Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 09/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D fuel, 5D fuel and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  2. 2 points
    MarcD

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  3. 1 point
    Adamw

    St205 Dwell Times or St185

    If the ST185 dwell table works better for you then by all means please use it.
  4. 1 point
    Hi everyone, Well the FORUM pages certainly look a bit prettier than before. I am still alive and still having good and bad days. However on my good days i still try to support LINK/ViPEC customers and do a little tuning. I also spend some time configuring and sorting issues for customers and friends. Not sure if this has already been sorted but i have decided to make the post anyway due to sorting the issue testing and proving it works on Friday just past. CAN BUS settings for both G4+/iSERIES ECU and MoTeC C SERIES COLOUR DASHES. Please find attached sample PCL for G4+ using a FURY and MoTeC comms config files etc for C Series colour dashes. Any issues please advise. Special thanks to my friend Mohammed from PCG (Pro Car Garage) in Saudi Arabia for testing my files as i had no dash to test on. Simon and Adam if already done please delete. This has been tested and is all working perfectly, there are a lot of parameters in my template, still room for a lot more to be added. Regards Dave. LINK G4+ with MoTeC C125 ETC_CANBUS CONFIG..c125v60 LINK G4+_ MoTeC C125 DASH ETC.CC8 G4+ Fury_ MoTeC C125 SERIES DASH CAN BUS CONFIG.pclr
  5. 1 point
    Adamw

    Missing Cable? ECU to USB

    The cable you are missing has part number #CANPCB. This is what it looks like: http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANPCB_2 You can search for a local dealer here: http://www.linkecu.com/dealer-network/ Most dealers would not have this part in stock but our UK warehouse has them in stock so it wont need to travel too far.
  6. 1 point
    andybp

    Windows tablet multidisplay

    I've gone with a 10" win 10 tablet took the back off and connected an external button to the power switch
  7. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Missing Cable? ECU to USB

    There is about a 6 inch cable that comes with the ecus that goes from that connector on the board to the CUSB cable. Definatily something I would recommend getting from link. May have to go direct as that usually comes with the ecu so many dealers may not have.
  8. 1 point
    Here is where you adjust that:
  9. 1 point
    The logging will still be limited to the 100Hz or 40Hz limit regardless of the data source. Although the ECU can still receive, process and use the data much faster if it is used for internal calculations - it will only be time stamped and written to the logging memory chip 100 times per sec. The maximum rate for transmitting CAN messages out of the ecu (for say an external logger) is limited to 200Hz.
  10. 1 point
    You'll need to check the wiring in your own car to determine how its wired up. Its likely gearbox > dakota > dash + ecu, but you can set these things up many different ways. Is it the factory dash? the link acceptable input range is in the same ballpark as what most 90's dash's expected, and that TR6060 probably outputs a much higher frequency being quite a new gearbox, so i'd guess the dakota box is used to drop the frequency to something the dash and ecu can both use. Conveniently, most 90's japanse cars used the same number of pulses per km for their dashes, so you can probably just splice into the dash+ecu speed signal and run an additional wire to the speed input on the steering ecu. Get out your multimeter and figure out which wires connect to where so you can be certain. You've got 3x options 1) use the link as a frequency converter and run a new speed output wire from link > steering ecu 2) connect from one of the dakota outputs to the steering ecu 3) if youve already got the right frequency running into your dash you can add a wire to this so its connects to the steering ecu as well. Only #1 will give you personalisable control over the level of assist. The other 2 will both take the real speed and feed it to the steering ecu so it will follow the factory speed vs assist calibration.
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    Car shut down

    Your triggerscopes look like they would work ok with your current settings but I would probably make a small change to the trigger 2 arming threshold table just to give us a little more margin of error. Try it like this: I suggest for the next little while that you carry your laptop around with you, then if it ever doesnt start again you can connect laptop and do a quick triggerscope which may show us what the problem is.
  12. 1 point
    Simon

