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  2. Hey guys! I've been running this all week and it's not too bad, some things need tweaks and boost/ AFR in boost needs some work but IMO it's a pretty safe and workable map so i'll leave it here incase someone else wants a starting point for the GTX/GTR(GTX might need additional changes IDK) Specs(standard unless otherwise stated): MAF delete 7 Bar MAP sensor Link IAT1-8 air temp sensor AEM X-series wideband UEGO controller 30-310 Boost maxes out at 16PSI Shouldn't make a huge difference but should be taken into consideration when tuning: Hybrid VJ23 turbo cone filter upgraded intercooler decat 323GTR.pclx
  3. Today
  4. Thanks Adam, The ABS isisue is solved. It works now however the AC is still frozen up. Any idea?
  5. Hello Everyone, Firstly apologies if there's similar thread to one I've created. I am noob to the standalone ECU tuning and I have also been going through some of the lessons in the HP Academy. I hope to get a grasp of setup ideas and help from each and everyone. I am rebuilding my slightly modified 2019 Subaru WRX STI that I had entrusted with my youngest brother for a year, only to find that he had been driving around spiritedly without servicing for the entire duration. Long story short, I've had the car back for 2 weeks with 26,324kms and have noted ringland failure, compression loss and some other hiccup surprises, so I've decided to rebuild the vehicle, supported the Link G4X P&P ECU with some of the accessories due in 10 working days. Can you advise if these items are adequate in the revival of my vehicle: Link G4X PnP (WRXLink 11) - is there any special setup for immobilizer / keyless start? Link CANJST4 Cable Link CAN - Lambda Sensor - can or will this replace the factory O2 sensor on the downpipe? Link MAP 5 Bar Sensor - is the best install ref point on the fuel pressure regulator? Link Coolant/Oil Temp Sensor - since I have my existing Defi system, can I tap into that for ref? Link XS Expansion Loom Link KnockLink Kit - will this be best to replace / override the factory knock sensor if any? Bosch IAT sensor (with data sheets) - will figure out wiring. Bosch Combined sensor (temp / pressure) - will figure out wiring. Would it be better to run a stand alone boost controller, or would it be better to run a 4 port electronic boost controller from link? The incoming parts for my vehicle will be: IAG 950 Closed Deck Short Block GSC 272 Cams with springs and retainers Roger Clark Motor Sport Rotated Turbo (G30-770) Fuel Upgrade: Walbro 470lph / Fuel Pump FIC 1000cc Injectors / Fueling Components Process West Intake Manifold & TGV Delete Honestly, at some point I'll probably get an experienced tuner to help me out with tune refinements, but I'd appreciate any help I can get from the community with setup recommendation and/or calibration. Thanks in advance IG Handle: @thunderous_mofo
  6. So ive got the kit installed trigger set to TDC it runs on two cylinders but it would be nice to have all 4 any ideas?
  7. Thank you, this worked perfect. Someone on another forum whipped up the attached calculator, and I was able to get a perfect calibration for AIM's 2k pullup resistor. https://willwaldron.com/voltage_divider_calculator/sensorvoltage.html
  8. Doig

    J1939 Racepak IQ3

    Yes it is written correctly, it's a older discontinued item, all I can find is it works with j1939 standard and 250 k/bits speed. Even if I just get engine speed, Temps And pressure working would be something. There's no setup in the dash until it see's something correct on the CAN bus
  9. Yesterday
  10. Note the Motec PDM has very limited CAN functionality, it was originally designed to only send receive on/off type data and can only process a maximum of 8 bit values so things like RPM cant be used. What would the PDM need RPM and ECT for? Typically you would just send things such as fuel pump or fan request.
  11. That is actually an electronic throttle unless someone has modified it. The cable drives the APS sensor, then the motor drives the actual throttle blade. The cable does move the throttle blade somewhat as a "limp home" function, but you wont get full throttle without the motor driving it - unless it has been modified to be fully mechanical.
  12. Adamw

