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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    You can connect both 5v and 12v sensors (and VR sensors etc that have varying voltage output) all to the same sensor ground. The reason to chose 1 type of ground over another is not input voltage, but more: 1) how stable does the signal need to be for the engine to run well (crank trigger = really important, any of the temp sensors = not a big issue if the signal bounces around a few percent). And as part of this, will a ground offset cause an incorrect reading that still looks legit. (eg voltage offset on any analog sensor) 2) How much load is expected to go through the ground circuit. eg do not use a sensor ground as the ground side for a vtec solenoid or anything like that. As long as everything on the sensor grounds is low *current* then adding a flex fuel sensor to sensor ground wouldnt hurt, and generally anything that is an ECU *input* you would lean towards putting on the sensor ground circuits. But if you do see issues that seem like sensor noise once you add it, you can probably move the flex sensor to use a direct ground and not see too many issues. These dont report an analog output anyway so should work just fine with slightly noisy voltage/ground.
  2. 1 point

    Mixture Map

    my understanding is Overrun Fuel cut > 0.5 will only show cells where overrun is active. I usually set mine to show Overrun Fuel Cut < 1
  3. 1 point
    No, sorry not possible. Keyboard shortcut is "U" which may help if you didnt know that. You could set all the other pressure/temp/speed units the same so they dont change between metric/imperial and only lambda changes when you hit the U key...
  4. 1 point

    AUX Tacho output issue

    You have two aux outputs assigned as Tacho. You have the one on Aux 4 which would be correct for your application. But you also have one set on Aux Ign 5 If you set Aux Ign 5 to off and store all should be good.
  5. 1 point
    Have you done all the pre start process? Checking the injectors, trigger calibration, map sensor calibration and TPS calibration? If youve done all this i would check the trigger error counter? If you are not sure of this search trigger error in the PC link and it explains it all. Not sure of the COP conversion but also i would make sure the ignition setup is correct - i had a honda where the previous owner had set the mode to falling instead of rising as the hondas ignitor polarity is opposite to traditional falling setups.
  6. 1 point

    Internal logging issue

    I would add log status and log memory use to the ECU logging parameters.
  7. 1 point

    New ecu fitted but car won’t start

    You have 2 issues. First is the ecu does not control the starter motor in a s14. The ecu wont run when its locked.
  8. 1 point
    I ordered both. Thanks for the infos!
  9. 1 point
    George GEP

    Link ECU tuner Gauteng, South Africa

    if you are interested in remote tune, let me know.
  10. 1 point

    Gearbox oil temp with NTC temp sensor

    Yeah for temp sensors connected to analog inputs you need to use a custom cal table - usually cal 1, 2 or 3 is easiest. If you use a 1Kohm pull-up resistor then you can set the cal table input units to be ohms and enter the resistances from your workshop manual directly into the table and it will do the conversion to voltage math in the background. Most common Japanese sensors will be based on the bosch curve (you can confirm by measuring resistance of your sensor at 20degC it should be ~2500ohm). There are resistance and voltage tables for the most common sensors you can reference in the help file: Technical Terms and Reference > Sensor Calibrations
  11. 1 point
    Im assuming first the ECU is wired to a car and powered up... Incorrect or just junky USB OTG adapters is the most common problem I see with tablets. If you look in windows device manager under ports COM & LPT you should see a Link ECU listed in there when it is plugged in. If not then you have a connection/cable issue.
  12. 1 point

    Rb25det wont open injectors

    A couple big things 1) your map sensor calibration seems wrong. It should be approx equal to BAP when the engine is not running (so around 100). yours reads 7kpa absolute which is definitely wrong. 2) Your fuel table looks like it was originally for a traditional mode setup. Try copying the entire of fuel table1 from the monsoon base map instead. 3) As Henryy said, with Ethanol you need much more crank enrichment (even with a sensible fuel table). Probably in the 200-300% range at 10-20*C
  13. 1 point

    Rb25det wont open injectors

    As cj suggested your fuel config needs bigger numbers. I have RB25det + 900cc injectors + E85 and I have 196% on crank enrichment table at ECT=10. On fuel table I have ~26% at idle area (-100 kPa).
  14. 1 point

