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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/29/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    AEM Water/Meth Boost Safe

    Can wire that wire into a digital input on the ecu. Then could configure the ecu to change boost, timing, and fuel values when that is active.
  2. 2 points

    Fuel film modelling in G4X line

    Accel fuel has been changed to a simplified X-Tau model
  3. 1 point

    E throttle Jetski

    Yep, actuator means the motor itself on the throttle. This will be wired to ethrottle+ and - Internal to the ECU, these 2 outputs are special in that they draw their power from a separate supply (the B5 pin mentioned above). The ECU expects there to be a relay (as per the above diagram) that is feeding power to B5, and it also expects to be able to cut off that power by disabling an aux output - so one has to be configured for this.
  4. 1 point

    g4X Monsoon unlock issue

    When PC link was installed did you put it in the default locations?
  5. 1 point

    From G4 storm to monsoon X

    We added Semi-Sequential as a mode to keep the unused pins free for other aux uses.
  6. 1 point

    g4X Monsoon unlock issue

    Hi, what directory have you installed PCLink to?
  7. 1 point

    Injector Setup

    I havent double checked those values for you , but if you copied those values from a hondata base map they are probably pretty accurate. I've done the same thing myself a few times and things have worked well. Just make sure it was a hondata tune with 270's and not 310's or whatever the newer ones were. Also, the voltage breakpoints in the hondata tunes are different than link default so you have to adjust your axes in the link config or play with excel a bit
  8. 1 point

    Two-stroke aux injectors

    Ok, below is a basic made-up example. To explain, fuel table 1 is the main VE table, this basically tells the ecu how much air the engine is inhalling (assuming it was naturally aspirated). If you set the fuel load equation source to "MAP", then this table is multiplied by MAP in the background, so even though it only has TP on the VE table axis, if you double the manifold pressure the ECU already knows there is double the air going in and therefore adds double the fuel. The calculated fuel pulse width is also further multiplied by the Lambda target table in the background, so this compensates for the fact that you normally want a richer mixture at say 200Kpa and 100%TP, than you would want at 100Kpa and 100%TP. Since the turbo creates back pressure on the exhaust side and may effect volumetric efficiency, you may find that as you increase boost more and more the fuel mixture will start to drift off target, to fix this you have the 4D fuel table. The 4D fuel table is an "adder". So if you have "10" in a cell it adds a further 10% fuel in that region, if you have a "-10" it removes 10% fuel in that region. You would set up this table with MAP Vs RPM, usually most of this table will be zero and you will only have to tune a few cells in the high RPM/High boost corner to get the fuel mixture right at all boost levels you intend to run. To tune these two tables, you start with the 4D table all set to zero, run engine on lowest boost possible (wastegate spring only) and tune the main VE table all over. Then increase boost say 50kpa and run engine, through whole RPM range, adjust the relevant row of the 4D fuel table if it needs some fuel added or removed at the top end. Repeat at higher boost levels until you are at the maximum you intend to run. After the ecu has calculated the correct fuel volume that needs to be added, then you can choose how you want to split that between primary and secondary injectors. Again this is very flexible, these can be the same size or different sized injectors, you can have both injectors spraying half the fuel each or you can have all fuel going through the secondary inj at high RPM or whatever you like. In the example below I have primary and secondary injectors both the same size. I have all fuel going through the primary below 100Kpa MAP, then above 100Kpa I fade in the secondaries and by 180Kpa I have half the fuel going through the primary and half through the secondary.
  9. 1 point

    Injector Setup

    Set short pulse width adder to 0, with such small injectors they will never be operating with a short pulse width so it doesnt matter. Injector flow @ rated pressure will be 270cc & 300Kpa. Set base fuel pressure to whatever static fuel pressure you are running (with engine off).
  10. 1 point

    From G4 storm to monsoon X

    Set it to semi-sequential will give you the same set-up as before.
  11. 1 point

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Without this the ECU will turn off as soon as ign is turned off so the stepper cant re-zero itself. This means next start up it will not be in the position the ECU believes it to be and will mess up idle control a lot. So this is the first thing that needs to be fixed before we can really diagnose if there is an idle problem. As per Ducies advice, 5 seconds will do. Do us another log after changing this. Edit, added later: In both places it nearly stalled the fan had just turned on as it came down to idle, Your fan step is set to 70 (crazy number?) but the idle valve only changed by about 3 steps - did you change this setting after the fact? Your fan is turning on/off a lot so I would set the hysteresis higher so that doesnt happen as often. You will want to set the fan step properly. It looks like overrun fuel cut is also playing a part. I would either turn it off temporarily to see how much it is interfering or bump up the highlighted cells to about 1800RPM.
  12. 1 point

