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Showing most liked content since 01/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    'Save All' logs

    Would this be at all possible? Instead of having to save each individually?
  2. 2 points
    Clint, Thanks for your advice, the new Lambda sensor did the trick, Lambda is spot on again! Great service from BHP too.
  3. 2 points

    Gti-R Base Map G4+

    You have to hit enter after changing them
  4. 1 point
    I was wondering if it would be possible to add PWM table functionality to virtual auxiliary outputs? I would like to utilize them for pressure differential measurement so I can have basically a single output value that can be used on one axis of an ethrottle table or any other table for that matter. Alternatively 4D mapping on the ethrottle tables would also work equally as well. Blaine Carmena Carmena Performance
  5. 1 point

    EJ207 Subaru WRX 2011 Engine RPM problem

    We are expecting the falling edge on cam teeth to be just to the left of the "gaps" on the crank. Then as the cams advance that cam edge moves further to the left of the gap. Since his signal is inverted his falling edge actually starts off on the right hand side of the gap, and as the cam advances it crosses over to the other side of that gap. I would say this is when it gets all upset. Changing to the rising edge will put the trigger points back to the correct side of the gap where we designed them to work. A bit of rounding at the top or bottom a square wave is usually not a drama, the actual trigger point that the ecu uses is at a level of about 1.0 or 1.5V depending or if its rising or falling (cant remember which is which). So provided the edge looks relatively vertical around the 1.0V mark you are usually good. Andpdas, I should have also mentioned if you change the edge to rising and the engine will no longer start you may have to try adding or subtracting 360deg from your current trigger offset.
  6. 1 point
    This can happen if the mixture is very rich or the sensor is failing, remove the lambda from the exhaust check the sensor for fouling and see if its the same in free air. Try and new sensor.
  7. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Unable to connect?

    comms port normally has an orange oring around it
  8. 1 point

    External map sensor

    What sensor do you have or what is the calibration values?. I will give you a screenshot once we have that info
  9. 1 point

    Can I adjust speedo?

    Its a function in the ECU. On the Digital input there is a calibration figure. Adjusting this allows for different wheel sizes. A Digital Input may be connected to an electronic wheel speed or vehicle speed sensor (typically located near the output of the gearbox, or as an output from the vehicle dash board) to enable speed to be calculated. These Digital Inputs can then be used to configure the Driven and Non-Driven Speed Sources. The Calibration number allows the ECU to calculate speed in km/h. Note: In some cases erratic speed signals can occur due to unusual speed signal shapes. Changing from Rising Edge to Falling Edge or vice versa may help with this problem. This problem usually presents as random spikes of increased speed. Set-up Procedure: The Calibration number is the number of pulses received over a 100 m distance. Method 1: Drive the vehicle at a known speed and adjust the calibration number until the Vehicle Speed Runtime Value displays correct. Method 2: Wheel Speed Sensors Only. Calibration Number = (Number of Sensor Teeth / Wheel Diameter) * 31.83. Note that wheel diameter is in meters (m). Typical values for speed calibration numbers range from about 170 to 280. The maximum frequency the digital input can accept is 500 Hz. Note: Wheel Speeds can be checked in the Runtime Values Digital Inputs tab
  10. 1 point

    Can I adjust speedo?

    Yes, provided your speedo is electronic and you connect it to the ecu, then you can adjust it. You need to connect the speedo to aux 1-8, assign the aux to "speedo out". You will then get these settings:
  11. 1 point

    Graphic Table Comparison

    + 1 Was surprised it didn't already do this.
  12. 1 point

    coil on plug conversion

    Sorry I missed your earlier post. You can set the dwell table to have whatever you want on the axes. If the V7 base map has the setup you want to run then just open that map, right click on the dwell table, select import/export>export to clipboard. Then open your map, go to dwell table, right click, select import/export>import from clipboard. Store before shutting down.
  13. 1 point

