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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/01/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Thanks guys for the quick response! I have to say the help documentation is some of the best I've ever seen for a bit of control equipment. Keep it up!
  2. 2 points
    Confused

    cut at 5k rpm (log inside )

    Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.
  3. 2 points
    You are correct, spark duration and arc duration are the same thing. In your case this setting may only just start to come into play a high rpm. The spark duration setting usually only comes in to play when you have a distributor with single coil and more than 4 cylinders. It is used to shorten the dwell at high RPM when there is not enough time to both charge the coil and spark for the full duration. As an example think of a V8 with a distributor running at 6000RPM. At 6000RPM one engine cycle (two crank revs) takes 20ms. All 8 cylinders have to fire in that time. Lets say your coil needs 2ms of dwell to charge and the spark lasts for 1.0ms. You have to do that 8 times in those 2 revolutions, 8 x 3ms = 24ms - but wait - you only have 20ms to do that in? The ECU cant do anything about the spark so if it knows how long the spark needs and there is not enough time then it can shorten the dwell to make everything fit into the time that is available. A rotary in direct spark mode at 8000RPM will have 7.5ms of cycle time to charge and spark. So if you have a spark duration of 2.9ms that leaves you with about 4.6ms for dwell. You generally dont need much more than 3ms on those coils unless very high boost or Methanol. With it set at 2.0ms now is not a big problem because as you can see it is quite likely you are not running into cycle time issues anyway.
  4. 2 points
    Adamw

    Knock strategy with sequential gearbox

    Here's a quick video to give you an example. Gear shift knock.mp4
  5. 1 point
    Apex Speed Tech

    Lambda CAN issues

    Nope, even easier. The car has individual throttle bodies with idle bleeds going to a common manifold. The mechanic who assembled everything left a large (8mm) vacuum port open under bank 1 which caused a huge leak, which he compensated for by adjusting the blades so one bank was completely sealed off while the other was drawing air through the leak. That bank was getting so much air the car still idled at 1500 RPM with 0 degrees of timing only running on 1/2 its cylinders. I got thrown off because I didn't realize the lambda heaters needed exhaust temp to help them get to 780 before they'd time out. Either way I learned something today: A non-firing bank on Link won't just read "off the scale lean" but will not allow the heater to reach temp in time. Cheers, Neel
  6. 1 point
    Just a normal drive with some of these idle problems captured will do.
  7. 1 point
    TechDave

    Ethrottle span beyond 0 and 100 %

    I just tried it, works great. There is no error state for the E-Throttle going outside of bounds.
  8. 1 point
    That would be an option, or an AEM style disc if they are available for the CA18.
  9. 1 point
    You will need to change the disc to one that has a single window for the "cam sync". Although you are correct in that the stock disc coupled with a separate crank trigger would give enough information needed for sequential triggering, it would need a custom trigger decoder written just for you which is unlikely to happen.
  10. 1 point
    Adamw

    Very lean idle, stalling and more

    I’m not sure I understand what you wrote, but the “AEMNet -“ wire from the wideband needs to be connected to CAN L at the ECU and the AEMNet+ needs to be connected to ecu CAN H.
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link fury wideband issue

    Can you attach a log.
  12. 1 point
    Peter Andersson

    Import G4+ map to X series

    Will this ever be possible? I think its an important thing
  13. 1 point
    TechDave

    Import G4+ map to X series

    Use the table import/export functions, this brings axis settings over too. Works on almost all tables but not AFR/Lambda target
  14. 1 point
    Adamw

    GM IAT Sensor Calibration on V44

    The GM sensor uses the same calibration as the link sensor so you dont need to change anything. If you are still getting a t2 @ 5V error that means the ecu is not seeing any sensor connected (open circuit). It could be a bad connection or dead sensor. You can confirm the sensor is good with a multimeter, it should measure around 3000-3500ohms at typical room temperature.
  15. 1 point
    Adamw

    PCLink Duplicate view

    This video will help: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs Also, not shown in this video, but recently there is a new function added "surface locked to focused table", you will find this by right clicking on a surface view. This allows you to have one surface view that switches to match whatever different text view table you are using - for instance if you use the F/I short cuts to switch between fuel and ignition map.
  16. 1 point
    This suggests you have a "backfeed". Usually this is caused by something that is wired to an aux output that is connected to a power supply that is live all the time. Anything that is connected to an aux output must be powered from an ignition switched source. I would first check anything which may have been added to the wiring such as a boost solenoid.
  17. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link Extreme on a Barra swap