    Car shut down

    Those loges were at cranking speed?
  13. 1 point
    According to that factory wiring, all the shielding on the crank/cam signal lines connects to the throttle body ground. As per AdamW above you should only connect sheilding to a single source so it looks like you leave this alone as far as ECU connections go. You could disconnect just the sheilding wires from the TB ground and connect it to the ECU's shield ground if you want but make sure its one or the other, and dont disconnect the whole TB ground bolt as its what your ECU uses as its ground connection. After looking at the diagram a couple of my comments above need changing: On an AUTO engine the VTA connection is throttle position but on a manual, its just idle and "not idle" as you initially suspected so you will need to run without TPS or replace it with the sensor off an auto (or an aftermarket TPS) The 12v/14v wiring shows you should use pin 3-7 (+B) as your input to the ECU as this wire runs from the output of the EFI relay. - do NOT use the BATT line as I first suggested. this appears to run directly from a permanent battery feed so I have no idea why it says "EFI relay"on the description. The other +B line on 3-1 isnt even shown in the diagram. There are also 2x vacuum solenoids marked "VSV boost" and "VSV TB ICV", and something marked boost control. One of "vsv boost" or "boost control" will be your boost control solenoid, but the one marked "boost control - BC" looks to be high side driven from the factory (ie the ecu outputs +12v to trigger it). You probably want this connected to a PWM controlled digital output on the link but these are only available as low side drive (ie they ground the output when active), so you will need to rewire that boost control solenoid so the EFI relay or another relay feeds it 12v constantly, and the ECU grounds the other side to control it. Hopefully you can figure out what these do by looking at what they are physically connected to as I cant tell from the diagram which of the 2x boost related systems is the one you wire up as boost control in the link ecu, or what TB ICV does. You may need to connect one or both of these to get the engine to work correctly but I'm not familar enough with these cars to tell you from the wiring diagram alone.
  14. 1 point
    Adamw

    Pclink dash tablet

    Hi Johnny, You might need to explain better what you need help with? If you just dont know where to start for the layout etc then maybe this video will help: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPkBKWqkFTOw1fcUZm So you know what Im doing, Red circle = Right mouse click, Blue circle = Left mouse click.
  15. 1 point
    Adamw

    Idle Up and Down problem

    I would say it is still mostly fuel related. The 4 cells highlighted in blue below are where you are idling so you want to flatten those out a lot more. It also appears you have very large injectors with no short pulsewidth data so this will make mixture quite inconsistent around idle. If you cant get proper data for your injectors then I would suggest aiming for a richer target at idle and possibly reducing your fuel pressure a little.
  16. 1 point
    Davidv

    Idle Up and Down problem

    The only thing I can see that's varying similar-ish to your RPM spikes is changes to your dwell time Maybe try change the value in the table so it's a bit more stable at idle.
  17. 1 point
    Hellafabrication

    Idle Up and Down problem

    You should be able to unplug the idle valve and open the throttle body to get your idle in the rough area of your required idle target. With a cable throttle you would make that just below your target and let the air bleed bring idle up.
  18. 1 point
    Adamw

    Connect link with wideband

    from PLX's manual: Note you dont need a cal table for a linear calibration, it will be easier for you to use cal 4, 5 or 6, like this:
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    Connect link with wideband

    Your problem is your cal table. You have table units set to "Lambda", but you have entered the table values in AFR. Enter your cal table data in Lambda units then if you want PC Link to display AFR, you change this in >options>units>options
  20. 1 point
    andybp

    Connect link with wideband

    I'll keep an eye on this as I have the same problem
  21. 1 point
    I agree with Cam's comment that we are missing the ability to do traction disable by a virtual aux at present but you can still do want you want if you have a spare aux/ign/inj output available: You set the aux to GP Output, set its conditions up so it goes true whenever your "AEM pot" is in the "0" position (most likely my example below would do it). You connect this aux output wire to your "traction disable" DI so it will then disable TC whenever AEM knob is in position 0.
  22. 1 point
    Simon

