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That is a very good question sir. I've been trying to find out the answer for a few months now. A potential explanation could be that after some racing i did prior when same symptoms as above occurred, i rewrapped the engine loom for heat protection and in the proccess one of the injectors was knocked out of alignment so the seal wasn't perfect. When I got home i realised i had some "crap" on the bonnet and surroundings. It seemed like the seal allowed some whatever to escape. Thank God no fire or anything else. That could explain some sort of lean condition, although i fixed that issue and it still behaved that way after. It seems to happen only when flogged at the track not when driving regularly. It shook like crazy on 98 after 10 minutes of racing, then when I filled the tank with E85 i was able to race for about half an hr before it kind of started again. TBH is very frustrating. TUNE https://drive.internxt.com/sh/file/376a559f-fdd6-450d-84e1-e01c183b3e10/090f4fdc4c45f35dac8c320049bc69a22579819e69371edc46822e9a8868a6a4 LOG1 https://drive.internxt.com/sh/file/f573abf5-d185-47fe-90d6-66288ec93cd7/c43f58f39749f0a2658a14639478ebf777fa8470cdb35924e8e375866e359888 LOG2 https://drive.internxt.com/sh/file/4015c783-d4b2-4f72-8c6b-2be01ffc3d3b/d9775c2f1bb3f477800da434826545389b8e8f01dc3203521b11d41e2d2facd5 Files are too big to post here so i uploaded to a cloud. Many thanx for your help.

A NOS solenoid would typicaly be done using a GP PWM. A basic example below. The solenoid is active when TPS is above 80% and MAP is above 200Kpa and there are no limiters active. The PWM table you can set up however you like. Use a 4D fuel table to add extra fuel when the NOS is active.

wow that means I have le mans car's technology in mine too!

Sorry I assumed your dash was using generic dash stream. There is a conigurable version of the dash2pro stream in the CAN folder also. I have updated your map. mike gordon downloaded tune New CAN.pclr

Some inspiration for @Arron Eades . The preferred ECU mounting system for every Le mans car since 1990 :

No bridging needed. Consider the box I have marked "solo" on the pictures above as the CAN connector somewhere near your solo. You will have 2 CAN H wires crimped into the CAN H pin (1 in and 1 out) and 2 CAN L wires crimped into the CAN L. The bus will be continuous whether the solo is plugged in or not.

The amplitude variation on the scope will likely just be the crank slowing down as each piston comes up to TDC. It looks quite usable for start up and will likely even up when running. The colours of arming thresholds dont change as there is no specific value that is right or wrong.

Thanks Adam! The top layout isn't workable for distance reason, but bottom ok. As the Solo will be only an occasional fixture (dual duty car), I will need a bridging plug to complete the circuit when it is absent, that should be straightforward I assume? So there will be a plug, probably in the glovebox, with a bridging plug linking the two Can High and two CAN Low terminals. When installed, the Solo will have a cable run of four wires (two CAN High, two CAN Low) - will they be two twisted pairs, or one twisted quad?

Hey All, I'm looking at running a Plex USDM-100 Can Gauge. Not too sure how to setup the Gauge to read off the Link CAN Lamda though. I will be running a Link G4X in future, however for now I am looking to run the CAN Gauge and CAN Lamda only. I have no idea what I'm looking at when attempting to setup the CAN Gauge to read from the CAN Lamda. Any constructive input would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Adam Found a vacuum leak at the ethrottle adapter and thats been sorted. Did some driving log see attached if you can make any suggestions, still has quite an idle hunt it comes and goes. cruising around.llg sam idle tune.pclr

Nearly ready for a first start and checking over things, my trigger pattern is inconsitent. G4x plugin set to V5-6 pattern. The pattern is what I was expecting to see, 2,1 on the crank and 3,1,2,1 on the cam, but the peaks are all over the place. The noise on the trigger 2 between spikes is also concerning. What could be the cause? Secondly, should i be seeing these turn green when cranking? I get no errors. Thanks. Trigger Scope - uneven.llgx

Fixed with a wired in 1k on AN Volt 2. Thanks.

Lambda controller setup is irrelivant to making the engine run or not. I was only telling you the lambda set up was wrong because you were complaining it was reading wrong further up.

If you have both then I would make use of them, its only 2 or 3 extra wires. With no cam sensor you cant do sequential fuel or any individual cylinder fuel or ignition trims. Knock control only on pairs of cylinders.

For the solo2DL set the ECU stream in RS3 to Link CAN BUS BASE. The CAN bus should be a trunk of twisted pair with any stub off the main trunk kept short. You can do it like this: Or I often find a "daisy chain" type variation easier so there is effectively no stub at all, something like this:

I have a Mazda ZL engine im currently setting up the wiring for. It has a Crank and cam sensor but I was going to just use the crank sensor as its got wasted spark. Am I missing out on anything by doing this? Also do I need to shield any of the ignition wires going to the coils?

Thanks Adam, that's even better than I'd planned. The decreasing RPM's could make a thief think that they're running out of fuel, and not look for an immobiliser. If the relay/fuse box wasn't already maxxed out, I could even wire a relay so the fuel gauge drops to empty when the immobiliser is activated. Could you please confirm a few things for me regarding the older G4 Link capabilities before I finalise and begin installing the wiring loom. I've been playing with PC Link G4 (not connected to the ECU), and some of the set-up is quite a bit different to the G4X. 1. I want to use Aux3 for the CEL light, but also want it to be the Oil Pressure light (switched by the Link). I know it's possible on a G4X, but can I do this with the G4, presumably using a Virtual Aux for the Oil Pressure, and have it output a constant ground on Aux3 when oil pressure is low? 2. I have a switch wired to DI1 to turn on the radiator fan manually, in addition to the Link controlling the fan. The car has a Line Locker which I want to wire to DI2, and have the Link turn the radiator fan on when the Line Locker is engaged. So 12V on DI1 turns the fan on, or 12V on DI2 also turns the fan on, and fan is also temp controlled. Is this possible? Looking at PC Link G4 it appears to have 3 Virtual Aux Outputs, and I'm worried about having too many overlapping/conflicting inputs and outputs (kill switch, oil pressure/CEL, fan switch, linelock-fan switch). 3. I planned on wiring and configuring Temp 1 as ECT, Temp 2 as IAT, and AN Volt 4 as Oil Temp with a pull-up resistor. However the car has an aftermarket CAN digital display, and I just read this thread on the G4+: I prefer to wire tuning related sensors like IAT to dedicated AN Temp inputs. Should I continue wiring as planned, or should I swap Oil Temp and IAT inputs to make it easier to display the Oil Temp on the digital display? Does it matter either way? Thanks.

They are not really useful for logging, they just tell you whether a signal is present or not.

Have set up Can Lambda from ECU controls Did a quick test to see if the engine would fire but no luck +, What am I missing?

Yeah I worked that out, Another quick question. What is the best rate to run the Trigger 1 and 2 at for logging (crank and cam sensor)

I'm using the Can Lambda, Not sure why it's showing not connected. I'll check the connections

Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I just tried with the configurable generic dash stream but it also seemed to make all the other outputs go crazy so its a bit out of my league to alter that. I assume its because the dash wants to see various signals on particular streams and frames I have attached the tune file and if you could assist with having it output the GP temp as oil temp that would be hugely appreciated. mike gordon downloaded tune.pclr

the more the merrier

I think I found the TP2 sub harness damaged. I repaired it, I will circle back to confirm that was the problem (I hate threads that never have a solution) Thank you !

Why do you want to increase frequency?