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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/01/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman


    Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
  2. 2 points

    Flex/ Temp Sensor in one?

    All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.
  3. 2 points
    Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch Tacho as gauge.pclx
  4. 1 point

    Sensors to Link

    That grey wire on pin 36 probably is in the engine bay somewhere not connected to anything. But it wont be easy to find, it will be hidden under the covering. It will be easier to depin it and swap to your AFM wire.
  5. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Sensors to Link

    you probably already have an intake air temp. sensor (or a charge temp. sensor). If possible, turn the ignition on with the G4+ connected to pc-link, and have a look at the runtime values (F12) , see if An Temp2 is connected or if it is erroring. You will need to cut the wire on pin 29 (which was narrowband o2), and connect that to the AEM wideband wire. If you look at the diagram I posted above (Nissan diagram) , you will see there are multiple grounds all connected. They are all internally connected inside the Link ECU so it doesn't really matter which one you use (although I would be inclined to use a sensor ground wire like pin 50 rather than a power ground wire)
  6. 1 point

    Sensors to Link

    grounds for these should be on the sensor ground pin on the ecu. not on the chassis. The Zada Tech oiltemp doesn't have outputs. its only a display
  7. 1 point

    high impedance Injectors RB30E+T

    The special drivers on the VL plug-in run high imp injectors no drama with no changes to settings required or even possible.
  8. 1 point

    dashboard arduino

    Dont use frame ID's for now, this will make what I called a compound message earlier and will make your life more difficult. You can choose whatever you like. The main requirement is every message needs it's own ID and no two devices can be sending the same ID. Lower numbers get higher priority when there is a lot of data on a busy bus but that is not going to be a factor in your case. In OEM buses you will find safety critical devices like ABS and DSC will all be high priority ID's, like <100.
  9. 1 point

    What version is my ECU?

    Sorry I read that wrong, I missed the 1.8 part on the bottom board, yes 1.8 on the bottom board is EThrottle
  10. 1 point

    What version is my ECU?

    The V number on the base map file refers to the bottom board revision, so for your V1.8 board you should be using the Base map "Mitsubishi EVO 9 PCB V1.6+ G4+ Xtreme Plugin".
  11. 1 point

    Evo9 fluctation RPM

    It is definitely a trigger problem but may not necessarily be a crank sensor, it could be the cam sensor or an intermittent connection or a noise issue. Next time it is playing up can you do a triggerscope and attach it here. Here is how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=fGBwPM
  12. 1 point

    g4+ evo 9 digital 8

    It is
  13. 1 point

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    The labels on the board are correct
  14. 1 point

    SR20DET Base Timing issues/no start

    Turning trigger disc other way around and setting timing offset to -100 has sorted the issue and vehicle started first pop
  15. 1 point

    Aux4 Output Grounded All The Time

    Im wired to Pin 11, Both Pinouts for Ethrottle and NON Ethrottle in my manual show AUX 4, which was the confusion.
  16. 1 point

    NC Miata Trigger Pattern

    Looks like the NC uses the Mazda 3 trigger pattern which is supported by G4+ and G4X
  17. 1 point

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    Go back to basic's. Unplug the expansion loom. Get a little jumper wire or paperclip etc and short the DI7 or 8 pin to the 5V pin that is in exp 2 connector - does your DI then show active?
  18. 1 point

    G4X PC Link issue

    I'll take a video when I get a minute Heres a small video showing the problem. Not sure if it makes any difference but I'm running an old macbook pro with a windows partition https://www.dropbox.com/s/spfw1ivlpiznki6/20200525_094419.mp4?dl=0
  19. 1 point

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Well I have an update! I've been working almost non stop so I've been very busy. But this will be the finale - I think. I have just been driving with the tachometer which is less twitchy, and no speedometer. Well as legend has it, last night I was driving to work, and the speedometer came to life! I changed nothing. I did nothing. The RC circuit works and it is kind of accurate. The multiplier works but the speedo is just 'out' at higher speeds. No fault of the G4. This is a classic representation of a USDM 240sx and it's troubles.
  20. 1 point

    Link g4+

    If you send it back to Link head office in NZ we can do a "bottom board swap", this is where we switch the adapter board for one that matches your car. It is pretty reasonable cost, from memory <NZD$300. It has to be done in-house as it goes through a production test afterwards to confirm all is working correctly.
  21. 1 point

