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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/18/2020 in Posts

  1. 1 point

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Few things i've noticed While your dead time are correct you don't have any figures in the SPAT. You have got the idle stepper reset on key off but don't have a ecu hold time.
  2. 1 point
    It cant be done unfortunately (would be nice to be able to I agree). Most people have a google or onedrive account these days, so the easiest option is often just log into your drive, choose upload file, right click and "share link". Pretty sure dropbox is the same but if you dont have an account you will need o register etc. Also, wetransfer is another easy option - just go to the website, click add file, then get link.
  3. 1 point

    G4+ Thunder High side driven GP PWM

    Yeah, I was just going to say the same thing... The PWM Aux out is a low side drive, but it is pulled up to 12V when "off". Depending on how much current the alternator control circuit needs it will possibly work as is without anything extra. If that doesnot have enough grunt to drive it then all you will need to do is wire in an extra pull-up resistor. Something like this I would expect would be plenty:
  4. 1 point
    The CAN H/L are the communication wires - these are the only 2 wires that get connected to the ECU. The Red/black are to supply power to the wideband controller, for these you need to find your own source in the car - normally would be connected to a relay/fuse that is only live when the ign switch is on. Yes, you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor connected across the Can H/L wires somewhere near the wideband connector.
  5. 1 point

    Jeep Cherokee with link g4 storm

    There are a few things wrong in your tune, first up the ones that might cause it not to start 1) you mention you are using a distributor, but the ignition config is set up for wasted spark. This must match what is physically there 2) have you run the trigger1 calibration process? Have you tried adding/removing 360 from the calibrated number to check if you are firing on the exhaust stroke? other issues that wont help but are probably not the real root cause. The calibrations on your ECT, MAP, and probably IAT are all a bit suspect. Your MAP sensor should read the same as BAP with the engine off. Yours reads 15kpa higher. both IAT and ECT show ~40C which is really hot for ambient, but maybe normal in you part of the world, but, your ECT calibration maxes out at 100C which is no where near enough and probably means its incorrect. That your IAT matches this makes me question whether it's wrong too. Your fuel map is all 50's everywhere. try copying the fuel table from the monsoon example base map as a better starting point. ECT & MAP being off by small amounts & the fuel thing wont cause no-start, but it will cause it to run like a dog once it does.
  6. 1 point
    That is a G1 based ecu. It is about 20 years old. Im pretty sure all the Integralink ECU's were laptop tunable but you will need a "Serial Link" box and either a laptop with a serial port or a USB>serial adapter. You will find a manual for it in the G1 section of the forum here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2527. Tuning software is on the Link website, PC Link V2.5. There will not be many tuners around that are interested in tuning them anymore so you will probably have to shop around.
  7. 1 point

    Virtual aux trigger check engine light

    Added "Custom CEL functions" a few weeks back, no ETA but it's in there.
  8. 1 point

    Virtual aux trigger check engine light

    I agree, it would be nice to have a more configurable driver warning light function. Some ecu's I work with have a table or check list where you can select which situations or sensors will trigger a warning. @Davidv. I know its not exactly what you want, but just in case you didnt think of this, I often do something like below to give the CE light output multiple functions:
  9. 1 point

    Pnp Ecu

    March to June I'm told.
  10. 1 point

    BMW ITA calibration

    Yes that sensor normally uses the Hella calibration. The resistance curve for the hella sensor is in the help file if you wanted to measure yours at a couple of points to verify it matches (ice and boiling water is normally a good reference).
  11. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    AEM Water/Meth Boost Safe

    Can wire that wire into a digital input on the ecu. Then could configure the ecu to change boost, timing, and fuel values when that is active.
  12. 1 point

    G4+ Thunder engine bay installation issues

    That's a pretty key piece of the puzzle there. I've never engine bay mounted one, but have put them in some pretty cramped corners of cabins and the internal temps have stayed <40C so I dont think they generate enough heat on their own to cause a problem if you insulated it. Having another look at your pics, you could get a thin sheet of alloy and bolt it between the ECU and the engine, and have the front section run 45* across to behind the headlight so it blocks radiator air, kind of like a lot of people do to shield cold air intakes. You may even be able to run a ducting tube to pick up clean air and run it into the ECU side of the alloy sheild if its still getting a little bit hot.
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