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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  2. 1 point

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    Hey everyone, I know you've been hanging out for this one. PCLink Version 5.6.6 3564 (DLL rev 3544) 15/08/2018 New Features Right Mouse Click on a time plot to add a marker or section. File Directory tab in Options window lets the user specify a folder to always load from/save to Hinged axis titles in Surface View. Locked Surface view (similar to old surface view behaviour) Chinese language added coming soon Spanish language added also coming soon Changes Some lists have had their default layout changed (alphabetical still works) Minor improvements to the Logging Setup window. Minor improvements to parameter selection. Improved b marker drawing on the time plot. Changed how parameter colours are named (see Parameter Menu and Setting up a Dial Gauges Runtime Values for details). Improved consistency of keyboard shortcut keys across PCLink. Searching CAN Parameters now takes into account transmit/receive filter. Fixes Fixed few bugs with saving log files and holding F8 key. Fixed bug in Aux Output where Diff Fuel Pressure was not triggering correctly. Fixed bug with compare file and cell colours not changing. Fixed bug where PCLink would crash if the computer (laptop) was put to sleep. Fixed Cal tables 1-3 from wrapping around when output table start is set to a -ve number. FP Speed Table now resizes correctly when double clicked. DI14 now displays wheel speed label properly. Imperial units in table axis setup improved. Surface Graph fixed for Nvidia graphics chipsets. G4+ Firmware Version – 15/08/2018 New Features Added trigger modes for LS2 with moved cam sensor, Rover K series with CAM sync, Nissan VQ35HR and Mitsubishi Colt 4g15. Added Astra CAN mode. Added Single-Point Every TDC Injection Mode to activate all injectors on every TDC for throttle body injection kits. Added CAN stream for Link AIM MXS Strada Dash. Changes Added 3D tables option to Closed Loop Lambda FTrim Limit. Added options to GPOutputs. Added Cruise Control power toggle switch mode. Fixes Remove unused settings from Kurofune and Monsoon. CLL dual channel mode now controls the second bank. AFR average is now averaged correctly. Add 3D Secondary Injection Deadtime table. Fuel Pump FP table now interpolates correctly. Knock Control High RPM lockout has been increased. Gear Status can now be written from CAN input. Fuel pump mode “80Hz 33/66/100 %DC” now reports duty cycle correctly. Cylinders 9-12 now trigger injectors when configured as Semi-Sequential Injection. Solenoid Idle Speed Control now shows status correctly. Stepper Idle Speed Control now stops at the Minimum Clamp. As always, make sure you save your basemap, do the firmware update, load your basemap, then do a compare to check changes. https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Post any issues you have here, rather than starting new threads, or my favourite, at the bottom of a completely unrelated thread.
  3. 1 point

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    they're listed in the help file with the new version
  4. 1 point

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    It is up now
  5. 1 point

    CAN DI issue

    I suspect simply because we have not yet come across a car that has a CAN bus starter request. Your idea with the Aux connected to a DI is really the only work-around at present if it must be via CAN.
  6. 1 point
    Yep thats the one
  7. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  8. 1 point


    you will have no problem maxing out the VF37 with the stock engine, it can take that turbo no problem with a proper tune.
  9. 1 point


    Quite simple, bad tuning can destroy even the best engine in a matter of seconds.
  10. 1 point

