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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  2. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  3. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  4. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  5. 1 point

    Repeating Fault Code 75

    Unfortunately that log doesnt contain values for TP Error Accumulator or TP/Target Error Accumulator. If we cant fix it here, add these 2 into the logged parameters for next time so we have better info next time it faults. For now, we can see here that the accel pedal has no issues and rule that out - both main and sub track nicely together and show no AP errors Comparing TP main & Sub we see the 2 of them track together quite nicely so its unlikely to be a TPS error. These 2 values seem to be within 0.2 - 0.3 at all times which is fine. comparing e-throttle target against TP main & Sub postitions however, we see that every time you get off the throttle, the TPS postition almost "bounces" back up a couple %. Usually this is caused by PID setting issues in the ethrottle control. in your case it looks like they might be a bit too aggressive, and its causing some pretty bad overshoot (and for it to not quite oscillate, but still jump back in the wrong direction once it overshoots). This screenshot shows the worst example I could find of both the "bounce" when you go from full throttle to 0%, and for general poor tracking of target -> actual TPS angle. Note the blue TPS line overshooting by 10% ish repeatedly between 10:04 and 10:08. There is another good example at 13:40 +/- 5 seconds. I'd suggest setting your ethrottle to "always run", then with the engine off, tune your PID settings a bit while logging these same values, until you get TPS to track target reliably thorugh both slow and fast throttle transitions
  6. 1 point

    G4+ Bluetooth

    The DC adaptor is just to supply power to the router, it plugs into the micro USB port that you see in the pic above next to the two Ethernet ports. On the back of the router, not shown in the picture is a normal USB A port that the ecu tuning cable plugs into. The Ethernet ports will not be used at all.
  7. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Surely any link dealer should be capable of tuning a link using the current software. Another reason why tunes get locked IMO.
  8. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  9. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I think you need to consider using a different tuner. There should be plenty around in Victoria?
  10. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    What engine by the way, Subaru???
  11. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Also looks like base fuel pressure is only 2.5 bar. You have a fuel pressure sensor input but not using it in the modelled equation. Injector dead time curve has steps in it.
  12. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    on a second look this morning, your tuner has also used both the charge temp approximation table and the IAT Fuel Trim Table, without much correlation between the two. Same with using modeled fuel mode and the warm up enrichment table is still in use as you would in a traditional fuel mode setup. whole map/config likely needs revisiting
  13. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Is the turbo too small? It's not holding boost There are huge swings in Lambda at cruise from very lean to very rich. Quite frankly Lambda is way off its targets almost all of the time. Probably due to the large jumps in the fuel table between load points. At one point in cruise it is as high as 1.2 (17afr) @3000 rpm at steady throttle. It is also very lean at times in boost like .956 (13.8afr) @18psi. Just two examples of a constant theme. For some reason it has 2 x Lambda Target Tables on one fuel type. Generally 2* timing comes out for every 20kpa (3psi) load. Have a look at the ignition table - It's just sitting there in big blocks of the same and higher numbers. The CLL is turned on with 0 gain and it doesn't seem to be making any corrections although the fuelling needs to be pretty close for it to work well anyway. Put Lambda avg and Lambda Target together in your logging time plot and you'll see what's happening. The knock control is turned off so we can't see what is going on there.
  14. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    The tables look a little generic to me with a good bit of interpolation.
  15. 1 point

    Tacho signal to high voltage AE86 tacho

    yes, I've done it many times. Follow the attached guide and it will work perfectly ae86 gze tacho translated final.pdf
  16. 1 point

    Boost Control

    Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software. Best regards, Florin
  17. 1 point

    L/100km from Inst. Fuel consumption.

    kph value / 60 = km per min (a) inst fuel (in cc/min) / 1000 = Litres per min (b) with these 2 values now both in X per min, you can remove the "minutes" from the equation and use the 2 values as Kilometers per Litre so (a/b) To calculate it as km per (whole) Litre, multiply a by 1/b to change it from km per litre, to litre per 100km, you take 100 divide by the km-L value Example: 50kph, 150cc/min 50kph / 60 = 0.8333 km/min 150cc-min / 1000 = 0.15 L/min now that "minutes" is constant to both numbers you can simply remove it to give 0.8333km per 0.15L mulitplication factor is 1/0.2L = 6.666 so 0.83333km x6.666 = 5.55 km/L 100/5.55 = 18.01 L per 100km
  18. 1 point

    base map for Toyota Starlet turbo

    These are not from a running engine, they are just some I made to get someone else running. I believe they can have either a 4 tooth or 24 tooth wheel in the distributor so both options below. These are from an Xtreme but will load into an Atom ok. 4efe 24 tooth dizzy.pclr 4efe 4 tooth dizzy.pclr
  19. 1 point

