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Hi, All these logs are from a laptop so far. I think I have ECU logging setup correctly now. I've upped the trigger filtering to see if that helps also. I'm having trouble getting the ECU to log with the ignition on and not started so here is a PC log of ignition on and the fuel pump activated by test output and then an ECU log of the car running with boost ID removed. Let me know if this is correct and what you wanted. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mJn5RO5SuzN2F3IRp28r3LUACWWhKNJO/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/177C7uUiZP9Au9B7Bu4d8_o7jh4rG2iO-/view?usp=sharing

Hey all Link G4X PnP user here for my USDM evo 9. Questions regarding setting up the gear shift control in my car. My car is standard 5spd trans with synchros. On the newest firmware, Do I need to set up all of the "Dog Unload" stuff as well as the Main Shift stuff or will I just use the Main Shift settings being that I have a standard synchro transmission? And if I do need to set up the dog unload settings, how different are they going to be from my main shift settings? Or will they be similar? Trying to get the best shift I can. Thanks for any info.

Alright thanks you I will try that today !

At least half of the questions asked here or on Facebook can be answered by the person asking the question simply looking at the Help! However, yeah, ideally a little list or tooltip or something in the app to indicate what can be found will hopefully cut down some instances of that question!

Looking at the logs again, are the log files direct from a laptop log or via the logging memory in the ECU just to know the logging frequencies? The reason I ask and i am sure I have asked this before the RPM and fuel pressure sensor out are terribly unstable, the map sensor signal (output) isnt thou. I find it very hard to understand why the fuel pressure is dropping off even at base boost? can you clarify what base fuel pressure is please , 1- with the pump being run via the test output (so no possible issues with interference etc) 2- with the car running with the boost ID removed from the fuel pressure reg, can these be logged at the highest frequencies (500hz +) please to see whats happening with the outputs please.

Thanks Adam, Apologies for not reverting sooner, i think I have the problem resolved the vague question I posed earlier as the car can finally start. I'm presently needing so direction, advise and help. I'm wanting to remove the use of my Greddy stand-alone boost controller and want to utilize the 3 port boost solenoid. Any ideas how to get the SI Drive to operate with the a Cobb EBCS or Haltech Boost solenoid? Now that the ECU is setup, I'll start on the removal if the engine with my mate over the next 10 to 15 days. Btw, does anyone know what this error message mean? Post below.

Yes, it should be set as per Vaughans picture, the civic plug-in has a separate high-side drive circuit for aux 5 & 6 on the adapter board.

All GM sensors are the same calibration so from that perspective it should work. Just the accuracy and reliability of an unknown manufacturer and origin will be your gamble.

Cruise switch is irrelevant. You should have 12V coming from fuse 18 to the clutch switch, from there it goes through the normally closed switch, straight to ecu pin A1. So A1 should see 12V when the clutch isn't pressed and 0V when it is pressed.

Your location might help you

So the help manual only mentions Link CAN Lambdas but that's due an update. The CAN Devices tab search function can find: Link CAN Lambdas Various Blink and Grayhill Keypads Link Razor PDM Link DI Driver-4 It does not find: Aim dashes Gauge Art gauges AEM X series UEGO etc It does require the devices to talk back, it can't identify just from a generic received CAN ID hence why it only works on specific CANOpen devices and devices that we explicitly write the code for.

If you tell the PDM to turn the output off and then tell it to turn it on again the fault stuff is reset, so maybe feed your control of the pin through a gp logic with the gp logic condition being your existing logic AND the keypad button is not active.

Seems this question comes up pretty frequently, both at least here and on Facebook - no doubt Support and the Community are sick of answering it. The software needs a note to indicate which CAN Devices are supported by the "CAN Devices" / "Find CAN Devices" tab in CAN Setup; Still unsure whether its Link branded CAN devices only, a combination of Link & AIM products, etc? A quick look through the Help File doesn't really indicate what is supported by the function either - please add clarification @ Link Support. Thanks

Hi guys Just wondering if there is a way to have 1 of the keypad buttons be a "fault reset" so it will reset output retry counters without cycling power? Thanks Tom

I would start by trying to hold it in steady state in one or more of those cells and seeing how much fuel it actually wants, if it is missing that will read lean which will make it want more fuel, if you are missing under high vacuum and want to prevent that then consider running a wider spark plug gap and more spark energy. To just prevent quick tune from attempting to tune those cells you could use the "Load Lockout Lower" setting to prevent quick tune from working below a certain point.

Still no dice... I did forget to mention the car is swapped, and whoever did the wiring (not me) clipped the wires I think were to the cruise control switch. What's weird is there's only 4, and the colors don't match up... I might try tracing them to figure out what they are. Any ideas on a workaround? Or am I going to have to repin in the cruise control switch just so the signal is getting a complete circuit?

I know this is an old post but I just picked up a EJ22 and need the same controller.

Sorry I meant Quick tune

Will this Ethanol Sensor work with link? I used this one with Hondata S300 ECCPP Flex Fuel Composition Sensor E85 For GM Impala 2012-2013 13577429 https://www.ebay.com/itm/293655891168

I just picked up a 2.2 subaru with a Link G1 and after I install some new larger injectors I will probably need it tuned. Can anyone recommend a place or person that can do that for me? Thanks Garrett

Can't check the schematic right now but pretty sure the Aux is supposed to be driven low and that there is a FET on the bottom board to make the actual output high side.

If I decide to connect the oil pressure gauge to the CAN do I have to use another 120 ohm resistor for this gauge? How it would look the diagram for this setup? Also what would be the rate and the id I will be using for the oil pressure sensor? Sorry for all this questions, but this is new to me. Also Im using this evo 8 g4+ plug in on my 2g dsm gsx and I would like to also know if the knock sensor Im using is the right one or should I go with the Link Knock Sensor doughnut style? Thanks for the knowledge.

Yes it is the X series oil gauge, I did tried the voltage settings if that fixes the error problem I will just leave it alone. Those were the settings I used for the wideband. IMG_3391.heic IMG_3392.heic

According to the help menu all the digital inputs can read 10kHz or higher depending on the amplitude of the signal. Your wiring plans should work fine.

What "auto tune" are you referring to? If there are values that work well in stead state for those spots you can mark those cells as "tuned" (click Z while in that cell or group of cells), and/or if using closed loop long term trim, you can change to using a max/min table set and changing what the maximum value allowed to add or subtract in those areas are.