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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/16/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    Thunder lambda wiring - 12v

    Here are some measurements from a single 4.9 Lambda sensor running on a Thunder on the bench. The maximum the sensor drew was 1.43A at the end of the heating phase
  2. 1 point

    WRC Launch control

    Do you have a DI engine like all those cars? They dont do anything too special, although their launch control strategy will include significant DBW throttle control as well as the normal ign & fuel cuts but mostly they are not popping and banging like a port injected engine because with DI you can use much more fuel cut without the normal wall wetting delays.
  3. 1 point

    Subaru WRX 2004 with link ecu 44s

    The 44S ecu is a G1 based ECU so I have moved your post to the G1 section. You will find the manual for the PossumLink 44S in the section at the top labelled "G1 Manuals". You will need to use PC Link V2.5 for this ECU. Im pretty sure the G3 drivers should work ok with the Comlink so check in device manager that the comlink shows up under Ports - COM & LPT. Note from memory the Comlink must be assigned to comport COM1-9. If it is not looking happy in device manager then post back and I will find a driver that should work.
  4. 1 point

    Nissan 350z Link G4+ ABS problems

    Sera, this sounds like a problem we have seen before. It seems there are some specific 350Z's where the ABS ecu throws a wobbly if it doesnot get an acknowledge from the engine ecu within a few mS of power up. It is thought the Link ECU takes slightly longer than the factory ECU to send out CAN messages after boot up. It seems rare but I remember seeing 2 or 3 cases in the few years I worked for Link. The fix is to wire a relay in to the ABS ecu power supply wiring, so during cranking the ABS ecu power is cut - it then reboots, gets its acknowledge from the engine ecu straight away and is all happy. I will PM you a document describing what needs to be done.
  5. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Simon, seriously mate, take the Horsepower Acadamy courses. You already seem to have a fair idea what you are looking at. HPA will simplify the whole process for you, break it down into a couple of main areas and give you the skills and confidence to slowly sort out this nightmare properly yourself. Not only will you gain a fuller understanding of fuel and ignition requirements, all your trims and enrichments, boost set up etc, they also do full video demonstrations on all aspects of tuning on many different platforms and those videos are available to watch over and over.
  6. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hi Simon, I didnt see your pclr file when I posted that info. After having a second look with the pclr loaded as well I can see what you mean about the fuel pressure. The pressure itself isnt technically a problem as 3.5bar is a pretty normal pressure level, however the flow rate, deadtimes and short pulse width tables are taken from the 3bar table in the ID1700 data instead of 3.5bar. The fuel flow number is probably the only one having a real impact here. Unfortunately you cant really change either these parameters or the fuel pressure without re-checking the entire fuel tune. Changing the fuel pressure down at the regulator is more likely to be acceptable given you have everything FP sensor controlled, but its still something you want to be careful with as you could cause it to go leaner under load. I can also now see what you mean about the -12% ish CL correction to your idle fuelling. you could try dropping the fuel table values for both table 1 & table 2 at these cells & smoothing it into the cells near it. Better yet would be to disable CLL for a while. Go drive around smoothly for a bit (so there is constant load in each cell for a few seconds) then at the end of the run use the mixture map feature to adjust mostly table 2 (current E85 mixture means you are interpolating 90 odd % out of fuel table 2 so its really the only 1 that matters. Turn CLL back on after you've done this. CLL isnt active at cruise because the RPM high limit is set to 1500rpm. That being said, it still looks to me like at cruise RPM & TPS your lambda values are pretty close to target - between 0.94 & 1.0 which seems ok. If the CLL high rpm threshold was bumped up to around 3k or 3.5k this would probably correct itself. You would probably want to drop the TPS high threshold down to 50 or 70% so you dont run CLL under full throttle. It seems your fuelling is reasonable at full throttle, although there isnt much time spent at WOT in the log to be sure. For the cold start issues, you can try just upping the max idle valve % up to say 70 and see if this improves things. Your idle is a little below target at this point too so this might fix that. regarding the feeling of it still having power when off throttle, this wont be lambda related. Only things that cause this (apart from air leaks) are faulty/too small recirc valves, idle screw set too far open, idle valve numbers too high, or ignition advance too high. Easiest one to change is dropping the values in ign1 & 2 table for the row that represents your off-throttle MAP value. The lower you drop this the less power will be generated by the engine to "keep pushing the car". How long does this effect last for? your fuel cut is set to kick in after 0.2seconds which should cut power a lot. Your cruise log @ 26:54 shows fuel pressure dropping off a fair bit. You'd need to hold it at that level for a few seconds to see if it stablised or kept dropping off. Maybe the lines are too small? maybe low amperage at the pumps if its factory wiring?
  7. 1 point

