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  1. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    For those looking for a base map to have a play with. Software can be found at http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink 6.15.15.exe Monsoon FW 6.15.6.pclx
  2. 3 points
    TechDave

    Share your Math Channel List

    So this afternoon I sat at the simulator and started mucking about with a few ideas. I wanted to calculate my average speed based on some event, I used a digital input latching on. In the UK we have average speed camera zones, you get snapped at the start and end and they do a distance over time calculation. Often you'll get slowed down by a Karen in an X5 not paying attention, I've always been curious how much I could safely speed up again to catch back up to 50 mph average over the trip. You can do this in log analysis with the statistics view, but this is obviously operating at runtime. So there's a few things here I've done that aren't documented yet, yes they will be. The first is that maths channels can do reassignment, x = x + 1 etc The next is that they're evaluated at 1000 Hz Lastly I know of a few built in functions too. I figured out two methods, of averaging, the first could be used not only for wheel speed, but for really any parameter, lambda, throttle position, you could use another maths function to find lambda, vvt, boost, etc error then feed that function into this one and have an average of error over some time period. This one uses this algorithm: newAverage = oldAverage + (newSample - oldAverage)/sampleNumber the cnt function is a real good cnt function, it counts 1 per cycle (so 1 per millisecond) while c is greater than or equal to 1, so if you feed it a status which evaluates to 0 OFF and 1 ON, then you're away. If you want to use this for Anti-Lag active we might have to get a bit imaginative about an offset, iirc Anti-Lag OFF = 0, ON = 1, Active = 2...etc I had to add a +1 to cnt because on the first cycle it's 0 and that's div by 0, plus the first cycle is the 1st sample too. The 2nd method I came up with was to calculate distance, which of itself is a useful function, then calculate distance/time, again using that good cnt function: Again using reassignment in the Distance function, multiply speed by 1/100th of a second, of a minute, of a hour to get distance travelled per millisecond (rate is 1kHz), I multipled by status to simply switch it on and off. This gives me km. distance a over time, divide by the same multi as above gets us back to an average. You don't need to use 8dp for this, I was just using it while getting my exponents sorted. My functions agree with each other and track to my expectations, but if you spot an error in my maths then shout out edit: unfortunately this is all in kph as I started running out of characters to add the mph multiplier, I've spoken with engineering and we'll see if we can get the length increased, 2.77e-7 helped a lot, but still lost a bit to parenthesis too.
  3. 3 points
    Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    As a feature request can we have the option on which Lambda sensor is used for CLL. As example I'm using 5 lambda sensors. One in the turbo dump pipe and 4 in the turbo manifold using a CAN module. The software uses a average for CLL but would be nice to use Lambda one so manifold pressure is not an influence. Currently to get around this from happening I've set the 4 CAN lambdas as CAN TC.
  4. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    Yep Multi fuel and traction control will be coming
  5. 2 points
    Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    Is it possible to have a Math block drop down box with the maths all ready worked out?
  6. 2 points
    TechDave

    G4x Base map

    @Ducie54 I get that if I haven't turned on a fuel mode yet. Switch on a fuel mode and you get it, I'll add a note to the engineers to show a message "no fuel mode selected...blah blah etc"
  7. 2 points
    Simon

    MR2/ST205 and Knock

    Highly likely.
  8. 2 points
    I think with engine temps of 10°C and 94% ethanol you are going to struggle with cold start and there will be little you can do from a tune perspective to help. The vapour pressure of straight ethanol is very low so there will barely be any vapor in the port at that temp no matter how much fuel you dump in, it will just remain as liquid. Somewhere below around 10°C there is not enough vapor produced to support combustion. This is the reason why pump E85 gets reduced to E60-E70 in winter so there is a little more of the volitile solvents available to create some vapor in the port. In regions like Brazil etc where they predominantly use straight ethanol it is common to use heated injectors to get around the problem.
  9. 2 points
    Yep sounds like you got it. Here's a quick demo: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPqylX67m5Oo57-JVv?e=t3SK3f
  10. 2 points
    Ok, all the CAN is done, I havent added any of the new channels to displays or whatever but they should now be available. I have kept all the channel names pretty much as per the BPM datasheet. The only one that is a bit ambiguous is Fuel level. He has used 2 bytes like it is expected to cover a large range of numbers but then says the range is only 0-53L. Just one byte can do up to 255 and 2 Bytes is capable of 65000. So I suspect he might be sending it as "0.1L" rather than whole Litres but that is not clear. If your fuel level says "500 Litres" when you have it all working then set the scalar to 0.1. Marvin-LinkG4UpdatedV2Port2CAN Adam.aemcd7
  11. 2 points
    hexdmy