    AIM MXS Strada Alarm setup

    Yep that will do what you want. The LED will flash the code and the fault code number will be displayed on the dash.
  11. 1 point
    Many devices have configurable bit rate. The Link CAN Lambda can do 100, 125, 250, 500k & 1M so it should work with nearly any other device. The 14point7 one I believe will be configurable bit rate. The AEM X-series is not configurable as it was originally only designed to work on their "AEMNet". Emtron (HV Electronics) is configurable, Motec is configurable, Ecotrons is not. I believe that is possibly bad wording to not give away his source. I believe they come from an OEM application, they have all the correct markings on them and none of the signs of the typical clones. They have a longer cable on them than the common aftermarket LSU4.9. I have installed probably 10 of his Spartan 1 & 2's over the last few years and have not had one fail or play up. The Lambdatronic LT4 is their highend one, the retail is around $4000. They have a more consumer level device, the LT2, for about $1000. https://www.streamlineautomotive.com.au/lamdatronic-lt4-lambda-to-can-module Really, it seems like you may be over thinking things. Any of them mentioned in this post will do a fine job. The Link one will give you a few more fail-safes in terms of CLL control if you intend to run CLL full time and possibly longer sensor life due to the more correct heating strategy. The 14point7 one duplicates our CAN Lambda stream so that will have the same fail-safe functionality. The AEM one is faster than all others I have used but will not disable CLL when there is a sensor error and there may be a possibility of shorter sensor life depending on who you believe. I know a couple of professional tuners here and in Australia that use the Ecotrons ALM as their main tuning tool and rave about how good they are and I have never heard a bad thing about them so they seem good. I know Innovate have a CAN bus one coming out soon (LC3) but I would avoid that at all costs based on experience with their previous products.
  12. 1 point
    Another thing to consider if your using the Can (as i found out the hard way ) is the data rate for communication , its not often listed in the specs but critical if your using more than 1 devise AEM X series is 500kb Link CAN Lambda is 1000 I have a mounted but unused AEM if you need one
  13. 1 point
    I will give some comments. The Link CAN Lambda was designed specifically to work with our ECU, it has bi-directional communication so not only is data received from the device but the ECU also sends data to it. This allows the proper warm-up strategy to be applied during start up, EMAP compensation can be applied correctly for situations where there is back pressure and if a sensor is reporting an error condition the ecu can disable CLL or in the case of multiple sensors, ignore the failed one from "lambda average" calculations. The stuff like temperature, heater voltage, etc are mostly only used for diagnostics. Most of the 3rd party devices will have no receive - they only transmit data so they dont know if the engine is running or how long it has been running for to apply the correct warm-up strategy (potentially shorter sensor life). Many of the 3rd party devices will send some sort of error or status message but in many cases it is not in the format that our ecu needs it to be able to do stuff like disable CLL. In some cases you will be able to log these errors but unlikely act upon them. I have used a few of the X-series AEM's on budget installs and they have worked ok for me to date but I do hear/see some reports of short sensor life with them more often than others. To get the extreme response speed they certainly dont use a Bosch chipset or control the sensor in the way Bosch designed it to be so sensor life is possibly a side effect that. Some claim they are not using a genuine Bosch sensor either. Yes, an ecu controlled relay is a good idea. It still wont give the proper heat up strategy but it is better than nothing. No. Free-air cal is not particularly useful in my opinion, it was something made famous by Innovate as they didnt use the Bosch fitted calibration resistor. Air has about 21% O2, exhaust gas has none when less than 1 Lambda. So it only calibrates on the lean side of the curve and even then it is like trying to calibrate your precision 1volt voltmeter using a 2000V source... Ecotrons ones have a good reputation - I have never used one myself but only ever hear good comments about them. If you are not in a big hurry I know 14point7 are releasing a CAN bus "Spartan 3" soon, I tested a prototype a while ago. I use his analog ones for most of my budget installs and have very good success with them.
  14. 1 point


    why are you looking to swap? im in the opposite boat, looking to go from DBC to DBW! trade me your stuff! haha
  15. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

  16. 1 point

    Need Help turning on Car

    Are you 360 degrees out ?
  17. 1 point

    E46 m3 gauge cluster - shift light

    Yes, I have a pretty complete E46 M3 CAN setup. I will post it later when im at my pc.
  18. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

    You need to go to the set base timing screen and adjust the trigger offset until the timing light shows the same timing as the ecu setting "lock timing to". Make sure you hit the enter key when changing the offset. Yes, assuming the crankshaft is "even fire" and the firing order is set correctly in the software the TDC events will be automatically set.
  19. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

    Trigger 1 edge will need to be set to falling for that waveform you show above. You will notice there is a rising edge in the middle of the "missing teeth area" so rising edge will not work. Do us a new log after changing that.
  20. 1 point
    Change that to : Driven wheel speed source is set to: OFF Non driven wheel speed source is set to: LF Wheel Speed
  21. 1 point
    Under Chassis and Body what is your Speed Source set to ? If looking here does not solve your issue please upload map and log file.
  22. 1 point

    MBT blended fuel?

    i think is something around 104... but to be honest doesnt matter as alcohol cool everything they usually performe like higher octane fuels in some occations... you will not be octane limited to tune that car, we have 97ron pump gas here and I have tune 250whp 2.0 B series without problems reaching MBT, as the B series ussually you dont have really high CR as other engines (cause is very difficult to get more without modifien the combustion chamber on the head). 12 or 12.5 is ussually what you get from those engine and with massive cams to make the power you shouldnt run into problems with knock, be aware cause you never know but with methanol you are gonna be fine.
  23. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

    Hi guys, I'm based in the UK, send your basemap to tech@linkecu.com or attach it here.
  24. 1 point
    Ok, try these two files. 812776967_BenjiBarraFINALTUNE7PSI New CAN.pclr Benjis Barra Patrol With EGT's.zconfig
  25. 1 point

