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I've had any issue since install where my link CAN Guage will only update when the brake pedal is pressed. All other times it shows either -50/0 except when I've pressed the pedal, then it will show last known value. When the pedal is held, it updates in real time. I installed the Link Fury X and Link branded GuageArt CAN Guage at the same time, I've checked the wiring from the Guage to the ECU and it's all correct as per the instructions. I have the guage hooked up to CAN 2 (Pins 27 & 28) of the B connector. I've followed the GuageArt instructions for configuring both the ECU settings as well as the phone App configuration. I don't beileve the issue is with the app as the selected paramaters and screen layouts I've chosen display correctly. I beileve it's either a wiring issue or more likely a configuration issue with my CAN setup, but I'm unsure of what. Any help is appreciated. The car is a 1997 Toyota Supra I can provide more details about the build if required but the brake pedal and under dash wiring etc is all stock. Also, apologies this is my very first post so let me know if I've left anything out or you require any further info. Boostworx-szr.pclx

I'll update this later properly but swapping the Tomei Type S FPR to a Turbosmart FPR6 has fixed the problem of dropping such a big amount. It wasn't the only problem as I'll update later. The spikes now down only happen when I let the throttle off as you can see then it's back to normal. 296kpa is reported as a baseline so now only dropping 10-12kpa at a maximum while on 1 bar of boost and 7k RPM! Well happy!

Ok I will do a LOG in this week and send it here, I did the timing light trick with a old spark cable to verify the spark position, thanks anyway I swear that in the trigger offset menu I cant negative values, anyways with the timing light it marks the degrees that are on the table, I will try, thanks

Hallo again, yesterday i've tune the evo 9 for hill climb I was talking about on the other topic, on dyno... anyway, every thing is quite good, but.... i've got only one odd thing I could not explain: on very first wot (after about 4 hours of dyno brake in) i had a single trig 1 error: Note: this car has kiggly 12 tooth kit and modified ex cam weel as kiggly suggest. Trig scope is quite good, each trig 2 edge is far from trig 1 edge (see scope attached). After this only one issue car runs well all day long. My question is: what can be the cause for this trig error on my setup? tks, bye Trigger Scope - 2024-04-23 12;28;19 pm.llgx trig 1 err on 5500.llgx

Hey Adam, my g4+ is from 2019 do you think that it's possible my mosfet is bad? I was reading a thread between you or Simon and godzillamf, he seemed to be having the same issue that he solved by running a relay to pin 16.

Provided you have both a crank and cam sensor, you could wire injectors in pairs like below, set injection mode to sequential. This will give you what we call semi-sequential. The injection events will then be more correctly timed with valve events, just 1 injector in the pair will fire 45deg earlier than ideal and 1 injector will fire 45deg later than ideal. But still better than multipoint group mode where the injection events arent timed with valve events at all. Inj1 drive to Cyl 1 & 5. Inj2 drive to Cyl 7 & 2. Inj3 drive to Cyl 6 & 3. Inj4 drive to Cyl 4 & 8.

Another trigger option is the honed development trigger kit. It utilizes k series oem hall effect sensors. And you wont have to worry about when your dizzy sensors are gona failed, and it inconsistencies

With the CAS aligned in the factory position as per the service manual, the trigger offset would usually be around -90 to -100deg. 288 probably means you are sparking at TDC exhaust stroke.

I think the cruise PID is just a bit too aggressive. You can see below how noisy TPS delta gets when cruise is active, even at the fixed speed, then where you change the set speed you see the big spikes in both directions. Basically the throttle is fighting every tiny deviation in speed. That over-excited TPS is also constantly triggering accel enrichment so you are probably burning more fuel than it should be too. Try halving your existing cruise proportional gain. I think Integral and derivate probably are ok but please set the "PID setup" to cruise control before the next log so we have some better data.

Many thanks, have finally got some noise from the engine from the G4+, now to adjust the tune.

Yes Adam, finally I get the same solution importing "Link Genric Dash" file in ADU. It works , still have some value to link correctly but i'll check better in these days. tks bye

Car is tuned, everything working bar rpm gauge, its series 2 jzx110 2002-2004, originally auto, but manual converted, I sacrificed a/c ;( , still has standard coils yes

https://flooritgarage.ca/blogs/news/link-razor-pdm-decoder Thought I would share here if anyone else would find this valuable. I have installed a few Razor pdm's and am being sent back logs to review and assess, and was struggling to quickly know what outputs are active or in fault. The ECU logs the statuses of each PDM as a decimal value, derived from a binary value where each digit is a status output. So I created a Google sheet that you can take the decimal value from a log and quickly see which output is in an active state. If someone knows an easier way to do this, I'm all ears. Also hoping a version of this gets built into the G5 software in a future update.

The attached will be a reasonable starting point. Enter your injector settings, correct engine size, check base timing and all sensor calibrations. 4AGE Boosted Modelled single throttle Monsoon.pclx

I would also check voltage on pin 45 during cranking, if this drops below about 7.5V the ECCS relay can drop out.

Ahh yes I forgot about not having the choice. Thanks a lot @Adamw!!

okay thank you

All ECU power grounds should go to the same location on the engine, usually on RBs that's at the front of the intake manifold.

Sorry yes, 2 & 4 to D22. I have corrected my original post. The distributor has reluctor sensors so you dont have a choice of the edge in the software.

I thought most JZ engines have the tacho connected to the ignitor. Does it still have the stock ignitor and coils?

so from the header should i run each ground to its own location or can i use a batt neg. stud i have on the firewall?

Thanks Adam. Latest log and tune attached: https://drive.google.com/file/d/16MhOtrrQnJ1GM8GoN_fnRY8yJJ07MMGt/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/18rv9MHV4kP9CgmubLSF_khE6ufJfqoWS/view?usp=sharing Admittedly since my first post I'd made some PID changes to my eThrottle and when creating the log today, it was performing better. Near the end of the cruise control activation my step downs were a little harsher than the first few but overall an improvement I think. Keen to hear whether you think the log looks normal/acceptable.

At the end, found out the fuel pump is half dead. It runs but not giving enough flow up to the fuel rail. Changed to a new one and works again. What a bad day for having crank sensor and fuel pump dead at the same time.

Hi. I need help, i need base map to start my engine. 7age 20v blacktop Single throttle body tps evo3 Coil on plug Link Monsoon G4X Bosch 1000cc injector Elixir 500lph fuel pump

logs and scope won't show me anything, if you left the wire in then ECU still running after removing your ground pin will be because the ignition switch input would have been active pulling that pin to ground. In terms of ground issues make sure that the ECU power grounds on the engine are securely bolted to an unpainted surface