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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Yes, Spartan has a termination resistor built in and it is enabled by default. I would use the Spartan in its default mode, use 1Mb/s and 1024 as ID. Use the attached stream definition. From the testing I have performed, the Spartan doesn't actually work in Link mode, the stream appears to be incorrect. (you would have needed to log in via serial bluetooth to change the mode/ID to Link CAN Lambda mode) HTH, Richard. Spartan3ADVDefaultMode.lcs
  2. 1 point

    Subaru Knock 6-13Khz

    I would say unknown, but most likely it is a wideband sensor. 6KHz should be in the ball park
  3. 1 point

    Fuel Pump Control for dummies

    Fuel pump heating the fuel is a myth in my experience. My injector flow bench has 2x 044's in about a 10 lire tank and I only get about 5 degrees increase over a couple of hours. Say if your pump pulls 10A, that is only ~140watts, DC motors are about 80% efficient and vane pumps are up in that ball park too, so you may have something like 50watts of heat produced by the pump, most of it will be radiated off the large surface area tank etc. Also, see this one:
  4. 1 point

    Replacing resonant knock sensor to flat

    Knock 1 is pin B50, Knock 2 is pin B49, Sensor gnd is pin B65. At the ecu end of the cable, connect the shield and one wire together to sensor ground, connect the 2nd wire to the knock pin. At the sensor end of the cable the shield doesnt get connected to anything, and one wire gets connected to each sensor pin.
  5. 1 point

    Link atom to motec SDL dash?

    Try these. H8SR2071019 with CAN dash.pclr Dashmuckingaround CAN setup.U16
  6. 1 point
    @Khaled Abdurhman What vehicle do you have? Some vehicles tps is only an idle switch and wot switch, for example early model MX5 miatas.
  7. 1 point

    Link atom to motec SDL dash?

    Attach your ecu and dash config and I will set up the comms.
  8. 1 point
    First step will be to get the PC link tuning software connected to check what the MAP sensor is reading at key on engine not running. Fault 10 and 11 both relate to AN volt 1. It is indicating its at either ground or 5V it cant be both at the same time so there might be a setting issue.
  9. 1 point

    AUX output not triggering FP relay

    Most of the plug-in ecus dont have highside drives. The polarity setting just inverts the on/off logic. Matt, there is nothing special about Aux 3 on the GTR plug-in - it should behave as a normal aux. To confirm wiring is correct - If you touch the wire that controls FP relay #2 to ground does the pump turn on?
  10. 1 point

    Evo 6 jerky coming off throttle

    Calibrate your TPS so that off throttle is 0%, full throttle is 100% Is there any reason you are using Idle Ignition timing control? I see that you have a Idle Stepper Motor enabled on the Aux 5 - 8 outputs, if your unable to bring the idle down enough you might need to have a look at adjusting the throttle stop screw (to reduce bypass airflow) or adjust the idle bypass screw (if the vehicle has one). Can you do an up to date log with the changes you have made so far
  11. 1 point

    Evo 6 jerky coming off throttle

    As well as the changes that Leiden made, I would also suggest you make the changes in red below. This will prevent idle ignition kicking in while you are still driving.
  12. 1 point

    1jz vvti tune

    VVT looks pretty normal to me. You should post a log of it running though so we can confirm the VVT is actually working as commanded. Throttle response from idle I would suspect is more related to accel enrichment. Your accel settings look quite a bit weaker than what I have needed with a 2J. I will post a compare below, your settings in black or red text, mine in yellow. Also, your ignition timing looks very weak to me - especially for E20. Probably not the cause of your "poor throttle response" depending what you mean by that but it is going to make it drive fairly lethargic. I dont have any tuning experience with the 1JZ specifically, but comparing to a couple of 2J's I have done, my ignition table has up to 10deg more than yours in the low boost areas and those were on pump gas. On top of that you have a 4D ignition table pulling another 6deg out right through the mid range and transient ign retard table pulling another 4 deg out. So some areas you effectively have 16-20deg less advance than what Im used to seeing for a similar engine.
  13. 1 point
    UPDATE! So i have connected my Racepak IQ3 street dash finally after 3 days of tinkering around with the software. Turns out that when i installed the program from the USB Drive, I needed to download all other data for IQ3 dash configurations. It wasn't giving me the EFI channels for the Link ECU configuration. I followed the steps on Racepak's Datalink2 software to configure for link (emailed tech support) and then i configured Link with the instructions that Adamw posted above. I have only tested water temp and TPS so far. I have not checked if everything else works because I haven't finished setting up the ECU. i need a few more sensors before i start up the car. I appreciate the help!
  14. 1 point

    Windows version upgrade on tablet !!!!!!!

