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  1. Today
  2. I'm not sure if the app tells you, but there's at most a dozen Analogue inputs, it would have taken less time to look through them all than it would have taken to ask this question Don't forget that there's a number of built-in calibrations, you may not need to use a custom calibration.
  3. Hi, I want to add an oil pressure sensor into the ECU and can use a spare 0-5V input. When I choose this, I can then use use a CAL table for setting up the scaling. How do I know if that CAL table is already is use for another analogue input Cheers
  4. Purchased SKU 101-0197 the instructions aren't clear on CAN HI or LOW i tried switching the pins between DIG 9 and 10 wanted to run the can 2 path. The CAN status in run time values is all green i assume I've got that right but in run time values check lambda 1 and temp is 00 is that normal? When calibrating the e-throttle i get a fault code aux9/10 when doing the pedal, it calibrates fine and then i clear the code and it operates fine, any thoughts on that? I tried adding my dash 3 times updated all firmware and still can't get it to come up in can set up, the lambda gets recognized, but the dash doesn't. Any Tricks I'm missing? Can the MATH channels for the dash get afr, odometer added for the dash? "C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Base Maps\config 17th march.pclr" "C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\XTreme working.zconfig" SKU CANSS 101-0210 is what im trying to make work and wire into dig 9/10
  5. Well, it's worth a try I guess. Not sure the failure rate on these? Any experience of them? No chance it could be the alternator at high load/rpm? I've only managed to test it at stationary revved up to 5k. One thing I haven't done is look at the waveform it puts out but I suspect it would be ok at idle and high revs and maybe only show an issue when under load + high revs... Only the ECU is seeing the voltage drop but the pump isn't. Wondering what this current draw is that it's seeing. Would the voltage drop at the ECU cause issues? Picoscope all seems to verify pump is working correctly. I can post that here if helpful?
  6. Will do Adam but I have no coolant in it at the moment, so it will not be at NOT.
  7. Attach a log and the latest tune and I can look at the other stuff.
  8. I would say mostly it is the idle control gains too high. Try these changes in orange: I would also give the idle ignition control more authority as E-throttle is too slow to compensate for sudden changes in RPM/Torque. Something like this would be more typical: I would also increase the idle control MAP lockout to about 65Kpa and update to the latest firmware as 5.6.8 had several CL idle improvements. There may still be other factors contributing but they will be easier to see when the big oscillation is gone.
  9. I would be throwing another fuel pump at the car. Thanks
  10. Thanks Laminar, I hadn't actually filled in all of the throttle table over 3000rpm because I wanted the revs to stay low until I proved a few things on a new motor. It's now much 'tamer' to work with. I ramped it up to 1:1 at 50% pedal.
  11. Deklan

    r34 not starting

    Was a bad ground near the radiator water hose on the plenum. The wires fell out at the slightest touch, so recrimped them and good to go. Thanks
  12. Deklan

    r34 not starting

    Hey guys, having trouble with my r34 not starting. Used to start well, however when it was hot it wouldnt start unless jump started. I moved the battery to the boot, bought a bigger correctly sized battery for it etc. Found a blown fuse and replaced it as well, which gave me some success. However a week on from then, it now doesnt start at all. Battery has been on charge and is full, i have checked voltage at lots of pins which stays above 9-10v while cranking. My issues appears to be, that ignition and injectors will turn on and off while its cranking, not allowing it to start. I believe its allowed me to do a log while cranking so ill attach it below. running a nz wirng trigger kit also, which seems to make start up take a while longer when everything is working as it should, unsure if this is an issue or not as well. Thanks PC Datalog - 2024-03-28 12;30;19 pm.llgx
  13. Yesterday
  14. Changed the transmit ID to that of the motec pdm and fixed the ect start position. LINK PCL5 REV.1.pcl5
  15. Yea I have the AEM wideband wired properly I don’t know why it’s reading like that honestly and no the injectors are not stock I have no idea what size the are unfortunately but it does just seem like a fuel issue because when turning fuel off and cranking it( to test ignition and clear out some of that delicious fuel in them cylinders) it starts and revs for a short while before dying (obviously). So since I don’t know the injectors size and my brand new somewhat expensive wideband is not widebanding properly do I have to guess the proper fuel size? Also a little more information the larger injectors were installed because the supercharger made the car run lean with the cold air intake with inner cooler so before i started this the car ran a little rich especially at idle.
  16. Vaughan

