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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    S15 plug in

    Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.
  2. 2 points

    Link monsoon wiring

    I think I would avoid that, it looks very suspicious. Look at the main connector, it is missing the housing and looks like the wires are attached directly to the pins??
  3. 1 point
    Since there is some evidence of a compression issue based on your starter current, the first thing I would do is buy a cheap compression gauge and do a basic warm WOT compression test. Get that possibility eliminated first.
  4. 1 point

    Can Lampda problem

    The 5 wire cable is the problem, this means the serial pins are connected, it should only have 2 pins (CAN H/CAN L) connected. The easiest fix would be to either cut the grey and yellow wires near the ecu or pull the terminals out of the plug.
  5. 1 point

    Can Lampda problem

    As per the instructions, yes.
  6. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Can lambda set up issue

    You mentioned can hi and lo as green and white, just in case you have them that way round, can hi is white and can lo is green. Also have a lookcat the can tab in the runtime values to seeing there are any errors. HTH, Richard.
  7. 1 point

    Rb25det sensors

    The easiest option for the IAT sensor is an exp loom. Otherwise you can run your own two wires back to the ecu and connect it to pin 36 (AN Temp 2) and Pin 50 (sensor gnd). For a MAP, that ECU has one onboard so that is probably the easiest. If you really want to you can connect an external one to the MAF input but there is no 5V power supply at the MAF connector so you would have to get that from the TPS or ECU connector.
  8. 1 point
    this is how to input an ecumaster can egt board. Should be similar (byteorders may be different ) HTH, Richard .
  9. 1 point

    2JZ-GTE VVT-i base map?

    This will get you in the ballpark. It wont control the sequential turbos though. 2JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  10. 1 point
    Hi, On the default settings I've broken a few sets of E-throttle gears, and I've seen a few other people mention similar. (I've busted 3-4 gears already) So I've been looking at ways to mitigate this. Initially I started just looking at the throttle mapping itself, setting the max and min to 2% and 98% so it's not trying to bang into the end stops. But then realized that the e-throttle clutch can be used to help as well, by softening the clutch near the end stops. So I'm using a table like this, and havent had any breaks since: Perhaps it might need fine tuning on an individual basis to make sure it's not slipping too much near the extremities, but it's tested as working well tracking to its target even with high motor DC / fast accel/decel rates.
  11. 1 point
    Can you do a triggerscope and post the log file using the Fury, as this will show more about the ECUs interpretation of the trigger signal ? HTH, Richard.
  12. 1 point

    Engine harness rewire, now won’t start.

    grab a trigger scope while cranking. Lets see if its seeing a good crank signal
  13. 1 point

    Link G4+ with GaugeArt Gauge

    Try this, I got all of your list in there except battery volts. 190803Tune with Haltech CAN.pclr
  14. 1 point

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    In simple terms, the FP control system is set up so that the ECU tells a separate fuel pump controller whether to run the pumps fast or slow. It does this by sending a voltage (or ground) signal down the aux2 pin when certain cirteria are met. Relevant parameters to your situation are: RPM threshold: the RPM at which point the signal is sent down this wire to the FP controller DC%: injector duty percentage - works as an OR operation with RPM. If you go over this injector duty cycle or this RPM then the control voltage is sent to the controller polarity: whether the "switch to high mode" signal is to send ground or to send "nothing" (ie the "go slower" command is to send ground). The expected state of the FP controller are: off (when the fuel relay is turned off - not relevant here) slow: some pwm'd low output mode fast full flow rate. What i've been trying to explain is that you need to identify how the voltages on that FP controller input (aux 2 output) affect what the controller does with the pump speeds. It sounds like the "dont do anything" signal from the ECU as it stands is "fast mode". This will work fine if you just set both thresholds to really high numbers (10k rpm & 99%DC), but this means you dont have a "slow mode" option for low load times. It just means your pump is noisy-er and wears quicker. If you want to reconfigure this to the point where idle-ish loads swap to low flow mode, you would first need to identify what the signal is that makes it swap to high flow mode, then configure the ECU output to provide that signal. Note that some outputs can send 12v or ground, and some can only send ground or nothing.
  15. 1 point

