All Activity

Thanks Vaughn. The Powertune is connected and functioning, at a basic level at least. The Solo will be 50-60cm off the Link-Powertune bus, and I have so far been unable to find any AiM documentation for Solo-LinkG4x, looks like there may be for earlier Links, or maybe the AiM site is out of date - I will follow-up with the local AiM distributor next week. Is that distance (50-60cm) a deal-breaker? I note the two CAN channels, is that simply a software thing and they both use the one physical set of wires? Or are they wires separately? The next step will be to download my tune, which I will do over the weekend. Thanks again for your assistance! Ed

Ok, the same to wire the injectors?? Then use the mode multi point group injection? Thank you

Ok, got it, thanks

Hello , I don´t think they do this .to use your pnp ecu you can cut or remove all pin of your 350z ecu connector and solder or pin the ls engine wiring to the 350z ecu connector You will change you ecu map to of course

Thing both at a point. To start with increasing frequency after that DC

you don't need PID for this, just an aux output used as PWM. you want to increase the frequency or the duty?

No, Ign 1 to 1& 6. Ign 2 to 5&3, Ign 3 to 4&7, Ign 4 to 8&2. There is a note in the help file that explains how it works so I will use that to give a bit more info.

The GP Temp runtime will still do anything you want in the ecu. The native oil temp runtime is only available on AN Temp inputs. To send the GP Temp via CAN to a display you can load the configurable generic dash user stream and swap oil temp with the GP temp. Attach a copy of your tune if you need help to do that.

Your G4X had a CAN lambda set up, is that no longer connected? Your lambda calibration still looks a bit unusual to me, what controller do you have connected? The rest looks ok.

Can you attach a copy of your tune. Did you try both 500K and 250K bitrates?

It appears there is an issue with your TPS main signal. If you have already replaced the throttle then it would have to be a bad connection to the TPS main sensor somewhere. The throttle position control uses the TPS main sensor, the TPS sub is only used as a comparison for error checking. In both of your logs the TPS main gets erratic just before the engine stalls, but if we look at TPS sub it is not erratic and is actually sealed shut at zero. So it looks like TPS sub is actually the correct one and TPS main is wrong. I think that could also explain the MAP signal taking a long time to bleed away the vacuum yesterday as with the throttle sealed shut there would be vacuum produced until the engine completely stopped. The engine is still actually turning after the log shows zero RPM, this is just the point where the trigger signal is no longer reaching the threshold. Since the TPS sub signal looks reasonably realistic I think that suggests the 5V and gnd is probably ok, the issue is more likely with the TPS main signal connection so that is what I would concentrate on first. I would start by setting up a big gauge on a PC Link screen with TPS main displayed, watch that while yanking/bending/stretching/shaking the loom and connectors around the throttle, ecu, and the path in between. Hopefully you will see it go crazy when doing that. As Vaughan said yesterday this is just idle ignition control hitting the max clamp trying to keep the engine alive.

Have changed fuel table and ign table and AFR lambda target to TP Main. I think I have set up the linear cal table properly, keeping in mind I'm running methonal. I've attached the updated tune. carl new map updated 19042024.pclr

I have the nitrous activated and working with on/ off switch at the moment. I want to create an progressive controller. At the launch I want a fix percentage of nitrous and increase the Hertz after 60ft.

Yes i have done some conversion on this platform .what do you want to know about this?

Seems like in the G4+ range you can only assign an An Temp input as the specific function Engine Oil Temp. You may need to look at re-wiring some stuff if this is important to you It looks like this limitation has been lifted in the G4X/G5.

what does the PID has to do with PWMing the Aux output controling the solenoid? what is the value you want to control in closed loop?

I've setup my AN 2 input as oil temp, external pull-up etc, and have labeled it as such. But I can't find where to code this so the ecu displays it as oil temp, particularly under runtime values and also as an output for a digital dash. I can view the data under analog channel but want the ecu to actually code the input as oil temp. The drop-down menu only allows me to code it as a GP Temp. Cheers

Thank you very much. Really appreciate it. Have you done much in the way of turning for individual coil-plugs set up?

Hi @Adamw, Does the 'Onscreen button press' G4+ example from the original post still function the same way in the G4X / G5 firmware? IE: I'm having trouble keeping a CAN DI activated after an onscreen key press in the G5 firmware - the CAN state reverts to "Fault" after 2 seconds. I had a look at the help file and noticed the CAN Latching comment - I've tried both Active and Inactive latched states - but any and all configuration still exhibits the same behavior: The CAN DI triggers into an Active after CAN keypress, activates the output, then after 2 seconds reverts to Fault and terminates the output. G5 The same CAN / Virtual AUX config worked under the G4+ before I ported it over, the only differences being the Engine Fan outputs - as the G5 options now binds an output directly to a Virtual AUX rather than a GP Output G4+ Thanks

nevermind it is still doing it, The only correlation I see is the ignition timing starts becoming erratic and locks at 25 btdc also when its about to shut off even if I floor it the car still shuts off and the code that constantly comes up is code 76 (I have replaced throttle body already today and it made no change) attached is log car ran fine for an hour and than problem came right back mustangstillshuttingoff pm.llgx

Anyone can help me set a pulse width modulation PID control (nitrous solenoid) Storm Black ECU

Thanks I'll do that

Hello, here a start up map for a 4agze small port . some output and digital input will differ you need to adjust them have a nice day Monsoon 4AGZE BASE MAP.pclx

Thanks Adam, that’s the info I didn’t know about FPR’s. But if it looks abnormal and more than it should be I’m back to square one. The voltage dropping at the ECU so much and in conjunction with this happening does bother me and it’s the only thing now that I haven’t really spent a huge amount of time on. I feel like it needs sorting either way. I’ll do another run with the Picoscope attached to the pump to check Voltage and Current just to be sure nothing has changed there. Next, I’ll spend some time looking at the ECU voltage drop, as quite frankly there is nothing else I can think of to try or test…

It was a faulty kill switch, I was running the cartek battery insulator kill switch that isolates the ground. I am assuming it was messing with the vehicle ground. When I bypasses the switch all the problems went away. so basically a bad ground. also I was using a very small air hose for Map so I also changed to a bigger diameter hose (didn't make a difference to shutting off) but the response is better. Nevermind it still does it