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  2. The car was originally tuned with a g4 ecu then it got stolen from me. I had a g3 laying around so I decided to wire that in. Then I upgrade the g3 firmware then load my original g4 map in it.
  3. Today
  4. Sorry for the late reply and thank you for coming back to me. Can you outline the benefits of going to VE from traditional? I don't currently plan on running flex fuel, which is what I gather the main advantage would be? I had a fiddle and the fuel map seems to keep the profile from the traditional map, is this typically correct or will the VE map profile likely be quite different- I appreciate thats a subjective question, but generally speaking does it following the same sort of shape? Is there anything else to consider when deciding whether to use traditional or VE?
  5. Hello tuners and Link.......... After setting up the Advanced Launch Control tuning parameters on my Subaru, I came up with the following picture to help me understand what's what! Not saying it's better than the Link help file, but it helped me! Feel free to criticise if I have misinterpreted anything!!
  6. I've done the tacho relay trick on quite a few cars over the years and never seen it cause any interference, so its a bit odd. There are not normally any special tricks required. Is the relay just a common automotive type with a coil of about 100Ohms? If you had a spare regular aux it might be worth a try connecting it to that - the flywheeling diode may quieten it down a bit. I have had some tachos that dont work when connected to a normal aux but work when connected to an ignition aux.
  7. Does your laptop have a separate microphone jack or is it some sort or shared audio port? In the windows sound panel, how many recording devices does it list?
  8. Adamw

    Crank Timing

    You can get a reasonably close 10deg mark on the pulley by measuring straight line distance from the TDC mark. Circumference of a circle is dia x Pi. If we divide the circumference by 36 then we will have the "length" from TDC to the 10deg mark.
  9. Adamw

    Repeating Fault Code 75

    The error accumulators are showing zero in all of your logs so no "smoking gun" yet. But the log with the adjusted PID does show more stable control so I would keep those changes for now.
  10. Adamw

    Link Force GDI

    Yes, the port below the USB tuning port is CAN 1 & RS232.
  11. Adamw

    Closed loop lambda

    As Tim's screenshot shows, the ECU is adding 15% fuel?
  12. Richard, that was spot on, I have just wired it up and now receiving data on my Dash. Many thanks
  13. Ducie54

    Closed loop lambda

    Your Calibration table is out. Use Cal table 7 so you can set the voltage axis
  14. Ducie54

    Closed loop lambda

    Looks like the wide band signal freezes. What type of wide band are you using?
  15. Tim D

    Closed loop lambda

    As far as I can see, the ECU is trying to add fuel, but I'm not sure what's making it go lean?
  16. Ducie54

    Closed loop lambda

    Never mind didn't see the other link
  17. gtihk

    Closed loop lambda

    I have a question regarding closed loop fuel. In the log attached, at around 6000 rpm, Lambda aim is 0.88, Lambda 1 is 0.992, yet the ECU is pullinCIVIC RUN1.llgg 12% fuel. Why does it do that? Honda Civic 92-95 G4+ Xtreme Plugin V2.0.pclr
  18. gtihk

    Link Force GDI

    Anyone please confirm where CAN 1 is connected please? I can see CAN 2 on connector B. Could CAN 1 be on the Port below the USB tuning port?
  19. Grab us a PC Log file too chief.
  20. gtihk

    CAN Lambda

    I used the same sensor with a conventional Lambda controller. The sensor seems OK.
  21. Nettlez

    Crank Timing

    Yeah it has a tdc so 0 degrees mark so I have marked that underneath onto the sump and wheel so I can see it with the light when it’s running. So I was trying to figure out how to mark 10 degrees on the wheel so I can make that mark on the wheel too so I could check it with it running rather than just cranking?
  22. Great writeup! I really wish I could see the pictures though
  23. How close is your relay to the usb cable? also, does the usb cable run parallel to the tacho wire for a long distance before or after the relay? High frequency switching can cause a bit of EMF interference, which is quite likely to propagate along the tacho wire. If wires run parallel, intereference can jump between them - ie from the tacho wire to your USB cable. I'd try moving the laptop/usb cabling away from the rest of the wiring first. Failing that, try getting a usb cable with a ferrite choke on it (the inch long metal blocks around the cable near one or both ends)
  24. cj

    Crank Timing

    your trigger 1 settings have to match what is actually on your crank. If you have 60-2 (58) teeth and you configure it for 12-1, it will think its running at 5x its real RPM, and will be firing injectors and ignition all over the show. It would be a very bad thing. To set base timing, all you need is to know the crank and cam trigger patterns (60-2 for crank), and whatever the cam tooth count is. You also need a timing mark on the crank and mark to match it on the block - likely somewhere between 0 and 15* BTDC. You need to check the manual or somehow find out what number of degrees your timing mark is at. Then you disable spark+injectors, put that number of degrees into the first field in trigger1 calibration screen, and crank away while adjusting the offset. Only way any engine can be a "pain" to set is if the timing marks are in an awkard place to see them, or if there are no marks on the crank. In either of those scenarios, i'd set the engine to TDC or the 10/15 deg mark, and make a new mark on the crank and block in a more reasonable position.
  25. Yesterday
  26. ozyvr4

    Laptop com port error

    Fantastic. I am going using windows 7. Ill uninstal and load previous version. Thanks.
  27. Nettlez

    Crank Timing

    Just a quick one, so I have just got the car together with its new engine but it’s not running right, hunting on idle and stalling when the revs drop. It’s got a 3.0 crank (was a 2.8) and 1.5mm over bore making it’s a 3.15l, exhaust cam on the intake. So I want to check the base timing but I seem to remember it being a bit of a pain to do a zero. So it’s a Bmw m50nv engine and the crank settings are 60 missing 2, so does this mean that each divot on the wheel equates to 6 degrees? So an easier number to used could be 12 so two divots before?
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