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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Grant Baker

    Easy DI Function Search.

    Hi, Just an idea... It would be great if there was a way of searching for what a DI controls. For example, you have a DI x set to activate Boost. You may want it to do other things and have it activating a less agressive traction control, alternative fuel map etc. A simple "Search" for DI x shows all the things that DI x is assigned to?
  2. 2 points

    Engine protection question

    Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.
  3. 1 point

    60-2 crank and 36-1 cas

    Since it is only a 4 cylinder I would be happy with that, in my experience you should be able to get an acceptable signal. All cylinders have individual gain settings so you can adjust the "volume" of each cylinder to allow for distance from the sensor.
  4. 1 point

    60-2 crank and 36-1 cas

    What engine? How many cylinders?
  5. 1 point
    The more common way to do it is as per your swindon picture, your primary injector would be after the throttle so there can be no "pooling", the secondary outboard injector would only activate at WOT. http://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/96/
  6. 1 point

    ECCS SYNC not working

    Hi Ryan, The ECU going offline would indicate a wiring problem or possibly battery voltage is dropping very low. Since the widest slot measurement is already known for this engine you dont actually need to do the widest slot test - you can just enter this figure manually. To do this you need to set the "Test ECCS sync" to on so that the widest slot setting is unlocked. You can then type in 16deg for the widest slot and hit enter. Set the "Test ECCS sync" back to off. Now you just need to fix the reason for the ECU going offline... Does it go offline everytime? Is the battery in reasonable shape and is it cranking at reasonable speed? Anything added to the wiring like an alarm or immobaliser etc?
  7. 1 point

    R33 GTR Aircon on stalling

    You have zeros in your AC Step table, this table determines how much extra the idle valve opens when AC is on. Try putting about 5% in all of these cells.
  8. 1 point

    G4+ storm inbuilt map sensor reading

    MAP is an acronym for Manifold Absolute Pressure. 14.5psi is normal atmospheric pressure. 0psi would be an absolute vacuum and is impossible. You can use the parameter MGP (Manifold Gauge Pressure) if you want to read manifold pressure in relation to the atmosphere.
  9. 1 point

    VVT Cam input

    If it’s a north/south engine then the aspect would be looking from the drivers seat. If you have a east/west engine then you’re looking from the flywheel end
  10. 1 point

    e-throttle opinions - worth it?

    The Silver xtreme does in fact have E-throttle built-in. Cruise control is not available in the G4, so we can scratch that one off the list. Another function E-throttle is really nice for is anti-lag but that is not relevant in this case. So that leaves two main benefits; The multiple target tables like David mentions. Wet/dry or husband/wife setting etc. The other one David touched on but may not be clear to those who dont know; Many engines will perform better with a smaller max throttle openings at some RPM's. For instance you may find at 3000RPM your engine makes more power with 85% throttle than it does with 100%. With E-throttle you can command a different "WOT" value for different RPM's. On the flip side, compared to a cable throttle, E-throttle uses up 3 more analog inputs, wiring is a little more complicated, and requires a bit more tuning time.
  11. 1 point

    r33 gtr traction control

    My initial thought is I dont think traction control will work well on a car like this... Its been a long time since I played with the GTR attesa system but my recollection is it basically behaves like a rear wheel drive under normal driving conditions, the centre clutch pack is fully disengaged and there is no drive to the front diff. The centre clutch pressure is only increased progressively after certain input thresholds are met, from memory the main ones were, wheel slip, accelerometer and TP. So if you use a wheel slip based traction control set up in the Link ecu, then the attesa ecu will see much less slip and either wont engage front drive or will engage it much less than it normally would. So I think the end result of enabling traction control will be a near 2WD car with actually less traction than without it.
  12. 1 point

    Engine protection question

    If you dont mind it being a bit harsh, you can "chain" virtual aux's with as many parameters as you want, and set this virtual aux as the trigger for any kind of engine protection you want (either RPM limit, or the trigger to swap to a low power ignition/ethrottle table, etc). Its a straight on/off though so if you want it to fell graceful you have to set up the "safe" table to have something like usable values up to 2-3k rpm or 10% throttle and "limit" values above this.
  13. 1 point

