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  1. Past hour
  2. Abu3looy

    Atomx problem

    I install 4ecu AtomX for 4 cars all same problem have problem in idal afr cant be 14 There's missing 83885
  3. Ok, I will turn off the additional IAT, just not sure how to identify which one the ECU is using for the IAT reference The TPS works. So, having cleared the codes I finally decided to do a WOT run with the car and strangely I hit the RPM limit at 4500 RPM and the log shows a jump from 4500 to 7800 which is the configured RPM limit. I'm thinking it may be trigger related but haven't gotten around to doing a Trigger Scope... sigh!
  4. Today
  5. Does GTX have Hall Effect or Reluctor sensor on ABS ? None of two wires are grounded, I try splice both wires, none is giving signal when tires rotate. (with or without ABS connected) If I ground one and try signal on other one - still no signal, with or without pull-up on. Same if reverse wiring. (with or without ABS connected) - I use DI 5 as input.
  6. How about your fuel trims during ffs?
  7. Thanks Adam! i will try this today and report back. i reinstalled the factory CAS last night and it fired right up after i did ECCS sync. i will put on the PRP trigger and try again with the instructions you mention above. thanks for the help.
  8. Hi there, Just looking for some help on how I should be setting up my ignition cut for my flat foot shifting set up, wanting to get as big of a flame as possible(for photography & cutting down on boost lag) I only just got it setup and was messing around with the percentage of ignition cut and have gotten mixed l results, at around 25% I got a massive flame but could never replicate it, at 45% I get a constant setup for ffs but not getting the flames I'm after, anything after 55% I get no results. Just wondering if retarding the timing or using a different setup would help? Thanks The ffs is setup using a clutch switch and a H pattern gearbox
  9. This should do it:
  10. Unfortunately "start switch" is not something you can do directly via CAN in the G4+. The only work around is if you have a spare aux output and real DI, then you can activate the aux output via CAN which is then connected to a real DI.
  11. Adamw

    Thunder & Acdelco d585

    I havent used one for many years and have always got away with it. However if I was going to use one I would go for something like a UBZ111 or a ford yl1z-18801-aa
  12. Aurora

    Thunder & Acdelco d585

    Thanks for the reply. Could you recommend a specific automotive part # (Ford 93ab-12a019-ab seems to be NLA for a while now), or should we just pick an ultra-low ESR tantalum capacitor of appropriate capacity/voltage/temperature range?
  13. Hello, I use one of the switch in ECUMaster CAN keypad/ PMU for cranking switch function. In Fury ECU I put CAN DIG #1 in Receive User Stream to get cranking switch status from keypad/PMU, I wonder how can I activate DI1 as Start Position?. If I set DI1 to Start Position will ECU expect resource from real switch connection to DI1 ? Appreciate for help I can't try by my self at the moment since the keypad has not arrived yet
  14. Hey all, Installing a link 3 bar map sensor onto my sr20det running a link G4, but have no option for a link 3 bar sensor in sensor type. Any ideas, Cheers.
  15. Ok, perhaps there is another aux connected to something live. For some of the stuff that has a relay or fuse you can test by getting it to back feed then pulling the relay/fuse for each aux circuit and if it suddenly switches off then you have found the culprit. Some of them may not be easy to test that way so for those you will have to pull one wire out at a time and do an on/off test.
  16. Loos like The intake manifold is where I need to ground to. Just when I thought I'd finished all my wiring and loomed everything up
  17. Removed Plug B - pin 2 (injector 7) turn ignition on and off and still back feeding.....
  18. if the gauge is outputting 9V to the ECU then that gauge output isn't compatible (signal to ECU has to be with 0-5V). 9V into the analog will read as 5V and so will 1.365 Lambda meaning the calibration and analog input are working correctly but the signal you are feeding into the ECU is not correct. Adam and I were both looking for the voltage value that can be found in the runtime menu (F12) Analog tab next to Analog 5 as that is the voltage that the ECU is reading and passing through the calibration.
  19. We want to know what voltage AN Volt 5 is reporting. It should be 2.5V with the sensor unplugged. If it is not then you either have wired it wrong or your AEM device is faulty.
  20. It’s the stock v1-2 base map on your preloaded maps and it’s outputting 9volts with key on engine off
  21. Oh man, sorry I just noticed something very obvious that I missed earlier. Your trigger 1 & 2 are swapped over. You should have the 12 teeth on trigger 1 and the single tooth on trig two but yours is opposite. You dont need to change wiring as the plug-in ecu has dip switches to allow for the different R32/R34 wiring. Have a look at which position your switches are in now and move them to the alternative setting.
  22. Yesterday
  23. Hi, I've noticed that the MXS dash with GPS attached says "No nearby tracks" when driving around the street. That's fine... Would expect that! How do you configure each track with start/finish lines etc? Does it automatically do this when it senses a nearby track?
  24. Thanks Adam, i tried that and i am still getting the same results. i looked at the gapping for the hall sensors, and they are within the spec that PRP states. i tested power to both cas and crank signals when cranking the engine. CAS stays around 4V, but crank drops to 3/2.5V when cranking.
  25. Ok, I dont see much wrong in your setup. But with zero RPM nothing is going to happen. I have seen before a problem where G4+ does not initialise the triggers correctly after a major change has been made to the trigger settings. Can you try this: Change trigger mode to Subaru V1-6. Do a store and power cycle. This will reinitialise and overwrite all trigger settings. Once reconnected then change your trigger settings back to how they are now and see if you have RPM.
  26. Hi Adam, attached is my log and calibration file. something i wanted to mention, when i test ignition with a sparklight, i am getting spark during my test. R32 GTR Cranking Log.llg Nissan R32-R34 GTR G4+ Xtreme Plugin - NEW CAL V1.pclr
  27. I'll check the wiring diagrams and see where it goes from the ecu
  28. Kanjo`

    Fuel map inquiry

    I can feel the difference of the vtec engaging (besides the noise chnage) . I have tried to turn it off and test it and it's a pretty obvious difference .unfortunately for the time being I found not have access to a dyno and everything is on the road . That is the reason that I am sceptical of the injectors . Except if they are externally OEM but they have done some mods to them . Are there any suggestions to look at ? Will swapping over injectors be any benefit as I have a set of rdx injectors that I might try and see how they perform .
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