    It sounds like one of your configuration files in corrupt. Try copying the attached parameter config into your Link G4+ directory. If that doesnt work a re-install should fix it. DefaultParameterConfig.rtcr
  15. 1 point

    Log analysis improvement

    I like to add another point. I'm really missing a delta function where you have two cursors to see the difference between two points. Once GPS mapping is possible a distance mode for the X-axis will be needed, too.
  16. 1 point

    launch control setup - Subaru STI V7

    You didnt have a non driven wheel speed set up so that is why speed deactivation did not work. As far as I know the V7-9 does not have a clutch switch connected to the ECU so I have set it up to activate the launch limiter whenever speed is <10Kmh, using virtual aux 1. I have thrown some rough numbers in there as a starting point, it is up to your tuner to keep an eye on things and fine tune it. I have set the launch to 5500RPM, ign at 10ATDC and 10% extra fuel. Make sure you pray to the Subaru transmission god before every launch. LaunchControlsetupfile Rev A.pclr
  17. 1 point
    Basic set up instructions are in the help file > G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information . RacePak IQ3. If you have the old dash with the 8 pin Deutsch clug on the back then you will need a VNet module - either 230-VM-EFILINK or the universal one 230-VM-EFIUCAN. You will find instruction documents for setting up those modules if you google the part number. If you have the newer "street" dash which has the 34pin superseal connector on the back then you dont need the VNet module, CAN H&L can be connected directly to the ecu. Set up in datalink is much the same as the EFIUCAN module - you still need to set the ecu type to Link, then do a "read Vnet" procedure etc.
  18. 1 point

    G series turbo speed sensor

    Just for your info - all the common ones I have seen (garret & BW) have a "divide by 8" circuit built into the connector. I believe this was because back in the day most compressor wheels had 8 blades so it would output one pulse per rev. So your example would actuallly give a frequency of ~2100Hz. So, fine for a Thunder but too high for the smaller ECU's. @Booston If you dont have a Thunder you will have to do something like this:
  19. 1 point

    Evo 6 jerky coming off throttle

    +1 for what CJ said I try to do most of my idle ignition timing with the main ignition table, or at least have the idle ignition timing table somewhat close to what's in the main ignition table. Large jumps in timing can create the bucking/jerking you mentioned. If your looking for off idle throttle response you can set the cells above your normal idle vacuum cells higher than your idle ones, this also helps to create a smooth transition in timing. See the attached file for an example, I smoothed the timing a bit in the idle, cruise areas Leonid_smoothed.pclr
  20. 1 point

    4.4 v8 vdo bmw throttle body

    result number 1 in google search for 350z pedal pinout looks good https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/24/test-vq35-accelerator-pedal/
  21. 1 point

    Closed Loop A/c Idle Target

    You can already do this. In the CL idle speed control settings you can set the Base/Target table Mode to 3D. You will then get a new "Target RPM trim table". Put AC Clutch Aux out on one axis (1 means off, 2 means on). Then you can add say 100RPM to your closed loop target when AC is on.
  22. 1 point

    Flex Fuel Blends Calculations

    30% eth @9:1 with 70% petrol @ 14.4:1 would give you a stoichiometric ratio of about 12.78:1. Density will be about 0.758.
  23. 1 point

    Evo 6 jerky coming off throttle

    Narrowband lambda sensors are borderline useless for tuning - they just show rich or lean, but not a usable number. Interestingly yours reads lean for that entire log which is possible given you dont see any boost, but its a bit unlikely. A wideband sensor would make any tuning (outside of a dyno with its own sensors) a lot easier. What fuel pressure was this tuned at? The dead times used are for 45psi, and you are running very small pulse widths so this will have a big impact on low throttle/idle performance. You also dont have any short pulse adders configured, which will also really help given the low pulse widths. try putting in the 1050x data from here http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/4000074340-link-engine-management
  24. 1 point
    The ECU has a dedicated baro sensor on board this is displayed as BAP in the runtimes.
  25. 1 point