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    sounds like progress. Next thing then is to figure out what FP control settings will make it behave properly. Try changing the polarity of aux2 to high and see if the problem get better/worse. can you hear the fuel pump at idle? Maybe have someone put their head in the boot and check? I'd be tempted to disconnect aux 2 from the ecu temporarily (cut the wire, un-pin it from a connector anywhere between ECU and FP controller), then at idle (so pump is running), connect it to ground, then floating, then 12v and see which connection makes the pumps jump up into high flow mode. From there you can work out what to configure in the ECU, or if you need to add a relay to deliver the right voltage.
  16. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Knock output signal

    Set up a Virtual Aux to turn on when knock level exceeds your chosen threshold, and then set an Aux out to turn on when the Virtual Aux is active. HTH, Richard.
  17. 1 point

    Link G4+ fury setup in r32 GTR

    Yeah, that will probably work although it will need a bit of trial and error on the aux output table to get the voltage output right.
  18. 1 point

    Injector impedance setting

    most link's dont have the option to change it as the only support saturated (high impedance) mode. If it exists in your ecu it is under fuel > injector setup. Because you have been running with a ballast resistor in place, the ECU has always been running in high impedance mode so there is nothing you need to change. Low impedance injectors + resistor ~= high impedance injectors. It sound like you already know this, but you need to remove the ballast resistor & bridge the wires that used to go to it, otherwise you have no power to your injectors. Just change the injector dead times, flow rate etc and you should be good to go. You will likely need to re-tune some of your fuel table after this.
  19. 1 point


    On a kitcar application I would suggest going for a wirein unit the likes of the G4+ Fury being an idel pick for that application.
  20. 1 point

    Fuel Level Through G4+ Software

    You can show it as a 0-100 figure via a AN volt and a cal table.
  21. 1 point

    AN temp to display on racepack iq3 from G4+

    Try these: r31 New CAN.rcg R31 New CAN.pclr
  22. 1 point

    AN temp to display on racepack iq3 from G4+

    It is not easy at the racepak end as they arent very configurable. We can possibly repurpose one of the channels you are not using. If you attach your ecu and dash config I should be able to have a go when I get a minute.
  23. 1 point
    Adam, It worked for me also,
  24. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Fuel level

    Its usually a variable resistance sender. Should be able to use just about anything and feed it in on a spare AN input. Will need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v reference as most are 2 wire. Then just see what it does outside the tank and create a calibration based on that. Most older units are not going to be a linear calibration so you will want to check multiple points from empty to full. Outside of that it should be relatively easy to get it on the CAN bus and on its way to the dash.
  25. 1 point


    I dont see many clues to where the problem is, it appears to be a misfire. Can you try increasing dwell to about 2.0 and give it about 25deg timing and see if it changes anything. I assume you have changed some stuff in the attached map compared to the log as the log shows 19deg timing @ 6000 but the map shows 24deg. Do something like this just for a test:
  26. 1 point
    You don’t need to change anything, the factory sensor works fine. If you do want to change to a sensor with isolated ground (2 wire) then the easiest option is to connect the 2nd pin to the shield and use that as it’s ground. For the boost solenoid, connect to factory wires.
  27. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    I find it funny you didnt bother to try to rectify the incorrect distributor position before doing all the extra work and spending money on COP.
  28. 1 point

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Not likely to cause an issue.
  29. 1 point

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Yep that will do as a start and we can do a trigger capture if needed to refine that
  30. 1 point

    MAP Sensor Calibration Failed

    Check the ground and power supply to the sensor is good.
  31. 1 point

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Yes completely forgot to say that too! Make sure you do as Simon has said! I forgot and fried some new coils lol
  32. 1 point

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Make sure to change over the spark edge too for the K20 coils.
  33. 1 point

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Remember to change the dwell table to accommodate the k20 cop. I can send my table later if needed when I get home from work.
  34. 1 point
    It really needs to go to a tuner. You cannot really guess how a different turbo is going to affect VE, and where it does it will likely need both fuel and ignition adjustments.
  35. 1 point
    Tim D

