a tune with the proper calibrations for my MAP sensor, injectors, etc. and performed a TPS calibration. Erratic sensor readings remained and now included an erratic TPS signal. Another issue I'm running into is a repeated request to unlock the ECU. Any ideas? Attached is a video screenshot. Please excuse my post edits haha. Haven't figured out how to remove dupilcate videos
  17. I have a v5 STi with OEM IAT. I bought a GM IAT and installed it just before the throttle body. Should I use the expansion connector or should I snip the OEM IAT and wire it to the GM IAT?
  18. Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice about drive the car to the shop to get a tune. First I need to drive 7km only using the downpipe to get my exhaust finished. Later more 35km to the shop to get a tune. Not sure if it will be safe and don't wanna take the risk. The mods that I have is: - Catless downpipe - IAG AOS Competition - Mac 3 ports boost solenoid - Aftermarket air filter - 3bar link map Did a log and drove back and forward inside the garage and sometimes the AFR looks hi. Could it bring me problems if I drive slow and not boosting? Also after touch the throttle the idle status shows (Hold - RPM Lockout) and the RPM stay around 1500. I tried to solve it but I'm not too confident to do it myself and think will be not a problem drive like that right? Subaru TypeRA V6.pclr Log 2018-10-22 5;23;44 pm.llg
  19. Hey guys, I own a subaru wrxsti 2005. Im currently running on G4 link. I tried 2step before but the 2step was still on at 3+k rpm when I'm driving. Do I need wiring loom and button? If yes. Where can I get one? In need of help. Thank you!
  20. Hi there, i would like to ask if anyone knows if a plug and play g4+ for a dbw can be altered to play cable throttle. it is for a subaru drag car that we have here and has the same as mine but we want to covert it to cable throttle for better response. Thank you in advance Ted
  21. First time poster here, Bit of background, I've installed a Link Thunder on my 2007 Subaru Liberty GT Spec B Manual with a built EJ255. I haven't cut the factory loom, instead made my own patch harness. I've had no trouble setting up the ecu, apart from the Start Position which I have assigned to DI10. I've got a problem where with the key OFF I have 3v on this wire, 7v with the key ON and 9v while cranking. I'll attach a link to a video which shows DI10 and Aux. 8 (Starter Solenoid) are flashing on and off rapidly with the key in the ON position. One I turn the key to start they both stay ON, release the key and they flash again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWuCVqM-828 I've plugged my OEM ecu back in and tested the voltage, 0v with the key OFF and ON, 10-11v while cranking, which I believe is correct. I've also attached a photo of the OEM wiring diagram for reference, I've connected pin C32 to DI10 (Start Position), the "On Level" set to HIGH. Then C20 to Aux. 8 (Starter Solenoid), the "Polarity" set to LOW. I'm trying to work out if I have a wiring problem or if I may of configured something wrong. I can provide any other details, any assistance would be great.
  22. Ted

    Subaru knock problem

    Hi there after finishing with my tuning with the base maps etc i have tried to fix the knock table. the problem that i am facing is that i am puting my nmbers in the kno ck table and is retarding where i have bigger numbers. i have the log files if anyone can understand why is happening. i am also attaching my map file that i run now on the car I'll be great full if anyone can help me Log 2018-05-8 9;31;12 pm.llg TED WITH KNOCK 08052018.pclr
  23. Hey guys, just installed a G4+ on a stock Subaru 2000 Sti Type RA and I'm having some problem. I'm not a professional but know the basic things and wanna learn deeply about that. 1 - My Engine Fan 2 is always on. When I turn the key to on position it's turned on too. 2 - When I start the engine (hot) the idle stay at 900 rpm but if I depress the accelerator it's going to 1500 and stay around this value. 3 - Looks like my wideband O2 sensor is not working properly. I can not see the values changing and the Log shows it always at 0.686. I guess something is wrong with that. I'm using an AEM and used this post as reference to configure: My AEM ground is on the body, not sure if is that the problem. Would be better plug it on the GND on XL Loom? Log 2018-01-6 2_03_54 am.llg Subaru TypeRA V6.pclr
  24. Hello All, I am new to the LINK Community. In simple terms, I just bought my wrx4+ and I will be looking to map it myself as I did before with my old ecu. I am looking to see if anyone could perhaps share some info in regards with my first off setup, because the old ecu, was brilliant in the fact it was simple to use, few tables etc. I knew what i wanted to do and where that simple table is to be found, where the PC LINK can get a bit overwhelming, specially as I get sidetracked all the time by see all the nittygritty stuff (good stuff tho) . So I guess, first question is if there's a topic / video going trough PC Link main features? [I been watching HPA's videos for most of the stuff already, however I'm wondering if there is like a basic one on software only, and how to find what you looking for in there, as I found the software with all these features can get complicated very fast]. Hard to explain myself here I guess, but in a way I'm looking for like the newcomers' guide to Link lol. Secondly, looking at my spec: MDX321T turbo coupled with the Newage STI 565cc subaru (830cc@3bar) decapped injectors , I am interested if anyone has some standard data for setting the injector dead times or some basic settings I could start them off from.. On my old ecu I didn't have access to this data, and it was just a scaler, which meant that during the initial part of an acceleration run I was getting a huge spike of rich fuel, and I would like to avoid this for the new setup. 3.I was also running 4bar of fuel rail pressure, relative to manifold, this was giving me very steady idle, however I'm guessing that if I can better control the injectors, I should be able to lower the fuel rail pressure, or shall I keep it as the injector spray pattern should be better at this high pressure anyways ? Obviously this pressure will affect my dead times too, this is why is confusing to me. The fuel system itself can take it, as is fully built up using new piping, parallel fuel fed to injectors all coupled with AN fittings. 4. ECU Knock = WRX4+ has this built in, however when I browsed the base map, I didn't see it enabled. Should I enable it with the OEM knock sensor ? If yes again, anyone could share what they use for the knock settings? Secondly, shall/can I buy a wideband knock sensor and set that up on it instead? 5. Looking at fuel/ignition tables not sure if because I was browsing the base-map without being connected to ECU but it seems to me that the manifold pressure used is an absolute value? Is that true ? if yes, any reason why not to change it to what i'm used to (as in relative to atmospheric pressure). That's about it I guess, ecu's still not in car (pending delivery). the link can lambda is also going to go in, however I'm expecting that to come with instructions and presets. Full spec, just in case you have questions is 2.1 Stroker version 4 sti heads, Lateral MDX321T turbo gt spec headers and 3"full exhaust. and about that, rest is all standard supporting mods, like front mount, 3 port etc. On my old map i made it to 409 but, but i didn't push hard or anything, as it was the first time i mapped it, and goal was just to take it to 400, plenty more to come from the setup with this new ecu now in hand. Thanks and sorry for the long post.
  25. 2004 USDM STI. Having an issue with the Auto Mode (Wide Band) for Closed Loop Lambda. Wideband is wired to Lambda 1, Quick Tune and Auto Tune functions work. Wideband reports correctly in PClink. When i enable Closed Loop Lambda, i get ZERO corrections, both in stoich and auto wideband modes, its like it just doesnt turn on. Ive gone over my settings on the table and have played with them up and down and cant get any correction to happen. Attached is screen shot from the current configuration. Its gotta be a simple setting im missing.
×
×
  • Create New...