    350z g4x plugin

    Your E-Throttle is jamming shut, in the 2nd log you do a blip and when it goes to shut the throttle it overshoots and goes all the way to 0% where it stays. A lower minimum clamp would reducer how hard it closes it but I would say you need to visually inspect your throttle to see why it is staying jammed shut even when you are trying to open it as hard as possible.
  17. I will load up that dead time table tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks In the mean time I have been doing some reading, part of my issue looks like it could be my walbro 255 pump over powering the stock regulator in the tank. A guy on the miata forum was seeing pressures of 80psi at idle and it would fluctuate too. Would explain why my afr’s never stay stable. Will look in to buying a return style set up with fuel pressure/temp sensor
  18. Thanks. Yeah, I'm going to step into it most likely. My temporary engine is going in soon and it's jdm so there is no CKF. Plan is to get up and running with the distributor so I can get up and running. Only item I am missing right now for this phase is a CAN-Lambda but I'm kind of holding out for a brand new MoTeC LTC that's slated for the scrap pile at work. For step 2 I will need to build a new ecu side loom or rework my current OBD2B one a bit to add in the extra features. Step 3 will be the rebuilt engine going back in. At this point I can decide what I want to use to trigger. Two channel Honed kit would be the easy button, it can be readily subbed in for the distributor since all of the connections needed are already there in the disto plug. CKF will aslo be present (2-pin B-series VR style), only a pin move at the ecu side should be necessary to get it working. Mostly I've just been looking for someone who has used the CKF successfully (or not and can explain), as I've only ever heard anecdotally that it won't, but haven't ever had the opportunity to try it myself and understand why. I love this stuff.... should be fun!
  19. A bit of a follow up. You were correct in that the trigger wheel was bent. After swapping it we now see a better trigger scope and zero error counts.
  20. I was just hoping for a tune with your deadtime changes, maybe something would stick out as far as why it was sitting at an odd value. If you go Injector Setup > Deadtime Table > 3D Table, you can open the injector dead time table and right click > Import from File and import the file attached to my last post.
  21. charlesbw

    1mz-fe

    Anyone working on a 1mz-fe to a g4x? Any info at all would be awesome. Base maps, common problems, etc.
  22. olivier

    plex sdm300 gear

    many thanks for your help laminar
  23. Just for my own sanity I moved the FPR boost reference to the rear of the balance tube to use the same as the ECU and wrapped PTFE around the adjustment screw. This made no change. Then I started looking at any high current items I could scope or disable so I disabled the 4WD and ABS as well as pulling most of the relays and fuses that weren't necessary while testing. Still no change. I scoped the pump again and this looks like it's getting the current and voltage it needs and does not dip nearly as much as the ECU voltage so still a mystery why I have the differential fuel pressure.... The ECU is still seeing as low as 12.75v ish when the issue occurs but the fuel pump is only seeing lows of 13.3v Amps increase slightly with increased fuel pressure as you’d expect. The issue is not as pronounced in slower to build RPMs and boost runs. https://drive.google.com/file/d/19L-dyvswf1itpFUykT4HxyCsFmeSISTH/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z3WO-BoKqyAwUJcRv0iRipcx-q0BOcGn/view?usp=sharing
  24. The tune is in the first post I made. I must of made a mistake somewhere then if that is the case. I will redo the deadtime table and check again. The only reason I looked in to deadtimes in the first place was because the VE numbers are really high at idle and idle afr’s were constantly moving after setting it at lambda 1. I will see if i can dig out a decent log when I get back home.
  25. Do you have a PC log and tune that you can share? Differential fuel pressure in modelled mode/returnless is Base Fuel Pressure - MGP. At rest you should have 0 MGP so your deadtime table should pull from the 400kPa row. At idle you'll have maybe -50 MGP so you'd be in the 450kPa row. Under 150kPa of boost you'd have 400 - 150 = 250 kPa differential pressure. I'm not sure what you mean by "where it wants to be" - if you've entered the injector dead times correctly and the engine runs well, I wouldn't get hung up on the value of some arbitrary numbers.
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