Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/31/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    mldc

    Water Pump PWM

    Hello, Did some testing, results are below. Pump: Any pump CWA50, CWA200 or CWA400 would work with these settings. We use CWA200. Wiring: 1 - wired 12V from the PMU16, 25A channel. 2 - wired Aux high state signal. 3 - wired to ecu signal gnd. 4 - simple chassis GND. ECU settings: 50% on cranking is for waking up the pump. After that, You can use higher values then 50%. If your idle is lower then 1000 RPM, adjust the PWM table axis and values to suit your application. Results: Our race car working temperature is 70 C. In my case You can see that pump is working very slowly till 50 C. It's because I need to warm the coolant up as fast as I can. If You change Aux PWM table values, You could get more linear interpolation. Last chart shows how output current is ramping up as coolant temp warming up. p.s: I have wired coolant pressure sensor. On full power pump is making 0.7 bar of water pressure in the system. These settings are good starting point. Thank You.
  2. 2 points
    Adamw

    Cranking time

    For the subaru example the Link ECU may take up to 720deg to sync, the factory ECU may have done something more sophisticated with the extra missing teeth which would allow it to sync in wasted spark mode within 180deg. For the honda with no missing teeth the link should sync within the same amount of time as the factory ecu as there are no special tricks they can do with that basic trigger pattern. So for the honda, most likely a tune issue, for the subaru it will possibly never be as good as the factory startup.
  3. 2 points
    Davidv

    dashboard arduino

    Forget about the CanID you really need to think about Frame ID instead. Your frame ID takes up one of the bytes in the message. So in this example below, it is Frame number 13 . When this can frame is received by your teensy, you need to look a that first byte to tell you which frame it is. If the number is 13, then you know that your values in the frame are Inj timing, Ign Angle, and Inlet / LH target. So you can update those values.
  4. 2 points
    Thank you very much The Link G4X ecu I put on a 2004 subaru forester 2.0 XT with single AVCS and I convert to DBW ,I will come back with all the details of the work I am doing to help anyone who needs it
  5. 1 point
    Ducie54

    Cranking time

    Add pre prime fuel or increase it. Try lowering your injector timing table values, and make sure fuel rail volume does not drain back to the tank as it will take longer to build fuel pressure.
  6. 1 point
    Adamw

    Antenna switch as map switch

    correct. And in the DI settings, turn on the pull-up.
  7. 1 point
    Vaughan

    Antenna switch as map switch

    typically I would expect the DI in the middle. It might be easier though to just have the DI and a ground and to turn the pullup in the DI on
  8. 1 point
    Adamw

    Help with Aem to read on link g4x

    We want to know what voltage AN Volt 5 is reporting. It should be 2.5V with the sensor unplugged. If it is not then you either have wired it wrong or your AEM device is faulty.
  9. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link fury ecu hold power issues

    You need to disconnect inj 7. DI ign sw should be ok to stay connected.
  10. 1 point
    Adamw

    IC Spray won't duty cycle

    The best option I can come up with is below. Forget about the IC spray function, we will instead use a GP timer to achieve the same thing. So set up VA 1, 2 & 8 like below, your Inj 7, Ign 8 & DI2/DI7 setup will all remain the same as they are above. The "Timer 1 >" setting on VA2 is the "on time", the "timer 1>" setting on VA8 is the "period". So examplle below has 3 second period and 50%DC (1.5sec).
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    IC Spray won't duty cycle

    The IC spray status will just show "on" all the time that the activation conditions have been met, the on/off duty cycle actually gets applied to the output afterwards. So it will work if Inj 7 is set to IC spray, but is not going to work with a virtual aux status.
  12. 1 point
    Adamw

    Sensors to Link

    That grey wire on pin 36 probably is in the engine bay somewhere not connected to anything. But it wont be easy to find, it will be hidden under the covering. It will be easier to depin it and swap to your AFM wire.
  13. 1 point
    Adamw

    dashboard arduino

    I dont know what library you are using but with most you shouldnt need to specify the CAN ID if that is the only message that is going to be on the bus - if will just read every message. This bit here looks wrong to me: You want it to switch based on the frame ID which is the number in Byte 0. Based on how the rest of your code is written I suspect this should be something like: switch (rxmsg.buf[0]) Also your byte numbers are wrong in this section you cant have data in byte zero as that is your frame ID:
  14. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link fury ecu hold power issues

    The new relay: Pin 85 to ground. Pin 86 to ignition switched +12V (you can use the original ecu wire that goes to pin 45) Pin 30 to ground. Pin 87 to original ECU pin 16 (ECCS relay control). The Link ECU ecu hold power output should be turned off and Inj 7 disconnected from pin 16. The "ign switch" DI is also not needed.
  15. 1 point
    I have a couple of customers with the 1.8 VVT engine, they run great on the LinkG4+ wiring ecu. And they upgrade from the MS ECU actually, one of them because of a faulty regulator on the alternator. Without warning the alternator start to make spikes of voltage, and burn the MS ecu... We wire in the Link (without knowing about the problem), after just a few seconds of the first start, the engine shutdown. Looking at the log, we saw voltage of over 18V, the ecu cut the fuel and save everything, the ecu never burn like the MS. I have work with MS ecu, and have customers with them on, I really don´t like it...
×
×
  • Create New...