    AVCS cams playing up Subaru STI

    VVT mode is set to Evo 9. I should be set to "Subaru AVCS EJ20".
  8. 1 point

    RPM 65535

    No, the dwell scatter is a symptom of a trigger error. It means the ECU isnt receiving the regular tooth pattern that it expects from the trigger. As I said earlier, the quickest way to find your problem is to get an oscilloscope capture of the triggers - preferably when it is playing up. The Oscilloscope will show us what is wrong with the waveform and this will usually give you some strong clues what is causing it. Do not waste time changing random parts - there could be many hundreds of different scenarios. Your logs show the ECU is not happy with the trigger so you need to start by diagnosing what it is about the trigger signal that the ECU it is not happy about.
  9. 1 point

    Extreme g4+ red can bus 2

    The Red cased Xtremes did not have CAN 2 they only have CAN 1
  10. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Thunder lambda wiring - 12v

    I have monitored the current draw of CAN lambdas during heat up phase several times from ambient, using low voltage (10 Volts and nominal Voltage 13.8) Basically on the edge of failure mode, The maximum current they draw is 1.5 Amps (worst case at low voltage) . reducing down to about 1 Amp when up to temperature. I will post the Thunder current draw tomorrow when I can dig the values out.
  11. 1 point

    Engine fans don't turn on mr2link tst185

    Which model car is this in? The sw20's factory wiring has the radiator fans controlled independently from the ecu - non AC models its just a temp switch in the radiator, AC models its a temp sensor that feeds back to the AC module and this controls the rad fans.
  12. 1 point

    help to start

    You have both AN Volt 1 and AN Volt 5 set to MAP sensor. For Storm blue if you are using the internal MAP sensor it should be AN Volt 5, you need to turn AN Volt 1 off. Because MAP is reading wrong (220Kpa with engine off), the ECU is applying MAP limit ignition cut (boost cut). After turning off AN Volt 1 please confirm MAP reads same as BAP with engine not running.
  13. 1 point

    Link G4+ Fury E-throttle delay

    Your high idle is caused by 2x things The first 4-5 seconds is because for the first 4.5 seconds after initial startup, the ecu adds the "startup step table" value to the TPS target. So instead of 7% TPS you run ~10% for 4.5 seconds then it goes back to normal ethrottle target at about 1400rpm. You probably want a bit of this behaviour but can tweak it down a little bit so its only adding 0.5 or 1% maybe. Fix this second once you have the base idle values correct. The second problem is that your base idle table is quite high, so in open loop idle you would be running 7-8% TPS which is why you get 1400-1500 rpm idle for the first 30 seconds or so. After that, closed loop idle control pulls enough% out of the target to lower your RPM to ~1200. At this point you are more in the 4.5-5% TPS range. Remember TPS target is ethrottle table value + base idle value + any other values. "3% base idle step" does not mean 3% of your target number (ie 3% of 5%), it means 3+5 = 8%. To fix this, i would take 2% off either all cells in your base idle table, or 2% off all values in the 0 row of your ethrottle target table. Either change will means your open loop idle is ~5% where it needs to be, and so closed loop will have very little to modify. This will also mean your inital startup TPS% is 2% lower, which may be enough to fix that issue as well, hence why you fix this first.
  14. 1 point

    R35 gtr coil conversion r32 rb26

    R32 GTR uses direct spark settings with a Link ECU from the factory. This will not change when you run the new R35 coils. Once you are plugged in with the new coils, I would go to ignition test and ping each of the coils to check that they are assigned/wired correctly. Once happy they are assigned correctly, you will need to enter in the dwell settings for those coils. I don't know the data for this off the top of my head, but maybe it was supplied with your conversion kit. If not I'm sure the data is out there on the interwebs somewhere. Finally I would get the timing light out, go to calibrate and re-adjust your ignition delay as I would hope you would need less delay now with more modern/simple ignition components.
  15. 1 point