    Differential Fuel Pressure

    change your fuel system type to FP sensor. Without that, Fuel pressure is not actually used for the various calculations. The way you had it, it tells the ECU to always assume it's 300kpa.
  14. 1 point

    Custom Crank Tooth

    Yep I think that looks ok, just in the gap area it is not clear so to confirm below, cut off all black teeth including 3 teeth in a row that I have marked.
  15. 1 point

    Custom Crank Tooth

    For a VR sensor to work well, the teeth on the wheel will have to be about the same width as the original teeth on the Diahatsu wheel. I also suggest you make the missing tooth gap just like you have it below (full depth). The "half depth" gap is only required on high tooth count wheels (60-2 etc). Attach your map so I can check your settings.
  16. 1 point

    60-2 crank and 36-1 cas

    The sensor shown in your photo looks like a littlefuse 55505, or Honeywell 1GT101DC and ZF GS1012 are almost identical. Any of these are easy to get and work well for cam sync. The threaded ones are often easy to mount also, so have a look at something like a ZF GS1005 too.
  17. 1 point

    60-2 crank and 36-1 cas

    The 60-2 crankshaft wheel is used for the engine speed and angle information, all critical timed events are calculated from this. The single tooth on the cam is only used for "sync" basically it tells the ECU whether the next TDC event on the crankshaft is # 1 cylinder or #4 so the position,/resolution/accuracy/location of this is not important. In your case you would use the 60-2 on the crank as the main trigger (trigger 1), and on the CAS you would only wire the one inner sensor that reads the single inner slot to trigger 2. The 24 slots around the outside will not be used at all. I suspect the CAS kit you are looking at is designed for engines that dont have the 60-2 flywheel, so they use the 24 slots for trigger 1 and the single slot for trigger 2.
  18. 1 point
    +4 I'd like to change the default save folder to my Dropbox folder, so as soon as I get within range of wireless it'll automatically back it up, and I can then view it on another machine with a better display.
  19. 1 point

    r33 gtr oil temperature enable

    You will first need to confirm if the sender has been wired back to the ECU and if it has what Volt input it is on. You can then set up a cal for that AN volt channel. You will need to know the Voltage to pressure values for a couple of points in the senders range.
  20. 1 point

    60-2 crank and 36-1 cas

    You have two options: You can modify the cam sensor so it has just one tooth/slot - then it will work with the 60-2 crank. You can forget about the 60-2 and just use the 36-2 on the cam - this will give you all you need for full sequential but means your main engine position signal has some error due to the cam drive system backlash.
  21. 1 point

    DBW throttle on link g4+ celica st205

    Drop me a call next week 01474 850666
  22. 1 point
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D fuel, 5D fuel and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  23. 1 point
    I see just over 5 KPA pressure drop as an example. I find the pressure slope of the turbosmart 1200 to be very good, that's what I use. I would try a better quality fuel pressure regulator and rewire the fuel pump using a realy close to the pump with large gauge wiring.
  24. 1 point
    Hi Jules, You're thinking along the right lines, but what you want to adjust is your master fuel number. For example if you had a master fuel number of 15ms with your 320cc injectors it would go like this: 320/550 = 0.5818 (old injectors/new injectors) 0.5.818*15 = 8.7272 (ratio from above * old master fuel number) Better to be rich than lean, so I would round up to a new master fuel number of 9ms. You will need to substitute your master fuel number into the maths above to arrive at your new master fuel number. You definitely need to have it re-tuned properly, but this should get you a good starting point. The master fuel number is found in PCLink under ECU Settings > Fuel > Fuel Setup > Fuel Main Let me know if you run into any problems, Scott
  25. 1 point

    Link G4 User Manual download?

    Hi Marc, As Zack mentioned, you can open the help file and print the pages you wish. Generally if you are going to be tuning (and using the G4 tuning manual), you are going to have PCLink open. I do understand where you are coming from though as being able to read something from paper without having to switch between PCLink and the help file is useful. I will put a suggestion forward to have the manual available in a pdf format. Cheers, Scott