    AEM EPM trigger G4+ PNP Coil on plug

    Your screen shot above on the Feb 1 post shows you have trig 1 set to reluctor, the AEM EPM is hall as far as I know. So set both trig 1 and 2 to optical/hall, turn on the pullup resistor. Make sure trig 2 sync mode is set to cam pulse 1X. If you still get no RPM then post a triggerscope.
  14. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    CLL fuel correction %

    G4+ has a very similar function called quick tune that is with key F10
  15. 1 point
    We use the ESR 10 Series, we also found they are so fast that you can double them up if you need more amps and they shut down if over current so if one fails no issue, we have not had one fail yet.
  16. 1 point
    They work fine wired in the normal manner if you connect to an ignition aux rather than a normal aux.
  17. 1 point

    Toyota Oil Pressure Sender

    https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00NWZ3TUI looks like the sort of thing a lot of welding or gas supplies stores would have. Or order one from amazon/ebay.
  18. 1 point

    G4+ monsoon

    We run Monsoons as a Piggy Back ECU leaving the OE ECU in the car and then take control of engine functions with the Monsoon. Talk to the dealer who said they can do it as to their method, piggy back solutions work can very well.
  19. 1 point

    MAF Sensor setting

    Hi guys, In the next update, I want the MAF table to be able to use cal 7 - 10. If possible, please increase the number of grids in the table from 16 to 32. regards,
  20. 1 point
    Ok thats starting to look better, the main issue now seems to be that you have very poor vacuum, do you have a leak, or is the MAP sensor reading incorrectly ?
  21. 1 point

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Adamw - you continue to answer all my questions with a crazy depth of knowledge and experience. I feel like I more owe you a carton than a beer at this point... You are a serious asset to the company! You obviously know this stuff backwards to pick up that I somehow managed to mix up my findings for the SAS and Evap/Purge systems. My bad on bamboozling things. This is probably not the best thing to be doing at midnight after working 12 hours... To clarify on the SAS - I said Pin 5 on there because on every loom diagram I can find online and in the electrical manual shows Pin 5 having the SAS and Pin 4 as having no function connected to it. With that said, I have been looking exclusively at JDM 8MR diagrams. It is quite possibly one of those ones that hops around. Either way, not a system I will be making use of anytime soon. In relation to the purge solenoid (which allegedly resides on Pin 16), I am indeed a little confused so it would sound mixed up (Pin 16) - My understanding is that this is a separate unit that allows air/fuel vapor to pass through some channel from the fuel tank to a charcoal canister and then into the intake manifold for emissions compliance. Again, glad its not something to worry about. On both of of those systems, my largest concern was the presence controls that you guys may have had hard-coded into the ECU that was not something "transferable" to the Thunder. I totally appreciate that one of these units is basically useless and the other one is for rally. With the Alternator wiring, thats fantastic information! Some day in the future I hope to put this car will be in the 5 digit RPM limiter club. I will make an assumption that adding an extra 3000RPM to the alternator would move it out of its intended operating range and could cause some high voltages. This may be a tool to combat this if it happens. Just like the rest of it, its nice to know its there, but more-so that I dont have to worry about it. For the relay wiring response you get 11/10. Just what I needed to know. The eThrottle info is valuable too as that is a future plan (because Evos need cruise control too...) Will post a build thread when everything is finished. If it goes even half to plan, I think it will inspire at least a couple of other people to follow suit. Very exciting to be able to continue with the project without concerns. Cheers!
  22. 1 point
    race jase

    trigger issue Rotax 4-tec

    Mattias i messaged you back mate.
  23. 1 point
    Set it to RPM/Speed mode. Set detection type to user defined (since you already have the ratio numbers in your old map). Copy ratio numbers into the ratio table. Check there is a driven wheel speed source assigned under >chassis and body>speed sources. That should be all it needs. If it still doesnt work then attach a copy of the map.
  24. 1 point