    Subaru STI engine problem with advance

    Have you verified base timing?
  16. 1 point

    PC Link closes Tune file when connecting

    I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).
  17. 1 point

    S15 plug in

    AN Volt 4 is fine to use for a temp sensor on the S15 plug-in, there is a jumper on the bottom board to enable a pull-up on that input. So have you definitely got the J8 jumper fitted shorting the two pins together? Make sure it is a tight fit on the pins and pushed all the way on as I have seen a lose jumper before. Another test you can do to confirm is unplug the temp sensor and measure voltage across the pink/blue wires - you should see 5V if the jumper is fitted. If you attach your tune file someone will check it is set up right.
  18. 1 point
    If you have a scope, you should be able to do a running compression test quite easily. I've done it before using a cheap 300psi absolute pressure sensor off ebay. At higher rpm's there is a little lag with the sensor, but for the purposes of this test it is viable. I just bought a cheap compression tester and adapted the sensor to the hose so it can be used as normal. A little awkward in a Subaru maybe, but still very doable. So this new engine itself....has never actually ran correctly ? What does a 4 gas analyser tell you ? Is there evidence of misfires ?
  19. 1 point
    Since it is an adjacent pair of cylinders there are many possibilities. I have seen all sorts of fails over the years, so you cant assume anything, you need to eliminate the most obvious/logical possibilities as completely as you can first then move on to the next. Just some random examples of what I come across before that could potentially affect compression on 1 bank; Cyl head bolts/studs bottomed out on the threads before the head clamps tight. Head gaskets on upside down or back to front. Small fire ring gasket on oversize bore causing leak between cylinders. Valve lash too tight or lifters not bled. Cam timing. I have even come across things like rags left inside the ports/manifold...
  20. 1 point
    Since there is some evidence of a compression issue based on your starter current, the first thing I would do is buy a cheap compression gauge and do a basic warm WOT compression test. Get that possibility eliminated first.
  21. 1 point

    Can Lampda problem

    The 5 wire cable is the problem, this means the serial pins are connected, it should only have 2 pins (CAN H/CAN L) connected. The easiest fix would be to either cut the grey and yellow wires near the ecu or pull the terminals out of the plug.
  22. 1 point

    Can Lampda problem

    As per the instructions, yes.
  23. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Can lambda set up issue

    You mentioned can hi and lo as green and white, just in case you have them that way round, can hi is white and can lo is green. Also have a lookcat the can tab in the runtime values to seeing there are any errors. HTH, Richard.
  24. 1 point

    Rb25det sensors

    The easiest option for the IAT sensor is an exp loom. Otherwise you can run your own two wires back to the ecu and connect it to pin 36 (AN Temp 2) and Pin 50 (sensor gnd). For a MAP, that ECU has one onboard so that is probably the easiest. If you really want to you can connect an external one to the MAF input but there is no 5V power supply at the MAF connector so you would have to get that from the TPS or ECU connector.
  25. 1 point

    Crank enrichment extrapolate

    Nah there isnt. It's a bit of trial and error. I've spent a lot of time on cold start stuff, because I want my car to be as economical as possible - and cold engine really punishes you if youre just hoofing fuel in. The biggest difference I've found for cold start is advancing the injector timing to around about 220deg BTDC when its cold. When the motor is hot, and you have around 400deg BTDC its great because you're spraying fuel droplets onto the hot port and valves which makes it evaporate. When you have a cold engine though, it just condenses on the walls. So advancing the timing closer to TDC means you're spraying when the engine is actually sucking air in, so more ends up in the cylinder. So you can reduce your enrichments by a whole heap and it runs just as nice.
  26. 1 point

    Yaris coil dwell time

  27. 1 point
    Would be nice to be able to see at a glance if edits were additions or subtractions since last marker reset. Say on fuel table you add to a cell than the cell turns blue and if you subtracted the cell turns red.
  28. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  29. 1 point