    Modelled fuel critical settings

    The engine capacity setting will mostly just scale the airflow calculation up or down. So if you get it wrong your VE numbers wont quite match reality. Probably not a big deal.
  20. 1 point

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  21. 1 point

    base map for Toyota Starlet turbo

    What engine and what ecu?
  22. 1 point

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    For anyone else looking for HKS VCam info - yes the G4+ can run this ok. Connect the cam position sensor to any DI 1-4, set as VVT cam position, LH Inlet. Connect the solenoid to any Aux 1-4, set as VVT solenoid LH Inlet, frequency 250Hz. Set VVT mode to Toyota 1JZ. Do a cam angle test (explained in help file) to get the correct offset for the digital input. VVT PID needs to be set to custom with P=5.0, I= 0.04, D=20.
  23. 1 point

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    If you leave the control solenoid unplugged you will have the cams sitting at a safe position. (or just have the Aux turned off)
  24. 1 point

    Cam sensore bmw wiring

  25. 1 point

    350Z+ G4+ questions

    @Adamw Hi Adamw, can you also provide me info regarding get rid of the lights in cluster after installing the 350Z plugin? Thanks.
  26. 1 point

    Aftermarket 4G63 Trigger Setup

    You are correct, on the Evo9 plug-in the tacho is driven direct from a circuit that gets its signal from the crank trigger. This was done to save an aux output as the evo is particularly hungry for aux outputs. You will be able to make Inj 7 drive the tacho but there are a couple of gotcha's... Inj 7 is connected via an internal circuit to DI7 & Ign 8 so you wont be able to use these for anything else - they will have to be set to off. Inj 7 doesnt have a pull-up resistor fitted like most auxes do so you will need to add your own pull up resistor to +12V. I suggest a 2.2Kohm. Pin 59 is a switched 12V so that is convenient. Something like this:
  27. 1 point
    Ken Dunkley

    V8 Distributor modification

    Hi - I did this to the MSD distributor on my Dodge V8 . I timed the dizzy as you would ordinarily- found the no1 tooth and ground off the remaining 7 . The MSD dizzy had the facility to lock it - so no centrifugal advance comes into play . Also it is a VR type pickup . When i timed the gap on the 60-2 wheel i used - it was approx 90 degrees away from when TDC occurred at the dizzy . I had no issues with phasing of the gaps so cant say either way about that .
  28. 1 point

    Thunder lambda sensors

    Im not convinced if it is actually caused by electrical noise or if it is actually the throttle blade moving due to vibration or poor adjustment or lumpy vacuum etc. The "noise" seems to mostly disappear when you open the throttle. Has the cable got plenty of free play and the throttle blade is sitting on a mechanical stop etc? What is the throttle body on this thing? Note you need to calibate your TPS as it is showing 40% at idle.
  29. 1 point
    Either could be. You adjust the gains so that you see equal knock levels reported on all cylinders. Typically the cylinders that are further away from the sensor need higher gain so I would say if the knock sensor is somewhere near the centre of the engine on these then the bottom set of gains look more like what I would expect. The best frequency for knock detection can be biased by many modifications so what works well for someone else may not be right for you. For instance hanging a different turbo/manifold off the side of an engine will usually change its knock signature.
  30. 1 point
    Why do you want to change it in the first place ? ( either will work ) And why on earth are you scaling things to 400kpa ! Find a competent tuner and get it done right. Although at least the idle area has become a bit more sensible.
  31. 1 point

    LAt and Lond Accel values

    The accel channels only work with the Thunder ECU which has built in accelerometers. You should be able to use the gearshift control function to do the downshift blip. It will look at clutch switch and throttle position to determine if it is an upshift or downshift and apply the appropriate strategy from there.
  32. 1 point

    Force GDI no output on DI pump driver

    Attach your basemap or send it to tech@linkecu.com
  33. 1 point
    iecku.tavea racing

    Electronic Wastegate Actuator

    @Adamw I try to get some data for you! Perhaps the video already tells you enough. I talked to my VW/Audi guys...it is no problem to use these actuators on RS3 with upgraded turbo to ~2,5bar boost.(Tested!)
  34. 1 point
    Was this problem solved at the end? I am having the exact issue with Link G4+ plug ins on my FD. "When AC pressure switch(in series w AC button) is open due to high pressure, voltage @ pin 4V is 0v=gnd. This means that Vipec ECU does not understand that AC systempressure is to high and just keeps running the AC compressor. " Once the AC pressure switch 'clicks', I no longer able to turn off AC compressor, it will stay on. It's like the pressure switch is working the opposite way as it suppose to be.
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