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Showing most liked content since 11/13/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    ''Laggy'' software

    At last, my graphics issues are fixed, despite having latest geforce drivers, it was the windows setting for text scaling, it needs to be 100%, not 125%.
  2. 2 points
    He is running 36-1 multitooth / missing then he needs to have only 1 home tooth. If he had been running with the stock 4 tooth wheel it would be okay in the "Ford Cosworth rs500" mode.
  3. 2 points

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  4. 2 points

    Wire schematic

    Hi To speed up wiring and diagnostic I would like to have a function that outputs a list, a schematic, and a picture of the connectors with all labels of all configured (assigned) in- and outputs. On top of that many smart things could be implemented like an auto updated complete wiring schematic in an easy understandable format(e.g MS Visio style). These things can speed up install time and wiring a lot, which sets barrier lower to switch to a standalone ECU. possible examples attached.
  5. 1 point

    06 wrx g4+ CL Lambda issue

    Would need to check the lambda average reading, The lambda target table will also need to be set up to suit.
  6. 1 point
    Your misfire is definitely due to the trigger error, in the log you can see there is a 100% ignition cut being applied every time there is a spike in the RPM trace. It would be nice to keep the 36-1 provided it is a reasonably well fitted trigger system and not something just hacked together and flimsy. So assuming that the 36-1 is well made then the best option will be to remove one of the "phase" teeth. I would say the Lambda is dropping out due to your battery voltage issue. Get the charging system working and report back.
  7. 1 point
    Our Multi tooth missing trigger pattern expects a single tooth on either the cam or crank. If there are two teeth it will try to reset the firing sequence at both teeth. You must only have a single tooth sync for that trigger mode to work. The Ford Duratec VTC is expecting 5 teeth on the cam not 2 so I would not expect it to be happy either.
  8. 1 point
    with a 36-1 crank the cam trigger will 100% need the second tooth removed. It does not mater which one is removed but it is best to use the tooth that is furthest away from the gap on the crank as it is not good to have a sync and the gap happening at the same time. Regards Simon
  9. 1 point
    Have you modified the Phase sensor "trigger wheel" This has 2 teeth stock. There must be only 1 tooth on this with your 36-1 wheel and cam sync setup.
  10. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    TT+ plug n play VAG 1.8T

    There is documentation in the help file for the AEM X series wideband units. They can be connected over CAN or via analogue inputs.
  11. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Advise needed on G4+ Plug In Ecu

    1) yes it can retard timing in the instance of knock once configured correctly. 2)Yes it has injector scaling and VE map 3)I would assume that the latency for those injectors would be very similar to the yellow 550cc Subaru Sti injectors. 6v 4.9ms 9v 1.72ms 12v .88ms 14v .67ms 16v .48ms
  12. 1 point

    s15 VCT set up

    Yes, I'v been watching this thread, I have the same issue of cycling VTC on and off as rpm floats around VTC On/off point during cold start. Inj 5 pin (JDM Spec R), can't do 3rd condition, Link software only allows me max 2 conditions. Poncams on stock unopened engine, doesn't idle well if I switch VTC on below idle, I haven't tried to play with tune yet to smooth it with VTC on at idle.. Stock ECU conditions for VTC ON are neutral switch off, TPS voltage high enough for idle 'switch' off and 1050-5700rpm
  13. 1 point

    E-throttle and WRXLink (7-9)

    Hi Brad, E-throttle support was added about a year ago. Bottom board PCB revision number V1.5 and above (we are up to V1.8 now) have E-throttle pins available on the Expansion connectors. I cant give you a serial number when the change occurred but a quick way to tell is look at the Exp connector and if Aux 9 & 10 are present you have an E-throttle capable ecu. This note under E-throttle Aux set-up should have made it reasonably clear: The main thing that is very confusing to new users is that in the software you have Aux 4 and Aux 9 assigned, yet on the Exp connector you have Aux 9 and Aux 10 to connect to your motor. This confusion is well "hidden" in our wirein ECUs but cannot be in the plugins without messing up other functions so we just have to learn to live with the confusing labelling. Basically Aux 4 and 9 share some electronic resources so they are mutually exclusive. Aux 4 in the software controls the Aux 9 pin on the Exp connector. Aux 9 in the software controls Aux 10 pin on the exp connector. Clear as mud...
  14. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Engine don't start

    That will do it.
  15. 1 point

    E-throttle and WRXLink (7-9)

    Correct - I know it is confusing. Note you also need to have a spare aux output assigned to "E-throttle relay" (the aux doesnt actually need to be connected to anything - just needs to be assigned in the software).
  16. 1 point

    ''Laggy'' software

    Yeah that one's a known issue thanks.
  17. 1 point

    Driven speed corrections?