    [UPDATE] PCLink Released

    Hi Hans, I believe Mapper's question was referring to the comments he found in this post here: Although there are improvements planned for E-throttle ISC in the future, for most users the existing functionality works perfectly fine and there are no show-stopping issues. We sell many plugin ECU's for E-throttle cars and have very few reports of poor idle control, when there have been it is usually just tuning related.
  25. 1 point

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Sounds like you have this a bit mixed up? Pin 4 is the SAS and it is connected to Ign 6. It would typically only be used for some rally antilag setups so thats why you dont see it in the base map. Our diagram shows the purge valve is connected to pin 16, but in our plugin ECU we dont control that at all. Our plug-in doesnt have anything connected to these pins, they are not really needed. I believe the Factory ECU grounds the "G pin" at wide open throttle to turn the alternator off. You can connect that to an aux out if you wish. Without it connected it will just charge all the time. Connect Thunder "Ign Sw " pin to Evo pin 99 (ignition switch). Connect Thunder "Main relay +" to Evo pin 57. Connect Thunder "Main relay -" to any ground. ECU +14V can connect to Evo pins 59 & 47. You may also need to add a separate relay for "+14V Aux9/10" power supply if you are fitting E-throttle.
  26. 1 point

    Ecu to pdm via can

    Yes you can do this a couple of different ways. One option is; In the ECU you still assign the function you want to an auxiliary output - lets say as an example we set up engine cooling fan on Aux output 1. You dont physically connect any wires to aux 1. You then use the "A1 (status)" parameter to send to your PDM over CAN. The Aux status parameters are sent as follows: 0 = OFF, 1 = OFF, 2 = ON, 3 = FAULT. You can use the Multiplier/divider/offset to scale that into numbers that your PDM wants. For instance if your PDM wants 0=off, 1=on, then you use an offset of -1 to get that. Heres an example: An alternative option is very similar to option 1 but use a Virtual auxiliary rather than a real auxiliary - this allows you to keep the real auxiliary output free for doing other stuff (you only have a max of 8 virtual auxiliaries however). Set up the virtual auxiliary just like you would set up the normal auxiliary, then send parameter "VA1 (Status)" to the PDM. Here is an example for a Virtual aux set to fuel pump. (note the ECU will still handle the normal fuel pump prime logic etc):
  27. 1 point
    Short answer: All injectors take an amount of time to open (and close) that needs to be known, this is commonly somewhere between 0.7 and 1ms at 14v. So so from a fast injector to a slow injector that’s 0.4ms difference. At idle when you may only have a 2ms plulse for ideal idle that 0.4v is 20% but higher up the Rev range it’s far less so will affect ARF much less. you should be able to maintain the same AFR no matter what the battery voltage, and that’s the reason your idle is bad your AFR is dropping into plug fouling territory.
  28. 1 point
    You are quite rich there, have you tried tuning the table a little, I am assuming your on petrol/gasoline as your have 14.7 as Stoich, your dropping close to the 11's I would be surprised if your plugs are not black and misfiring. I also see that the main change in the map is injector deadtime, this looks very wrong as the idea is that as the battery voltage drops the speed of the injector changes and requires more opening time to keep the same AFR, however as soon as your deadtime changes you get dumped into 0.7 Lambda. I would change the deadtime so 12, 13, 14 & 15 volts are the same at say 0.7ms (doesnt matter for now if this is correct) then I would tune the map so you are targeting nearer 0.95 Lambda, then as the voltage drops trim the deadtime map so Lambda stays the same as when you tuned it.
  29. 1 point

    1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    I haver found correctly mapped VVTI can make a lot of difference. Glad you got to the bottom of the issue.
  30. 1 point
    Ok, idle valve operation is looking reasonable now. A little more AC step is needed. We will also bump proportional, and add anti stall. Proportional can possibly go higher than I show below to speed up response but try these settings first. You can also try the idle ignition settings below.
  31. 1 point

