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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman


    Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
  2. 2 points

    dashboard arduino

    Forget about the CanID you really need to think about Frame ID instead. Your frame ID takes up one of the bytes in the message. So in this example below, it is Frame number 13 . When this can frame is received by your teensy, you need to look a that first byte to tell you which frame it is. If the number is 13, then you know that your values in the frame are Inj timing, Ign Angle, and Inlet / LH target. So you can update those values.
  3. 2 points
    Thank you very much The Link G4X ecu I put on a 2004 subaru forester 2.0 XT with single AVCS and I convert to DBW ,I will come back with all the details of the work I am doing to help anyone who needs it
  4. 2 points

    Flex/ Temp Sensor in one?

    All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.
  5. 2 points
    Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch Tacho as gauge.pclx
  6. 1 point

    IC Spray won't duty cycle

    The IC spray status will just show "on" all the time that the activation conditions have been met, the on/off duty cycle actually gets applied to the output afterwards. So it will work if Inj 7 is set to IC spray, but is not going to work with a virtual aux status.
  7. 1 point

    Sensors to Link

    That grey wire on pin 36 probably is in the engine bay somewhere not connected to anything. But it wont be easy to find, it will be hidden under the covering. It will be easier to depin it and swap to your AFM wire.
  8. 1 point

    Sensors to Link

    grounds for these should be on the sensor ground pin on the ecu. not on the chassis. The Zada Tech oiltemp doesn't have outputs. its only a display
  9. 1 point

    Link fury wideband issue

    Problem solved ! new “resistor” spark plugs went in ecu logging is off aswell and wideband doesn’t drop out and works perfectly thanks once again !
  10. 1 point
    Ach na dann halt auf deutsch melde dich mal auf whatsapp ‪+1 (727) 485‑6673‬
  11. 1 point

    high impedance Injectors RB30E+T

    The special drivers on the VL plug-in run high imp injectors no drama with no changes to settings required or even possible.
  12. 1 point

    Evo9 fluctation RPM

    Are you still getting no cam position reported for the VVT intake cam? Your DI settings look correct so I would probably start by running the cam angle test for the LH inlet cam and use the results from that test to confirm your DI offset is correct. Instructions are in the help file, G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test. Use a test pulse count of 4.
  13. 1 point
    Tim D

    dashboard arduino

    There's lots of ways of achieving what you want and I am happy to share my approach which works well. I stream 56 bytes (7 frames) from ECU to dash, then broadcast this data over bluetooth (if laptop is running, the data is logged). I'm guessing you don't have other CAN devices on the same CAN bus as your dash? In this case, the concept of priorities is not that relevant (there won't be any other CAN traffic to contend with). In my MBED dash, I stream 7 frames all on the same CAN ID of 1300 (arbitrary ID). These byes are streamed 'end to end' (as observed on oscilloscope), leaving a lot of time after the last frame to do my processing. All that's required is to write your arduino firmware to recognise the stream. My dash also broadcasts the data wirelessly to my laptop, giving error free datalogging (I chose to stream this at 10 Hz). You are welcome to look at my CAN setup: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjCW7otZjlRO3j8JqtsJj-2yhvleHtnw
  14. 1 point

    dashboard arduino

    Dont use frame ID's for now, this will make what I called a compound message earlier and will make your life more difficult. You can choose whatever you like. The main requirement is every message needs it's own ID and no two devices can be sending the same ID. Lower numbers get higher priority when there is a lot of data on a busy bus but that is not going to be a factor in your case. In OEM buses you will find safety critical devices like ABS and DSC will all be high priority ID's, like <100.
  15. 1 point

    What version is my ECU?

    Sorry I read that wrong, I missed the 1.8 part on the bottom board, yes 1.8 on the bottom board is EThrottle
  16. 1 point

    What version is my ECU?

    The V number on the base map file refers to the bottom board revision, so for your V1.8 board you should be using the Base map "Mitsubishi EVO 9 PCB V1.6+ G4+ Xtreme Plugin".
  17. 1 point

    Evo9 fluctation RPM

    It is definitely a trigger problem but may not necessarily be a crank sensor, it could be the cam sensor or an intermittent connection or a noise issue. Next time it is playing up can you do a triggerscope and attach it here. Here is how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=fGBwPM
  18. 1 point

    Iat Inquiry

    Remsk2, you should look into setting up charge temp table, for IAT sensors that are mounted in the intake manifold it creates a bias that you can setup for ignoring IAT temps under certain circumstances. for ex. low rpm / idle you can have the table only watch ECT and once the rpms pick up and load comes up it can bias the other way. hope that helps
  19. 1 point

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    The labels on the board are correct
  20. 1 point

    SR20DET Base Timing issues/no start

    Turning trigger disc other way around and setting timing offset to -100 has sorted the issue and vehicle started first pop
  21. 1 point