    Inlet cam sensor connected to trig 2. It should have a 3+1 type pattern.
  18. 1 point
    the Plex uSDM 102pro hooked up to the Link G4+ plugin (but currently shown just reading from the built-in thermocouple amp); Receiving the top three rows from the ECU over CAN, the bottom from the gauge's built-in TC amp; Nice and responsive to skin temperature! (sadly not so much when embedded into an EGT or Water temp sensor!.. not the fault of gauges however, just a question of thermal mass!); Also managed to get the CAN set up so that the data from the inputs on the dash are transmitted back to the ECU. The fact PCLink uses the CAN id in Decimal and the Plex software uses Hex caught me out at first ( noob oversight !) I had set them both to '1001' - instead of '1001' on PCLink & the '3e9' on the Plex software!: For me this is pretty handy as it means I've got an extra 4 analog/digital inputs and integrated 2-channel EGT amp. Particularly useful on the Series 6 (originally 8-bit) RX-7 Plug-in. I also had a little play with the Alarm function on the dash (set at 30degC). The LED flashes red and the screen inverts yellow and black... should be pretty hard to miss when on track!: So next I need to figure out; ..How to configure 'Soft buttons'.. and generally how they work ..How to go about creating new parameters (or editing the names of existing ones) to suit the new sensors/switches I'm bringing over CAN to PCLink ..The best way of building/controlling 2 modes for the car: 'street' @ 16psi and 'fast/track' @ 22psi w/Water Injection (only have access to 97-99RON UK fuel sadly). I started building a system using a micro to go alongside the (admittedly old school!) Power FC; it used a pre-existing dashboard switch with in-build LED to turn the high boost/WI system on and then blink slowly to show it's been selected, a solid LED-on when the WI pump was active/flowing and a crazy fast blink (and mode returned back to 'street' boost) when a warning signal was received from the WI pressure or tank level switch. I imagine there's a whole bunch of ways I could integrate something similar between the Link and the Plex dash, just got the figure out the most I/O friendly way! Anyway I've just started working my way through the HPAcademy Link G4+ tutorials so hopefully they will shed some light on the best way to approach these.
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    Rx7 FD - Link G4+ Extr speedo output

    Yes, if it was connected to a reluctor sensor originally it will be expecting a sine wave that crosses zero volts. You can try the de-coupling circuit below, no guarantees for you but it will generate a simulated AC signal that crosses zero. It has worked for a nissan skyline speedo which is uses a reluctor sensor.
  20. 1 point
    Simon

    aem ethanol sensor setup

    So that is just the status. There is a dedicate Ethanol % runtime value and also Temp.
  21. 1 point
    Simon

    aem ethanol sensor setup

    Only check there is that there is a lock out for a little bit after start up. So would only expect it to read after a bit of running. Set up really is just turn on the Di to Ethanol Sensor and pullup on. And you have this done. Then it is just down to wiring and sensor.
  22. 1 point
    Simon

    Latest Update

    6.16.26 PC link and 6.16.15 FW are now available http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 13032020.pdf
  23. 1 point
    Davidv

    Log analysis improvement

    You can already do that too. You just open the log file manager tab on the side, and then click in the box for the one you'd like to overlay. Then it shows two lots of graph times down the bottom, you can move one back and forth if you want to try make them line up.
  24. 1 point
    Adamw

    Knock strategy with sequential gearbox

    You can set up a timer and virtual aux to be triggered by gear shift status and use that timer/aux to increase the knock target to say 1000 for a short time during/after a gear shift. I will give you an example later.
  25. 1 point
    TechDave

    Link Monsoon G4x VVTI

    As per my email to you: It's super easy. Select the Toyota 1JZ cam control mode, then under "cam angle test", select calibrate. Go to Inlet Bank 1, select a cam sensor input (trig 2) and a PWM output. Make sure the engine is above the ect lock out, run the engine up to 4000ish rpm All of the offsets, teeth etc are filled in automatically for you, you only need to set up your target table.
  26. 1 point
    You will need a free Aux output that can then be set as engine fan. This will then provide a ground to turn on a relay that controls the fans. Pin 9 might be a good option if you are not running AC.
  27. 1 point
    Adamw

    Headphones with Link G4+ Knockblock

    You need to use head phones that have a 3 pole 3.5mm jack, often referred to as stereo. Most smartphone earbuds have a 4 pole plug as they also have a microphone, these won’t work.
  28. 1 point
    If you want to use existing wiring for the IAT then probably the easiest option is at the ecu connector pull the AFM signal wire out of pin 27 and move it to pin 36. Pin 36 is AN Temp 2. Then in the engine bay connect your temp sensor to the AFM signal and AFM ground wires.
  29. 1 point
    So is this a GTS/GTR ecu or the R34 GTT ecu? For the boost solenoid they are not polarity sensitive so it doesnt matter which wire gets connected to the ECU, the second wire needs to be connected to a +12V source that is only live when the ign switch is on.
  30. 1 point
    barge

    Electro hydraulic power steer pump control.

    What pump are you looking to use? I'm using a Volvo pump which does have a CAN connection but it runs in a default mode without CAN with just an on signal which on the stock vehicle is an alternator output. I'm using an output that's engine RPM over 500 to trigger the pump on.
  31. 1 point
    Matt Dunn

    Variable Traction Control

    I my car I run an 11 position rotary switch to adjust traction control, I prefer the switch rather than just a potentiometer as I can see and feel the adjustments on the go. I run the output to a AN Volt INPUT and run a 3d allocation table. I did this as I had no idea what slip % to start with and could try a wider range of settings on the go. After playing I now have it setup at 9% slip in mid position and a difference of 1% per click. I find it works quite well.
  32. 1 point
    amvegeta

    Dual maps on G4 subaru v5

    Two maps for high/low octane fuel. Regards.
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