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  2. Yes, error values are adjustable. 68F is 20 Degrees Celsius so its possible that's the error value. The event log will tell you if you have any errors logged.
  3. Richard Hill

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    Your error low value for the Lambda is set to 1 Volt. This should normally be 0.05 V or sometimes might need to be 0 Volts to suppress errors on start up. Also, try the Link NTC1-8 & IAT1-8 Calibration and see if they are closer (that normally fixes the bottom end of the cal.)
  4. Today
  5. I will check when I get home. I don't think I noticed any fault codes, but maybe I wasn't looking in the right place. Regarding error value, is that something that is customizable? Also, if my memory serves me I believe the sensor low and high values were set to 0v and 5v.
  6. Are there any fault codes logged for that sensor? If its at 0V or 5V the error value will be substituted. Also, check your error low and error high values. Normally these should be 0.05 and 4.95V HTH, Richard
  7. Hi i have no tuning knowledge so i'm attaching the tune file the shop has on my car , hoping any expert here can check if they have the parameters correct. I'm using a monsoon ecu. 1jz vvti / gt35 single on 12 psi. / 760cc injectors / Tial wastegate set 1 bar / headers / 3 inch straight pipe / stock ignition coils on bkre7 ..producing 350whp. the car idles / runs smoothly , as it has been dyno-tuned ( i wasnt present but i have the runfile pics. ). my concern is that the wideband AFR attached now to my car is reading 12.5 idle / cruising ...10.9 WOT ...but shop told me it really is 14.7 with the dyno egt sniffer and my wideband is not reading right. is there a way to check if everything is ok with the attached tune file ? ..thank you so much. eb1.pclr
  8. Brilliant didn’t think of that! will get a log and have a look
  9. Trying to determine if ecu will default to 68f if the circuit is not complete. I noticed while trying to tune my car that the ecu never moves away from 68f even when temps are clearly much higher. Any ideas what would cause this? The ecu has been on the car and was working before I rebuilt the engine. The previous motor overheated, bot sure if that could have cause sensor to go haywire or maybe even wiring? New motor has bigger cams and intake plenum, so I've been learning how to tune and make adjustments myself.
  10. Richard Hill

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    It's also very unlikely that the first 2 lines of the ignition table will ever be used as they are set to 0 and 20 MAP.
  11. Thanks This is open loop on the icv and the ignition timing. It only started after the customer did some wiring in the bay. it only did it twice then went back to normal.
  12. Cj - the wiring is completely original and they are both ignition live fed and im pretty sure nothing else is feeding the ecu a permanant 12 volts either. Both solenoids have a 12v supply with the ecu loom A unplugged, as they are fed through the key with igniton on Adamw - i did read about that with the r34 on another post but i have removed the following from the car including most wiring / relays / fuses and sensors - air con, hicas, power steering, purge valve, maf, idle air control valve. When i say removed i mean everything to do with them. All traces of cables linking them, hicas ecu, associated wiring the lot. I may of missed one or 2 bits of cable (when it gos into the internal fusebox then comes out somewhere else on it, i didnt following it out the other side) Sorted!!!! technically it was none of this at all, wasnt a solenoid, wasnt anything it was the ignition live i used for the eccs relay that ended up staying alive, i had a 'spare igintion live' that i kept just in case under some tape, chucked that on, put the other one to the ethrottle relay as thats triggered by the ecu and now the car turns off and on as it should do.
  13. Adamw

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    Your fuel pump set up and the fuel pressure increase solenoid on ign 8 all looks to be ok to me. Have you actually tried adjusting the fuel? You say "stock engine" but the master fuel is set to 8ms. 8ms would be typical for injectors around 1000cc. If you have the stock 440 or 550cc injectors then the master will likely need to be more like 13-20ms. That doesnt sound like anything to worry about to me. If you want to do a more scientific test, pull both sensors out and hang them in a cup of ice water.
  14. Does it still have air conditioning? That is normally the common problem one in an R34 as the relay coil is "hot fed" (live all the time) and will cause a back feed if connected to a normal aux output. The VCT and boost valve should be ok if here wiring is as per factory - powered direct from the ignition switch.
  15. Its joke? Do you think i dont check 12v supp before send to your service ecu from Ukraine to NZ? I check, all OK, but inj3 still dont work.
  16. cj