    Then all you need to do is adjust the calibration number on the DI settings.
  18. 1 point

    S54 Throttle Settings

    The S54 is a bit tricky to calibrate due to the linkages between the throttle motor and the throttle body. You cant use the automatic becuase of this. The way I do it: Main TPS should be the one on the throttle body. first with the motor not running, start logging in Pclink and just push the throttle body to full open. That way you get both max and min voltages for the both TPS. Input these voltages manually in the settings. Now you can start the engine but leave the E-trhottle in Setup mode. The main TPS (on the throttle body) will be ok now, but to get the correct voltage for the Sub tps (on the motor) You must give full throttle with the e-throttle and read out what the voltages are now. And on idle as well for the closed voltage. Input these in the setting and it should work i normal mode also. Here is a pic of my PID settings. I have 2 or 3 springs installed.
  19. 1 point

    Which ECU should I go with?

    I'm in Australia and the AEM platform is almost non-existent here as we have so many other options that are well proven. Download the PCLink software and have a look for yourself, I find it very user friendly. One tip would be to learn the keyboard shortcuts for tuning as that makes things a lot faster. I don't use the autotune stuff for AFR, it's easier to manually make adjustments to the map. I use the mixture map function to assist with a bit of fine tuning after initially roughing in the fuel map. The cost of a map sensor doesn't come into the equation when I'm making a choice on an ECU for a new build, MAP sensors are cheap and represent a negligible percentage of the overall cost when implementing a standalone ECU on a custom turbo build. An early IO table from the ZZE122R Corolla turbo I did is attached for your reference and this is an example map you can view with the older Vipec VTS software: JYU 1ZZ 12032016.pcl
  20. 1 point
    Grant Baker

    Pot Tuning Box

    Hi Another one from another brand of ECU that I find useful (Omex / DTA)... An external box that plugs into the Laptop that allows you to alter fuel / ignition in the cells you are currently in, then "enter" them into the map. So you can quickly turn a knob to get the fuel and timing how you want it very very quickly. Great thing about this is that you can assign the knobs to various parameters, like fuel, ignition, boost, injection timing etc etc. Who else thinks this would be a great tool for tuning the Link? Cheers, Grant
  21. 1 point

    New user for the G4 plugin on. Wrx v7-9

    I think the help file has all of that info. From the two pages below; LH Inlet cam position to DI1 (pin E9), RH Inlet cam position to DI2 (pin E2), LH Inlet cam solenoid to Aux1 (pin E16), RH Inlet cam solenoid to Aux2 (pin E12), MAP is connected to ANVolt 1 (pin B8), IAT can go to AN Temp1 (pin B27) and ANTemp 3 (pin D14)
  22. 1 point

    Modelled fuel + MAF questions

    Hi David, I dont have all answers and our documentation around MAF is a bit thin and barely anyone I know has used it, so I just done a few quick tests on the simulator to get some basic answers. With a MAF since you are measuring air mass directly so you dont need air temperature (to approximate the mass via density). If you select " MAF IAT" then the fuel equation is not modified by IAT. - It really just becomes a parameter that is logged and has no effect. I dont know this one confidently but I suspect "Off" is the most appropriate. I cant see how BAP would affect the measured air mass so I dont think that is useful. It appears to me that if you use Modelled mode then "estimated" is used, if you use traditional mode and have a MAF assigned then "measured" is used. That means to me that traditional mode is a more true MAF strategy but you then miss out on some of the fuel pressure/density comps. In modelled mode if I do a test at a fixed mass air flow and change something like "engine capacity" I see "estimated air/cyl" change and pulsewidth change, so it seems the "air density model" is still trying to do its work in the background. If you wanted to use modelled mode then put the charge temp table to zero and make sure your IAT is set to "MAF IAT" so charge temp is taken out of the equation. Provided the other air density related settings like "engine capacity" are left alone then it should provide a good MAF strategy.
  23. 1 point