    tps and MAP accel fueling together

    Bumping this topic... I'm surprised no one else has interest in this. OEM systems I have worked with do this, and it makes sense. At low throttle openings, a change of throttle angle is a better trigger for transient fueling than map for engines that have low / noisy idle vacuum. However, at steady throttle angles, on a turbo engine, as the boost builds, there can be a need for additional fueling, otherwise you get a lean spike. I've noticed this when tuning steady state and then doing transient sweeps, if you tune to the sweep, you get a inverse V in your fuel map. Certainly this is not reinventing the wheel, just doing what the OEM's have already been doing for many years, and for good reason.
  12. 1 point
    Davidv

    G4x Base map

    That would be pretty cool! Like have a preset number of functions in there.
  13. 1 point
    TechDave

    G4x Base map

    Done. Should also be fixed.
  14. 1 point
    mapper

    Share your Math Channel List

    I like to start a thread where everyone can add his Math channels, so a database is built. Please only post Math channels with short explanation in this thread. To keep it simple any discussion must be done in other threads. Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed Used to tune your LSD differential settings Slip right = nondriven-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. attention after a curb). Add the same function another for left. Then it looks like this :-) from 3.00min Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed Used to tune your LSD differential settings Slip right = non-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. Attention after a curb) to another function for left. Then it looks like this :-) from 3.00min Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed Used to tune your LSD differential settings Slip right = non-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. Attention after a curb) to another function for left. Then it looks like this :-) from 3.00min
  15. 1 point
    Laimis

    G4x Base map

    Agreed ! Also, individual Lambda closed loop control would be nice too. Pretty much sure the new microcontroler is capable now.
  16. 1 point
    Adamw

    Arctic cat Power valves

    Im not sure if they do a reset/calibration on power up or not sorry, I have very little info about how this function works. The best I could suggest is set the power valve control settings to some very low RPM when the engine is idling and see what happens.
  17. 1 point
    mapper

    Math Equation

    You can use the generated math channel as: - logging channel - input for other function - axis option on tables So it's up to your creativity what you can do. Combined with Virtual Aux and timers the possibilies are near endless! A few example: Boost error channel = Target Boost - MAP Boost error parameter can then be used to control an electric Blowoff Brake bias = (rear+ front break press)/ rear break press Front Wheelspeed Difference = LF wheel speed - RF wheel speed Used to tune your LSD differential settings Slip right = non-wheelspeed - RR wheelspeed Setup an Aux and turn on a driver warning light on the right side of the dash. So Driver knows right rear wheel is spinning faster ( eg. Attention after a curb) to another function for left. Then it looks like this :-) from 3.00min
  18. 1 point
    TechDave

    G4x Base map

    Just fired it into the issue tracker, cheers @Davidv
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4x Base map

    Hmm, good catch. It does actually work and display correct on a live ecu but they are going to have to fix that.
  20. 1 point
    Davidv

    G4x Base map

    Just a note If you go to add calibration data to a sensor, use Cal table 1, if you space them apart at say 0.5v, 1v, 1.5v etc It ends up reverting to full numbers and then does weird stuff if you look at it in the map view by pressing K So the cal tables need some bug fixing to be usable (unless it's a quirk of this empty basemap)
  21. 1 point
    Davidv

    G4x Base map

    1000hz! Wow thats awesome +1 to the above, lots of awesome changes looking forward to having a play around when some of the bigger brother models become available. The math block functionality is just crazy. So many possibilities!
  22. 1 point
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    Up to 1000Hz now available
  23. 1 point
    Sidenote. Here is a car i had yesterday. Problem is a hydraulic lifter resulting in a short EVO duration. About where my markers are set. Care to guess what a conventional compression tester would have showed
  24. 1 point
    Adamw

    launch control dbw limit

    Could you not use 2 axis on one throttle table to do both different antilag settings, to free up a table for the launch? For instance example below. Table 1 = normal touring. Table 2 = 2 different antilag bypass amounts. Table 3 = wheel speed based launch throttle reduction.
  25. 1 point
    Maybe in the X series? I can wait to check the new software
  26. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link Monsoon

