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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    For those looking for a base map to have a play with. Software can be found at http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink 6.15.15.exe Monsoon FW 6.15.6.pclx
  2. 3 points
    TechDave

    Share your Math Channel List

    So this afternoon I sat at the simulator and started mucking about with a few ideas. I wanted to calculate my average speed based on some event, I used a digital input latching on. In the UK we have average speed camera zones, you get snapped at the start and end and they do a distance over time calculation. Often you'll get slowed down by a Karen in an X5 not paying attention, I've always been curious how much I could safely speed up again to catch back up to 50 mph average over the trip. You can do this in log analysis with the statistics view, but this is obviously operating at runtime. So there's a few things here I've done that aren't documented yet, yes they will be. The first is that maths channels can do reassignment, x = x + 1 etc The next is that they're evaluated at 1000 Hz Lastly I know of a few built in functions too. I figured out two methods, of averaging, the first could be used not only for wheel speed, but for really any parameter, lambda, throttle position, you could use another maths function to find lambda, vvt, boost, etc error then feed that function into this one and have an average of error over some time period. This one uses this algorithm: newAverage = oldAverage + (newSample - oldAverage)/sampleNumber the cnt function is a real good cnt function, it counts 1 per cycle (so 1 per millisecond) while c is greater than or equal to 1, so if you feed it a status which evaluates to 0 OFF and 1 ON, then you're away. If you want to use this for Anti-Lag active we might have to get a bit imaginative about an offset, iirc Anti-Lag OFF = 0, ON = 1, Active = 2...etc I had to add a +1 to cnt because on the first cycle it's 0 and that's div by 0, plus the first cycle is the 1st sample too. The 2nd method I came up with was to calculate distance, which of itself is a useful function, then calculate distance/time, again using that good cnt function: Again using reassignment in the Distance function, multiply speed by 1/100th of a second, of a minute, of a hour to get distance travelled per millisecond (rate is 1kHz), I multipled by status to simply switch it on and off. This gives me km. distance a over time, divide by the same multi as above gets us back to an average. You don't need to use 8dp for this, I was just using it while getting my exponents sorted. My functions agree with each other and track to my expectations, but if you spot an error in my maths then shout out edit: unfortunately this is all in kph as I started running out of characters to add the mph multiplier, I've spoken with engineering and we'll see if we can get the length increased, 2.77e-7 helped a lot, but still lost a bit to parenthesis too.
  3. 3 points
    Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    As a feature request can we have the option on which Lambda sensor is used for CLL. As example I'm using 5 lambda sensors. One in the turbo dump pipe and 4 in the turbo manifold using a CAN module. The software uses a average for CLL but would be nice to use Lambda one so manifold pressure is not an influence. Currently to get around this from happening I've set the 4 CAN lambdas as CAN TC.
  4. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    Yep Multi fuel and traction control will be coming
  5. 3 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  6. 2 points
    You can connect both 5v and 12v sensors (and VR sensors etc that have varying voltage output) all to the same sensor ground. The reason to chose 1 type of ground over another is not input voltage, but more: 1) how stable does the signal need to be for the engine to run well (crank trigger = really important, any of the temp sensors = not a big issue if the signal bounces around a few percent). And as part of this, will a ground offset cause an incorrect reading that still looks legit. (eg voltage offset on any analog sensor) 2) How much load is expected to go through the ground circuit. eg do not use a sensor ground as the ground side for a vtec solenoid or anything like that. As long as everything on the sensor grounds is low *current* then adding a flex fuel sensor to sensor ground wouldnt hurt, and generally anything that is an ECU *input* you would lean towards putting on the sensor ground circuits. But if you do see issues that seem like sensor noise once you add it, you can probably move the flex sensor to use a direct ground and not see too many issues. These dont report an analog output anyway so should work just fine with slightly noisy voltage/ground.
  7. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    AEM Water/Meth Boost Safe

    Can wire that wire into a digital input on the ecu. Then could configure the ecu to change boost, timing, and fuel values when that is active.
  8. 2 points
    TechDave

    Fuel film modelling in G4X line

    Accel fuel has been changed to a simplified X-Tau model
  9. 2 points
    Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    Is it possible to have a Math block drop down box with the maths all ready worked out?
  10. 2 points
    TechDave

