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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    Thunder lambda wiring - 12v

    Here are some measurements from a single 4.9 Lambda sensor running on a Thunder on the bench. The maximum the sensor drew was 1.43A at the end of the heating phase
  2. 1 point
    cj

    Fuel Pressure Sensor recommendations

    have a look on mouser or digikey for honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors. They come in various fittings including 1/8-27npt and pressure ranges up to 10bar. One of them is brass body and the other stainless but are otherwise very similar. Try to get the ones with Nitrile o-rings in them. Nitrile handles contact with fuel better. The spec sheet for these tells you which letter of the product code identifies the o-ring type. Dont buy the chinese copies of these from aliexpress/ebay/etc. Even if they are accurate on day 1, they very quickly (a few weeks) become bascially random number generators. The genuine ones are reliable howver, and provide good data sheets that are easy to set up in the link calibrations
  3. 1 point
    Adamw

    WRX phantom RPM limit problem

    Another thing you can try is set the trig2 lockout to below the point where your trigger issue often occurs. The ecu will then ignore the cam sensor above this RPM, if the error is related to the cam sensor or cam timing etc that may help.
  4. 1 point
    @Serkan Thanks for getting back to us with that info. Good to know it was resolved.
  5. 1 point
    Simon

    WRX phantom RPM limit problem

    It is likely getting noise on the trigger signals so could be a coil breaking down causing noise and then the RPM error. I'm assuming this is an older install and it has developed over time.
  6. 1 point
    Hi sorry for being late to reply. In both my cases I concluded that there were problems with the wiring. In the first car, there was a problem with the solder of the sensor ground, in the second car the throttle plug was not seating fully into the socket. In both cases there was electrical continuity most of the time but from what I understand the e throttle system is VERY sensitive. The solder problem and the problem with the plug were randomly creating just enough resistance to trigger the fault. Fixed the problems, re calibrated and no more faults ever since. Hope it helps !
  7. 1 point
    Adamw

    WRC Launch control

    Do you have a DI engine like all those cars? They dont do anything too special, although their launch control strategy will include significant DBW throttle control as well as the normal ign & fuel cuts but mostly they are not popping and banging like a port injected engine because with DI you can use much more fuel cut without the normal wall wetting delays.
  8. 1 point
    Adamw

    Subaru WRX 2004 with link ecu 44s

    The 44S ecu is a G1 based ECU so I have moved your post to the G1 section. You will find the manual for the PossumLink 44S in the section at the top labelled "G1 Manuals". You will need to use PC Link V2.5 for this ECU. Im pretty sure the G3 drivers should work ok with the Comlink so check in device manager that the comlink shows up under Ports - COM & LPT. Note from memory the Comlink must be assigned to comport COM1-9. If it is not looking happy in device manager then post back and I will find a driver that should work.
  9. 1 point
    Adamw

    Nissan 350z Link G4+ ABS problems

    Sera, this sounds like a problem we have seen before. It seems there are some specific 350Z's where the ABS ecu throws a wobbly if it doesnot get an acknowledge from the engine ecu within a few mS of power up. It is thought the Link ECU takes slightly longer than the factory ECU to send out CAN messages after boot up. It seems rare but I remember seeing 2 or 3 cases in the few years I worked for Link. The fix is to wire a relay in to the ABS ecu power supply wiring, so during cranking the ABS ecu power is cut - it then reboots, gets its acknowledge from the engine ecu straight away and is all happy. I will PM you a document describing what needs to be done.
  10. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Simon, seriously mate, take the Horsepower Acadamy courses. You already seem to have a fair idea what you are looking at. HPA will simplify the whole process for you, break it down into a couple of main areas and give you the skills and confidence to slowly sort out this nightmare properly yourself. Not only will you gain a fuller understanding of fuel and ignition requirements, all your trims and enrichments, boost set up etc, they also do full video demonstrations on all aspects of tuning on many different platforms and those videos are available to watch over and over.
  11. 1 point
    cj

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hi Simon, I didnt see your pclr file when I posted that info. After having a second look with the pclr loaded as well I can see what you mean about the fuel pressure. The pressure itself isnt technically a problem as 3.5bar is a pretty normal pressure level, however the flow rate, deadtimes and short pulse width tables are taken from the 3bar table in the ID1700 data instead of 3.5bar. The fuel flow number is probably the only one having a real impact here. Unfortunately you cant really change either these parameters or the fuel pressure without re-checking the entire fuel tune. Changing the fuel pressure down at the regulator is more likely to be acceptable given you have everything FP sensor controlled, but its still something you want to be careful with as you could cause it to go leaner under load. I can also now see what you mean about the -12% ish CL correction to your idle fuelling. you could try dropping the fuel table values for both table 1 & table 2 at these cells & smoothing it into the cells near it. Better yet would be to disable CLL for a while. Go drive around smoothly for a bit (so there is constant load in each cell for a few seconds) then at the end of the run use the mixture map feature to adjust mostly table 2 (current E85 mixture means you are interpolating 90 odd % out of fuel table 2 so its really the only 1 that matters. Turn CLL back on after you've done this. CLL isnt active at cruise because the RPM high limit is set to 1500rpm. That being said, it still looks to me like at cruise RPM & TPS your lambda values are pretty close to target - between 0.94 & 1.0 which seems ok. If the CLL high rpm threshold was bumped up to around 3k or 3.5k this would probably correct itself. You would probably want to drop the TPS high threshold down to 50 or 70% so you dont run CLL under full throttle. It seems your fuelling is reasonable at full throttle, although there isnt much time spent at WOT in the log to be sure. For the cold start issues, you can try just upping the max idle valve % up to say 70 and see if this improves things. Your idle is a little below target at this point too so this might fix that. regarding the feeling of it still having power when off throttle, this wont be lambda related. Only things that cause this (apart from air leaks) are faulty/too small recirc valves, idle screw set too far open, idle valve numbers too high, or ignition advance too high. Easiest one to change is dropping the values in ign1 & 2 table for the row that represents your off-throttle MAP value. The lower you drop this the less power will be generated by the engine to "keep pushing the car". How long does this effect last for? your fuel cut is set to kick in after 0.2seconds which should cut power a lot. Your cruise log @ 26:54 shows fuel pressure dropping off a fair bit. You'd need to hold it at that level for a few seconds to see if it stablised or kept dropping off. Maybe the lines are too small? maybe low amperage at the pumps if its factory wiring?
  12. 1 point
    Adamw

    AVCS cams playing up Subaru STI

    VVT mode is set to Evo 9. I should be set to "Subaru AVCS EJ20".
  13. 1 point
    Sorry I haven't logged in for ages. Have just seen your comments are re-uploaded photos, should all be good now.
  14. 1 point
    cj.surr

    PC Link closes Tune file when connecting

    I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).
  15. 1 point
    Note, it sounds like you have some other (possibly wiring) problem from what you describe, but just FYI, you do not need a custom cal table for that sensor. Just set the calibration to "1000Kpa (150psi) TI sensor".
  16. 1 point
    Another way to work around the missing inputs on the Thunder (or to divide an input frequency down on other ECUs) is to use a CMOS 4018 IC. No external components required and can be powered from the ECUs +5 Volt supply. To divide by 10, the inverted Q5 output is fed back into the data input pin. I used this last week to divide by 8 on a fury (I fed back the inverted Q4 pin to data) Hope this helps, Richard.
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