    Evo 6 jerky coming off throttle

    As a starting point set a speed threshold on your idle ignition timing (maybe around 10kph). Also drop the rpm threshold for this to somewhere around 1500. Whats happening right now is that as soon as you get off the gas pedal ignition idle turns on and immediately pulls all your ignition timing. There are probably a bunch more contributing factors I havent had time to check yet. Do you have a lambda sensor installed? its showing 0 the whole log. Also, can you please include injector effective pulse width as a logged parameter & fuel table 1 value? Or better yet set it to log all values if its a PC log.
  26. 1 point
    If you use the stream file I attached, it will read the data into Lambda1.
  27. 1 point

    Fury with toucan and starada 1.2

    Yes, you can just connect them both to the same CAN bus. Both use the same 1Mbit speed by default, AIM use a CAN ID of 1000 by default and the Toucan uses 1500 & 1501 by default so they will be all be happy together.
  28. 1 point
    If you read the instructions again you will see nowhere does it tell you to go to the CAN devices tab and hit the Find devices button. This function is only used for re-programming Link CAN devices. As per the instructions you should have a 120ohm resistor across the brown/white wires somewhere near the Spartan, although it will probably work ok without it. Have you turned off the analog input that you had assigned to Lambda 1 with the PLX? What does the CAN 1 section of the Runtimes screen show - any errors? What does the Lambda 1 status and temperature show on the ECU status tab of the runtimes screen?
  29. 1 point

    R8 Coil wiring

    For the main power/ground I have used 18AWG tefzel, but as I said above Im only running them at 8A peak. If you are a high boost turbo you may want to go to 16AWG. If using Tefzel wire, 18AWG is good for about 9A, 16AWG about 12A. Low temp PVC insulated wire would need to be bigger.
  30. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Pc link not saving my layouts

    It's probably because you don't have access permissions to save layouts to the default link folder (At the moment PC Link doesn't use the Users default write permission structure of Windows 10) If you go to options and click on the directories tab, then untick deafults for log files and layout files, then change the two folders to the ones you have write access for (probably documents\???), then you should be able to write/read layouts and logs. HTH, Richard.
  31. 1 point

    rb25det vct wiring

    It will need to be an ignition switched +12V source.
  32. 1 point

    rb25det vct wiring

    Blue wire/white trace is +. Comes in via the connector near the ecu, also powers idle control and narrow band 02.
  33. 1 point

    rb25det vct wiring

    The ECU only supplies the ground side, the +12V side comes from elsewhere in the car, most likely originally from the ignition switch or ECCS relay. You will have to find a wiring diagram that matches your model if you want to troubleshoot the existing wire.
  34. 1 point

    rb25det vct wiring

    Pin 113 is where we expect it to be
  35. 1 point

    Traction Control trigger wheels

    I'm using these. http://www.kasensors.com/sites/default/files/downloads/SP08 Wheel Speed 10.18.pdf
  36. 1 point

    Fuel pump controller setup

    In that case the recommended option would be to do it as per Richard Hills advice - keep it simple and only add complexity where it is needed. PWM is just going to add complexity and more tuning with no real benefit.
  37. 1 point

    Fuel Pressure Sensor recommendations

    That's a solid sensor. There are 15-20 cars local to me running the same one.
  38. 1 point

    Fuel pump controller setup

    What are you trying to achieve by PWM? Is it a noisy pump? Remember when you are idling and cruising fuel pressure is naturally lower so pump current is lower all on its own without any intervention.
  39. 1 point

    Fuel Pressure Sensor recommendations

    have a look on mouser or digikey for honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors. They come in various fittings including 1/8-27npt and pressure ranges up to 10bar. One of them is brass body and the other stainless but are otherwise very similar. Try to get the ones with Nitrile o-rings in them. Nitrile handles contact with fuel better. The spec sheet for these tells you which letter of the product code identifies the o-ring type. Dont buy the chinese copies of these from aliexpress/ebay/etc. Even if they are accurate on day 1, they very quickly (a few weeks) become bascially random number generators. The genuine ones are reliable howver, and provide good data sheets that are easy to set up in the link calibrations
  40. 1 point

    WRX phantom RPM limit problem

    Another thing you can try is set the trig2 lockout to below the point where your trigger issue often occurs. The ecu will then ignore the cam sensor above this RPM, if the error is related to the cam sensor or cam timing etc that may help.
  41. 1 point

