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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  2. 3 points
    Adamw

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  3. 3 points
    Hyperblade

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  4. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  5. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  6. 2 points
    Adamw

    Engine protection question

    Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.
  7. 2 points
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  8. 2 points
    MarcD

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  9. 2 points
    I always tune RB26's with TPS as the main fuel load table. I even use it as the main load on the ignition table with a 4d map for boost correction. I find it makes them much snappier. You are getting fairly low in the injector pulsewidth at idle. It is possible that the dynamics of your particular injectors are not consistent enough at that low of a pulsewidth. You could try to change the 1000 rpm cell at 5.8 psi in your Target AF table to 13.8 or so. If its a low pulsewidth issue this may stabilize it a bit. It seems to be maintaining idle fairly well in the log. Blaine Carmena Carmena Performance
  10. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Hi All, I have my car back at home now, out of storage so I'll try and finish this project and document the whole build
  11. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Haven't forgotten about this, car still in storage for about another month
  12. 2 points
    mapper

    G4+ subaru wrx V7-10 plugin is a dud

    Wildwestaussi1 think best is if you just leave this forum. A forum is there to help out each other. Only thing you are doing is blaming products and other tuners. If you are incompetend to install and setup such a highend ECU, just don't touch anything and take the car to one of the LINK ECU Tuners you can find on the website. And before you are calling everyone an idiot; I'm a professional Tuner and worked with LINK ECU's on Subaru's for several years. I came never across such a problem you descripted. As you statet, there was alot going on with this engine/car before you have got your hands on. So go and search there for a fault, but don't blame a great ECU manufacturer!
  13. 2 points
    JMP

    Toyota 1zz-fe base map

    The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept. The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug. PCB pin THWO. You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch
  14. 2 points
    Scott

    Honda K20A base map

    Hi Niv, I don't have a base-map. The PCLink help file contains some info for this engine, have a look at: PCLink Help > Engine Specific Information > Honda > Honda K20PCLink Help > Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Honda K20 - 60mm.Scott
  15. 2 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    AEM MAP and IAT Sensor

    Hi, I haven't forgot about this project. I have been very unwell with extreme pain for the last couple of weeks. I am on large doses of very powerful pain medication, so my brain doesn't work correctly while under the influence and it makes me sleep a lot. I have just come back from the doctors again for different medication again, tonight. I have been working on the PCL file for this along with a few other jobs. I needed to know how much boost he wants to run for many reasons, boost cuts, boost control target tables etc, working out what his final fuel pressure will be with static pressure plus full boost pressure etc. Spanning the Y axis on Fuel and Ignition tables and any other tables that will be MAP,MGP etc based AXIS. The more information I can gather the easier it is to set things up. Setting up PCL files for cars that aren't in front of you is quite difficult hence for the many questions. Yes , you are all correct, I DO NOT WORK FOR ViPEC. I enjoy helping others where possible. When I first started I could only ask a random question here or there, I didn't have the luxury of FORUMS or the Internet for help. 99% of what I know I have taught myself through testing , reading and studying etc. It is something you never stop learning. I have been doing this stuff for close to 20 years and there is still so much more to learn, I had many frustrating times trying to sort out issues etc. This is why I try to HELP where possible. I also strongly believe in the product and love it's capabilities. Sure there maybe some things people wish for that aren't possible in earlier versions etc. But for a very fairly priced ECU it sure is loaded with some very impressive features. There are also many ways to control devices under certain operating conditions etc. So by getting involved and helping those out seeking help, I in return learn as well. No one has ever done everything. So having a go at everything that crosses your path will expand your knowledge base 10 fold. So in the process of helping you, at times I am learning also. That is what this FORUM is about, NO BULL$%@T, just cold hard facts and many suggestions to help you all in the long run. Regards Dave.
  16. 1 point
    cj.surr

    Bluetooth Adapter for Dash - Success

    I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging) This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports. The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive. The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model: I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec. In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect. If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter. Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all. This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. Blue = 5v Orange = GND Grey = RX Yellow = TX
  17. 1 point
    Adamw

    AVCS cams playing up Subaru STI

    VVT mode is set to Evo 9. I should be set to "Subaru AVCS EJ20".
  18. 1 point
    You don’t need to change anything, the factory sensor works fine. If you do want to change to a sensor with isolated ground (2 wire) then the easiest option is to connect the 2nd pin to the shield and use that as it’s ground. For the boost solenoid, connect to factory wires.
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    Possible bug in Thermistor Calc?

