All Activity

Nearly ready for a first start and checking over things, my trigger pattern is inconsitent. G4x plugin set to V5-6 pattern. The pattern is what I was expecting to see, 2,1 on the crank and 3,1,2,1 on the cam, but the peaks are all over the place. The noise on the trigger 2 between spikes is also concerning. What could be the cause? Secondly, should i be seeing these turn green when cranking? I get no errors. Thanks. Trigger Scope - uneven.llgx

Fixed with a wired in 1k on AN Volt 2. Thanks.

Lambda controller setup is irrelivant to making the engine run or not. I was only telling you the lambda set up was wrong because you were complaining it was reading wrong further up.

If you have both then I would make use of them, its only 2 or 3 extra wires. With no cam sensor you cant do sequential fuel or any individual cylinder fuel or ignition trims. Knock control only on pairs of cylinders.

For the solo2DL set the ECU stream in RS3 to Link CAN BUS BASE. The CAN bus should be a trunk of twisted pair with any stub off the main trunk kept short. You can do it like this: Or I often find a "daisy chain" type variation easier so there is effectively no stub at all, something like this:

I have a Mazda ZL engine im currently setting up the wiring for. It has a Crank and cam sensor but I was going to just use the crank sensor as its got wasted spark. Am I missing out on anything by doing this? Also do I need to shield any of the ignition wires going to the coils?

Thanks Adam, that's even better than I'd planned. The decreasing RPM's could make a thief think that they're running out of fuel, and not look for an immobiliser. If the relay/fuse box wasn't already maxxed out, I could even wire a relay so the fuel gauge drops to empty when the immobiliser is activated. Could you please confirm a few things for me regarding the older G4 Link capabilities before I finalise and begin installing the wiring loom. I've been playing with PC Link G4 (not connected to the ECU), and some of the set-up is quite a bit different to the G4X. 1. I want to use Aux3 for the CEL light, but also want it to be the Oil Pressure light (switched by the Link). I know it's possible on a G4X, but can I do this with the G4, presumably using a Virtual Aux for the Oil Pressure, and have it output a constant ground on Aux3 when oil pressure is low? 2. I have a switch wired to DI1 to turn on the radiator fan manually, in addition to the Link controlling the fan. The car has a Line Locker which I want to wire to DI2, and have the Link turn the radiator fan on when the Line Locker is engaged. So 12V on DI1 turns the fan on, or 12V on DI2 also turns the fan on, and fan is also temp controlled. Is this possible? Looking at PC Link G4 it appears to have 3 Virtual Aux Outputs, and I'm worried about having too many overlapping/conflicting inputs and outputs (kill switch, oil pressure/CEL, fan switch, linelock-fan switch). 3. I planned on wiring and configuring Temp 1 as ECT, Temp 2 as IAT, and AN Volt 4 as Oil Temp with a pull-up resistor. However the car has an aftermarket CAN digital display, and I just read this thread on the G4+: I prefer to wire tuning related sensors like IAT to dedicated AN Temp inputs. Should I continue wiring as planned, or should I swap Oil Temp and IAT inputs to make it easier to display the Oil Temp on the digital display? Does it matter either way? Thanks.

They are not really useful for logging, they just tell you whether a signal is present or not.

Have set up Can Lambda from ECU controls Did a quick test to see if the engine would fire but no luck +, What am I missing?

Yeah I worked that out, Another quick question. What is the best rate to run the Trigger 1 and 2 at for logging (crank and cam sensor)

I'm using the Can Lambda, Not sure why it's showing not connected. I'll check the connections

Ok, thanks for clearing that up. I just tried with the configurable generic dash stream but it also seemed to make all the other outputs go crazy so its a bit out of my league to alter that. I assume its because the dash wants to see various signals on particular streams and frames I have attached the tune file and if you could assist with having it output the GP temp as oil temp that would be hugely appreciated. mike gordon downloaded tune.pclr

the more the merrier

I think I found the TP2 sub harness damaged. I repaired it, I will circle back to confirm that was the problem (I hate threads that never have a solution) Thank you !

Why do you want to increase frequency?

any idea how to set it up?

Just the standard 8mm ID. Only running stock power at the moment so plenty big enough + return flow test comes out good.

what fuel line do you have between pump and fuel rail? is there any chance it's too small to support the flow without pressure drop?

I noticed that too while looking around. That gives me a little more peace of mind. I’ll have to look at my scope logs from a few years back when I was developing my own engine sim/pot board. It’s been long enough that I don’t remember which way the zero crossings went.

Just a small update to this. Spent some time today testing the alternator and then the fuel pump again. Once again I can't find anything wrong lol... Fuel Pump Scope - Amps up from cruising @ 6A to 8A @ on a power run. As you can see, the voltage doesn't budge. https://ibb.co/y4s2SkH Next is the alternator on a power run. Again, all looks fine. Voltage doesn't dip whatsoever.. https://ibb.co/bLBRSH3 Still clueless as to what is causing this. Will try to figure out why ECU is seeing a voltage dip. I've checked the obvious areas and continuity/voltage drop and run a new earth to the ECU so not sure where to look next but will try.

Posting the log and latest tune will be helpful. Depending on your control mode, the ECU will increase injector pulsewidth when fuel pressure drops to try and still get the right amount of fuel into the engine. Why is the fuel pressure nosediving?

Something's not right with this car. It cuts fuel and shakes the crap out still while at the track. No errors, temperatures seem fine, how could the injectors be at 160-196% duty while there's no fuel pressure? I suspect the tune is not right, do these parameters look right? I have the log file if needed.

Thanks Vaughn. The Powertune is connected and functioning, at a basic level at least. The Solo will be 50-60cm off the Link-Powertune bus, and I have so far been unable to find any AiM documentation for Solo-LinkG4x, looks like there may be for earlier Links, or maybe the AiM site is out of date - I will follow-up with the local AiM distributor next week. Is that distance (50-60cm) a deal-breaker? I note the two CAN channels, is that simply a software thing and they both use the one physical set of wires? Or are they wires separately? The next step will be to download my tune, which I will do over the weekend. Thanks again for your assistance! Ed

Ok, the same to wire the injectors?? Then use the mode multi point group injection? Thank you

Ok, got it, thanks