    Rb25det wont open injectors

    can you please post your pclr (config file) and a log of you trying to start it? First up, check that your injection mode is not still set to "disabled". How do you know they are not firing? Have you connected a test light in place of an injector, or are you just basing it no "no start + spark plugs are dry"? Its quite possible your fuel config just needs bigger numbers
  15. 1 point

    G4+ 2.5m loom

    It is a Japanese automotive standard wire known as AVSS. Thin insulation, rated for intermittent use at 120°C. 0.75mm2 for the Red and Black wires, 0.5mm2 for the rest. American grade TXL is quite similar.
  16. 1 point

    Water Pump PWM

    No, there are 4 terminals. 1 is constant 12V. 2 is the low current PWM signal from ecu. 3 & 4 are both constant ground (it differentiates signal and power ground but fine to connect them both to chassis).
  17. 1 point

    Link- Can Lambda

    Your current Map and a log file will help tech support with fixing your issue.
  18. 1 point

    Water Pump PWM

    Correct except there are 2 grounds. And a GP PWM is lowside drive only. But as I mentioned earlier these work fine connected directly to an aux out, they donot need a pull-up or anything. You dont need the controller that mldc attached - this would be for someone that wants to control the pump without an ECU. What diagram are you looking at? On the pump there should be a 4 pin plug, +12V, a power gnd, a signal ground and a PWM signal. There is no tach output. The G4+ PWM outputs cant do highside drive, only low side. The Aux outputs already have a 1.5Kohm pull-up internally.
  19. 1 point

    Water Pump PWM

    I'm running a CWA50 in my car as a chargecooler pump, so the flow varies based on engine RPM and IAT. Here's my configuration:
  20. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Water Pump PWM

    That isn't the pump manual, The 500mA current specified is the maximum output of the TinyCWA controller, not the current consumption of the PWM input pin on the pump (which will be much lower). You can control these pumps with either a high side aux, or if none available you could use a low side (I would add a 10k pull up resistor in the pump connector) Also, worth noting these pumps should be installed as low as possible and work best in a "reverse flow" configuration as they cannot suck air, and so will fail to pump if coolant levels are low and mounted in the top hose HTH, Richard.
  21. 1 point

    rb26 missfire, jerk

    If you go into advanced settings for the boost cut you can narrow down the threshold which the cut activates
  22. 1 point

    Modelled fuel

    Those injectors have a dead time of .67-.68 ms at 14v.
  23. 1 point

    Modelled fuel

    Definitely put in the tested value. If you want really good accuracy though then it's good to have a fuel pressure sensor so it can work out the fuel pressure differential accurately. As mechanical FPR can fluctuate a little. Your deadtimes being accurate will be a big make or break for accuracy of your fuel consumption though.
  24. 1 point


    Hello, I have swapped the stock 3sfe to a 3sge redtop beams in my 1991 Toyota Camry and in the process of converting it to a 5 speed manual. So I decided to get a standalone system for it, got a link g4+ fury and need some help figuring out how to set up a base map/tune it?
  25. 1 point

    E throttle Jetski

    Yep, actuator means the motor itself on the throttle. This will be wired to ethrottle+ and - Internal to the ECU, these 2 outputs are special in that they draw their power from a separate supply (the B5 pin mentioned above). The ECU expects there to be a relay (as per the above diagram) that is feeding power to B5, and it also expects to be able to cut off that power by disabling an aux output - so one has to be configured for this.
  26. 1 point

    g4X Monsoon unlock issue

    When PC link was installed did you put it in the default locations?
  27. 1 point

    From G4 storm to monsoon X

    We added Semi-Sequential as a mode to keep the unused pins free for other aux uses.
  28. 1 point

    g4X Monsoon unlock issue

    Hi, what directory have you installed PCLink to?
  29. 1 point

    Injector Setup

    I havent double checked those values for you , but if you copied those values from a hondata base map they are probably pretty accurate. I've done the same thing myself a few times and things have worked well. Just make sure it was a hondata tune with 270's and not 310's or whatever the newer ones were. Also, the voltage breakpoints in the hondata tunes are different than link default so you have to adjust your axes in the link config or play with excel a bit
  30. 1 point