    1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    Ok then they need to check they have it set to the correct AUX out, one side of the solenoid should have 14v and the other side should goto the Pin on the ECU that corresponds with the AUX output that is configured in the Link ECU. What ECU do you have ? All the outputs are short circuit protected and very rarely fail (I have never seen a failure) so I would think this is definitely a configuration issue rather than a hardware issue, however you can always move the VVT to one of the other AUX (needs to be AUX1 - AUX4) out to check if the driver has failed. BUT please get them to press F12 with the engine running and scroll to the right and select VVT and send you a picture of the screen so you can post it here.
  32. 1 point

    1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    A simple test anyone can do is with the engine stopped run an Aux out test on the valve and you will hear it click, if it does click then there is probably a mechanical issue with the engine; If it does not click then you have an ECU/Wiring issue. A more in depth test is to press F12 with the engine running and look at the actual VVT Data, which should show actual angles if the settings are correct.
  33. 1 point
    A couple of extra tips for the MTX-L... Connect the innovate yellow wire to any spare Link analog input. The MTX doesnt have a dedicated analog ground so this will often cause a large and variable ground offset if grounded to the wrong location. The Innovate manual suggests grounding to the negative battery post but I would suggest the engine block instead. The "innovate LC1" calibration in the PCLink software is the correct one to choose (MTX is the same).
  34. 1 point
    I personally would leave the idle ignition disabled for now until you get the idle valve working reasonably well - otherwise it can mask problems with the idle valve tuning. That is why I didnt ask you to change the RPM lockout originally. The stalling is caused when fan #1 turns on, this is because your Fan#2 settings are wrong so that the ECU has already applied the "fan step" at 80°C, long before Fan 1 turns on. (I also note you have no fan set to turn on with AC but we will leave that for now). Try changing all red values again as per the screenshot below. Leave idle ign off for now and do another log.
  35. 1 point
    Look at Ignition - Idle Ignition Control its the lockout there we are talking about. You can add Idle ignition Control to your logging view to watch when this becomes active.
  36. 1 point
    You are not getting into idle ignition control as your have it set for below 700rpm, change this to something like 1500 for now. I would, turn off or unplug you ISCV and then set the idle screw on your throttle so it can idle. Then set your idle ignition up, currently you have it set to enable below 700rpm, I would raise this to 1500rpm then tweak the table, it is not uncommon to have zero degrees in the centre (0) and then negative degrees towards the left hand side, but all cars are different so you will need to tweak this, once you can rev the engine and it falls back quickly to the centre (0) Then you can turn on your ISCV back on and set that up, but even with just idle ignition control it should be fairly stable.
  37. 1 point
    You can not only use it for data logging but auto tune function too. Use the 0-5v output from the innovate and put that on a free AnVolt input on the Link. Set this input to Lambda, there is a Innovative LM1 Calibration in the drop down list but check the calibration has not changed by comparing the Innovative LM1 manual with your MTX-L manual. If it has changed then choose one of the simple cal tables, as the innovate has a linear output and set the calibration according to the innovate manual.
  38. 1 point
    The ecu is not entering idle control or idle ignition control because the base position table is commanding the valve open too far so the engine settles above the RPM lockout. Change all the settings in red below to match this example. It will likely still not work correctly but hopefully will be getting closer and we may get some more useful data from a log. Do another log for us with these settings.
  39. 1 point

    Landrover 3.9 V8 with Atom

    Hi mitch8198 , i used to run RV8 in my off road comp truck , they are a good engine but if you are going anywhere near water you will need to ditch the dizzy , my truck used to run under water , we used a 36-1 on the crank and fired the injectors in 4 blocks of 2 . As Adam said the BMW 2 wire is a good and cheap option , as are the GM map sensors. It will be the best thing you can do to the motor for reliable off roading..
  40. 1 point

