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  2. Next will be to unplug any additional sensors using the 5V and see if still an issue
  3. Up the frequency to 13kHz. Also check the cylinder gains, start at 1 and adjust to balance.
  4. Good day. My name is Artem and I'm part of the team currently building 2JZ-GTE powered drift car in Russia. One of the problems we encountered after setting up and rolling road tuning the engine management is noticeable throttle delay from 0 point. Bacically when the driver pushes the pedal, initial response is somewhat delayed. The car is being used for drifting, and it causes problems. Most likely there is something we are getting wrong with setting up the e-throttle system. The hardware we are using is: Bosch Motorsport 68mm e-throttle body Penny&Giles hall type accelerator position sensor on a Tilton pedal assembly with dedicated linkage. What do you recommend to do and at which parameters to look at to reduce this delay?
  5. Today
  6. Thanks for the reply! I may considering upgrading, but since the ecu is so old I’m more leaning towards getting a new one. To get the dash working, maybe I can use the rs232 protocol instead?
  7. Pointz

    Knock detection

    How accurately/Well does the ca18det knock sensor detect knock via link g4+? I do have a phormula ks3 that I was going to hook up but ideally wanted to use the oem position but this won't work and there are no other suitable locations on the block.
  8. If I don’t put throttle to floor I gain my lost boost so I need up the wastegate duty at 100% settings
  9. sorted it
  10. Since I noticed with increase in hot temp I have lost approx 0.2bar of boost level in closed boost mode on both settings hi and low boost Using stage 2 set up with stage 1 to get it up to spool and stage 2 kicks in at 40kpa before target value any tips guys
  11. so now it starts and drives. Do you have the skills and equipment to tune it? if not, now you take it to a tuner. If you hook up the lambda input to the ECU and you are careful & methodical you can probably tune the fuelling side of it on the street. You will need to get reasonably familar with how the fuelling tables work though (read the help file or look at some of the HPAcademy courses).
  12. Awesome!!! changed it to 7ms and it now runs sweet, idle was around 400-500rpm so raised this via the iacv or can i raise it in pclink? idle afr is around 15.5 on afr although i will connect the wideband to the ecu today so i can log it. went up the road gently and have made a log if anyone gets a chance to check it for any issues id be most grateful Log 4.llg
  13. Thanks for the reply, I'll have a look and see what it is. I connected a code reader and checked the values of the torque sensor when turning the wheel from cold and they were within spec. I didn't think to get the multimeter out. The odd thing is that when I had the stock 1jz ecu connected to engine it doesn't do it. I will investigate. I'm just thinking the only other thing that's different now is I've removed the jz maf sensor. That's pushed the air filter back a few inches so it's not sat over the pas ecu anymore.
  14. What about master fuel trim? Leave this at 0%
  15. Just change it to 7 and see what happens. There is an explanation on the fuelling calculations in the help file. Short version, that 7ms means that if you had 100 in a fuel table cell at 100kpa, you would get 7ms. if you changed the table value to 50 you would get 3.5ms (50% x 100%(kpa) x 7ms). If you had a fuel table cell at 50kpa with a 100 value you would also get 3.5ms. And at 50kpa and a fuel table value of 50 you would get ~1.7ms (0.5 * 0.5 * 7ms) [edit] if you have a lambda gauge, what value is on it when its struggling to idle like that? is it something like 10:0 (0.65 ish lambda)?
  16. You dont need to calculate it, just adjust the number up or down it until it runs better or the AFR gauge shows something in the ball park of normal.
  17. The G3 needs a small hardware mod and a firmware upgrade to enable the CAN bus, I believe the hardware modification is a free service if you return it to Link. Otherwise if you are capable of basic SMT soldering you can contact Link tech support and they will give you instructions to enable you to do it yourself. It will also need the firmware upgrade to G4, this upgrade has a cost as you need to purchase an upgrade code. It was about NZD$230 last I heard. It is quite a nice upgrade though, it gives you quite a bit more functionality over the G3 firmware. Closed loop boost, onboard data logging. Much better G4 tuning software. Quick tune, many more configurable options for inputs/outputs and 2D/3D tables.
  18. I honestly have no idea how to calculate this! At the moment I have master fuel set at 10ms And master fuel trim set at 0%
  19. That is pretty typical. Heat soak affects many other factors besides air temp such as hot injectors, hot fuel rail etc. Usually to take care of this you would set up the IAT trim table as a 3D table with either Engine running time on one axis. You can then add a little extra fuel at high IAT for the first 40seconds or so of running. You also want a IAT sensor that has a reasonable response time and is exposed to the air stream well.
  20. We are talking about the commanded injector PW from the ecu, not the short pulse width adder table. If you are using traditional fuel equation you will notice there is no setting in the ecu for the injector flow rate, the overall amount of fuel being injected is taken care of by adjusting the master fuel number.
  21. I have an aem wideband bit haven't set it up in pc link yet. The pulse width is copied from the Id table?
  22. According to the rx8 manual, the criteria & wiring for that code are independent of the ECU It also says you should have 15 Ohms from a-b and b-c terminals of the torque sensor. Maybe its got a bad connection somewhere and it comes right once there is a bit of heat around?
  23. Put me down for one vote towards bad idle stepper controller and base idle set screw incorrectly set.
  24. cj

    Decelerating problem

    What you are looking for is "overrun fuel cut" in the fuel menu. It would be slightly weird for it to only cut in below 2500rpm though. Can you please post your log & map? Best bet you have one of the idle control systems kicking in at 2500 and its trying to drag rpm down to idle level very quickly.
  25. Do you have DCCD in the new gearbox + a control unit for it in the car? As @wastegate said there is no 5v pwm output from the ABS computer in this model, neither is there a canbus output like in the newer ones. Your options as I see them are: 1) swap the ABS controller for a newer model with canbus output, or maybe an early 2000's legacy which I think has a speedo out signal wire. You will need to do a lot of research before doing this, and if you have DCCD, it expects to see passthrough of the ABS wheel sensor signals into the DCCD. Finding an abs computer that has DCCD outputs and doesnt require some other canbus input to keep it happy would be possible but quite tricky. 2) install a speed sensor in the gearbox as suggested above. There are a few posts on NASIOC and other forums on how to do this as it was kind of popular a while back to get 6speeds into pre-canbus cars. It requires drilling and tapping holes into the gearbox, and I think it requires a tone ring to be installed onto one of the shafts in the gearbox. Its not a simple tasks and requires removing the gearbox. 3) get one of the frequency reducing boxes out there (various posts on here to build them for <$20 or dakota digital & a few other places sell ready to go models), tee into the ABS->DCCD wiring for 1 or more of the wheel speed sensors, and make sure you leave the original wiring in place so DCCD still works. Run this tee'd signal into the frequnecy reduction box and output into a DI on the ECU. This gives you speed in the ECU. Then configure one of the aux outputs 1-4 as speedo out (set source to the DI you are receiving it on). connect this to the dash input that used to come from the gearbox so your dash has working speedo. (make sure you disconnect the old dash output->ecu input wire at the ecu)
  26. cj

    Help setting up temp sensor

    1 wire to a sensor ground, the other to an AN Temp input then set up a calibration from that table they have provided.
  27. can you post you map & a log file of it trying to idle? If you disconnected the idle control valve and its still fluctuating there are still half a dozen things in the config that could be causing it do this.
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