    DI handbrake shared with dash lamp

    I assume the switch is to ground so when on the ground is provided to the ECU and to the lamp? If this is the case the lamp can act as the pullup and the internal Di pullup can be turned off.
  23. 1 point
    Mike have see the Injector dynamics PRI videos. Worth a watch if you haven't
  24. 1 point
    Slightly off topic but perhaps relevant to the intentions of this thread. I did some tests with a thermal camera, with the fuel pump running and the engine turned off. In this case, what heats up the fuel is/was when the fuel flows through the hot fuel rail bolted to the head, and then circulating down to the fuel tank and back through hot fuel rail again and so on. Which is even worse when you have a surge tank to the fuel rail, which is probably why people think its the pumps making all of the heat. If you slow down the speed of your fuel pump, and the fuel is flowing slower through the fuel rail then you're still transferring the same BTU of heat. (Half as much fuel flowing for twice the time through the hot rail) If I leave the fuel pump running with a cold engine, it took something like half an hour to increase by 5 degrees. But with the motor running the fuel temperature increases almost immediately. Insulating the fuel rail from the heat of the head and I never had fuel temp issues again. Fuel rail is dark blue item near the left hand side after insulating it with thermal paint, and putting plastic washers under the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the head. EDIT: Found a pic of a close up of the fuel rail, you can see the hot bolts (now insulated) against the rest of the rail (darker colour)
  25. 1 point
    Heres a pic of the is300 unit relocated for a aftermarket wheel. And a pic of the Subaru stalk.
  26. 1 point
    Something like this will do it. Note "0%" in the boost table ratio table means you are using boost table 1, "100%" means you are using all of table 2, 50% would be a blend halfway between table 1 & 2.
  27. 1 point
    kika747

    Changing from 98 to e85

    hey guys just been tuning plenty vl turbos with the link vl plug in Ecu with great success I am currently in the process of changing fuels to e85 and would like to know how to do this.the car is currently tuned on 98pulp and is making 220rwkw atw and is automatic now would I change my injector deadtimes and retune the whole fuel map or would I add fuel with the fuel main and leave the deadtimes the way they are for e85 any help much appreciated
  28. 1 point
    Ivaylo Angelov

    G4 Audi TT Xtreme (red)

    Or may be this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/car-40P-81P-engine-wiring-harness-plug-121P-121-PIN-1J0-906-385C-038-906-379B/32723477544.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.tgK62G&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_5460015_10152_10065_10151_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_5470015_10304_10307_10137_10060_10302_10155_10154_10056_10055_10054_5370015_10059_10532_100031_10099_10338_10339_5380015_10103_10102_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10171_10326_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10110_5590015_10111_10112_10113_10114_143_10312_10313_10314_10078_10079_10073,searchweb201603_17,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=a642adc7-df9b-4fff-bdbf-2724dfd07660&algo_expid=b311710b-89e4-4fb8-9e19-59ba78ecc360-0&algo_pvid=b311710b-89e4-4fb8-9e19-59ba78ecc360
  29. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Poor idle

    Based on this thread and your thread about boost control issues, I would assume that you need to take the car back to the tuner. From my quick search, this should basically be the same motor as the audi tt with the 20v 1.8T motor. If that is the case, then this is a simple on/off cam control. And if the idle is fluctuating from 800-1300rpm then yes the cam will switch back and forth continuously. The mapper has the cam switch whenever the rpm is between 1200 and 5200 rpm.
  30. 1 point
    cj

    Poor idle

    As Iceman_n says, your VVT config looks a little odd considering the first couple google results suggest these engines have variable cams and not on/off. That being said, your idle fluctuations are not (entirely) caused by this. Only around 1 in 5 idle "cycles" is getting to a high enough RPM to have the cam switching kick in. The majority of your idle issues look to be related to how idle ignition timing is set up. Because your throttle opening at idle is set quite high at around 6%, the idle timing is set quite aggressively to attempt to pull your idle down to the 1100 its being asked for - ie instead of ~15deg at idle like a production car typically has, youre running about 5, and because there is so much air being allowed in by the throttle, when the idle control moves it from 5 to 7 degrees to try bring you idle up 100rpm or so, its overshooting and bumping it up by 300. Then the reverse happens, repeatedly. You also have closed loop ethrottle control enabled which i've seen cause something similar when not correctly tuned, but it looks like the throttle position barely moves anyway. To verify this is the problem, try changing closed loop idle ethrottle to open loop idle ethrottle and see if this helps. Next thing is to disable ignition idle control and check again. Expect your idle RPM to jump up quite a lot when doing this as 7% throttle at idle is quite a lot. If this stabilises the idle (but at too high a number), try lowering the numbers in your idle throttle % table until you get idle close to what you want. You may also need to lower the numbers in the top row of your ethrottle target if you get the idle numbers to 0 and its still idling too high. Once you've got the idle about where you want it in open loop, try turning on closed loop and ignition idle again. You will probably need to adjust the idle ignition numbers a bit so that the 0 error column has roughly the same number as your main ignition table at idle. This may also help your just off idle response too. At the moment its having to jump ignition angle and throttle posistion quite a lot between where it idles and where it needs to be at light throttle FYI this is mostly all in the help files under idle control. Have a read of that section.
  31. 1 point
    Adamw