    Landrover 3.9 V8 with Atom

    The Bosch idle valves found on BMW's and many other european cars are very convenient with simple hose type connections. You can get 2 and 3 wire versions but 2 wire would be the preferable one since you dont have too many spare aux outputs on the Atom. Expensive new but good value 2nd hand and rarely give any trouble. For the MAP sensor I cant think of too many good examples off the top of my head. Many 90's toyotas have them or the GM/delphi 1Bar might be options.
  41. 1 point
    Oh hey! Havent been up to much with the car lately... I moved to the South Island to take a job in the motorsports industry, so funnily enough I actually ended up moving right near that track shown on the post above. It was awesome down there, but some life complications meant I needed to come back. Some interesting stuff has happened between now and the last time I posted though I guess... Firstly I had the windscreen smash which was fun! Then I competed through the time atttack series which was good fun, cut a little bit short by me moving away. But I was determined to make my "Street class" car as streetable as possible... Drove it to-from events and even used the car for camping near the events. At one of the events I had one of the outer injectors in my staged injection setup fail - due to a rusty fuel tank and blocked up fuel filter which obviously let some debris through. So I had to roadside retune the car back to primary injectors only, then set a new fastest lap once the engine was running right. Since then I switched to a Seimens 850cc "shorty" injector, this gives me more clearance to the bonnet which was needed. I made up some MSpaint style stickers for the numbers that I needed for the race series, also at the event furthest from home (about 6-7 hours drive) I ended up having the front universal joint in my driveshaft explode which sucked! Ended up getting towed all of the way home by some friends who unloaded their car off the trailer so I could get home. Which was much appreciated. On the ECU side of things, I've got a few changes to plan coming up. I have just been working through populating the table to run my tacho as a combined tacho and fuel economy meter, using virtual aux conditions to switch between them automatically depending on what the car is doing. So currently I am thinking that when RPM is between 2000 and 4000, rate of acceleration below (something) and speed is above say 60kph the tacho switches over to the fuel economy meter. I dont see a way to achieve this apart from wiring two auxiliary outputs to the same tacho input, and switching between them using virtual aux. But I've got some left over so that's fine. I also want to setup something using CAN, I have been meaning to double check the accuracy of my analog wideband input so I might kill two birds with one stone and buy the link Can wideband module some time soon. I've got a lot of DIs left over so will be looking at setting up wheel speed sensors as well, it will be interesting to see how much my LSD is slipping or locking under different circumstances. It will be interesting to have a play with the traction control system when this is setup, not that a car with this power level particularly needs it. Might come in handy on wet trackdays though! I saw a cool idea where someone was using a K type thermocouple dragging against a brake disc to measure brake temperatures. I've been meaning to get some temperature paint or similar to find out how hot the front gets, as I wear out brake pads quite quickly. So for sake of interest I might do something similar while I'm setting up wheel speed sensors. Or maybe even a K type just sitting against the brake pad, I guess that's really what you're trying to measure and prevent from overheating. It might also be fun to setup 4x EGT or 4x wideband, one for each runner but would look at doing this with a CAN based solution. Apart from that not much else going on, just driving the car and enjoying it. I like having the car NA and fairly simple but realistically for the time attack stuff I've been doing this means my car is mid pack at best. It's heeaapppss of fun though, with some great people and I still wince at the extra engine bay complication of forced induction. As the whole point of this car is to keep things simple. I have been having some thoughts lately about starting a new build using maybe a Suzuki cappucino or a Honda Beat. Just because they are awesome, and I like the gimmick of tiny cars. Both options will most likely be slower than my existing car haha. Maybe a Toyota MR-S or similar would be a more sensible starting point. (Or just go on holidays to Fiji etc instead and enjoy the car I've got!)
  42. 1 point

    Electronic throttle body

    Further to Simon's comment, you can also use E-throttle for idle control and dont need a separate idle valve. You can presently have up to 3 E-throttle target tables, so to give an example you could have one for normal driving, one for when antilag is activated (which doesnt allow throttle to close beyond 15%) and another for say highway cruising that has a nicer response curve at small throttle openings.