    Aux4 Output Grounded All The Time

    Im wired to Pin 11, Both Pinouts for Ethrottle and NON Ethrottle in my manual show AUX 4, which was the confusion.
  22. 1 point

    NC Miata Trigger Pattern

    Looks like the NC uses the Mazda 3 trigger pattern which is supported by G4+ and G4X
  23. 1 point

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    Go back to basic's. Unplug the expansion loom. Get a little jumper wire or paperclip etc and short the DI7 or 8 pin to the 5V pin that is in exp 2 connector - does your DI then show active?
  24. 1 point

    G4X PC Link issue

    I'll take a video when I get a minute Heres a small video showing the problem. Not sure if it makes any difference but I'm running an old macbook pro with a windows partition https://www.dropbox.com/s/spfw1ivlpiznki6/20200525_094419.mp4?dl=0
  25. 1 point
    Joe Bucci

    Battery Voltage Issue

    Great! That’s simple enough. Thank you!
  26. 1 point

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Well I have an update! I've been working almost non stop so I've been very busy. But this will be the finale - I think. I have just been driving with the tachometer which is less twitchy, and no speedometer. Well as legend has it, last night I was driving to work, and the speedometer came to life! I changed nothing. I did nothing. The RC circuit works and it is kind of accurate. The multiplier works but the speedo is just 'out' at higher speeds. No fault of the G4. This is a classic representation of a USDM 240sx and it's troubles.
  27. 1 point

    Link g4+

    If you send it back to Link head office in NZ we can do a "bottom board swap", this is where we switch the adapter board for one that matches your car. It is pretty reasonable cost, from memory <NZD$300. It has to be done in-house as it goes through a production test afterwards to confirm all is working correctly.
  28. 1 point

    Link fury wideband issue

    wouldn't happen to be running non-resistor spark plugs?
  29. 1 point
    I didnt look at your .xml yet, but attached is one that realdash done for me to try. This is for the pre-configured "Generic Dash 2" (same as Dash2pro) stream sent on ID1000. If this works then you can compare how it is formatted compared to yours. link_ecu_short.xml
  30. 1 point
    Once I'll have the ECU (which I'm going to order hopefully today) and I do the calibration, I will come back with the offset values.
  31. 1 point

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Just a thought, when sending that aux signal through teh RC circuit through the dash are you sending it through the wires which used to go to the gearbox sensor or through the factory speed input into the ECU wires? In my Stagea the speed wires to the dash run the length of the gearbox and go in to a plug in he engine bay then through the body loom to the dash, a modified version of this signal is then sent from the speedo across the car t the ECU as a speed input for the ECU. This means that there are two speed wires for the dash cluster, one in and one out (+ the signal grounds of course).
  32. 1 point
    neil brown

    G4 Internal Map sensor

    Basically yes and remember to turn off an5 as cant have 2 map Sensors active
  33. 1 point

    G4 Xtreme CAN bus update

    email tech@linkecu.com and they will give you an RMA form or similar to arrange the mod. Yes, 36-1 or similar missing tooth crank wheel will be a good option and give you all you need for wasted spark and multigroup injection. No need or advantage for a cam sensor in this case. Going crank trigger, getting rid of the distributor and having 3D mapable ignition will transform an old engine like this.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point

    STi DBC to DBW conversion

    Are you checking the revision number on the bottom "Adapter board" as per pic below. The top board may maybe V1.5 which is current, I think the bottom boards are up to V1.8 now
  36. 1 point

    STi DBC to DBW conversion

    Yes, provided you have a WRX9+ ecu revision 1.7 or later you will have DI10 available of pin A3.
  37. 1 point
    Are you sure you were using the right config file before? Because I already had the CAN output set up correctly in the config I attached above.
  38. 1 point

    Sensors & boost control

    The ECU has a MAP sensor on board so boost is already taken care of. IAT is already there. Oil pressure in a GTR is not connected to the ECU, it is just a standalone gauge in the dash. So my suggestions below are not really super important items to have displayed on the dash but they are good to have connected to the ecu so you can set up some safeties and/or log them (of course they are available to display on the dash too): Oil pressure. Fuel Pressure. Lambda. If its doing track work you may want to consider oil temp also. For boost control you will need a 3 port mac valve. Any Link dealer can supply all of this or there are various 3rd party options. For the Lambda I would highly recommend a CAN bus type controller. For the pressure sensors make sure they are a decent reputable brand.
  39. 1 point
    Thanks Working well
  40. 1 point

    Xy plot hold

    It works the same as time plots etc, the length of time that is displayed when live is controlled by "display time range" setting in PC Logging set up. If set to auto it will show the full length.
  41. 1 point
    Wow thanks very much. It's simple once you look at it already done but I never would have thought of doing it that way. Cheers!
  42. 1 point

    Injector 5 & 6 won’t fire

    Might need a bit more info, what ECU, what car, what engine. What changed between them working and not working?
  43. 1 point