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    In the help file type in Stepper Reset, explains 2 different ways for a reset. 5 sec hold time should be enough i reckon. I would give it a clean first so it give repeatable results. I would also target a slightly richer AFR at idle until you get the idle sorted .95 is always my start point until i get idle stable.
  13. 1 point

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Few things i've noticed While your dead time are correct you don't have any figures in the SPAT. You have got the idle stepper reset on key off but don't have a ecu hold time.
  14. 1 point
    It cant be done unfortunately (would be nice to be able to I agree). Most people have a google or onedrive account these days, so the easiest option is often just log into your drive, choose upload file, right click and "share link". Pretty sure dropbox is the same but if you dont have an account you will need o register etc. Also, wetransfer is another easy option - just go to the website, click add file, then get link.
  15. 1 point

    G4+ Thunder High side driven GP PWM

    Yeah, I was just going to say the same thing... The PWM Aux out is a low side drive, but it is pulled up to 12V when "off". Depending on how much current the alternator control circuit needs it will possibly work as is without anything extra. If that doesnot have enough grunt to drive it then all you will need to do is wire in an extra pull-up resistor. Something like this I would expect would be plenty:
  16. 1 point
    The CAN H/L are the communication wires - these are the only 2 wires that get connected to the ECU. The Red/black are to supply power to the wideband controller, for these you need to find your own source in the car - normally would be connected to a relay/fuse that is only live when the ign switch is on. Yes, you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor connected across the Can H/L wires somewhere near the wideband connector.
  17. 1 point

    Jeep Cherokee with link g4 storm

    There are a few things wrong in your tune, first up the ones that might cause it not to start 1) you mention you are using a distributor, but the ignition config is set up for wasted spark. This must match what is physically there 2) have you run the trigger1 calibration process? Have you tried adding/removing 360 from the calibrated number to check if you are firing on the exhaust stroke? other issues that wont help but are probably not the real root cause. The calibrations on your ECT, MAP, and probably IAT are all a bit suspect. Your MAP sensor should read the same as BAP with the engine off. Yours reads 15kpa higher. both IAT and ECT show ~40C which is really hot for ambient, but maybe normal in you part of the world, but, your ECT calibration maxes out at 100C which is no where near enough and probably means its incorrect. That your IAT matches this makes me question whether it's wrong too. Your fuel map is all 50's everywhere. try copying the fuel table from the monsoon example base map as a better starting point. ECT & MAP being off by small amounts & the fuel thing wont cause no-start, but it will cause it to run like a dog once it does.
  18. 1 point
    That is a G1 based ecu. It is about 20 years old. Im pretty sure all the Integralink ECU's were laptop tunable but you will need a "Serial Link" box and either a laptop with a serial port or a USB>serial adapter. You will find a manual for it in the G1 section of the forum here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2527. Tuning software is on the Link website, PC Link V2.5. There will not be many tuners around that are interested in tuning them anymore so you will probably have to shop around.
  19. 1 point

    Virtual aux trigger check engine light

    Added "Custom CEL functions" a few weeks back, no ETA but it's in there.
  20. 1 point

    Virtual aux trigger check engine light

    I agree, it would be nice to have a more configurable driver warning light function. Some ecu's I work with have a table or check list where you can select which situations or sensors will trigger a warning. @Davidv. I know its not exactly what you want, but just in case you didnt think of this, I often do something like below to give the CE light output multiple functions:
  21. 1 point

    Pnp Ecu

    March to June I'm told.
  22. 1 point

    Link Knock block

    I dont think I have ever seen a knock sensor fail. You will know when it is not working as you wont hear the engine noise in your ear anymore.
  23. 1 point

    BMW ITA calibration

    Yes that sensor normally uses the Hella calibration. The resistance curve for the hella sensor is in the help file if you wanted to measure yours at a couple of points to verify it matches (ice and boiling water is normally a good reference).
  24. 1 point

    Kiggly 12 tooth Crank trigger Setup

    The Offset figure will depend on which cam tooth has been removed. But this can be found relatively quickly when doing the timing calibration. Also note that you will need to change the wiring for the Tacho to a available Aux output on the ECU as in stock format it is driven from the crank signal on our plugin.
  25. 1 point

    rb25 no spark

    It comes down to the coil as to what the needed dwell is going to be. I would assume that table is for stock coils. If the dwell is too short you loose spark energy. If it is too long you risk overheating the coils. I would try increased dwell time and see if it improves. While keeping an eye on the coil temps.
  26. 1 point

    Wiring g1 plus into 4agze

    These are the old G1 docs for the 4AGZE. The loom colours changed over time so for the ECU wiring go off location in the main header. 4AGZE.pdf
  27. 1 point

    Falcon 5L cam and crank sensor connection?

    You can work out the polarity relatively easy with a volt meter. Put the leads across the sensor and then bring a steal ruler or bolt up to and then past the sensor. You are looking for a positive voltage spike as the item come towards the sensor and then negative as it moves away. If it is reversed then swap the meter leads over. The positive meter lead then indicates the trigger pin and the other is the sensor ground.
  28. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    ECUMaster CAN Lambda working ?