    Over run fuel cut clarification

    In this particular circumstance I have seen this happen before. The car is warm, sits powered off for some time, and while the water in the radiator cools down quickly (especially if you have the key on and therfore probably the fan running), the water in the engine absorbs the heat from the hot engine however. If your sensor is on the way "out" of the engine, what you see is immedaitely on cranking, the temp increases 4 or 5 deg as the hot water in the engine goes out past the sensor, then it drop by 10 or 20 as the cool water from the radiator makes it way through the engine to the ECT sensor. There are however some weird things going on the the confguration of the sensors... There are 2x coolant temp sensors defined, and both seem to be working (they are within a couple deg of each other but sometimes they diverge, so they are clearly not 2x signals from the same sensor) The Temp3 values align with ECT so it looks like temp4 is just being ignored, but having 2x sensors defined as the same things is asking for trouble. Same thing is configured for IAT - Temp1 is being used, and temp2 is being ignored. If these extras are just for logging you should define them as GP Temp and just label them, rather than telling the ECU you have 2x IAT's and 2x ECT sensors. There is something odd going on with the oil pressure sensor. It reads ~115 kpa with the engine off. Is this an absolute pressure sensor rather than a gauge sensor? if so, you should offset the calibration by 100kpa so it reads ~0 when the engine is off. Otherwise any safety's you set up will be wrong by ~100kpa. Is it the same type of sensor as the oil pressure, and its wired up but not installed in the fuel line? I think you have the same gauge vs absolute thing going on here too. 120kpa is a bit co-incidental of a value for it to stick on for no reason. If so, you need to do the same thing with offsetting the calibration. The reason you need to set up open loop before closed loop for most systems is that the closed loop logic is something like "use the open loop value, +/- a small correction based on feedback from sensors". If the open loop values are completely off, the "start" point for any closed loop control is way off and it may not be allowed to go that far away from baseline, and it will take some time to learn this "error" each time you start up (or return to idle for idle control) so it will run badly for a bit until it figures out what realistic values should be for the various control systems. The various "lockout" values only apply to the system they are set for. Idle lockouts control when the idle systems kick in. They have no bearing on other systems (ie overrun fuel cut). If you add the value "overrun fuel cut status" to a log view you can see when this kicks in. In your log about -5:00 you can see if coming on and off at the upper end of the idle range, but it is giving you the fuel back below ~1400rpm. Any stalling behaviour is caused by soemthing else as fuel isnt being cut below 1400rpm. I'm suspicsou you might have an intake leak. Your MAP is at ~95kpa at -2:30 in your log. I'm guess you have ITB's or huge cams but thats still very low vacuum. If you set it to open loop idle does it run OK? It seems off that the idle solenoid can be reporting 60% DC and yet you still only have 600rpm and bascially atmospheric MAP. Is the throttle screw on the TPS set correctly so you have a slightly low but passable idle with the idle solenoid disconnected?
  26. 1 point

    2003 MINI Cooper S GTS race car

    With a 11% pulley you'll probably pick up 10-15hp easy, You talking about the "461" Catcam? Down low it will make the same as a "469". Throttle is a good idea to restrict the air flow.
  27. 1 point

    tps signal disabled when car running

    It looks like you havent run a TPS calibration. Here is the voltage being seen by the TPS input in you "no tps" log. Its changing just fine, assuming you only went to 20% ish throrottle.Your TPS % reads 0 the whole time, but that is because the calibtration is off. It is currently set to 0% = 1.315v, so anything under this voltage shows as 0%. Your actual 0% voltage is around 0.48V so the first 1/3 or so of your TPS movement isnt showing up. Now here is the TPS% vs the AN volt3 input from your "yes tps" log. Notice that the TPS% doesnt move until you hit 1.3V or so, but the voltage itself (and the real TPS angle) has moved quite a lot already. Turn ignition on, then go to ECU Controls menu -> TPS calibrate. This should fix it up. Once you've run this, check that your TPS% angle registers all the way from 0% to 99%+ and that the percentages line up with how much you are actually pressing the throttle.
  28. 1 point

    Lambda 1 vs AEM wideband

    Yes, its there for that exact reason it will also mean that Lambda 1 is Stoic.
  29. 1 point

    2003 MINI Cooper S GTS race car

    Hi Alan, what power you trying to achieve? to get the torque up but keep the power low you could fit a camshaft with more lift and duration,then run a restrictor, This way you'll get more power and torque down low and stop it making loads up top.
  30. 1 point