    No RPM when cranking

    I set the triggers to that of the v7-10 jdm and the trigger arming threshold to the v7 and it fired right up. thanks again guys I scoped the new waveform but I somehow lost them or didn't save them in the correct format, so i'll take new ones and upload those later.
  44. 1 point

    Need help on cold start tune

    Next time do a PC log with all parameters recorded. This video shows how to set it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A It is already running speed density. The MAF is only there for air temp. Looking at the little info in your log I would say your MAP sensor calibration looks a bit off, it idles at 20Kpa and goes down to 2Kpa during over run. Unfortunately if it is reading wrong then when you swap to a MAP sensor that is reading right it is going to affect the whole tune. The warm-up enrichment also looks pretty extreme for modelled mode and the IAT should have been turned off for modelled mode.
  45. 1 point
    I have a couple of customers with the 1.8 VVT engine, they run great on the LinkG4+ wiring ecu. And they upgrade from the MS ECU actually, one of them because of a faulty regulator on the alternator. Without warning the alternator start to make spikes of voltage, and burn the MS ecu... We wire in the Link (without knowing about the problem), after just a few seconds of the first start, the engine shutdown. Looking at the log, we saw voltage of over 18V, the ecu cut the fuel and save everything, the ecu never burn like the MS. I have work with MS ecu, and have customers with them on, I really don´t like it...
  46. 1 point

    Over run fuel Cut diognostic help

    I would check the fuel pressure next, whether that be a cheap gauge on a piece of hose taped to the windscreen or a fuel press sensor connected to the ecu will be fine. What you are looking for is the fuel pressure should increase 1:1 with boost pressure. So, say you have 43psi fuel pressure at 0psi boost, you should see 53psi fuel pressure at 10psi boost and 63psi fuel pressure at 20psi boost. Do that and report back. Obviously you will have to see some boost to do this test but I would highly recommend you dont give the car a hard time until this is diagnosed. If it doesnt increase 1:1 then there is a fuel supply problem and that could be a large range of causes which we'd then narrow down with further tests.
  47. 1 point
    I don't have any experience with that particular motor but you should just need to connect your trigger 1 to the crank sensor (I assume the 1.8vvt motor has a crank trigger unlike the earlier 1.6 with cam sensors only) and trigger 2 to your cam sensor. Connect an aux (one of aux1-10, aux ign5-8 or aux inj5-8) and a switched power wire to the vvt solenoid. That should be all you need to do specifically for the vvt wiring. You might have to add wires to the loom for inj3&4 to run sequential fuel as they are connected to the ECU header but the earlier vehicles don't use them and so might not have wires connected to those pins. Other than that have a look through the plugin pinout and the loom in your car to make sure you have all the wires you need to do what you want, you may even be able to use another pin like aux7 (purge) for your vvt control instead of adding an expansion loom. One final note, the factory wiring for the early mx5s has the MAF turning on the Fuel pump so you may want to rewire that.
  48. 1 point
    Hi In case i have one base map from Lancia delta Hf integrale 8v from link G4 or vipec ecu
  49. 1 point
    I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hall Effect voltage

    Hi lostsoul, Just to clear things up here, in your opening question you state you have a Z32 300 ZX but you also state you are using a G4 GTS/GTR PLUG IN. So I am a bit confused which isn't hard these days. The 12 volt supply is ok. There is no 8V trigger supply on the PNP. Steve is correct the GT 101 has 3 wires , black with red stripe = ignition power Black with white stripe = Trigger 1 Black = sensor ground = ECU pin 30 How have you setup your triggers. TRIGGER SETUP SHOULD BE SET TO MULTI TOOTH MISSING. Trigger 1 setting should be set as HALL EFFECT FILTER 1 TRIGGER EDGE FALLING PULL UP ON MULTI TOOTH POSITION = CRANK TOOTH COUNT = 24 MISSING TEETH = 1 TRIGGER 2 OPTICAL / HALL FILTER = 1 PULL UP = ON TRIGGER EDGE = FALLING SYNC MODE = CAM PULSE 1 Make sure the GT 101 has an air gap of approx. 0.040' or 1 mm. You will need to turn the fuel off or disconnect the injectors so the engine doesn't try to start. I never use the timing loop at the rear of the ignition loom, I always fit a HT plug lead from the coil to number 1 plug for the most accurate timing setup. You need to activate CALIBRATE TRIGGERS, Set the timing to 15 degrees, as this is standard timing, but use any value you wish. Adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET UNTIL YOU MATCH THE TARGET TIMING VALUE. You will then need to hit the F12 Key to bring up RUN TIME VALUES Watch the TRIGGER / LIMITS TAB and check it says TRIGGER 1 YES (GREEN) TRIGGER 2 YES (GREEN) And you have a valid rpm signal. As stated you do not want the the trigger 1 and 2 edges to occur at the same time. Regards Dave.
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