    Here is one i put together. It was done a few months ago with a pre-production unit, so might need to check that nothing has changed. HTH, Richard. EcumasterWBO.lcs
  29. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    input output change situation

    DBW will be dependent on board revision. AVCS, oil and fuel pressure shouldnt be an issue once you shuffle the I/O around. Turbo speed will work if you get a frequency divider as it will get higher than the digital input will allow.
  30. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    input output change situation

    You can use VVT (AVCS) on auxs 1 to 4 and vvt sensors on digital inputs 1 to 4, so you might need to move other functions off those pins. No, you can not reassign inputs to outputs or digital input to an analog input, you will need to repin. You can however reassign an analog input to a temperature input (you will need to add a pull up resistor as only temp. Inputs have these internally.) HTH, Richard.
  31. 1 point

    ECU for 1ZZ

    K's are stored on the cluster, if they're not showing there's likely a fuse blown. ECU is not needed for the heater to function
  32. 1 point

    Nissan speedo signal

    Google once again is your friend...
  33. 1 point

    Nissan speedo signal

    Sorry, I don’t normally use that pic host but sometimes have to when my normal one is not available. I’m overseas for a couple of weeks but should still have that pic at home or I can do the test again and redraw something. Give me a reminder in about 10 days.
  34. 1 point

    Trigger scope issue

    Ok, trigger 2 voltage is quite low so set trigger 2 arming threshold to 0.2v @ 0rpm and 0.5v @ 1000rpm. It would be strongly suggested to remove one tooth from the dizzy for the most robust triggering but it may run with the duratec mode. You will need to check trigger offset with a timing light.
  35. 1 point
    As CJ says it is most likely a wiring problem based on the dash lights. Quickest way to confirm the ecu is ok is to remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Easiest way to power it up is to find the big barrel shaped tvs diode near the main header, clip +12v to the leg on the striped end and clip ground onto the other end. You will see the led light come on if all ok. The marks on the mosfets in your picture are just air bubbles or runs in the conformal coating.
  36. 1 point
    On subaru's the dash lights staying on after the key is turned off is usually caused by bad grounds, and it means a bunch of systems are grounding out through places they shouldnt be. The real question is why did your fuse blow? if you overloaded a circuit with too big of a stereo thats one thing, but if you have a short somewhere still in the car all kinds of things could be happening. do you see the power LED on the link light up when you turn the key on? have you checked power & ground to the ECU is still ok?
  37. 1 point

    Problem with Ecu log

    There is no easy way to create the transient timer filter that I can think of at present since tp delta is not available for use as a virtual aux condition. The only work around I can think of that I’ve used in the past for odd tricks is if you have an ecu with 2 CAN ports you can connect them together, send tp delta out of can 1 and receive it into can 2 as a CAN AN V then use that for your virtual aux.
  38. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    1994 sr20det to S15 LINK set up

    I think I made a link stream for the haltech wideband controller. I will have a look. Regards, Richard.
  39. 1 point

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    Now running 12lbs. with a smaller blower pulley and nothing has come out the side. Yet......
  40. 1 point

    G4+ Thunder engine bay installation issues

    That's a pretty key piece of the puzzle there. I've never engine bay mounted one, but have put them in some pretty cramped corners of cabins and the internal temps have stayed <40C so I dont think they generate enough heat on their own to cause a problem if you insulated it. Having another look at your pics, you could get a thin sheet of alloy and bolt it between the ECU and the engine, and have the front section run 45* across to behind the headlight so it blocks radiator air, kind of like a lot of people do to shield cold air intakes. You may even be able to run a ducting tube to pick up clean air and run it into the ECU side of the alloy sheild if its still getting a little bit hot.
  41. 1 point
    Is there a timeline for the black storm?
  42. 1 point

    Cruise Control Setup

    Hi Davidv Actually I used Switch that has ON output is 0 volt and I already set in An Volt to 0 volt also. But when I press ON button, nothing happen. For more information, I setup the AnV Error Low = 0.00 , High = 5.00, and Error Value = 5.00 V Thank you very much
  43. 1 point
    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
  44. 1 point
    Jurgen Biggelaar

    engine fan setup for g4

    ^+1 Best explanation I have seen for ages Rod. Actually there are 3 ways you can test... Rod's ways will all work, and there is nothing wrong with those, or the feature designed to test something for instances JUST like this Option #3. Use the 'Test On' function on that auxillary (select 'test on' as the function and 'high' or 'low' side as an option. But there could also be another thing at play here. If this is a plug in G4, it is very possible it may not be able to high side drive anything that the OEM set up didn't usually. What G4 unit do you have Robert. Jurgen
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