    The crankshaft turns twice per 4 stroke engine cycle. So the missing teeth on the crankshaft wheel can only tell the ECU where TDC is, it cant tell the ecu whether it is TDC for cyl 1 or TDC cyl 4. Only a cam sensor can do that. So if the ECU doesn't know if it is TDC 1 or TDC 4 then it cant fire the correct coil or the correct injector in seq/direct modes. Injectors don't need to be re-wired - just change the setting to multipoint group. Coils will need to be rewired to the correct drives and ignition mode set to wasted spark. If you want sequential or direct spark you need a cam sensor.
  27. 1 point
    Even better would be to make a General adusment function for different tires. For example setup a WET switch in the car, which switches tire diameter, rain light, DBW Map etc.
  28. 1 point
    JMP

    Injector dead time

    probably not useful for you but as an indication I've got the following : 290cc 1zzfe injectors have a deadtime of 0.608msec at 14V 349cc 2zzge injectors have a deadtime of 0.93msec at 14V But as posted above, you can start with around 1msec at 14V and then vary the system voltage adjusting the deadtimes at each breakpoint to maintain consistent AFR. I've got a big DC power supply that I connect in place of the alternator when doing that part of the calibration
  29. 1 point
    Leiden

    Injector dead time

    If your having trouble finding dead time information you can usually start with around 1.0ms at 14v, once you get the engine idling at a stable AFR unplug or disable the Alternator so the charging voltage drops to around 12v, tweak the deadtime information until your back at the original AFR. From there you can interpolate and get pretty close. The deadtime information isn't as critical as you might think, it normally only affects the low load areas of the fuel map.
  30. 1 point
    Simon

    MR2/ST205 and Knock

    It would actually be a huge task to implement this due to the way the code is written so will not be happening on the G4+ platform.
  31. 1 point
    Adamw

    Multi fuel - E85 Leaning out

    I would say your MAP sensor is dying. When it starts to go lean the MAP is only reading 6KPa which is near impossible (it shows 0 in some areas) and at the end after it stalls the MAP is 74 when the BAP is 92. MAP and BAP should read the same when engine is off.
  32. 1 point
    jetape

    Seadoo Rxp 2018 and Rxt 2018

    This is basically just updated 4tec motor. The throttle is analog. I had it running for a while but then out of the blue I started having trigger issue and it was very hard to start. Basically because of the 3-cylinder configuration on these motors the trigger signal is messy, it speeds up and slows down during cranking. I submitted a ticket for a pre-defined trigger option but my hopes are very low that it will ever get looked at, just not enough interest. BTW Vipec = Link ECU so you could grab vipec and have plug&play setup, keep stock dash with iBR functionality. Removing iBR means you lose trim control, not ideal for racing.
  33. 1 point
    Adamw

    Wire type and sizes

    The Link looms use a Japanese standard thin wall automotive wire known as "AVSS". It has a higher temp rating (120°C) than common PVC insulated wire. Most of the wires are 0.56mm2 from memory except for the two main grounds and the main red 14V wire, these are 0.75 or 0.85mm2 (sorry I cant find my old spec sheet). If you are in USA, a very similar alternative would be 20AWG TXL for the small ones and 18AWG TXL for the power/gnds.
  34. 1 point
    I can help you with the CAN set up if you first confirm what device you have. The document you attached is for a device from a company called BPM auto electronics. It is not a Motec device.
  35. 1 point
    cj