    link atom launch control

    Ok, you still didnt tell me much about your setup and what you want to do but hopefully this example will give you some ideas... So in this example I have set up a virtual aux to "switch on" when wheel speed is less than 10KMH. I have assigned this virtual aux to an axis in a GP Limit table, this will give us a 6000RPM limit when the Virtual aux is on and a 10000RPM limit when the VA is off. I have then set up 4D fuel and ignition tables that are activated by this same VA. Whenever wheel speed is <10KMH, the 4D fuel will add 10% fuel and the 4D ign will retard ign 20degs.
  32. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Camshaft Trigger Edge / Sync Mode

    That would be "cam pluse 1x" If it were one tooth that spanned about 1/2 the way around, that would be cam level. As for rising or falling, I would start with rising. Once you get to cranking the engine, I would do a scope trace and if the rising edge of the cam signal happens at the same time as crank edge then switch to falling. With hall sensors it really doesn't matter unless one side is dirty/has some weird shape or happens at the same time as the trigger edge on the crank. And with the 60-2, the cam pulse cannot occur within the missing tooth or 30deg after it.
  33. 1 point
    Simon

    G4 Audi TT Xtreme (red)

    Yes would be the short answer but it likely easier to go for a proper wire in unit.
  34. 1 point
    lekonna

    variable boost map with fixed first gears

    yeah i recon this will work. dual boost tables, first one has gear vs rpm as axis with the required boost curves and max boost for each gear, second one has analog input vs rpm as axis with the min and max boost setup for 0 and 5volts. the selection of the boost map is chosen with virtual aux which will become active if gear > 3. like so
  35. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Rev limit

    Glad you got it sorted out Idris. But if you would like to get better information from the members of the forum, it would help if you supplied a bit more information with your questions. Different engine combinations sometimes benefit from different settings. And with your rather vague post, there is not much to go on to give you good suggestions. I hope this helps with your further posts on this forum. Have a nice day.
  36. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    1980's Toyota VSS

    This is what i was thinking. I believe you can even use an electronic sender from later "W" series gear boxes.
  37. 1 point
    mapper

    Tuning Table size

    Cell size was a criterion many years ago to compare ECU's. The VE modell Does a great job. Sometimes you want to move brakepoints arround, but I never felt that there are too less cells in a real world application. You can spent days to tune every cell perfect on the dyno (which needs anyway much more time if you expand the number of cells) and on the track you will find that transient AFR can vary alot depending how boost kicks in. I personaly found that I get more stable transient lambda readings (or less lambda error) if I tune TPS vs RPM in the main table and use a 4D overlay with boost compensation (MGP vs RPM). That virtually makes your Map even bigger than what Haltech has! And it will make a great job even with 10bar of boost.
  38. 1 point
    krohelm

    4age 20v Wiring & Installation

    Inputs for this engine: Digital Inputs Start Position +12v(can connect throttle closed whenever it's supported by Link as an input for idle control)Analog Inputs 83420-20040 factory engine coolant temp sensor Which Sensor Type should I use here?Factory inlet air temperature sensor Which Sensor Type should I use here?Factory MAP sensor Should I even use this? I'm basing my tune off of TPS and using the built-in MAP sensor as a BAP "Equation load source". If I do TPS tune, should I also use "No FP Correction"?Factory TPS sensor Pretty sure I'll need to just spend a few minutes with a volt meter and get the right values, should be ok.If I need to calibrate these sensors, how do I associate a Cal Table with, e.g., the TP(Main) input?
×