    The problem is the ecu uses linear interpolation between the cells in any table, yet a thermistor is highly non linear. Since you have such a big gap between the 24°C and 94°C cal points it will be very noticeable. The reason you see difference between voltage Vs ohms cal is because the voltage divider calculation will inverse the non-linearity affect (I suspect the voltage cal will be closer to reality than the ohms in this case). You typically want no more than 10°C break points for a thermistor cal. Pic at the bottom to show the effect, straight lines are your cal, pink line is more like how the sensor would behave. I would suggest you try the pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration as that looks like it matches your sensor reasonably well.
  20. 1 point
    Simon

    Sorry to ask. What software?

    Its a G4+ so you will ned the latest PC link which is currently 5.6.6 http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.6.3601 Setup.exe
  21. 1 point
    dynoiasi

    Boost Control

    Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software. Best regards, Florin
  22. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  23. 1 point
    Adamw

    Idle Speed control motors - How to

    No, I dont see any way you will be able to get a DC servo motor to control idle air with our ECU. Most engines I do are ITB and I dont bother with any idle valve. Typically you can get pretty decent idle control just using ignition only. Set it up so normal warm idle uses quite retarded ignition (say about 0), that means the throttle blade needs to be set open quite a way to achieve a normal idle speed. Set up the idle ignition table with ECT on one axis so that when its cold it runs about 20deg more timing than when hot. Thats usually enough to get it to cold idle own its own with no driver input.
  24. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    ID1000's I'm confused

    ID has several data sets for the 1000cc units. Use the values for either efi live or hp tuners. The link ecu uses the same axis break points as a GM ecu.
  25. 1 point
    from my experience with the quad cam avcs, full throttle pull, exhaust cam will sit around 25-30deg. when adam says the thing is rich, .65 is way to rich and I bet is causing misfire. These engines work better around .78-.8 lambda.
  26. 1 point
    The Lambda trace actually isn't in the correct position as the reading lags so I would say its going lean on a throttle blip, best way to see by how much the Lambda is lagging is to set a switch on a DI and when selected add 10% to the fuel map, hold it at 4k rpm and switch the DI on, by logging the DI and the Lambda you will see how long the lag is, you can then read the log better. I would say if the fuel table is correct then you need to adjust the accell Enrichment. Logging TPS delta along with the TPS trace will help you work out whats going on. Hope this helps.
  27. 1 point
    Adamw

    4g63 boost control.

    Correct, it should have a stock solenoid in that car, usually you would just connect the new solenoid to the wires for the original valve. Wrong. One side goes to a switched +12V source. The other goes to an aux output. There are no aux outputs available on the expansion connector on that ECU, so you should connect it to aux 1/Pin 105.
  28. 1 point
    Yes, I highly suggest you use the Link for this test as I suspect our injector driver circuits are probably different than a MS2 and this can have quite an effect on dead times. See this post here for a bit of an idea how another user tested deadtime and short pulse width adder (Roman is user @Davidv on the Link forum): https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21624-romans-beams-3sge-toyota-carina/&do=findComment&comment=1688039 Im sure he had a similar post on this forum but I cant find it.
  29. 1 point
    Adamw

    Wiring Earths on MX5 PNP

    The sensors and shield can all be grounded to one sensor ground on the expansion harness. The coils will need a high current power ground so they should be grounded direct to the cylinder head or block. For the trigger you would be better to buy proper shielded wire - I wouldnt trust just sleeving or foil over two/three regular wires. It shouldnt be difficult to find.
  30. 1 point
    cj

    R35 MAF

    Have a read of this post. Seems like it works but probably not preferred
  31. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    CLL fuel correction %

    G4+ has a very similar function called quick tune that is with key F10
  32. 1 point
    A couple of extra tips for the MTX-L... Connect the innovate yellow wire to any spare Link analog input. The MTX doesnt have a dedicated analog ground so this will often cause a large and variable ground offset if grounded to the wrong location. The Innovate manual suggests grounding to the negative battery post but I would suggest the engine block instead. The "innovate LC1" calibration in the PCLink software is the correct one to choose (MTX is the same).
  33. 1 point
    As you self answered 3 & 4 : 1 - Set your engine protection rpm limit to Ignition Cut. 2 - Have you checked the CAN configuration - ECU Controls - CAN Config
  34. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    Overrun Fuel Cut Activation

    Not seen one, just need to do it the hard way with 2 timers and 2 virtuals and dual tables. Would be a nice addition though, I do actually get asked this a lot from the cruise and show guys and gals who want flames and pops at the weekend.
  35. 1 point
    muzzytt

    Delay on flex fuel sensor

    I think the settings in pre crank prime would be the main focus here?
  36. 1 point
    dmacnz

    Trigger errors on startup normal??