    Start Up Momentary Switch Wiring

    Starter Control Starter Control provides ECU managed operation of the Starter Motor. There are two requirements for starter control to function: · A Digital Input Function must be setup as Start Position. This could be a conventional key activated ignition switch or a push button. and · An Auxiliary Output Function must be setup as Starter Solenoid. This output should be connected to starter solenoid relay. Starter Control Settings Start Switch Mode Selects the mode of starter control. Options available are: · OFF - No starter motor control by the ECU. · Test - Use for testing input/output functionality only. When Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. No other conditions are checked, this could potentially lead to starter damage, engine damage or personal injury if operated at the incorrect time. · Normal - Behaves the same way a typical vehicle starting system. The key is turned and the engine will crank until the key is released. However it offers the added protection of preventing the starter being engaged at a high engine speed and the option to disable starting if the vehicle is not in Park/Neutral or is immobilised. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. The auxiliary output will stay active until the Start Status turns off OR the the Deactivation RPM is reached. · Start/Stop - Allows the use of a single button for both starting and stopping the engine. When the engine is stalled, pressing the button will crank the motor over. Once the motor is running, pressing the button again will stall the engine. This mode is suitable for a single start/stop button on the handle bar of a motorbike or jet ski. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. The auxiliary output will stay active until the Start Status turns off OR the Deactivation RPM is reached. Once the engine is running, if the engine speed is above the Deactivation RPM AND the Start Status becomes active the ECU will apply a 100% Fuel and Ignition cut to the engine. · Touch Start - Allows a starter motor button (or key) that can be momentarily pressed to start the engine. The driver taps the button and the ECU will take care of starting the engine. Typical applications for Touch Start mode would be remote starting or a jet boat. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is momentarily active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output until the Max Crank Time is met or the Deactivation RPM is reached. As of firmware version 5.5.6, pressing the start button again while the engine is running will stop the engine. Starter Deactivation RPM Specifies the engine speed (RPM) above which the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output turns OFF. Use Anti-theft Lockout An option to make the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output conditional upon Anti-theft status. If set to Yes and Anti Theft Status is Active the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output will not function. Use Neutral/Park Lockout An option to make the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output conditional upon Neutral/Park status. If set to Yes and Neutral/Park Status is OFF the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output will not function. Max Crank Time Used only on Touch Start Start Switch Mode, this is the maximum amount of time the starter will be allowed to crank if the engine does not start. Starter control Examples Example 1: Normal Mode with Anti-theft Assume Starter Control is set up as: Start Switch Mode = Normal Starter Deactivation RPM = 600 RPM Use Anti-theft Lockout = Yes Use Neutral/Park Lockout = No With the above settings the ECUs Starter Control would activate the starter motor if: · Engine speed is less than 600, and · The anti-theft signal is off and · The driver presses the start button (or turns the key). Example 2: Start / Stop Mode with Neutral / Park Lockout Assume Starter Control is set up as: Start Switch Mode = Start / Stop Starter Deactivation RPM = 550 RPM Use Anti-theft Lockout = No Use Neutral/Park Lockout = Yes With the above settings the ECUs Starter Control would activate the starter motor if: · Engine speed is less than 550, and · The Park/Neutral signal is active and · The driver presses the start/stop button. With the above settings the ECU would apply a 100% cut to both fuel and ignition if: · Engine speed is greater than 550, and · The driver presses the start/stop button. Note: The fuel and ignition cut will remain until engine speed is zero RPM.
  24. 1 point
    That will do it. Good deal.
  25. 1 point
    based on the log, it looks like you have shit fuel pressure. Max it reaches is 170kpa.
  26. 1 point

    Beams 3SGE + G4+ Xtreme 1983 Toyota Carina

    I asked over at another forum where you asked this, but this is probably a better place... does the change in backpressure have any relativity to the change in cam timing?
  27. 1 point

    1 vs 2 wire knock sensor install

    As fare I remember the old Nissan knock Sensors make groudn through the block and one pin makes contact with the mounting surface. You can Check that with a ohm meter. Bosch knock sensor doesn't have contact between pin and mounting surface.
  28. 1 point
    Grant Baker

