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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  2. 2 points

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  3. 2 points

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  4. 1 point

    Audi TT 1.8 20V Trigger errors

    Good to see you found the issue.
  5. 1 point
    Just enough to let the motor sit at a low idle with no load on it. It will be a case of trial and error.
  6. 1 point
    A typical situation would be that if the min clamp is to low, the ECU will be reducing the idle by lowering the DC. It will work fine down to say 30% but as you drop below 30% the valve starts to open again getting more open as you reduce the DC which causes the idle to increase and the ECU pulls even more. If the solenoid is full closed at 0% DC then there is no issue with a 0 clamp its only in cases where the valve starts to open at lower DC.
  7. 1 point

    Boost control. Under no load

    A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ? Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.
  8. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    12v PWM Output

    Aux 5 to 8 can high side drive to turn the pump on or off, although if you want to use a variable speed, and are using the Aux out as a GP PWM, 0% duty cycle will be 12 Volts and so turn your pump on and 100% duty cycle will output 0V and turn the pump off, just set your PWM table up with the temperature versus duty cycle axis upside down. HTH, Richard.
  9. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    CAN-Lambda Problem <Resolved>

    I have found that the CAN Lambda is quite sensitive to transient supply dropouts. The alternative wiring below is in the new CAN Lambda instructions and includes a 22µF capacitor in the supply to the unit. I have had several CAN lambda units that report faults and the addition of this capacitor has solved the problem every time. I think Link should update the online PDF file to make this the recommended setup, as the diagram below seem to only be included with the new CAN Lambda modules. (IMHO, the addition of the 22µF capacitor inside the CAN Lambda module would solve the problem long term). Regards, Richard.
  10. 1 point

    Tuning Considerations

    Yes, the same setting is available in two different places, you only need to adjust one and the other will change at the same time. It depends if you are using open loop or closed loop. If using open loop the base position table tells the idle valve how far open to be, the idle target table has no effect. In open loop mode the idle target table is only used for idle ignition control. In closed loop mode the base position table is the starting position that the idle valve jumps to when idle conditions are first met, then the closed loop control will take over and adjust the valve position further if needed to make the RPM match the idle target. The idea is the base position table can quickly get the idle valve somewhere close to where it needs to be then the closed loop only needs to make small corrections. There are instructions in the help file how to tune idle control. I suggest you start in open loop mode to build a good base position table. Follow this page in help: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control >Open Loop ISC. Are you seeing this drift when the "set base timing" screen is open (so timing is locked)? What ECU do you have?
  11. 1 point
    No, you want to log the parameter "Lambda 1". Just fix your cal table.
  12. 1 point
    This is not a valve I have seen before but I would expect with three wires it would have to be a solenoid valve. A Stepper usually needs 4 or 6 wires. Start with the min & max clamps set to 0 & 100% then set the clamps properly after you have tuned the base position table.
  13. 1 point

    Monsoon vs. Storm vs. Fury

  14. 1 point

    wastegate table axis

    Can i swap the boost target and rpm x and y axis around to take advantage of the additional length of the x axis, instructions say rpm must be x?, but i am not so sure Clarification, i am talking about the wastegate %DC active table
  15. 1 point

    help anti lag RB26DETT

    You are probably best to discuss this with your tuner. Antilag is not very practical for a road car, you will need non-vacuum assisted brakes etc. It sounds like possibly a tune issue to me, I would expect the S300 to be excessively laggy. Your tune file is password protected.
  16. 1 point
    No that looks about it.
  17. 1 point

    Boost trace log

    Take a log and capture these parameters (assuming you're running closed loop), it makes analysing and tweaking a piece of cake!
  18. 1 point

    Covert llg file to csv?

    Did you mean this...
  19. 1 point

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

  20. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    I've just started building a custom 1UZ VVTi loom and specced an ECU for a customer replacing the standard setup (in a Triumph Stag), and with an Xtreme we quickly ran out of aux outputs. The build is now going to use a Thunder. To run the standard engine functions as implemented on the LS400, it will take at least 12 Aux outs from my calculations:- VVT Bank 1 VVT Bank 2 Fuel Pump ACIS Tacho Ethrottle Relay Ethrottle + Ethrottle - Ethrottle Clutch (PWM 250Hz) Check Engine Light Oil Pressure Warning Light Fan (Viscous on LS400, but I like to add electric for any conversion) Adding Dual Lambda for both banks into the equation (and 3 axis accelerometer, high speed digital inputs, etc.) it quickly makes sense to go for a Thunder. Richard.
  21. 1 point

    isc operation

    The idle valve remains active at all times, this is normal otherwise you would feel it switch on/off during normal driving. With an NA engine you can have one side of the valve vented to atmosphere but in a turbo application the valve should be connected to the manifold on one side and the turbo pipework on the other so both sides of the valve are exposed to a similar pressure under boost.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks buddy I’ll give it a try and yea I’m wanting to get the link wideband as soon as I can afford to
  23. 1 point

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  24. 1 point

    FIC 1650cc Subaru Injectors

    I switched to these injectors because they're stainless and to handle a bigger turbo with E85. In case anyone else is looking to run them I got injector data (attached) from FIC. I combined this data with the custom flow data i got with the injectors and i've been very happy with how they've worked. Link ECU 1650cc.xlsx
  25. 0 points

    Car wont start

    hi all, ive recently completed a new build and can't get the car to start. Its a nissan 300zx with nismo 740cc injectors. I can crank the car but it wont start. One thing i noticed is that the green light on the ecu goes off and i loose connection to the ecu when i crank it. The battery is new, i have plenty of fuel but i'm not sure i get spark if the ecu is resetting each time. Any ideas ?