    G4x Base map

    @Ducie54 I get that if I haven't turned on a fuel mode yet. Switch on a fuel mode and you get it, I'll add a note to the engineers to show a message "no fuel mode selected...blah blah etc"
  11. 2 points
    Simon

    MR2/ST205 and Knock

    Highly likely.
  12. 2 points
    I think with engine temps of 10°C and 94% ethanol you are going to struggle with cold start and there will be little you can do from a tune perspective to help. The vapour pressure of straight ethanol is very low so there will barely be any vapor in the port at that temp no matter how much fuel you dump in, it will just remain as liquid. Somewhere below around 10°C there is not enough vapor produced to support combustion. This is the reason why pump E85 gets reduced to E60-E70 in winter so there is a little more of the volitile solvents available to create some vapor in the port. In regions like Brazil etc where they predominantly use straight ethanol it is common to use heated injectors to get around the problem.
  13. 2 points
    Yep sounds like you got it. Here's a quick demo: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPqylX67m5Oo57-JVv?e=t3SK3f
  14. 2 points
    Ok, all the CAN is done, I havent added any of the new channels to displays or whatever but they should now be available. I have kept all the channel names pretty much as per the BPM datasheet. The only one that is a bit ambiguous is Fuel level. He has used 2 bytes like it is expected to cover a large range of numbers but then says the range is only 0-53L. Just one byte can do up to 255 and 2 Bytes is capable of 65000. So I suspect he might be sending it as "0.1L" rather than whole Litres but that is not clear. If your fuel level says "500 Litres" when you have it all working then set the scalar to 0.1. Marvin-LinkG4UpdatedV2Port2CAN Adam.aemcd7
  15. 2 points
    hexdmy

    tps and MAP accel fueling together

    Bumping this topic... I'm surprised no one else has interest in this. OEM systems I have worked with do this, and it makes sense. At low throttle openings, a change of throttle angle is a better trigger for transient fueling than map for engines that have low / noisy idle vacuum. However, at steady throttle angles, on a turbo engine, as the boost builds, there can be a need for additional fueling, otherwise you get a lean spike. I've noticed this when tuning steady state and then doing transient sweeps, if you tune to the sweep, you get a inverse V in your fuel map. Certainly this is not reinventing the wheel, just doing what the OEM's have already been doing for many years, and for good reason.
  16. 2 points
    Yes, Spartan has a termination resistor built in and it is enabled by default. I would use the Spartan in its default mode, use 1Mb/s and 1024 as ID. Use the attached stream definition. From the testing I have performed, the Spartan doesn't actually work in Link mode, the stream appears to be incorrect. (you would have needed to log in via serial bluetooth to change the mode/ID to Link CAN Lambda mode) HTH, Richard. Spartan3ADVDefaultMode.lcs
  17. 2 points
    I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging) This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports. The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive. The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model: I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec. In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect. If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter. Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all. This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. Blue = 5v Orange = GND Grey = RX Yellow = TX
  18. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    Thunder lambda wiring - 12v

    Here are some measurements from a single 4.9 Lambda sensor running on a Thunder on the bench. The maximum the sensor drew was 1.43A at the end of the heating phase
  19. 2 points
    Adamw

    RPM 65535

    No, the dwell scatter is a symptom of a trigger error. It means the ECU isnt receiving the regular tooth pattern that it expects from the trigger. As I said earlier, the quickest way to find your problem is to get an oscilloscope capture of the triggers - preferably when it is playing up. The Oscilloscope will show us what is wrong with the waveform and this will usually give you some strong clues what is causing it. Do not waste time changing random parts - there could be many hundreds of different scenarios. Your logs show the ECU is not happy with the trigger so you need to start by diagnosing what it is about the trigger signal that the ECU it is not happy about.
  20. 2 points
    I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).
  21. 2 points
    Simon

    S15 plug in

    Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.
  22. 2 points
    Adamw

    Link monsoon wiring

    I think I would avoid that, it looks very suspicious. Look at the main connector, it is missing the housing and looks like the wires are attached directly to the pins??
  23. 2 points
    Adamw