    Base Map - 4AGE Blacktop with COP's

    I will attach one that I have. Note 3 wire push/pull type idle valves need to be connected to aux 1&2 so you will need to shuffle a couple of your pins around (they can be popped out of the connector easy). Close signal is Aux 1 and Open signal is Aux 2. G4+ Atom 4AGE 20V Stock NA startup.pclr
  30. 1 point

    3uz throttle map

    look up the wikipedia article for PID tuning. There is a gif on the page about half way down that changes to show the effect of increasing P, I and D values. Very roughly, P is how quickly it reacts (how quickly it applies motor current), I is the aggressiveness (how much current it applies), and D is like a smoothing filter. None of these descriptions is technically correct but it can be a lot easier to understand to this way than fully understanding the maths behind it. I had noticed that your TPS response was a bit slow in general compared to your AP - about 200-250ms, which has got to be noticeable when driving. Here's the process i've used to tweak ethrottle PID's in the past (in case the 1uz settings dont give you the feel you want, or you just want to understand "why" a bit better): without the engine running, set "run mode when stalled" to "run throttle" set your ethrottle target table so AP0% = TPS20%, then interpolate up to AP100% = TPS80%. ie your TPS will only span between 20% and 80% open with full accel pedal travel. probably store the ECU config at this point. It gives you a safe point to return to if you have to cut power a abort testing later on. go to the logging window in pclink, start a log, and make APS main and TPS main the only 2 parameters visible (or at least the only 2 in one of the groups) press the accel pedal slowly a few times then quickly a few times, then quickly but only to 1/2 or 1/4 pedal travel and notice how much delay you see between the AP line and the TP line. now go to the ethrottle PID numbers and bump up P by 1 and repeat the tests. What you are looking for is minimal delay between the AP line moving and the TP line starting to follow it. At this stage dont worry about overshoot too much, just bump it up towards 8 or 9 until you stop seeing much improvement. dont go past 9 though. Make some notes as you go about what numbers you are testing. If you get the throttle to the point its just oscillating and wont stop after a second or 2, turn the ignition off, start again at slightly less aggressive numbers. Now you basically play D off against I. D you increase or decrease by 1 or 2 points at a time. I by 0.02 or so. If the TP response looks "lazy" - ie its heading towards the AP line but starts to taper off before catching up to it (so TP gets to within 1-2% of AP and the takes a second to get the last bit), lower D until that tapering off point is really close to the AP line. If you see the TP line overshoot the AP line and oscilate a few times before settling down or if it doesnt stop oscillating at all, increase D until you only have no overshoot or maybe a single small overshoot then it stablises at the AP line. To evaluate I, looks at whether the angle of the TP line matches that of the AP line when you press the pedal. If TP isnt a sharp enough angle, ie its heading in the right direction but not steeply enough, increase I (by a tiny bit). If TP likes to overshoot the target/AP by more than a couple percentage points, then lower I a bit. Note: this is why you tweaked the throttle target table to between 20 and 80 - you cant normally see overshoot below 0 or above 100. You'll likely see overshoot worst when making large quick changes, and you'll see lazy response worse when making small slow changes. When you have numbers you are happy with, put the throttle target table back to its normal values and save everything. Regarding the APS and TPS calibration failures, you can do this manually by hooking up all 4x sensors but leaving your existing voltage values in place, setting ethtrottle to "quiet mode" mode, and pull off your intake pipe so you can manually move the throttle blade. start a log, then press the pedal all the way down, hold it for a couple seconds, then release for a couple seconds. repeat 2 or 3 times. Now push the throttl blade all the way open and hold it, then all the way shut (you need to press it shut, they like to sit at 3-4% when left alone), repeat a couple times. Now add parameters to your log view for AN 1, 5, 6, 7 - these are the raw voltages from the APS and TPS sensors. have a look at the min and max values for each sensor and enter these manually into the APS and TPS calibration screens. Also note if either of the SUB sensors doesnt have a full range of travel (ie it flatlines above 70% or something), you need to enter the main% value when the sub% stops increasing if this happens too. You should now be able to switch to "run when stalled" throttle mode and run another log, but this time look at APS main, sub, TPS main, sub, and you should see all 4 tracking between 0 and 100% together (subject to a littel bit of latency in the TP numbers depending on how well your PID's are tuned).
  31. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Flames on decel.

    latency will not do what you are after
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