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  1. Today
  2. As long as ST205's have an electrionic speedo drive from the gearbox, yes it is with a little re-wiring. Somewhere in the early 90's toyota swapped from cable drive to electronic, and i'm not sure which side of this cutoff your car is. Have look at the top of the gearbox - if you see a 6-8mm thick cable screwed into it, you will need to swap the speed sensor & speedo cluster for an electronic one off a newer model. If its already got a 3 wire sensor coming out of it, you just need to get into the wiring behind the gauge cluster Factory wiring is gearbox -> speedo, then a speed out wire from the cluster -> all other things in the car (cruise, abs, etc). This is because the wiring was all designed when they ran cable speedo's. You need to take the gearbox->speedo wire and connect it to a DI on the link, then connect an Aux out from the link back to the speed in wire on the gauge cluster. Easiest place i've found to get at both is right behind the cluster. You can then configure offset/multiplier/etc on that aux output. There is a chance you wont fix your problem if its actually a flaky speedo drive motor or something sticking in the gearbox pickup, but at least you will have stats on the ECU you can compare to the speedo needle to help diagnose.
  3. Simon

    Color Cross Hair

    No changes have been made.
  4. Hi guys, Just a quick one is it possible to have the link plug in g4+ control the speedo on a celica st205. The reason I ask is a mate of mine has an erratic speedo and we got talking about having the link control it as its already controlling the rev counter. Cheers.
  5. Well guys that's the car running thanks so much Simon and Adam for the help much appreciated it must of been the sync pulse 1 all along that was giving me the issues thanks again Jamie
  6. So it’s a hardware issue then. I’ll look at the wastegate and boost solenoid more closely. Thank you for your help!
  7. Yes! This is exactly the solution I was hoping for. I will definitely send it in for modifications once I have some planned downtime. Thanks.
  8. Hi Simon I'll get to the car later on today and let you know
  9. Probe

    Color Cross Hair

    Hello, did this ever happen? I am having the same issue when trying to adjust a map through logging with colour gradient on.
  10. Got it all up and running tonight, started making good progress on the fuel table...then the ignition started to breakdown new coil pack and plugs ordered.
  11. Will try to do so and keep you posted. Cheers
  12. The IQ3 manual should explain the config process.
  13. There is something wrong with your wastegate/turbo/plumbing/boost valve. You are in closed loop mode so the numbers in the wGate DC table is just the starting point that the ecu uses as it enters stage 2. The ECU is winding more DC in to try to bring your boost up to target but the boost is not responding. Either there is a big leak or the wastegate is stuck open.
  14. Where exactly in the dash software do i need to change the ECU type to Link? Thanks
  15. CJ is correct, your trigger 2 is incorrect. Trigger 1 was already correct in your triggerscopes above. You need to attach the tune file or a PC log to see the arming threshold. I would follow CJ's suggested values.
  16. Thanks Adam, think i’ll stick with CAN 2 to keep my OCD at bay
  17. The "find devices" tool is only to find Link CAN lambdas, it wont find any 3rd party devices. You will need to set up the ECU as per the IQ3 instructions in the help file and in the dash software you will also need to change the ECU type to Link and then do the "Read Vnet config" process.
  18. You can use either CAN 1 or 2 at the Link end. You can also use either CAN 1 or 2 at the Motec end but their normal convention is to use CAN 2 for the ECU.
  19. Wes H

    Wheel Speed sensor

    Hi Guys, I've just got my car going again, and received the signal converter from VEMS in Hungary quite a while ago, but haven't had a chance to wire it up to see if it works. I'm hoping to get a chance to look at getting it wired into the car this weekend, and at the same time get my wideband connected to the ECU as well. I eventually want to upgrade the firmware too, but as the car is also my daily driver I'll need to make sure that I have a full weekend free before I embark on that. Will definitely let you know when I get around to wiring it up.
  20. Hi I have been trying to connect my haltech iq3 dash to a link monsoon ecu through CAN communication but to no avail. When wiring the 34 pin connector from the IQ3 to the ecu connector,the ecu does not detect the dash in the can set up. Any advice? Thanks Sharvin
  21. Hi there, please see attached wiring schematic, I’m in the middle of wiring up a canbus loom from a G4+ plugin S13 ecu which i believe has an inbuilt resistor for canbus, then next I have a Link can lambda and then last in the chain a Motec C125, am I correct in that I should use Can 2 output on the G4+ as i’ll be connecting the dash to the motec “ecu” connector which is also labeled as Can 2 and also a spliced in resistor? Cheers
  22. are u 100% sure about this? i went over my triggers with david from link UK and he spotted the trigger 1 being the wrong way round too. So it would surprise me that he would see the trigger one being the wrong way round, but not seeing the trigger 2 wiring error i made? I have to point out that the trigger 2 is a sensor that just sits bolted to the cam cover that just reads off a cam lobe. So it might give a bit of an odd signal because of that? Shaving the cam cover a bit would be an option, but if @Adamw thinks its not neccesary i'd rather not, as everything is nicely painted, and that would ruin it. I believe strongly it will work too, as it picks up nicely with the timing light, idling and starting works fine. But the reason i doublecheck with u guys is, i just want to learn how to do it the right way, so i know what i'm doing in the future. Did u guys see the actual values of the threshold tables how they are currently setup now? Or do i need to add the file to make u able to see at what it was set to during testing these trigger scopes?
  23. Here are my settings that have been working fine for years and I have not changed or tampered with.. With these settings, I'd expect stage 1 to be 85%, stage 2 to be lower than that and stage 3 even lower for the WG DC.. Instead, here's what the data log shows:
  24. Hello all, I have an issue that's causing the car to limit boost. Here's the story, I hope you'll bare with me: The car was tuned for 30psi maximum boost and has run on that setting for years without a problem. Recently, my transmission failed, so I decided to swap in a bigger better one. After the swap was completed, I drove the car normally for a while to break in the new trans and clutch. When I attempted my first full throttle run, I noticed the boost wouldn't exceed 20psi roughly. I tried a couple of more times in the following days and it wouldn't boost more than spring pressure which is 18psi. I decided to check my WG DC. My WG DC table has 50% DC which tapers down to 37% as the RPMs climb. So I logged WG DC while doing a WOT run and found that the ViPEC commands 85% for stage 1, then 95% for stage 2.... The car built boost fine for years... I checked the wastegate plumbing and it looks fine. The photo below shows how it's routed. I feel like I'm at a dead end and I'm out of ideas.. I appreciate your help!
  25. 400s

    Trigger Setup - Evo 5

    Full tank of Fuel. Fuel Pump comes on. There is 42 psi of steady fuel pressure.
  26. cj

    Trigger Setup - Evo 5

    That start + stumble + cut out immediately looks similar to what you see with a lack of fuel. Completely off track from the original trigger issues I know, but you are now seeing sensible RPM and no errors. I'm assuming you have run the trigger1 calibration process and seen stable crank marks at the end of it? Have you checked that you have fuel in the tank, and your pump comes on when cranking? Do you have a pressure gauge or sensor anywhere in the fuel system you could check for pressure?
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