    ECU Unlock fails

    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
  24. 2 points
    Would be nice to be able to see at a glance if edits were additions or subtractions since last marker reset. Say on fuel table you add to a cell than the cell turns blue and if you subtracted the cell turns red.
  25. 2 points
    On my setup I use a 3d table to PWM an engine water pump. After a lot of testing I found using the temp output from the radiator and ECT the best way to control the pump. Takes into account out side temp and vechile speed. Would recommend you try that way to control the thermostat. Ive also connected a 2nd Digital output to the same soild state relay as an override. So if I'm at a set TPS or boost range the pump goes to 100%. After a bit of testing during different conditions I can keep the ECT within 2deg in all situations.
  26. 2 points
    Adamw

    MINI LINK G4+ Borg Warner Speed sensor

    I drew this circuit for someone the other day. I havent tested it myself with a turbospeed sensor so no guarantees but I have used a similar circuit to divide a wheel speed frequency down. Over here you can buy the 4024 binary counter for about $1.50 from Jaycar so I assume they should be easy to find anywhere.
  27. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  28. 2 points
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.
  29. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  30. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  31. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  32. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  33. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  34. 2 points
    Another way to work around the missing inputs on the Thunder (or to divide an input frequency down on other ECUs) is to use a CMOS 4018 IC. No external components required and can be powered from the ECUs +5 Volt supply. To divide by 10, the inverted Q5 output is fed back into the data input pin. I used this last week to divide by 8 on a fury (I fed back the inverted Q4 pin to data) Hope this helps, Richard.
  35. 2 points
    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
  36. 1 point
    JMP

    Mixture Map

    my understanding is Overrun Fuel cut > 0.5 will only show cells where overrun is active. I usually set mine to show Overrun Fuel Cut < 1
  37. 1 point
    TechDave

    From G4 storm to monsoon X

    We added Semi-Sequential as a mode to keep the unused pins free for other aux uses.
  38. 1 point
    G4X solves this with a VA on the starter switch DI, but I do wonder if we need to move the start position function setting into the starter control settings. I'll put it to the engineers.
  39. 1 point
    mapper

    Log analysis improvement

    I like to add another point. I'm really missing a delta function where you have two cursors to see the difference between two points. Once GPS mapping is possible a distance mode for the X-axis will be needed, too.
  40. 1 point
    Adamw

    AVCS cams playing up Subaru STI

    VVT mode is set to Evo 9. I should be set to "Subaru AVCS EJ20".
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    S15 plug in

    AN Volt 4 is fine to use for a temp sensor on the S15 plug-in, there is a jumper on the bottom board to enable a pull-up on that input. So have you definitely got the J8 jumper fitted shorting the two pins together? Make sure it is a tight fit on the pins and pushed all the way on as I have seen a lose jumper before. Another test you can do to confirm is unplug the temp sensor and measure voltage across the pink/blue wires - you should see 5V if the jumper is fitted. If you attach your tune file someone will check it is set up right.
  42. 1 point
    Davidv

    Crank enrichment extrapolate

    Nah there isnt. It's a bit of trial and error. I've spent a lot of time on cold start stuff, because I want my car to be as economical as possible - and cold engine really punishes you if youre just hoofing fuel in. The biggest difference I've found for cold start is advancing the injector timing to around about 220deg BTDC when its cold. When the motor is hot, and you have around 400deg BTDC its great because you're spraying fuel droplets onto the hot port and valves which makes it evaporate. When you have a cold engine though, it just condenses on the walls. So advancing the timing closer to TDC means you're spraying when the engine is actually sucking air in, so more ends up in the cylinder. So you can reduce your enrichments by a whole heap and it runs just as nice.
  43. 1 point
    bit of a caveat - we can only see what is *configured* in the ECU. If something is wired up but the input is configured as disabled, we wont see it in your log or config. The only inputs you have configured are coolant & intake temp, MAP, 4x inputs from pedal and throttle position, and 2x lambda sensors, neither of which gives a useful reading, then wheel speed, brake & clutch switches, AC state, and ethanol % & temp as Digital inputs. I don't think its the case, but you may also be getting some info in via CAN with the pre-defined audiTT can config you have set up. You don't have any multi-fuel setup so even though the ECU knows you have ~80% ethanol, it does not apply any corrections because of this value - if you ever change to non-E85 or get low quality E85, your tune will not compensate for this. The innovate LC1 it looks like you have on ANVolt9 is outputting its the max rich voltage the whole time, so its clearly not working right - maybe dead sensor to match your gauge? The narrwoband sensor you have configured on ANvolt8 is similarly reading a constant, junk value, which is so low it may not even be hooked up (max lean value). This type of sensor is borderline useless anyway even if it works so I wouldnnt bother trying to fix it. The 5 wire o2 sensors typically need an external controller to convert the signals into something the ECU can use, then either CAN or a voltage input to the ECU. follow the wires and see where they connect? Your gauge will have a version of this controller inside it for the second o2 sensor. Similarly, an EGT probe needs a controller and cannot connect directly to the ECU
  44. 1 point
    paulr33