    NEW FIC 1000cc Subaru SPW ad. table

    FIC has the data if you look at their GM EFI Live datasheet here: http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/efilive1000 But, this data does not look real to me, I would not trust it. If you graph it you will find it is just a straight line. You are probably better to leave it set at zero or go to a supplier that gives you real data.
  31. 1 point
    Joe Bucci

    EMAP (Exhaust Back Pressure) Sensor

    Here is an example of mine. Source is EGR port, which may skew the number from actual, but I don't have a way to source off the manifold of turbine housing right now. The far side of the canister will go to a braided line. The braided line will go to a firewall mounted pressure transducer. I suppose the transducer could be screwed directly into the canister.
  32. 1 point

    Link Can Wideband pclink reading

    0.9 Lambda is about 13.2AFR if you are running petrol. To change it to AFR go to >options>units>options. You can display AFR provided it is not multi-fuel (flex fuel).
  33. 1 point

    Problems With Impreza WRX 2000 GC8

    Your cam and crank signals are swapped, you need to change the dip switches to the alternative positions as per the note in the manual below:
  34. 1 point

    Spark plugs

    Difficult to see the plug looks old but there is a lot going on, the plug is to cold, the timing looks too advanced and the fueling looks ok, you say 11.3:1 but you haven't said what fuel you are using.
  35. 1 point

    Ecu hold power

    Thats not really the idea behind hold power. Its supposed to be so you can reset idle solenoids and the like back to zero position. Trying to use it to avoid something like this runs a big risk that if you crank it for too long, the hold power timer expires, and the ECU turns off while its still cranking and you probably wouldnt even notice. Better bet would be to re-wire your key output in this case so that the main relay is triggered by IGN1 key pos *and* by start key pos (ie run a wire from the key start position output to the main relay trigger). Are you sure your ignition circuit drops out entirely when key is at start pos? Ive heard of accessory power dropping out, and in some cases there are 2 IGN feeds off the key and 1 will drop out (for heater, aircon, wipers etc), but in most cases where people think they have this behaviour its actually just voltage drop due to the load being drawn by the starter.
  36. 1 point

    Tuning Considerations

    Attached is an ignition table from a BP engine I tuned. It had ITB's and higher compression but it will be safe for you. To use this, right click on your ignition table, >import/export>import from file. Ignition Table 1 (+ °BTDC, -- °ATDC).lte
  37. 1 point

    4age 20v + Atom

    For the coils themselves? here's the first good result from google, which lines up exactly with what Adam said. Sounds like you want the sequential option
  38. 1 point

    4age 20v + Atom

    So those coils have built-in ignitors. I havent used these coils before but the pic below found online. Pin 1 is the trigger wire as explained above. Pin 2 is ground which should ideally be connected to a clean point on the cylinder head (not manifold etc). Pin 3 is +12V, this should come from a relay that switches on and off with the ignition switch.
  39. 1 point

    4age 20v + Atom

    That will depend on what coils and ignitors etc. But it is pretty simple. The coil on #1 cyl trigger wire goes to ecu output ign 1. Cyl 2 goes to ign 2 etc.
  40. 1 point
    Hi. Any developments to use on Atom?
  41. 1 point

    Gdi spill valve energized +5v

    Do not worry for some reason they have chosen to show the drive circuit, your valve is a derivative of the Bosch HDP Series and the MSV valve is a current not voltage based device, you will need to wire it in accordance with the GDI manual and this is one we can control quite well.
  42. 1 point
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  43. 1 point
    Grant Baker

    Knock Sensor 10mm

    Thanks, I drilled a sensor today and tried it before and after. No difference at all when using a 10-8mm stud and 8mm hole, or using an M10 bolt and drilled sensor. Same knock levels, same background noise etc etc.
  44. 1 point

    Polishing the tune

    I have actually had some great success tuning with the CLL information for fine adjustment on my own car. So I use the car to drive around everyday creating a log and every now and then I grab that log of an evening and see where the CLL is making the most changes and I alter the map where it is adjusting the most, eventually you will get it down to the CLL only making tiny adjustments. This fine tuning is something that is normally not done as dyno time is expensive, it is sometime also parts of the map where its hard to get into on a dyno.
  45. 1 point

    CLL fuel correction %

    HI Adam is there a way to get mixture map to "add back" the correction that CLL has applied and is registered in the log and then apply to the fuel table? am leaving CLL on as cheap insurance but want to ensure I am as close as possible with the map. thanks Marc
  46. 1 point
    Jason, I would just use Cal4-6 and set them this way, Input Value A = 1.01 volts Output Value A = 15 kpa Input Value A = 4.45 volts Output Value A = 250 kpa
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