    J1939 Racepak IQ3

    So is the adapter not a VM-EFIUCAN? Google doesnt give me any hits for 230-VM-EFICAN without the "U". The problem with J1939 is the "CAN ID" is made up of several different chunks of info. Some of these "chunks" are standardised, and/or can be guessed - for example we could guess that the racepak is expecting Engine RPM from Engine #1, not Engine #2... but then the rest of the ID is made up of things like message priority and what type of device is sending the data, so generally some of these variables that the device is expecting are specified in the documentation for the device.
  13. What does Lambda 1 status say? Would need to see a log, there is no fault code "Aux 9/10". There are 2 fault codes related to aux 9/10, code 71 occurs if the aux9/10 supply voltage drops below 7V, or code 74 occurs if the e-throttle relay turns off. There are a few other fault codes that only occur during a TP calibration process if it doesnt succeed. If you mean when using the "find devices" tool, this is only for programming CAN Lambda's, it will not find any 3rd party devices.
  14. Is PC Link installed in the default C:\Link G4+ location? This is mostly because you didnt set the idle ign MAP lockout like I said. If you still have a start up oscillation after fixing the MPA lockout and the base position mentioned below then you need to lower the idle gain more. The undershoot and some of your oscillation above is due to the incorrect base position, you need to tune this table. At 30°C your log shows that the throttle needs to be open 4.5% to achieve the target speed, but you only have 1.0 in your E-throttle target +2.5 base position. The sluggish transient is from two factors, the easy one to fix is the idle speed control lockout is set at 1.5%, this means the ecu will hold the engine back until the pedal is above 1.5%, a lockout of 0.5% would be more typical. The more complicated issue is your accel fuel settings are way too aggressive, you have like 80% extra fuel being dumped in with the slightest throttle movement when cold and in some places ~14% accel fuel being added just at steady state idle. The deadband set to zero and the very high sensitivity is the main issue, but your load correction is also a little odd. Unfortunately if it has been tuned with the accel fuel working like this it probably means the fuel tune will need a fair bit of adjustment once you change to more normal accel enrichment. Copy the accel settings out of the R53 mini base map would be a better starting point for an e-throttle engine.
  15. If the lambda is reporting something close to accurate - .499 is VERY rich. If you want to keep it on traditional mode then you should start by dropping the master fuel down quite a bit if you're definitely running rich - it's 16 right now so maybe try 8-10 and see if that helps. If you can take some pictures of the injectors or find any kind of part number on them, maybe someone on here might recognize them and be able to help you figure out what they are.
  16. Doig

    J1939 Racepak IQ3

    Hey I am trying to send CAN data to a racepak IQ3 display dash using J1939 standard as i have a 230-VM-EFICAN adapter. I want to send Engine speed, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, TPS, Vehicle Speed, Intake temp, ignition timing and injector duty if possible. I have tried contacting Holley and others about the IQ3 information but they are less than helpful. I know J1939 is a bit of a pain but it already has this interface so worth having a go with i thought.
  17. Thanks for the reply. I'll go through the AI's and have a look, and also look at the predefined ones Cheers
  18. @Adamw Thank You! I implemented the parameter changes you suggested (without the MAP Lockout as the car idled good in the past between 30 and 38 KPa and never got above 40) , which were nearly perfect for Warmup and operating temperature idling. I still have the cold start issue though. Some things i noticed after going after what you said were, 1) I couldn't update to the latest firmware, got an error which said couldn't find path for a backup file or that sort of thing (sorry as i didn't screenshot it). 2) Still dealing with Cold Start RPM oscillation for the first 10 seconds of startup, it's like the car is "Rotational Idling" for a while after startup then RPM stabilizes. 3) Giving the engine a light fast throttle blip at idle feels a bit sluggish or lazy to wakeup, after lifting off pedal the RPM goes down to around 600 and very slowly picks up to 700-750. I'll attach the tune and a log file recorded after the changes you suggested . your input is very much appreciated Mr. @Adamw Thank you. Tune after changes.pclr Log after changes.llg
  19. I am not able to access the file, may be you have enabled privacy for it?
  20. I'm not sure if the app tells you, but there's at most a dozen Analogue inputs, it would have taken less time to look through them all than it would have taken to ask this question Don't forget that there's a number of built-in calibrations, you may not need to use a custom calibration.
  21. Hi, I want to add an oil pressure sensor into the ECU and can use a spare 0-5V input. When I choose this, I can then use use a CAL table for setting up the scaling. How do I know if that CAL table is already is use for another analogue input Cheers
  22. Purchased SKU 101-0197 the instructions aren't clear on CAN HI or LOW i tried switching the pins between DIG 9 and 10 wanted to run the can 2 path. The CAN status in run time values is all green i assume I've got that right but in run time values check lambda 1 and temp is 00 is that normal? When calibrating the e-throttle i get a fault code aux9/10 when doing the pedal, it calibrates fine and then i clear the code and it operates fine, any thoughts on that? I tried adding my dash 3 times updated all firmware and still can't get it to come up in can set up, the lambda gets recognized, but the dash doesn't. Any Tricks I'm missing? Can the MATH channels for the dash get afr, odometer added for the dash? "C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Base Maps\config 17th march.pclr" "C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\XTreme working.zconfig" SKU CANSS 101-0210 is what im trying to make work and wire into dig 9/10
  23. Well, it's worth a try I guess. Not sure the failure rate on these? Any experience of them? No chance it could be the alternator at high load/rpm? I've only managed to test it at stationary revved up to 5k. One thing I haven't done is look at the waveform it puts out but I suspect it would be ok at idle and high revs and maybe only show an issue when under load + high revs... Only the ECU is seeing the voltage drop but the pump isn't. Wondering what this current draw is that it's seeing. Would the voltage drop at the ECU cause issues? Picoscope all seems to verify pump is working correctly. I can post that here if helpful?
  24. Will do Adam but I have no coolant in it at the moment, so it will not be at NOT.
  25. Attach a log and the latest tune and I can look at the other stuff.
  26. I would say mostly it is the idle control gains too high. Try these changes in orange: I would also give the idle ignition control more authority as E-throttle is too slow to compensate for sudden changes in RPM/Torque. Something like this would be more typical: I would also increase the idle control MAP lockout to about 65Kpa and update to the latest firmware as 5.6.8 had several CL idle improvements. There may still be other factors contributing but they will be easier to see when the big oscillation is gone.
  27. I would be throwing another fuel pump at the car. Thanks
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