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  2. If the lambda is reporting something close to accurate - .499 is VERY rich. If you want to keep it on traditional mode then you should start by dropping the master fuel down quite a bit if you're definitely running rich - it's 16 right now so maybe try 8-10 and see if that helps. If you can take some pictures of the injectors or find any kind of part number on them, maybe someone on here might recognize them and be able to help you figure out what they are.
  3. Today
  4. Doig

    J1939 Racepak IQ3

    Hey I am trying to send CAN data to a racepak IQ3 display dash using J1939 standard as i have a 230-VM-EFICAN adapter. I want to send Engine speed, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, TPS, Vehicle Speed, Intake temp, ignition timing and injector duty if possible. I have tried contacting Holley and others about the IQ3 information but they are less than helpful. I know J1939 is a bit of a pain but it already has this interface so worth having a go with i thought.
  5. Thanks for the reply. I'll go through the AI's and have a look, and also look at the predefined ones Cheers
  6. @Adamw Thank You! I implemented the parameter changes you suggested (without the MAP Lockout as the car idled good in the past between 30 and 38 KPa and never got above 40) , which were nearly perfect for Warmup and operating temperature idling. I still have the cold start issue though. Some things i noticed after going after what you said were, 1) I couldn't update to the latest firmware, got an error which said couldn't find path for a backup file or that sort of thing (sorry as i didn't screenshot it). 2) Still dealing with Cold Start RPM oscillation for the first 10 seconds of startup, it's like the car is "Rotational Idling" for a while after startup then RPM stabilizes. 3) Giving the engine a light fast throttle blip at idle feels a bit sluggish or lazy to wakeup, after lifting off pedal the RPM goes down to around 600 and very slowly picks up to 700-750. I'll attach the tune and a log file recorded after the changes you suggested . your input is very much appreciated Mr. @Adamw Thank you. Tune after changes.pclr Log after changes.llg
  7. I am not able to access the file, may be you have enabled privacy for it?
  8. I'm not sure if the app tells you, but there's at most a dozen Analogue inputs, it would have taken less time to look through them all than it would have taken to ask this question Don't forget that there's a number of built-in calibrations, you may not need to use a custom calibration.
  9. Hi, I want to add an oil pressure sensor into the ECU and can use a spare 0-5V input. When I choose this, I can then use use a CAL table for setting up the scaling. How do I know if that CAL table is already is use for another analogue input Cheers
  10. Purchased SKU 101-0197 the instructions aren't clear on CAN HI or LOW i tried switching the pins between DIG 9 and 10 wanted to run the can 2 path. The CAN status in run time values is all green i assume I've got that right but in run time values check lambda 1 and temp is 00 is that normal? When calibrating the e-throttle i get a fault code aux9/10 when doing the pedal, it calibrates fine and then i clear the code and it operates fine, any thoughts on that? I tried adding my dash 3 times updated all firmware and still can't get it to come up in can set up, the lambda gets recognized, but the dash doesn't. Any Tricks I'm missing? Can the MATH channels for the dash get afr, odometer added for the dash? "C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\Base Maps\config 17th march.pclr" "C:\Users\danie\OneDrive\LINK\XTreme working.zconfig" SKU CANSS 101-0210 is what im trying to make work and wire into dig 9/10
  11. Well, it's worth a try I guess. Not sure the failure rate on these? Any experience of them? No chance it could be the alternator at high load/rpm? I've only managed to test it at stationary revved up to 5k. One thing I haven't done is look at the waveform it puts out but I suspect it would be ok at idle and high revs and maybe only show an issue when under load + high revs... Only the ECU is seeing the voltage drop but the pump isn't. Wondering what this current draw is that it's seeing. Would the voltage drop at the ECU cause issues? Picoscope all seems to verify pump is working correctly. I can post that here if helpful?
  12. Will do Adam but I have no coolant in it at the moment, so it will not be at NOT.
  13. Attach a log and the latest tune and I can look at the other stuff.
  14. I would say mostly it is the idle control gains too high. Try these changes in orange: I would also give the idle ignition control more authority as E-throttle is too slow to compensate for sudden changes in RPM/Torque. Something like this would be more typical: I would also increase the idle control MAP lockout to about 65Kpa and update to the latest firmware as 5.6.8 had several CL idle improvements. There may still be other factors contributing but they will be easier to see when the big oscillation is gone.
  15. I would be throwing another fuel pump at the car. Thanks
  16. Thanks Laminar, I hadn't actually filled in all of the throttle table over 3000rpm because I wanted the revs to stay low until I proved a few things on a new motor. It's now much 'tamer' to work with. I ramped it up to 1:1 at 50% pedal.
  17. Deklan