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    lambda going lean would line up with fuel delivery problems. Because you have it working with a factory ECU we can likely rule out mechanical issues - blocked air or fuel filter, faulty fuel pump, bad regulator, etc. Based on this, this only this I can see in the config that would impact fuel pressure is if the fuel pump isnt being controlled properly by the link ECU. I'm assuming all the pinouts etc are correct, which just leaves the fuel pump control being wrong - maybe its not sending the right signal to run the pump at full power, maybe the PWM signal needs to go to 12v instead of ground or vice versa. Looking at the wiring diagram, these dont run a simple on/off relay, but a separate fuel pump controller, and there is a pin that is PWM'd to tell the fuel pump controller how hard to drive the pump. My money is on the config for this pwm signal being wrong (or maybe on the wrong pin, so it stays on low power at all times) - hence my suggestion that if you dont see any improvement from ecu config changes, put ground or 12v straight to the controller so it runs full power, then you know what the voltage needs to be and can work backwards from there to make it happen.
  17. sama

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    Thanks for the pointer CJ and Simon, The car has an NTK AFR display but I haven't been able to get the output to work so I ordered an AEM one to be sure I can work with it. The AFR goes to lean when i do the WOT. The strange thing is that the fuel pump was working fine before changing the ECU as I drove it from clients house to my office, I haven't checked fuel pressure but I will get it checked. Other thing I am having issues with is the AIT, I installed the IATB Bosch sensor is 4°c above ambient or ECT and i haven't figured if there is a way to calibrate it. I attach my actual version just in case I need some type of firmware update.
  18. cj

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    I think its something to do with your fuel pump control causing the pump to shut off or go into low output mode. The bit where your foot is flat, but your RPM is dropping is the key point for me. Can you get your wideband running so we can see if its going rich/lean while the revs drop at full throttle? Alternately, get a fuel pressure gauge/sensor installed? Maybe try setting the fuel control cutover to something like 4k & 50% DC as a test, and if that makes no difference, try disconnecting pin aux2 from the ECU and applying straight 12v to it (which should force the pump to high throughput mode)
  19. Simon

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    There is no cuts or limiting out of the ECU so can rule out any limits. As CJ pointed out that ignition timing is odd and should be corrected. Fuel flow has been checked? Pump is running?
  20. Thank U Simon.. sorry for silly question... Problem solve
  21. Can you do a log of this happening + post your map? it sounds like you are exceeding one of the parameters that needs to be met to let one of the idle systems kick in. Maybe ignition idle control never kicks in and your timing values in the main igntition table are too high for the revs to drop.
  22. what does the wiring to those 2 solenoids look like? Is the ECU grounding an output to turn them on, and what does the wiring on the "other" side of them look like - ie is it permanent 12v, switched, via some other relay? Have you got anything else connected to the ecu that is permanently fed 12? injectors, coils etc?
  23. That looks like the 12V supply to the injector is missing. Check at the injector plug you have a good 12V feed.
  24. Simon

    Unlock code help

    If you can provide proof of purchase and the dealer details we can help. Email in to sales@linkecu.com
  25. You will need a non driven speed assigned but this can be the same input as the driven.
  26. Yesterday
  27. plestida

    Unlock code help

    I just got a new G4+ Storm install in the project car and its asking for the unlock code, the dealer I bought it from was supposed to bench test and "unlock" it for me, and now he's gone on holiday, conveniently. No one else at his shop has been any help or able to provide a code. So I'm stuck and I don't know what to do, any help would be massive! Thanks for advise in advance!
  28. sama

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    Thanks CJ, will correct it it idles pretty nice, but will give it a try of course! Supra base log WOT issue.llg
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