    Link fury wideband issue

    I'll bet that's your problem, tons of EMI from non resistor plugs
  22. 1 point

    Link fury wideband issue

    wouldn't happen to be running non-resistor spark plugs?
  23. 1 point
    nothing wrong with the sound of the exhaust, I'm not hearing any misfires ? And I would not have used the quoted valve clearances...always go a little bigger.
  24. 1 point

    Link fury wideband issue

    I'd look into grounding. You mentioned a custom Mil-spec harness. Hopefully you get a diagram so you can verify where the grounds go and if they are clean. Dont forget about the sensor grounds as well.. As far as I know they are not supposed to be grounded. You could run a voltage drop test to check or just run new separate grounds and see if anything changes. Could also be a nicked wire..
  25. 1 point
    I didnt look at your .xml yet, but attached is one that realdash done for me to try. This is for the pre-configured "Generic Dash 2" (same as Dash2pro) stream sent on ID1000. If this works then you can compare how it is formatted compared to yours. link_ecu_short.xml
  26. 1 point

    GP idle (or idle offset) table

    Try it first and let us know if it doesnt work as is. Typically for a load related idle up you dont want a hold/decay as if the load gets activated again while it is still decaying from the last activation then the offsets accumulate and you end up pushing the idle higher and higher so the closed loop system will get integral wind up trying to pull it back to target. There is a new feature coming out soon (I think it is in the next release) which adds a delay on and delay off timer to digital inputs and aux outputs, so I suspect that will take care of it turning on/off too often.
  27. 1 point
    Once I'll have the ECU (which I'm going to order hopefully today) and I do the calibration, I will come back with the offset values.
  28. 1 point

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Just a thought, when sending that aux signal through teh RC circuit through the dash are you sending it through the wires which used to go to the gearbox sensor or through the factory speed input into the ECU wires? In my Stagea the speed wires to the dash run the length of the gearbox and go in to a plug in he engine bay then through the body loom to the dash, a modified version of this signal is then sent from the speedo across the car t the ECU as a speed input for the ECU. This means that there are two speed wires for the dash cluster, one in and one out (+ the signal grounds of course).
  29. 1 point
    neil brown

    G4 Internal Map sensor

    Ask for 4 bar part number mpx4400ap I think
  30. 1 point
    neil brown

    G4 Internal Map sensor

    Basically yes and remember to turn off an5 as cant have 2 map Sensors active
  31. 1 point

    Wheel speed from CAN input

    You dont need to set up any input, you just need to assign which wheel/wheels you want to use for driven and non driven in the speed sources menu. For a FWD road car the best choice for driven is probably "Max Front speed", and for non driven "Average rear speed".
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point

    Erratic AFR's cold start / idle

    The response from your lambda sensor is very slow, it takes over 5 seconds for the lambda to reach minimum after the minimum fuel trim is applied. So this oscilation is caused by having the control rate much faster than the system response time. 5 seconds is pretty extreme, usually it is more like 0.5-1.0 second at idle so it may indicate there is a physical set up issue such as the sensor too far down the system or it may be a controller or sensor issue. So firstly drop the CLL rate down to its minimum (1Hz), if there is still oscillation after that then you will have to reduce the gains too.
  34. 1 point

    STi DBC to DBW conversion

    Yes, provided you have a WRX9+ ecu revision 1.7 or later you will have DI10 available of pin A3.
  35. 1 point
    Are you sure you were using the right config file before? Because I already had the CAN output set up correctly in the config I attached above.
  36. 1 point

    Removing glue from old circuitboard.

    How do I remove the glue from where the circuit board joins the enclosure on a VL ecu.
  37. 1 point

    Sensors & boost control

    The ECU has a MAP sensor on board so boost is already taken care of. IAT is already there. Oil pressure in a GTR is not connected to the ECU, it is just a standalone gauge in the dash. So my suggestions below are not really super important items to have displayed on the dash but they are good to have connected to the ecu so you can set up some safeties and/or log them (of course they are available to display on the dash too): Oil pressure. Fuel Pressure. Lambda. If its doing track work you may want to consider oil temp also. For boost control you will need a 3 port mac valve. Any Link dealer can supply all of this or there are various 3rd party options. For the Lambda I would highly recommend a CAN bus type controller. For the pressure sensors make sure they are a decent reputable brand.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Working well
  39. 1 point