    r34 not starting

    Was a bad ground near the radiator water hose on the plenum. The wires fell out at the slightest touch, so recrimped them and good to go. Thanks
  18. Deklan

    r34 not starting

    Hey guys, having trouble with my r34 not starting. Used to start well, however when it was hot it wouldnt start unless jump started. I moved the battery to the boot, bought a bigger correctly sized battery for it etc. Found a blown fuse and replaced it as well, which gave me some success. However a week on from then, it now doesnt start at all. Battery has been on charge and is full, i have checked voltage at lots of pins which stays above 9-10v while cranking. My issues appears to be, that ignition and injectors will turn on and off while its cranking, not allowing it to start. I believe its allowed me to do a log while cranking so ill attach it below. running a nz wirng trigger kit also, which seems to make start up take a while longer when everything is working as it should, unsure if this is an issue or not as well. Thanks PC Datalog - 2024-03-28 12;30;19 pm.llgx
  19. Yesterday
  20. Changed the transmit ID to that of the motec pdm and fixed the ect start position. LINK PCL5 REV.1.pcl5
  21. Yea I have the AEM wideband wired properly I don’t know why it’s reading like that honestly and no the injectors are not stock I have no idea what size the are unfortunately but it does just seem like a fuel issue because when turning fuel off and cranking it( to test ignition and clear out some of that delicious fuel in them cylinders) it starts and revs for a short while before dying (obviously). So since I don’t know the injectors size and my brand new somewhat expensive wideband is not widebanding properly do I have to guess the proper fuel size? Also a little more information the larger injectors were installed because the supercharger made the car run lean with the cold air intake with inner cooler so before i started this the car ran a little rich especially at idle.
  22. Vaughan

    350z g4x plugin

    Your E-Throttle is jamming shut, in the 2nd log you do a blip and when it goes to shut the throttle it overshoots and goes all the way to 0% where it stays. A lower minimum clamp would reducer how hard it closes it but I would say you need to visually inspect your throttle to see why it is staying jammed shut even when you are trying to open it as hard as possible.
  23. I will load up that dead time table tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks In the mean time I have been doing some reading, part of my issue looks like it could be my walbro 255 pump over powering the stock regulator in the tank. A guy on the miata forum was seeing pressures of 80psi at idle and it would fluctuate too. Would explain why my afr’s never stay stable. Will look in to buying a return style set up with fuel pressure/temp sensor
  24. Thanks. Yeah, I'm going to step into it most likely. My temporary engine is going in soon and it's jdm so there is no CKF. Plan is to get up and running with the distributor so I can get up and running. Only item I am missing right now for this phase is a CAN-Lambda but I'm kind of holding out for a brand new MoTeC LTC that's slated for the scrap pile at work. For step 2 I will need to build a new ecu side loom or rework my current OBD2B one a bit to add in the extra features. Step 3 will be the rebuilt engine going back in. At this point I can decide what I want to use to trigger. Two channel Honed kit would be the easy button, it can be readily subbed in for the distributor since all of the connections needed are already there in the disto plug. CKF will aslo be present (2-pin B-series VR style), only a pin move at the ecu side should be necessary to get it working. Mostly I've just been looking for someone who has used the CKF successfully (or not and can explain), as I've only ever heard anecdotally that it won't, but haven't ever had the opportunity to try it myself and understand why. I love this stuff.... should be fun!
  25. A bit of a follow up. You were correct in that the trigger wheel was bent. After swapping it we now see a better trigger scope and zero error counts.
  26. I was just hoping for a tune with your deadtime changes, maybe something would stick out as far as why it was sitting at an odd value. If you go Injector Setup > Deadtime Table > 3D Table, you can open the injector dead time table and right click > Import from File and import the file attached to my last post.
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