    EVO 4-8 plug in oddity

    Very true. Cost me quite a bit of time this!
  29. 1 point
    Hi, Sorry I missed your earlier post. Not when using a predefined "OEM" stream. Probably unlikely due to the popularity of the platform. We usually need to buy or borrow a car for a few weeks to reverse engineer the can bus and test is under many conditions etc. So we need to weigh the cost of doing so against the likely number of ecu's this stream would sell. I can probably knock you up something for this. What did you want to use the "shifter position" for? I think I could only really bring this in as a CAN digital input, something like "park/neutral" status.
  30. 1 point

    EVO 4-8 plug in oddity

    Would be good if you can pack a additional paper to the ECU package, to get sure customers are aware. Because such things means always diagnosis time for us tuners which nobody want pay for. Think is a much easier task from your side to pack a letter to the ECU, which descrips the situations that the pinout will be updated only on the next firmware release.
  31. 1 point


    On a Link G4+ ECU no not yet. Luckily the cars we run Thunders in both have Motec dashes with SLM shift lights fitted so we flag a warning before there is a cut from a GP limit. It does need some more work I agree but the guys are moving forward but they need a little kick sometimes to hep them long the way...
  32. 1 point

    3sgte COP

    Yes timing should be checked. Jut put a HT lead between the coil and plug to allow a timing light to be clipped on.
  33. 1 point

    EVO 4-8 plug in oddity

    Yes updated pinouts will be in the next release of PCLink which I believe is not far away.
  34. 1 point

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Did this change ever get looked into? Maybe we will see it on the next firmware upgrade?
  35. 1 point
    Make sure your using 12v from an ignition source and not constant battery 12v
  36. 1 point
    Grant Baker

    Mini r56 s crank trigger set up

    That's a 60-2 trigger pattern.
  37. 1 point
    I wouldnt jump to that conclusion. If you want to diagnose a fuel mixture problem then you will need a lambda connected. Without that we are shooting in the dark. It might be more obvious to you as you can hear and see the engine running, but a log without that feedback is not very helpful. The S54 Ethrottle has 6 ITB's (return spring on each), the linkage is very non-linear at the initial opening and Engine vacuum seems to have a large effect on them (I suspect the butterfly shaft isnt centered so vacuum pulls them closed, maybe a safety feature?) It takes a lot of grunt to get open when there is high manifold vacuum. Our E-throttle hardware is a bit borderline for driving these and some guys have trouble even after removing some springs. This is normally the amount of throttle that the closed loop system is trimming the "E-throttle 1 target" to maintain the idle RPM target. In this log however it appears Idle speed control is not even working - the idle status shows "speed not selected", which usually means a speed lockout is set up but there is no speed source. I dont know if he has changed the map after the log was taken or whether there is something odd going on.
  38. 1 point

    3uzfe e throttle

    Your PID settings look good enough - your target vs actual tracking is pretty accurate. The numbers in your TPS calibration dont line up with the max/min voltages seen by the ECU though, so its like at clsoed throttle its actually reading -10% for example. The biggest problem is that the latest log now shows voltages for main and sub both moving over a full range of motion, no 70% stop on the sub signal like you have configured. Try changing the tps sub percentage to 100% and get another log please. If you look at the TPS voltages rather than the percentages,it shows TPS main as 0.66v minimum and 3.12v maximum. These should normally be your closed and open numbers. Your config has closed and open numbers as 1.051 and 2.972. The 100% value looks to match the steady state open throttle voltage of 2.97v, but it spikes above 2.97v up to 3.12v for a little bit each time you snap the throttle open. I'd suggest leaving open voltage at 2.97 for now but changing the closed number to match minimum value. At the closed end the throttle it has to get to several percent open before it will register any movement off the closed position. Try changing the TPS main closed value to 0.66v TPS sub shows 2.21v min and 4.93 max. Again your open value of 4.966V looks close enough, but your closed value of 2.698 means the sub sensor also wont see any movement until a few percentage points of movement. Try changing the closed value to 2.21v. I also noticed something strange in your log - the minimum values are usually 0.66v and 2.21v, but at 27 sec, 39 sec and at 45 sec it attempts to return to 0% throttle, but the voltages sit above the closed voltages. I'm assuming this is just because once it drops below the expected minimum it will stop driving the throttle shut, so its probably just physically at 2-3% open. Theres a chance though that your tps does have issues and isnt registering the closed voltages consistently. You'll need to change the closed calibration numbers and re-run the log with all values present to check.
  39. 1 point
    It is correct that in theory you shouldn’t have more than the two terminators at each end of the bus, but in real life most OEM buses will still run happily with the extra termination resistor, so try if first. Some of the CAN messages may match the 350z but that is unknown.
  40. 1 point