    help for porsche 986 2.5

    So basic engine/idle theory... **assuming your trigger1 offset is correct** engine power output is from compressing & igniting fuel + air. The more fuel + air you have in the cylinder, the more potential power. The ignition angle (ie "when" you ignite the mixture in the 360* cycle) determines how much of that potential power is actually created. In 95%+ of petrol/ethanol engines, you "control" the air intake, and the computer/carb adds an appropriate amount of fuel to match. To have a stable idle, the engine output power (torque) must equal the amount required to keep the engine turning over. Any less & it stalls, any more and the revs increase. So the 2 levers you have to pull to get a stable idle (at any rpm) are 1) how much air you let in 2) what ignition angle you fire the spark plugs at You are only changing #2 here, but it sounds like you have #1 a bit off vs the factory specs. 25* ignition at idle is quite high, so I suggest you need to increase the air flow at idle - either idle stop screw on the throttle, or increase the idle control settings in the ECU to allow more air. You will then see your idle jump up to higher rpm, and when you reduce the ignition table values it should come back down. I cant give you exact values, but typical factory ignition idle angles are usually in the 10-20* range, and in your case it sounds like the manual says 5*. You dont have to match this exactly as your idle numbers can also differ from factory, but its usually a reasonable starting point. You are extremly unlikely to have knock or other spark related damage at idle speeds, so there is no real "dangerous" ignition number for idle, its just what works well for your car. Knock only becomes an issue as the engine comes under mid-high load (note that low rpm can still be high load however when you press the throttle hard)
  36. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link Fury fueling issues w/E85

    Anything above 150Hz means contaminated fuel. Most likely water but could also be diesel or similar. You will have to drain the tank
  37. 1 point
    cj

    help for porsche 986 2.5

    your ignition table itself looks like a good starting point the trigger1 offset you have to find yourself with a timing light as suggested by Adam. It can be different on each engine so we cant tell you exactly what number to use. remember to press enter after typing in an offset to get it to stick. As for your idle issue, maybe fuelling? Can you post a log of it happening please? Also disable launch control, its set to "on with DI4/clutch switch" so may be on accidentally which will pull 10deg of timing and other things unhelpful to idle. Unlikely to be your idle problem but I suspect there is something wrong with your oil temp sensor (shows a reading of -33C when ECT & IAT are both ~20C), and you engine compartment temp gauge is reading in KPA because of its calibration, which makes no sense at all.
  38. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link Fury fueling issues w/E85

    It sounds like the ethanol sensor digital input is outside of its operating range and has switched over to the fault/error value. The fault setting is user adjustable but most commonly it is set to zero% so that it if it fails it runs like crap and you know there is a problem. The normal operating range of a flex fuel sensor output is between 50 and 150Hz, the ECU will consider it in error if the frequency goes below 40Hz or above 160Hz. So to get yourself running again you can temporarily set the fault setting to say 85% (or whatever you believe the E% in the tank is at). I would only drive it easy like this though and set it back to zero once fixed. Here's where you find that setting: Now, to check what is causing the problem, with the engine running you can go to the runtimes screen (F12), digital tab, and find the DI that is set to ethanol sensor (in my example below it is DI5), then look at the DI frequency reported on the lefthand side (mine is showing 120.1Hz). If it is showing 0.0% then there is a wiring problem - a loose connection or no power at the sensor or similar. If it is showing a frequency but it is below 50Hz or above 150Hz then it is a fuel contamination problem - most likely water or diesel in the fuel.
  39. 1 point
    Ducie54

    Link Fury fueling issues w/E85

    Are you getting fuel flow and pressure? Any idea the condition of your fuel filter.
  40. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    e throttle idle issue

    Outside closed loop control range. If the rpm hangs to high it won’t try to correct.
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    Flat lines in log file

    I only see one around time 1:04, is this what you are talking about? This would typically indicate an interruption of USB comms. So it just draws a straight line between the points where is lost comms and when it started again. The reason for that will be harder to diagnose. What sort of connection speed do you normally see at the top right of your screen? I only had a quick look, but my feeling is just before that point the MAP drops from around 39/40 to 34KPa, this reduces the injector PW from 0.44 to 0.37, but the lambda actually goes richer. I suspect maybe your injectors are just hitting the point where they are becoming erratic - some are behaving differently than others. Try setting your min effective pulse width limit to something like 0.42 and see if you can reproduce it.
  42. 1 point
    Simon

    Evo PnP with Turbosmart E-gate

    I would say unknown at the moment. It looks to need a heap of current to operate so we would have to use a solid state relay as none of the ECU drives will do 20A There is also position feed back which currently we have no strategy directly for.
  43. 1 point
    cj.surr

    Bluetooth Adapter for Dash - Success

    I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging) This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports. The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive. The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model: I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec. In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect. If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter. Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all. This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. Blue = 5v Orange = GND Grey = RX Yellow = TX
  44. 0 points
    Your ignition timing is all over the place, your jumping like 30 degrees in a 500 rpm range.
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