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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Adamw

    Base map for toyota 1fz fe

    You have a very simple engine with a very simple ecu, you shouldnt need a base map. Use the Atom Sample map, set the basics like number of cylinders and firing order to match your engine. Set fuel mode to multipoint group, set ignition to distributor or wasted spark to match what you have. Set trigger as below and that should be all you need.
  2. 1 point
    Adamw

    obd2 setup on monsoon g4x

    I havent tested it myself yet but I have a MX+ on order myself. According to Realdash the MX+ is capable of interpreting standard highspeed generic CAN (not just OBD2), so it can give you a direct CAN connection over serial/bluetooth. So you should be able to use realdash and it is much better than any of the OBD2 apps. Set the ecu to transmit DASH2PRO, ID1000. Then use the XML file from my post here to configure realdash:
  3. 1 point
    monya

    obd2 setup on monsoon g4x

    thanks vaughan, ill just have to cruise with my laptop for a few more days not a big deal
  4. 1 point
    Adamw

    Base map for 2jzgte vvti single turbo?

    2JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  5. 1 point
    Adamw

    R32 GTR won't start

    Please do the triggerscope to confirm, but I suspect that will be it. If it was a GTR plug-in that would be no problem as there is an on-board jumper to swap trig 1/2, but no such feature on the 300Z plug-in. If you do the triggerscope and notice the waveform is showing on trigger 2 and trigger 1 is just a flat line, then you will have to move that pin.
  6. 1 point
    Adamw

    Don't connect ecu to PC

    That screenshot suggests the driver has not been installed. Do you have a G4X or G4+ ECU? Do you have administrator privileges on that PC? What version of PC Link do you have? (go to Help>about in PC link to see version)
  7. 1 point
    Adamw

    Combining Power Grounds?

    The ground wires on the Link looms are 18awg, 120°C rated, so will handle about 15A each. Obviously my 60A example was stating the worst case example so that you or anyone else that reads this post in future has good information to base their decisions on. It would be very rare in real life to ever have a scenario where every output is running at 100% DC all at the same time but with power wiring it is important to consider what you have connected, the maximum DC/loads, the wire lengths, the insulation temperature rating and the amount of voltage drop that you consider is acceptable. I have seen many fails in my time where the installer has assumed because the ECU works fine with a 5A fuse that they only need a ground capable of 5A. All ground pins are connected internally to the same ground plane so I cant think of any electrical theory reason to do so, I suspect this is more just a statement that was made to encourage installers not to take shortcuts on arguably the most important wires.
  8. 1 point
    Adamw

    Atlezza to extreme g4+ interface

    Correct, the Altezza plug-in ECU has a CAN to BEAN converter onboard to communicate with the rest of the car. There are plans to offer a version of this as a standalone module for wire-in ECU's in the future but it is still some time away - possibly a year at a guess. As far as I know the factory TRC button and light wont work with our Altezza plug-in.
  9. 1 point
    Adamw

    EZ30R MAP

    You had a few settings wrong mostly to do with fuel. I have fixed them in the version below. Fuel table numbers were too small for modelled mode. Lambda target overlay was enabled and was commanding a Lambda between 8-200? Fuel system type changed to MAP referenced. It looks like you havent done the trigger calibration so you need to do that. The rest will just be tuning. 604246050_EZ30rv1.0 fixed.pclr
  10. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    RB26 Base Timing Woes

    Hi everyone, I do a lot of Skylines and Nissan's in general. Below is a list of the most common things I find with timing issues and software settings when setting up Nissan timing, 1. Always remove the coil and fit a HT lead from the coil to the sparkplug. (DON'T USE THE TIMING LOOP AT THE REAR OF THE CYLINDER HEAD). 2. Don't use dial back style timing lights. 3.Nissan coils have a very high failure rate and or misfire rate, sometimes due to HT spark firing from the primary/secondary winding cover to the mounting bracket that runs through the guts of them, this causes erratic timing gun firing and inaccurate readings. 4. Remember that the timing mark that is last on your left when looking at the balancer when the engine is cranking over is the TDC mark , the first to come around on your right is the most advanced mark. Each mark represents 5 degrees. 5. I always personally move the CAS so that the 3 bolts are dead centre of the CAS adjustment slots. 6. Turn off the fuel ( set from sequential to off). 7. Calibrate triggers, always carry out the TEST ECCS first, keep cranking until a value appears in the box.. 8. DONT FORGET TO TURN TEST ECCS OFF after setting. 9. Make sure battery is fully charged and start cranking, set lock timing to 10 or 15 degrees does not matter, adjust offset in the software to correct the timing, DO NOT MOVE THE CAS. 10. Turn the fuel setting back from OFF to SEQUENTIAL. Allow engine to warm up, hold engine speed at approx. 2000 - 2500 rpm when warmed up and recheck the ignition timing with the timing lock, I normally set the lock timing value to 20 -25 degrees so the engine will rev at that rpm . 11.Once you are happy with the accuracy of your timing, perform an IGNITION DELAY test, rev the engine and adjust the delay to eliminate ignition drift. 12. On a fresh installation also check your sparkplugs are not heavily carbon fouled or wet as this will make setting your timing correctly a nightmare. Regards Dave.
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