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Speshi Racing reacted to a post in a topic: pulse width modulation PID control (nitrous solenoid)
- Today
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Adamw started following pulse width modulation PID control (nitrous solenoid)
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A NOS solenoid would typicaly be done using a GP PWM. A basic example below. The solenoid is active when TPS is above 80% and MAP is above 200Kpa and there are no limiters active. The PWM table you can set up however you like. Use a 4D fuel table to add extra fuel when the NOS is active.
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wow that means I have le mans car's technology in mine too!
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LilMoosh reacted to a post in a topic: Tach reading 600rpms high
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Adamw started following Decaying trigger scope. V5-6 Subaru. and How would you like to mount your ECU?
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Arron Eades reacted to a post in a topic: How would you like to mount your ECU?
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Sorry I assumed your dash was using generic dash stream. There is a conigurable version of the dash2pro stream in the CAN folder also. I have updated your map. mike gordon downloaded tune New CAN.pclr
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Some inspiration for @Arron Eades . The preferred ECU mounting system for every Le mans car since 1990 :
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No bridging needed. Consider the box I have marked "solo" on the pictures above as the CAN connector somewhere near your solo. You will have 2 CAN H wires crimped into the CAN H pin (1 in and 1 out) and 2 CAN L wires crimped into the CAN L. The bus will be continuous whether the solo is plugged in or not.
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The amplitude variation on the scope will likely just be the crank slowing down as each piston comes up to TDC. It looks quite usable for start up and will likely even up when running. The colours of arming thresholds dont change as there is no specific value that is right or wrong.
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GeeEmm reacted to a post in a topic: G4x/Powertune/AiM SoloDL2 - making happy playmates
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GeeEmm reacted to a post in a topic: G4x/Powertune/AiM SoloDL2 - making happy playmates
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Thanks Adam! The top layout isn't workable for distance reason, but bottom ok. As the Solo will be only an occasional fixture (dual duty car), I will need a bridging plug to complete the circuit when it is absent, that should be straightforward I assume? So there will be a plug, probably in the glovebox, with a bridging plug linking the two Can High and two CAN Low terminals. When installed, the Solo will have a cable run of four wires (two CAN High, two CAN Low) - will they be two twisted pairs, or one twisted quad?
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Hey All, I'm looking at running a Plex USDM-100 Can Gauge. Not too sure how to setup the Gauge to read off the Link CAN Lamda though. I will be running a Link G4X in future, however for now I am looking to run the CAN Gauge and CAN Lamda only. I have no idea what I'm looking at when attempting to setup the CAN Gauge to read from the CAN Lamda. Any constructive input would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi Adam Found a vacuum leak at the ethrottle adapter and thats been sorted. Did some driving log see attached if you can make any suggestions, still has quite an idle hunt it comes and goes. cruising around.llg sam idle tune.pclr
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Hurtenstein started following Decaying trigger scope. V5-6 Subaru.
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Nearly ready for a first start and checking over things, my trigger pattern is inconsitent. G4x plugin set to V5-6 pattern. The pattern is what I was expecting to see, 2,1 on the crank and 3,1,2,1 on the cam, but the peaks are all over the place. The noise on the trigger 2 between spikes is also concerning. What could be the cause? Secondly, should i be seeing these turn green when cranking? I get no errors. Thanks. Trigger Scope - uneven.llgx
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Fixed with a wired in 1k on AN Volt 2. Thanks.
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Lambda controller setup is irrelivant to making the engine run or not. I was only telling you the lambda set up was wrong because you were complaining it was reading wrong further up.
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Adamw started following G4x/Powertune/AiM SoloDL2 - making happy playmates and Single crank sensor vs single cam sensor?
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If you have both then I would make use of them, its only 2 or 3 extra wires. With no cam sensor you cant do sequential fuel or any individual cylinder fuel or ignition trims. Knock control only on pairs of cylinders.
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For the solo2DL set the ECU stream in RS3 to Link CAN BUS BASE. The CAN bus should be a trunk of twisted pair with any stub off the main trunk kept short. You can do it like this: Or I often find a "daisy chain" type variation easier so there is effectively no stub at all, something like this:
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I have a Mazda ZL engine im currently setting up the wiring for. It has a Crank and cam sensor but I was going to just use the crank sensor as its got wasted spark. Am I missing out on anything by doing this? Also do I need to shield any of the ignition wires going to the coils?
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Thanks Adam, that's even better than I'd planned. The decreasing RPM's could make a thief think that they're running out of fuel, and not look for an immobiliser. If the relay/fuse box wasn't already maxxed out, I could even wire a relay so the fuel gauge drops to empty when the immobiliser is activated. Could you please confirm a few things for me regarding the older G4 Link capabilities before I finalise and begin installing the wiring loom. I've been playing with PC Link G4 (not connected to the ECU), and some of the set-up is quite a bit different to the G4X. 1. I want to use Aux3 for the CEL light, but also want it to be the Oil Pressure light (switched by the Link). I know it's possible on a G4X, but can I do this with the G4, presumably using a Virtual Aux for the Oil Pressure, and have it output a constant ground on Aux3 when oil pressure is low? 2. I have a switch wired to DI1 to turn on the radiator fan manually, in addition to the Link controlling the fan. The car has a Line Locker which I want to wire to DI2, and have the Link turn the radiator fan on when the Line Locker is engaged. So 12V on DI1 turns the fan on, or 12V on DI2 also turns the fan on, and fan is also temp controlled. Is this possible? Looking at PC Link G4 it appears to have 3 Virtual Aux Outputs, and I'm worried about having too many overlapping/conflicting inputs and outputs (kill switch, oil pressure/CEL, fan switch, linelock-fan switch). 3. I planned on wiring and configuring Temp 1 as ECT, Temp 2 as IAT, and AN Volt 4 as Oil Temp with a pull-up resistor. However the car has an aftermarket CAN digital display, and I just read this thread on the G4+: I prefer to wire tuning related sensors like IAT to dedicated AN Temp inputs. Should I continue wiring as planned, or should I swap Oil Temp and IAT inputs to make it easier to display the Oil Temp on the digital display? Does it matter either way? Thanks.
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They are not really useful for logging, they just tell you whether a signal is present or not.
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Have set up Can Lambda from ECU controls Did a quick test to see if the engine would fire but no luck +, What am I missing?
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Yeah I worked that out, Another quick question. What is the best rate to run the Trigger 1 and 2 at for logging (crank and cam sensor)
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I'm using the Can Lambda, Not sure why it's showing not connected. I'll check the connections
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Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I just tried with the configurable generic dash stream but it also seemed to make all the other outputs go crazy so its a bit out of my league to alter that. I assume its because the dash wants to see various signals on particular streams and frames I have attached the tune file and if you could assist with having it output the GP temp as oil temp that would be hugely appreciated. mike gordon downloaded tune.pclr
- Yesterday
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the more the merrier
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LilMoosh reacted to a post in a topic: Best LINK Ecu for beginners to learn & grow?
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LilMoosh started following Fuel Table for Supercharger and Relay system for clutched supercharger pulley
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LilMoosh reacted to a post in a topic: Fuel Table for Supercharger
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I think I found the TP2 sub harness damaged. I repaired it, I will circle back to confirm that was the problem (I hate threads that never have a solution) Thank you !
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pulse width modulation PID control (nitrous solenoid)
dx4picco replied to Speshi Racing's topic in G4+
Why do you want to increase frequency? -
pulse width modulation PID control (nitrous solenoid)
Speshi Racing replied to Speshi Racing's topic in G4+
any idea how to set it up?