    Two-stroke aux injectors

    Ok, below is a basic made-up example. To explain, fuel table 1 is the main VE table, this basically tells the ecu how much air the engine is inhalling (assuming it was naturally aspirated). If you set the fuel load equation source to "MAP", then this table is multiplied by MAP in the background, so even though it only has TP on the VE table axis, if you double the manifold pressure the ECU already knows there is double the air going in and therefore adds double the fuel. The calculated fuel pulse width is also further multiplied by the Lambda target table in the background, so this compensates for the fact that you normally want a richer mixture at say 200Kpa and 100%TP, than you would want at 100Kpa and 100%TP. Since the turbo creates back pressure on the exhaust side and may effect volumetric efficiency, you may find that as you increase boost more and more the fuel mixture will start to drift off target, to fix this you have the 4D fuel table. The 4D fuel table is an "adder". So if you have "10" in a cell it adds a further 10% fuel in that region, if you have a "-10" it removes 10% fuel in that region. You would set up this table with MAP Vs RPM, usually most of this table will be zero and you will only have to tune a few cells in the high RPM/High boost corner to get the fuel mixture right at all boost levels you intend to run. To tune these two tables, you start with the 4D table all set to zero, run engine on lowest boost possible (wastegate spring only) and tune the main VE table all over. Then increase boost say 50kpa and run engine, through whole RPM range, adjust the relevant row of the 4D fuel table if it needs some fuel added or removed at the top end. Repeat at higher boost levels until you are at the maximum you intend to run. After the ecu has calculated the correct fuel volume that needs to be added, then you can choose how you want to split that between primary and secondary injectors. Again this is very flexible, these can be the same size or different sized injectors, you can have both injectors spraying half the fuel each or you can have all fuel going through the secondary inj at high RPM or whatever you like. In the example below I have primary and secondary injectors both the same size. I have all fuel going through the primary below 100Kpa MAP, then above 100Kpa I fade in the secondaries and by 180Kpa I have half the fuel going through the primary and half through the secondary.
  31. 1 point

    Injector Setup

    Set short pulse width adder to 0, with such small injectors they will never be operating with a short pulse width so it doesnt matter. Injector flow @ rated pressure will be 270cc & 300Kpa. Set base fuel pressure to whatever static fuel pressure you are running (with engine off).
  32. 1 point

    From G4 storm to monsoon X

    Set it to semi-sequential will give you the same set-up as before.
  33. 1 point

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Without this the ECU will turn off as soon as ign is turned off so the stepper cant re-zero itself. This means next start up it will not be in the position the ECU believes it to be and will mess up idle control a lot. So this is the first thing that needs to be fixed before we can really diagnose if there is an idle problem. As per Ducies advice, 5 seconds will do. Do us another log after changing this. Edit, added later: In both places it nearly stalled the fan had just turned on as it came down to idle, Your fan step is set to 70 (crazy number?) but the idle valve only changed by about 3 steps - did you change this setting after the fact? Your fan is turning on/off a lot so I would set the hysteresis higher so that doesnt happen as often. You will want to set the fan step properly. It looks like overrun fuel cut is also playing a part. I would either turn it off temporarily to see how much it is interfering or bump up the highlighted cells to about 1800RPM.
  34. 1 point

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    In the help file type in Stepper Reset, explains 2 different ways for a reset. 5 sec hold time should be enough i reckon. I would give it a clean first so it give repeatable results. I would also target a slightly richer AFR at idle until you get the idle sorted .95 is always my start point until i get idle stable.
  35. 1 point

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Few things i've noticed While your dead time are correct you don't have any figures in the SPAT. You have got the idle stepper reset on key off but don't have a ecu hold time.
  36. 1 point
    It cant be done unfortunately (would be nice to be able to I agree). Most people have a google or onedrive account these days, so the easiest option is often just log into your drive, choose upload file, right click and "share link". Pretty sure dropbox is the same but if you dont have an account you will need o register etc. Also, wetransfer is another easy option - just go to the website, click add file, then get link.
  37. 1 point