    I wired the cam sensor backwards! The give away was that it went negative first!
  37. 1 point
    gojira

    Engine fan control before start

    i use 1 fan PWM controlled and 1 fan by relay ON/OFF I made a 3D table for the PWM fan RPMS vs ECT But on 0rpm and 500rpm i set 0%, that AUX is set as GP OUTPUT PWM, if i set a % value on the coloms 0Rpm and 500Rpm, then the fan is running while engine is not started. Like Adamw says : when selected Engine fan on a AUX, that fan will only be running when engine is started.
  38. 1 point
    Hi Mapper, i have done a lot of race boats etc with MoTeC sports dashes using ViPEC ECU'S when you purchase the dash the 2 options for the GPS are a 10 and a 15 Hz and believe me we get mega data with them and no time issues. But point taken. Regards Dave.
  39. 1 point
    TechDave

    G4 Info Display

    When PCLink first starts up, before you change the connection option, in the top right hand corner, does PCLink display an orange box with "Searching"? If it does not: Go to Options > ConnectionSet "Connection Mode" to "Auto"Press OkGo to File > ExitOpen PCLink manuallyYou should be able to cycle the power to the PC and PCLink will auto connect. Post back here with your result.
  40. 1 point
    Scott

    MY05 Subaru Forester XT - G4+ Thunder

    I think if you keep things how Adam suggested but add a 3rd condition to Aux 8 then the scavenge pump will not start running when you turn the key on and rpm is zero. Something like this: Scott
  41. 1 point
    Simon

    Deadtimes and a fuel map vs VE question

    Yep the Xtreme will go up to 10 peak and 3 hold. Anything under that is mint.
  42. 1 point
    Adturb

    Plex uSDM interface

    Last edit- changed the ID from '1792' (which is specified for the 300 and 500 series) to '1000' and it's working! Only thing not displaying correctly is the Lambda, I suspect it's a math problem as the value is changing- but I'm sure my car isn't running 6-7AFR
  43. 1 point
    JMP

    ECU tuning via windows10 Mobile smartphone

    current binaries wont work on windows 10 mobile. pclink would need to be developed as a Universal Windows Platform app. The x3 looks to be a very nice unit and is just the start of the new generation of continuum enabled devices
  44. 1 point
    Ducie54

    Fuel system type Map to FP sensor

    Thanks Scott, saves me any more headaches working that out. Found out today the dead time data supplied by Motec is battery voltage and fuel pressure. I had it setup as differential fuel pressure. Minimum effective pulse width is also too low causing high valves in the fuel table.
  45. 1 point
    JMP

    EVO 8 V44 plugin - no knock or speed input?

    to test if the idle ignition is having an impact, I'd turn off ignition idle control. If it still plays up, I'd then set it to open-loop idle and tune the base position table. Once the base position table is right I'd then enable closed loop, make any fine adjustments as required, then enable ignition idle control for that last level of refinement.
  46. 1 point
    Scott

    Boost Guage

    Hi Rob, are you talking about setting up a boost gauge in PCLink, or physically connecting a boost gauge to run from the ECU? If you are talking about in POLink then here ia quick little video: https://vdoubleyou-scott.tinytake.com/sf/NjQ3MDQzXzMxNDEwMjA Right click in an empty space to place the gauge. You can adjust the range and orange and red sections if you want. Press the 'u' key to swap between kPa and PSI.
  47. 1 point
    Simon

    A few more cruise control options

    Hi David #2 is in there already. But have to admit its not covered in the help. The Set and Resume inputs perform this function. If Cruise is operating and you hit the Set input it will increase the speed. And the resume will decrease the speed. #3 is a current work in progress and should be coming soon.
  48. 1 point
    Hi Davidv, I am just suggesting what I do in alot of my applications, solid lifters, forged pistons etc. You can go to 8000 rpm if you wish, however I would much prefer to use audible det gear and trust the human ear via electronics and then setup the ignition timing from there. Regards Dave.
  49. 1 point
    Scott

    afr changing after tune/drive

    Hi, I've had a look at your log file. I can see how the lambda reading is leaner as the log goes on. When I check the Fuel Table 1 reading at the same points it is even. To me this indicates that either the ECU is applying a trim of some sort (which I do not see in the log file), or something like temperature is effecting the tune. We do highly recommend running an IAT sensor. Can you also please supply your base-map? Scott
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    1JZ VVT-I Map

    Hi, Variable valve timing really needs to be tuned on the dyno, it is the only way to truly know if you are going forwards or back wards. When making changes to the target tables go in steps of 5 degrees at a time, once you see your torque drop off you, then decrease the value by 1 degree at a time until you hit the sweet spot. You must make sure that your engine is also a free running motor, meaning that if you advance the cam timing too much that you have no piston / valve contact. Regards Dave.
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