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Voltages don't seem low enough to turn the ECU off but it definitely sounds like you have an ECU grounding issue if the ECU earths are 1v higher than the chassis. Can you also see if the blue lights on the ECU PCB turn off when cranking? Also if that was done with coils and injectors unplugged then it may be even worse with those connected

Try again but leave the Mode set to Off instead of User Defined. And don't forget to click apply or Ok between each attempt, might even be worth storing and power cycling between each attempt.

The Imo pin has single wire serial communications on it and we found under our testing with a key start 86 and a push start BRZ that you don't need to do anything on that pin to have the immobiliser light not show up. In terms of utilising the factory immobiliser you would need to decode how that serial communication works. There is no antitheft signal setup in the Link CAN

I tried running my 3sgte and another 3sgte on the stock sensor and it saturates the input (aka knock control becomes useless after a certain rpm and MAP). Swap to a Bosch donut for more reliable and useful knock signal. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/xrf/gshp/products_id/4518?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuJ2xBhA3EiwAMVjkVNdLZLrzikQx3wQzBTUnt02IC3R80bi5IamVGhI2KTR8Z4DgRlankRoC5_4QAvD_BwE I wired it to the single knock signal wire and then to the stud for ground. Maybe not perfect, but seems to read well, and consistent.

Hey Vaughn this is what I came up with 49 grounded to frame key on is 13v then drops to 9.48 while cranking 49 to 10 cranking is 8.75 49 to 20 8.87 49 to 107 8.72 49 to 108 8.68 49 to 116 8.63

I've been looking into setting up knock control on my MR2, but figured that this must have been done many times before, so.. Could anyone recommend decent settings for use with the stock Toyota knock sensor setup? (Not just the filter setting, but a generic starting point for the rest as well, I mean). Not sure if I'm worthless at searching, or if people aren't using knock control with the stock sensor. The suggested filter settings table says something like "3SGTE with aftermarket Bosch sensor".

Gear is usually calculated based on a speed signal and rpm set up in a table. That may not work as well on an automatic, but if you have a speed signal there should be some type of setup that could be done.

I was wondering can I use the 8v a6 pin to power a m54 hall effect cam sensor, or should I use switched 12v? Also can someone please guide me on the sensor pinout? I seen a pinout sheet on another forums it showed + , U, - What does the U mean?

Hi, anyone had an issue where rpm gauge not working on standard cluster ? Car is tuned everything working just not rpm. Jzx110 with Altezza Link G4x ecu

I've run NTK L2H2 sensors with other ecus/controllers at 3" from turbo exit and they have lasted more than a decade this way. They tend to be a brick house by comparison with LSU sensors in my opinion.

im assuming its the immobilizer signal as its part of the keyless entry system

@Laminar & @jdniss Thanks for clarification on the MeatPI products. Leaves only the firmware concerns with my GTTLink (NGTT+), which @Adamw can may be comment on?

What is the "imo wire from car"? Do you have a wiring diagram showing that wire or a description of its function from the factory service manual?

i turned it off, since i couldn't get it working, its been w while since i messed with it, about finished wit the car so just trying to sort out the last few things, i am trying to use the factory system,,

Chassis and Body > Anti Theft has no digital input configured as the anti-theft input and "Allow CAN Anti-Theft request" is also turned off. Are you going from a generic switch that you installed? If you're running an existing factory Toyota wire to a Link DI, it would have to be a simple 12V/gnd signal that permits startup when the immobilizer is satisfied, which isn't how the factory system works.

latest drive.pclx

Post your tune. You can message the user here to see if he's willing to share his CAN data:

Post up a copy of the tune, a log of starting, and capture a trigger log (click Capture while you're already cranking to capture a full 720 degrees rotation). Injector timing should be negligible for startup. Insert a high tension lead between your COP output and the spark plug and put your timing light on that lead. Timing lights that use the low voltage inputs to the coils don't always give you an accurate trigger.

wire in xtreme g4x in to my 16frs with k24, and ide like to get the immobilizer working, i have imo wire from car going to a digital input, but wasnt able to make it function, car still starts without non chipped key, so im not sure what els that it needs, is the immo sent through CAN as well ? im also looking to get CAN set up to get dash/ac working, any info to share would be appreciated

Pin 1 and 2 to D22? Not Pin 2 and 4?. And what would be the trigger edge in the software, Rising? So in Summary its Distributor PIN 2 & 4 = DTM PIN 1 Distributor PIN 5 = DTM PIN 3 Distributor PIN 6 = DTM PIN 2 Distributor PIN 9 = DTM PIN 4 Correct me if I'm wrong

Done. I've setup as shown in the attached screenshot. Tried 1M, 500k, 250k. All has same results -- connects with no data received followed by disconnect.

That Link 500K worked like a charm, thank you!

The "noise" on the scope is normal, this is artificial noise caused by a combination of the 8bit resolution and aliasing due to the sample rate. I see the same "noise" even with a clean computer generated signal on the bench sometimes. The exhaust cam sensors are pretty prone to failing on modified evo's, so if you haven't tried that and still have the other car available you should try swapping that as a test. But apart from that I would still be concentrating on ignition system noise.

The log shows the idle valve is fully closed. So either the throttle is too far open, the stepper is not homing correctly, or it is losing position, so the ecu only thinks it is fully closed, but it is actually not. I would expect to see idle position around at least 20% open when hot. I would change the integral gain to 0.5 as 1.25 is possibly forcing it to move faster than it can actually move. Your idle ignition proportional gain is also very high at 15, typical is 1.0.

That would be fine. Connect dizzy pin 1&2 to D22 which I assume is the black wire. Distributor pin 5 to the grey, distributor pin 6 to the blue.