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  1. Yesterday
  2. I am dealing with some strange overrun behaviour.Although all conditions are met its activating very very late.Sometimes i let the revs fall hit my idle target on purpose and still have not entered the overrun.Please see the attached file.PC Link included.The injector on the log files still working,as far i can see from the duty cycle.Disregard the MAP sensor,it's not functional.The engine is Alpha - N tuned.The only thing that makes sense is the AFR Target Table turned on.But on deccelaration? Overrun Not Activating.llg Mazda Miata Current Map.pclr
  3. duncan351

    2jZGE VVti

    I have Link Fury and I have done a lot of searches with people experiencing trigger issues with this motor. I have my fury setup sequential injection and fire. When I sync the timing with the computer I end up at 265* using the 1jz vvti trigger default settings however when I turn fuel injection back on to try and start the motor kicks back and acts as if the timing is way to advanced. When I put trigger offset back to 200-205 I don't get the issue and the motor is very difficult to start cold. Once its warm its not. My concern is the trigger offset. Its way off. When engine does start it idles fine. I haven't had any time to take it down the road to start tuning it but this trigger offset situation seems like a very often ask issue with these particular motors. Any suggestions?
  4. Hi guys, Running into issues trying to get my Brantz BR3 speed sensor to register w/ my G4+. Sensor is a 3-wire: Red (12V switched) Black (GND) and White (Digital Signal). I am running a Wiring Specialties Pro harness and have had a 2 wire lead for speed sensor built into the trans portion of the harness. Ground and Signal are currently going to the built in plug, Pin 53 and ??? GND, with the 12V going to switched power. When monitoring run time values and manipulating the sensor I do not get any readings and the input shows as OFF. I have tried to switch pull-up resistor ON/OFF and Rising/Falling but so far no luck. Could be not spinning it fast enough by hand but it's 4 pulses per rotation so id figure I would get at least some sort of blip or signal. DI 3 (pin 53) is set to GP Speed. Any insight or help would be appreciated, new to this. -Matt
  5. Its running albeit with a bad misfire and wont idle but here is a log! Log 3.llg
  6. One thing I've noticed recently, If I start the car up from cold the pas fault is present. If I let the car get up to temperature and turn it off and start it up again, the fault has gone and the pas works??
  7. Hi guys I have an issue with my evo 8 usdm when the car is decelerating and it’s reaching 2500rpms and less it starts bouncing( or stalling) like the injectors are off and on off and on. And I was looking if this ecu had an decel cut off option but I don’t see it. Does it have another name? Or do you use the fuel table in vacuum?
  8. Care to share your display file? Is this real dash? I love it
  9. Solace

    Zeitronix WideBand

    Thank you. Yes you r right. Problem solve!
  10. Whilst cranking it was showing between 12 and 14° timing, base is set at 15° I will double check spark order, firing order is correct. I have set the PW and dead times as per the file you linked above although when copy pasting the PW the link knocked the PW figures back slightly? I will check the above 1st then look into master fuel! Thank you you have been a great help! Also the ca has low impedance injectors as standard and I have fitted Id 1050x which are high impedance so I have bypassed the oem resistor, I assume this was the correct thing to do?
  11. I power on the ecu with all wiring connected and only the engine off and the 5v seems ok the problem comes up with the engine running
  12. I'm also facing the same problem and confuse. As the theory state the hotter the air the less dense it is. I am using Toyota MR2 with 3SGTE ST246 engine. Being a mid engine car, this is car is known for it heat soak. My IAT sensor is place between the intercooler and the throttle body. The car runs well in a normal temperature (AFR of around 14-14.7). My location has an average ambient temperature of 35 degree Celsius. However, during hot restart in a hot day, the the AFR reaches 16-16.8. In that time the IAT can reach up to 55-60 degree Celsius at idling. when the car starts to move the IAT will drop and once AFR reaches 14.7 the engine runs smooth. Therefore i need to increase the fuel in the IAT correction table.
  13. It looks like most of it is working and it is not far off running. Have you checked coils are connected to the correct cylinders using the ignition test function? Have you check base timing is roughly in the ball park while cranking? Is there fuel pressure/fuel pump working? Also the log shows quite a high inj PW while cranking so that may flood it quite easy, you might need to reduce your master fuel.
  14. ok so i had an issue with the plug and have now got it attempting to start, can anyone give any info from this log please! Log 2.llg
  15. Depending on the number of teeth the ABS hub wheel has, it might be too high for most ECUs, only Thunder would have a high enough HZ rating to count that quick. There are converters that will change the frequency from say 1200Hz to under 600Hz that would then be usable in most ECUs. This has been covered a few times in other threads. Mostly using ABS sensors for traction control etc. Now, looking at the 2004 WRX/STI wiring diagram, it relies on the gearbox speed sensor for at least the stock cluster. So if you don't have one, the speedo won't work as well. I looked to see if the ABS computer has a SPD output (like some Toyota units) but you are out of luck there. My best advise, chase up a sped sensor and install it into your new gearbox.
  16. I install new gearbox grom STI GRB to my STI04. New transmission dont have speed sensor. Can i use ABS wheel sensor as veh speed sensor. I need connect ABS sensor to DI?
  17. Should be pretty simple, just input the temp vs resistance values. The manual is really good at explaining how to add it in to your the tune.
  18. iceman

