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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Yep sounds like you got it. Here's a quick demo: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPqylX67m5Oo57-JVv?e=t3SK3f
  2. 2 points
    Ok, all the CAN is done, I havent added any of the new channels to displays or whatever but they should now be available. I have kept all the channel names pretty much as per the BPM datasheet. The only one that is a bit ambiguous is Fuel level. He has used 2 bytes like it is expected to cover a large range of numbers but then says the range is only 0-53L. Just one byte can do up to 255 and 2 Bytes is capable of 65000. So I suspect he might be sending it as "0.1L" rather than whole Litres but that is not clear. If your fuel level says "500 Litres" when you have it all working then set the scalar to 0.1. Marvin-LinkG4UpdatedV2Port2CAN Adam.aemcd7
  3. 1 point

    Seadoo Rxp 2018 and Rxt 2018

    This is basically just updated 4tec motor. The throttle is analog. I had it running for a while but then out of the blue I started having trigger issue and it was very hard to start. Basically because of the 3-cylinder configuration on these motors the trigger signal is messy, it speeds up and slows down during cranking. I submitted a ticket for a pre-defined trigger option but my hopes are very low that it will ever get looked at, just not enough interest. BTW Vipec = Link ECU so you could grab vipec and have plug&play setup, keep stock dash with iBR functionality. Removing iBR means you lose trim control, not ideal for racing.
  4. 1 point
    I can help you with the CAN set up if you first confirm what device you have. The document you attached is for a device from a company called BPM auto electronics. It is not a Motec device.
  5. 1 point

    help for porsche 986 2.5

    So basic engine/idle theory... **assuming your trigger1 offset is correct** engine power output is from compressing & igniting fuel + air. The more fuel + air you have in the cylinder, the more potential power. The ignition angle (ie "when" you ignite the mixture in the 360* cycle) determines how much of that potential power is actually created. In 95%+ of petrol/ethanol engines, you "control" the air intake, and the computer/carb adds an appropriate amount of fuel to match. To have a stable idle, the engine output power (torque) must equal the amount required to keep the engine turning over. Any less & it stalls, any more and the revs increase. So the 2 levers you have to pull to get a stable idle (at any rpm) are 1) how much air you let in 2) what ignition angle you fire the spark plugs at You are only changing #2 here, but it sounds like you have #1 a bit off vs the factory specs. 25* ignition at idle is quite high, so I suggest you need to increase the air flow at idle - either idle stop screw on the throttle, or increase the idle control settings in the ECU to allow more air. You will then see your idle jump up to higher rpm, and when you reduce the ignition table values it should come back down. I cant give you exact values, but typical factory ignition idle angles are usually in the 10-20* range, and in your case it sounds like the manual says 5*. You dont have to match this exactly as your idle numbers can also differ from factory, but its usually a reasonable starting point. You are extremly unlikely to have knock or other spark related damage at idle speeds, so there is no real "dangerous" ignition number for idle, its just what works well for your car. Knock only becomes an issue as the engine comes under mid-high load (note that low rpm can still be high load however when you press the throttle hard)
  6. 1 point

    Link Fury fueling issues w/E85

    Anything above 150Hz means contaminated fuel. Most likely water but could also be diesel or similar. You will have to drain the tank
  7. 1 point

    help for porsche 986 2.5

    your ignition table itself looks like a good starting point the trigger1 offset you have to find yourself with a timing light as suggested by Adam. It can be different on each engine so we cant tell you exactly what number to use. remember to press enter after typing in an offset to get it to stick. As for your idle issue, maybe fuelling? Can you post a log of it happening please? Also disable launch control, its set to "on with DI4/clutch switch" so may be on accidentally which will pull 10deg of timing and other things unhelpful to idle. Unlikely to be your idle problem but I suspect there is something wrong with your oil temp sensor (shows a reading of -33C when ECT & IAT are both ~20C), and you engine compartment temp gauge is reading in KPA because of its calibration, which makes no sense at all.
  8. 1 point

    Link Fury fueling issues w/E85

    It sounds like the ethanol sensor digital input is outside of its operating range and has switched over to the fault/error value. The fault setting is user adjustable but most commonly it is set to zero% so that it if it fails it runs like crap and you know there is a problem. The normal operating range of a flex fuel sensor output is between 50 and 150Hz, the ECU will consider it in error if the frequency goes below 40Hz or above 160Hz. So to get yourself running again you can temporarily set the fault setting to say 85% (or whatever you believe the E% in the tank is at). I would only drive it easy like this though and set it back to zero once fixed. Here's where you find that setting: Now, to check what is causing the problem, with the engine running you can go to the runtimes screen (F12), digital tab, and find the DI that is set to ethanol sensor (in my example below it is DI5), then look at the DI frequency reported on the lefthand side (mine is showing 120.1Hz). If it is showing 0.0% then there is a wiring problem - a loose connection or no power at the sensor or similar. If it is showing a frequency but it is below 50Hz or above 150Hz then it is a fuel contamination problem - most likely water or diesel in the fuel.
  9. 1 point

    Link Fury fueling issues w/E85

    Are you getting fuel flow and pressure? Any idea the condition of your fuel filter.
  10. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    e throttle idle issue

    Outside closed loop control range. If the rpm hangs to high it won’t try to correct.
  11. 1 point

    Flat lines in log file

    I only see one around time 1:04, is this what you are talking about? This would typically indicate an interruption of USB comms. So it just draws a straight line between the points where is lost comms and when it started again. The reason for that will be harder to diagnose. What sort of connection speed do you normally see at the top right of your screen? I only had a quick look, but my feeling is just before that point the MAP drops from around 39/40 to 34KPa, this reduces the injector PW from 0.44 to 0.37, but the lambda actually goes richer. I suspect maybe your injectors are just hitting the point where they are becoming erratic - some are behaving differently than others. Try setting your min effective pulse width limit to something like 0.42 and see if you can reproduce it.
  12. 1 point

    Evo PnP with Turbosmart E-gate

    I would say unknown at the moment. It looks to need a heap of current to operate so we would have to use a solid state relay as none of the ECU drives will do 20A There is also position feed back which currently we have no strategy directly for.
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