    New ECU has died

    Thanks all for your help guys! It turned out to be fuse number 11 in a fusebox I didn't know existed! Hidden away behind the immobiliser keypad, which you have to pull off it's hinges to reveal the fuses. Apparently this fuse feeds Engine ignition system and SRS airbag. It pretty much immobilsed the whole car! Not sure why it blew, perhaps I have an underlying fault that will come back to bite me! Thanks too to https://shopbhp.com/ - great tech support as always
  36. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    Your error low value for the Lambda is set to 1 Volt. This should normally be 0.05 V or sometimes might need to be 0 Volts to suppress errors on start up. Also, try the Link NTC1-8 & IAT1-8 Calibration and see if they are closer (that normally fixes the bottom end of the cal.)
  37. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Cal Table user controlled X Axis

    Not sure if this has been asked for already, but is it possible to allow user controlled assignment of the X axis in cal tables 7-10. The option is almost there but greyed out. For instance, I would like to assign the X axis to a can voltage and then output kPa for MAP. Thanks, Richard.
  38. 1 point

    knock amp for ECU

    Sorry Im not sure I understand what you are asking. All of our G4+ ECU's that have knock control functionality in the firmware (such as Storm, Xtreme etc) already have the audio hardware built in, you connect the knock sensor directly to the dedicated knock input pin(s) on the ECU, no extra hardware is needed.
  39. 1 point

    CAN Hub

    I think the reason they do a CAN hub is probably because most of their devices come pre-terminated "plug and play". We dont do that so much and most feedback seems to suggest the flexibility is prefered. A CAN bus doesnt need a "hub", the whole system was designed to be a main "trunk" that the devices can just splice into parallel anywhere along the line. A $200 hub is just a very expensive way to splice two wires into 4... But the Haltech hub should work with any bodies CAN bus including Link if you really want to pay that much. I've never used these yet but I've noticed recently you can also get CAN bus specific DTM connectors including "splitter hubs" and terminating caps which could be a nice way to do it if you wanted easy expandability:
  40. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Flames on decel.

    latency will not do what you are after
  41. 1 point

    Subaru Knock sensor setup

    Ok, here (quickly) are the steps you would normally take to set up the Knock detection system: Make sure the ignition system is completely tuned.Set the knock gain to a value of 1.Select the correct frequency filter (we have covered this)Monitor the individual cylinder knock levels, adjust the gain until the max reading you get in the levels is approx 500. This is normally somewhere around high rpm and high engine load.Monitor the individual cylinder knock levels and adjust each cylinders gain until the cylinders all read evenly.Fill in each cell of the target table. Set the values to be 10% higher than the values you are seeing on the individual cylinder knock levels. Logging could be a helpful way to do this.Now whenever the knock level of a cylinder exceeds the current value from the knock target table, the ECU will try to retard the ignition timing for that cylinder to reduce the noise (knock) level. You can decide at what rate the ECU will retard the timing, and what the maximum level of retard can be. Benefits to having a quick retard and large maximum retard are engine protection. Benefits to having a slower retard and small maximum retard are the engine does not drop so much power. Lets assume you have ended up with a setup like this: At 50% throttle and 1500 RPM you are normally getting cylinder knock levels of 255, so you set the cell in the Knock Target table to 280. One day you lend the car to someone and they put a lower octane fuel into the tank. This causes the engine to knock lightly and produce cylinder knock levels of 320. The ECU sees this and retards the ignition timing until all affected cylinders (probably all of them) have a noise level less than 280 or until the Ign Retard Limit is reached. Regardless of the cause of the higher cylinder knock levels the ECU will retard the timing in an attempt to reduce the levels to be below the level specified in the Knock Target Table. One good way to view this is by logging on the Timeplot. Display each cylinders level and then then Knock target (threshold). This will allow you to easily see when a cylinder jumps up over the allowable level. Scott
  42. 1 point

    Knock Setup on G4+ Plug in - EVO 6

    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
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