    Can lambda set up issue

    Thanks again Richard. Set up as directed and running now. Cheers.
  19. Last week
  20. Hello all, the pin-out diagram for the factory knock sensor is 91. Im assuming that the factory knock sensor can be used regarding this ECU... With that being said what settings are needed as a starting point? Also is there an additional step to get the LINK ECU to communicate with the factory knock sensor? I have initially chosen the following settings: Knock mode: knk internal Freq. Channel: 6kHz Gain channel: 1 Clear I-trim tables: ECu-powered on Window start: 10 Window length: 50 Ign retard limit: 6 Retard gain: 1.00 degrees/% Advance decay: 1 sec Advance rate: 0.5 degrees/sec RPM high lockout: 1000 RPM low lockout: 9000 TP low lockout: 0 TP delta lockout: 5.0%
  21. Yes. The rx8 trigger wheel and sensors are on the jz engine along with coolant temp and oil pressure.
  22. Hi, I have an old G3 ECU, and as far as I can tell there's a CAN connector on the ECU. Can this be used to connect to a dash? And if so, what type of CAN protocol do I select in the dash config? Thanks in advance! Best regards, Sebastian Oh, and I should mention that I have an AIM Strada Dash, and when configuring it, I can select the link G3 ecu.
  23. Hi, thanks, I power on the ecu only with pin 3 (+ 12v) and pins 1-2 (Gnd) without connecting anything else and 5V seems stable
  24. Because the next time I connect to the ECU, the can settings are zero. I guess the installation didn't work then !?
  25. How doo, I'm going to be using this sensor as an oil temp sensor: https://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125 Does anyone have any pointers on dialing it in to my st205 plug in ecu Thanks in advance
  26. Hi all. I just bought an Evo IV GSR -97 with G4+ Plugin in it. The car is supposed to be properly dyno tuned, and it drives fine, but I'm not sure the tuner has set up the idle correctly, or if I might have a hardware issue. Idle is fluctuating +-150rpm, and I've tried pretty much everything with the idle control settings in the ECU now. I can't get it to a point where it's stable, not even in open loop mode. At first, I couldn't get it to go below 980rpm or so at all, so that's when I learned about the base idle screw in the throttle body, and from Mitsubishi/DSM forums it seems like the guys with oem ecu does some kind of base setting of the screw with the ecu idle control disabled, but I can't find a way to disable it in pclink, so I tried disconnecting the connector on the throttle body instead... But even then, I can't really get to a stable idle by adjusting the "BISS" screw. Could this be because the fuel map is badly tuned at idle? Or is it definitely a hardware issue with the throttle body/stepper motor thingy? How do you guys have the Evo 4-6 idle set up? EDIT: I should probably add that I have a spare Evo IV throttle body laying around I could try with (took a better condition BISS screw from it already), but I'd like to avoid and find out it if it's a tuning issue first. Thanks.
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