    RPM 65535

    No, the dwell scatter is a symptom of a trigger error. It means the ECU isnt receiving the regular tooth pattern that it expects from the trigger. As I said earlier, the quickest way to find your problem is to get an oscilloscope capture of the triggers - preferably when it is playing up. The Oscilloscope will show us what is wrong with the waveform and this will usually give you some strong clues what is causing it. Do not waste time changing random parts - there could be many hundreds of different scenarios. Your logs show the ECU is not happy with the trigger so you need to start by diagnosing what it is about the trigger signal that the ECU it is not happy about.
  42. 1 point

    Boost solenoid valve advice

    Confession time: the hose I thought was going to the wastegate was going to compressor and the other way around I switched them around and now target boost seems to come around 25 % wastegate and controllable. I'm sorry to have wasted your time and to have driven the car in overboost dozens of times while trying to understand what's going on.... unfortunately I was just too sure of how those hoses were connected and I thought of any other complicated explanation but this. So car pulls strong and it seems that soon the tuning will be done. Next priority is getting the cold start decent but I'll meet you in other topics about that Thank you for your help and good luck! Best regards, Florin
  43. 1 point
    I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).
  44. 1 point

    Matching wire for flying lead harness.

    AVSS is what the wire is not ADSS. http://prd.sws.co.jp/cables/en/avss.html
  45. 1 point
    Hi Adam, Sorry for Zombie posting this but had a question regarding the CAN structure and CAN IDs. My friend makes a Gauge that was made for the Haltech originally. Uses a CAN ID+N similar to the Race Tech above. My question was, is there a way to address different CAN ID eg +1 +2 etc without needing to use a separate channel for each to specify the new CAN ID? At the moment we are using 3 channels with separate CAN IDs and a user stream on each, then they have a single frame on each stream with the parameters. We tried it with multiple frames on the one stream but the frames seemed to mix. So had to do above. We managed to get this working with minor changes to his code but would be nice to get all the streams onto one channel, without needing to completely rewrite the audrino code. Here is the gauge working with the multiple channels for a example. Regards Nick
  46. 1 point
    Why don't you see it being added? There's nothing overly complicated about it - it just averages a few sensor signal values. 10 year old Megasquirt software allows you to set an individual smoothing value for each input. Restrictors are not always practical/effective to add, such as in a water injection pressure.
  47. 1 point

    MINI LINK G4+ Borg Warner Speed sensor

    I drew this circuit for someone the other day. I havent tested it myself with a turbospeed sensor so no guarantees but I have used a similar circuit to divide a wheel speed frequency down. Over here you can buy the 4024 binary counter for about $1.50 from Jaycar so I assume they should be easy to find anywhere.
  48. 1 point

    DBW throttle on link g4+ celica st205

    If you are prepared to send it back to NZ, it can be modified by adding a couple of wire links to give you E-Throttle capability. We can also give you instructions to get it modified locally but you will lose your warranty if not performed by us.
  49. 1 point

    toyota 3S

    HI Kenny, You will need to set the Trigger Mode to Multitooth/Missing. Trig 1 will have a Tooth Count of 36 and a Missing Teeth of 2. The Multi-tooth Posn will be Crank. Trig 2 will have the Sync Mode set to Cam Pulse 1x.
  50. 1 point
    Hi Everyone, My V3 Sti RA has both Manual and Auto switches. Manual used to run trigger a spray for about 3 seconds, timing relay is now gone due to a knob trying to steal the car...Auto never worked for me, even prior to the Link G4 Plugin being installed. Anyways...thought I'd just re-wire the lot, and wire in the Link. Just wondering how others have done it? The more I think about it, the more ways I see it being possibly done. I'd like to have the Manual function utilise a timer in the link i.e. Wire the manual SW (momentary ON) to a DI, then set a timer so it sprays for say 3s. The Auto i'm thinking i'll link to IAT, so it sprays at say 70deg. I need the Auto SW (ON/OFF type) Â to be in the picture so I can disable the Spray for when I'm just cruising round otherwise I'll always be filling the reservoir! Plus my 'level SW' appears to not work anymore either, so my safety net of that stopping the pump run dry is gone. (side question, are these easy to track down?) The Link plug-in is tight for outputs as well, so I'm not sure I can do both functions through just one output or will I need two? I think I have one Aux Output (A/C clutch) and I could use one of the Aux - IGN outputs (don't need A/C fan). Got heaps of DI's free. Thanks in advance! Matt
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