    3sgte COP

    Ignition drives only get assigned when loaded into an ecu. Load your map, store, then power cycle. Drives will then be assigned correctly according to your ignition mode.
  41. 1 point

    Using DI9 and DI10 as canbus

    Correct, DI9 & 10 just need to be set to off to allow CAN through.
  42. 1 point

    3uzfe e throttle

    Based on your log try these settings main closed voltage: 0.95 main open voltage: 4.41 sub closed voltage: 2.56 sub open voltage: 4.93 sub 100 percentage: 60% [edit]if that dip in voltage at the start of the log is not just an anomaly, and represents actual 0% TPS, then you need to use the value below. Does it look like the at rest position of the throttle blade is completely shut or does it look 2-3% open, and only fully closed when pushed/driven shut? Once you get it pretty close, can you run the calibration wizard to fine tune it? main closed voltage: 0.66 main open voltage: 4.41 sub closed voltage: 2.21 sub open voltage: 4.93 sub 100 percentage: 62.5%
  43. 1 point

    CAN-EGT module

    We have used the latest Ecumaster unit with very good results. Honda Civic Drag car running Plug and Play Link ECU together with link canbus lambda and ECUmaster Can EGT. Making some good numbers so far IMG_0283.TRIM.MOV
  44. 1 point

    Engine fan questions

    This would think is a fail safe of the unit so that if the wire was disconnected it would run full speed. Our drive is geared to pull the signal low and the Duty cycle refers to the % time it is held low.
  45. 1 point

    Aux 9/10 & 17/18 under voltage

    For the manual cal you need to move the throttle plate by hand to fully open and fully closed to get the matching voltages. ·Manual Calibration - Type the sensor open and closed voltages into the TPS (Main) Closed, TPS (Main) Open, TPS (Sub) Closed and TPS (Sub) Open settings. The TP(sub) 100 setting must be set to the TP (Main) percent that TP (Sub) stops changing if a non linear sensor is used. If the TP (Sub) signal changes over the entire range of throttle plate movement (most common) then set TP(sub) 100 to 100%. Note: the sensor pin voltages can be seen in the Analog Inputs tab of the Runtime Values Window (press F12).
  46. 1 point

    Master Fuel adjustment

    Actually you want a bigger master fuel number in order to reduce your fuel table numbers... Here is how I would make this adjustment with minimal effect to your already tuned cells: To get your fuel table numbers more sensible we need reduce them by about 30% - this means we need to increase your master fuel by about 30% (realising it has to be a whole number it likely wont be exactly 30%). So as an example lets say your existing master fuel is 11, and we choose to increase it to 14. Now to get the exact percentage increase we divide the new fuel master by the old fuel master: 14/11 = 1.27273 (about a 27.3% increase). Now you left click on the top left corner of the fuel table to select the whole table, then just type in "/1.27273" (but without the ") and hit enter, this will reduce the whole table by the same percentage that you increased your master so your tune should remain relatively unchanged.
  47. 1 point
    Niklas Sandstrom

    BMW S65 V8 Trigger Mode

    Its the same trigger pattern. Im running two cars with this engine S65B40 and Link Extreme.
  48. 1 point

    4age 20v multi-condition VVT

    For my 4age 20v Blacktop I'd like to trigger VVT like the factory ECU, considering ECT, TPS (or maybe mgp) and RPM. I'm just uncertain about the best way to model this in PCLink with regard to volumetric efficiency. I think advancing intake cam by 30 crank degrees changes VE - if this is true, what's the right way to account for it in PCLink? It's a little more complex than just filling in the VE table, since the same throttle position & rpm can have advance or not depending on coolant temperature (and maybe other factors). I have an aux set to CAM-Switched with a virtual aux condition chained to get a couple more conditions. Dual Table Mode set to Dual Table, activated by the VVT aux trigger. The most obvious solution to me is to use the 2nd fuel table and basically tune the engine twice. Is there a better way to handle triggered-VVT VE shifting on a modeled fueling tune? 4age 20v modeled.pclr