    G4+ Thunder High side driven GP PWM

    Yeah, I was just going to say the same thing... The PWM Aux out is a low side drive, but it is pulled up to 12V when "off". Depending on how much current the alternator control circuit needs it will possibly work as is without anything extra. If that doesnot have enough grunt to drive it then all you will need to do is wire in an extra pull-up resistor. Something like this I would expect would be plenty:
  38. 1 point
    The CAN H/L are the communication wires - these are the only 2 wires that get connected to the ECU. The Red/black are to supply power to the wideband controller, for these you need to find your own source in the car - normally would be connected to a relay/fuse that is only live when the ign switch is on. Yes, you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor connected across the Can H/L wires somewhere near the wideband connector.
  39. 1 point

    Jeep Cherokee with link g4 storm

    There are a few things wrong in your tune, first up the ones that might cause it not to start 1) you mention you are using a distributor, but the ignition config is set up for wasted spark. This must match what is physically there 2) have you run the trigger1 calibration process? Have you tried adding/removing 360 from the calibrated number to check if you are firing on the exhaust stroke? other issues that wont help but are probably not the real root cause. The calibrations on your ECT, MAP, and probably IAT are all a bit suspect. Your MAP sensor should read the same as BAP with the engine off. Yours reads 15kpa higher. both IAT and ECT show ~40C which is really hot for ambient, but maybe normal in you part of the world, but, your ECT calibration maxes out at 100C which is no where near enough and probably means its incorrect. That your IAT matches this makes me question whether it's wrong too. Your fuel map is all 50's everywhere. try copying the fuel table from the monsoon example base map as a better starting point. ECT & MAP being off by small amounts & the fuel thing wont cause no-start, but it will cause it to run like a dog once it does.
  40. 1 point
    That is a G1 based ecu. It is about 20 years old. Im pretty sure all the Integralink ECU's were laptop tunable but you will need a "Serial Link" box and either a laptop with a serial port or a USB>serial adapter. You will find a manual for it in the G1 section of the forum here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2527. Tuning software is on the Link website, PC Link V2.5. There will not be many tuners around that are interested in tuning them anymore so you will probably have to shop around.
  41. 1 point

    G4+ Thunder engine bay installation issues

    That's a pretty key piece of the puzzle there. I've never engine bay mounted one, but have put them in some pretty cramped corners of cabins and the internal temps have stayed <40C so I dont think they generate enough heat on their own to cause a problem if you insulated it. Having another look at your pics, you could get a thin sheet of alloy and bolt it between the ECU and the engine, and have the front section run 45* across to behind the headlight so it blocks radiator air, kind of like a lot of people do to shield cold air intakes. You may even be able to run a ducting tube to pick up clean air and run it into the ECU side of the alloy sheild if its still getting a little bit hot.
  42. 1 point
    Another way to work around the missing inputs on the Thunder (or to divide an input frequency down on other ECUs) is to use a CMOS 4018 IC. No external components required and can be powered from the ECUs +5 Volt supply. To divide by 10, the inverted Q5 output is fed back into the data input pin. I used this last week to divide by 8 on a fury (I fed back the inverted Q4 pin to data) Hope this helps, Richard.
  43. 1 point

    Cruise Control Setup

    Hi Davidv Actually I used Switch that has ON output is 0 volt and I already set in An Volt to 0 volt also. But when I press ON button, nothing happen. For more information, I setup the AnV Error Low = 0.00 , High = 5.00, and Error Value = 5.00 V Thank you very much
  44. 1 point
    Jurgen Biggelaar

    engine fan setup for g4

    ^+1 Best explanation I have seen for ages Rod. Actually there are 3 ways you can test... Rod's ways will all work, and there is nothing wrong with those, or the feature designed to test something for instances JUST like this Option #3. Use the 'Test On' function on that auxillary (select 'test on' as the function and 'high' or 'low' side as an option. But there could also be another thing at play here. If this is a plug in G4, it is very possible it may not be able to high side drive anything that the OEM set up didn't usually. What G4 unit do you have Robert. Jurgen
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