    programmable logic

    I didn’t have any issues with speed and always had fast updates on my display. The problem with my setup was when I needed to change something on the display I had to put it all apart and plug it into the PC seperately to update the 4D systems screen and then the arduino code seperately and also the screen would drop out and flicker because the wiring was always loose from the plugs. The plex usdm is a commercial solution and I can change the scenes and layouts and customise to my hearts content while sitting in the car via USB on the side of the display.
  45. 1 point
    Attached is the stream 1 file to assign the AEM device to Lambda 1-4. You can re-program the Link CAN lambda to lambda 5 in the "CAN devices" tab of the CAN setup. AEM 4ch stream1 - Lam1-4 ID31.lcs
  46. 1 point
    tarlo

    Co2 boost control

    i have co2 boost control on my skyline using the fury to control it. I just use a 1kg co2 bottle with a 3 pot mac valve it works really well however i needed to use pneumatic needle and seat valves to get it smooth which also saves co2 they were about $10 from a air plant shop. Can run a 3psi spring and achieve 40psi can do nice boost vs speed tables etc awesome for track. If you need any info let me know and ill email you pics
  47. 1 point
    bsh

    350Z+ G4+ questions

    @Adamw Hi Adamw, can you also provide me info regarding get rid of the lights in cluster after installing the 350Z plugin? Thanks.
  48. 1 point
    Hi Dave, It takes a bit of time for a update to be approved through the Microsoft store system, if you email the team at Realdash they may be able to give you an idea of when the next version is going to be publicly available which will include the fix for the lag. Cheers, Mark
  49. 1 point
    Adamw

    LINK G4+

    You have it mostly right. 4 tooth sensor goes to trig 1, single tooth sensor goes to trig 2. Both are reluctors. Set trigger mode to "1 tooth per TDC" Set trig 2 sync mode to "cam pulse 1X" and sync position according to where the single tooth is located.
  50. 1 point
    cj

    Need Help turning on Car

    That TPS singal looks better but you still need to run a re-calibration as the first 10-20% of the pedal travel isnt being registered, but that isn't why its stopping at 1500rpm. spark, fuel, afr all look normal. Does it backfire/stutter/etc at 1500 or does it just sound like you're only holding your foot down 20%? It still looks like a mechnical blockage somewhere. If you disconnect the intake piping at the manifold can you rev it higher? This will rule out blocked filter etc. Can you spin the turbo by hand? if it were seized you could be blocking up both the intake and exhaust side which would do something like this. Are your cams intalled properly? either cam being off by a couple teeth (or adjusted too far if they can adjusted) could show up like this. The only ecu-ish thing I can see that might be relevant is that you still have your MAF hooked up, but its calibration is all wrong and the ECU thinks its a fuel pressure sensor! you dont have it configured to use this pressure in the fuelling calculations, so it shouldnt be relevant but its a bit strange. It also only ever shows "pressure" on overrun when you jump off the throttle. This was the same as your last log too. This could be your recirc valve opening and dumping boost, but you shouldnt have any boost there to vent as it never breaks 100kpa at open throttle. I'm not exactly sure what this means the fault is but if it were me i'd look into this a bit and see where it leads.
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