    Xy plot hold

    It works the same as time plots etc, the length of time that is displayed when live is controlled by "display time range" setting in PC Logging set up. If set to auto it will show the full length.
  40. 1 point
    Wow thanks very much. It's simple once you look at it already done but I never would have thought of doing it that way. Cheers!
  41. 1 point

    2JZ sequential staged

    You proposed inj wiring would be correct. Having 3 low impedance injectors connected to a single drive is a bit boarder line but give it a try. Set peak to 10A and hold to 3A. I suggest for staging mode you use Sec/Pri flow ratio, set the Sec/Pri flow ratio to 1.0, and you want 50% as the largest number in your staging table. For Sec PW lockout I would suggest something more like 1ms to make sure you are working in the Injectors linear region.
  42. 1 point
    The afr lean at 4-4.5k rpm is cause misfire, I have add fuel up to 10ve+, it still misfire at that range of rpm
  43. 1 point

    Injector 5 & 6 won’t fire

    Might need a bit more info, what ECU, what car, what engine. What changed between them working and not working?
  44. 1 point

    Need help on cold start tune

    Your log doesnt contain much info. (not even engine rpm) Reconfigure the logging part and for PC logging, you can add pretty much all variables. Then run it again and post the new log.
  45. 1 point

    Over run fuel Cut diognostic help

    I would check the fuel pressure next, whether that be a cheap gauge on a piece of hose taped to the windscreen or a fuel press sensor connected to the ecu will be fine. What you are looking for is the fuel pressure should increase 1:1 with boost pressure. So, say you have 43psi fuel pressure at 0psi boost, you should see 53psi fuel pressure at 10psi boost and 63psi fuel pressure at 20psi boost. Do that and report back. Obviously you will have to see some boost to do this test but I would highly recommend you dont give the car a hard time until this is diagnosed. If it doesnt increase 1:1 then there is a fuel supply problem and that could be a large range of causes which we'd then narrow down with further tests.
  46. 1 point

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    If you have more than one output set to tacho you will run into problems, turn off that second tacho output
  47. 1 point
    I don't have any experience with that particular motor but you should just need to connect your trigger 1 to the crank sensor (I assume the 1.8vvt motor has a crank trigger unlike the earlier 1.6 with cam sensors only) and trigger 2 to your cam sensor. Connect an aux (one of aux1-10, aux ign5-8 or aux inj5-8) and a switched power wire to the vvt solenoid. That should be all you need to do specifically for the vvt wiring. You might have to add wires to the loom for inj3&4 to run sequential fuel as they are connected to the ECU header but the earlier vehicles don't use them and so might not have wires connected to those pins. Other than that have a look through the plugin pinout and the loom in your car to make sure you have all the wires you need to do what you want, you may even be able to use another pin like aux7 (purge) for your vvt control instead of adding an expansion loom. One final note, the factory wiring for the early mx5s has the MAF turning on the Fuel pump so you may want to rewire that.
  48. 1 point
    I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
  49. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hall Effect voltage

    Hi lostsoul, Just to clear things up here, in your opening question you state you have a Z32 300 ZX but you also state you are using a G4 GTS/GTR PLUG IN. So I am a bit confused which isn't hard these days. The 12 volt supply is ok. There is no 8V trigger supply on the PNP. Steve is correct the GT 101 has 3 wires , black with red stripe = ignition power Black with white stripe = Trigger 1 Black = sensor ground = ECU pin 30 How have you setup your triggers. TRIGGER SETUP SHOULD BE SET TO MULTI TOOTH MISSING. Trigger 1 setting should be set as HALL EFFECT FILTER 1 TRIGGER EDGE FALLING PULL UP ON MULTI TOOTH POSITION = CRANK TOOTH COUNT = 24 MISSING TEETH = 1 TRIGGER 2 OPTICAL / HALL FILTER = 1 PULL UP = ON TRIGGER EDGE = FALLING SYNC MODE = CAM PULSE 1 Make sure the GT 101 has an air gap of approx. 0.040' or 1 mm. You will need to turn the fuel off or disconnect the injectors so the engine doesn't try to start. I never use the timing loop at the rear of the ignition loom, I always fit a HT plug lead from the coil to number 1 plug for the most accurate timing setup. You need to activate CALIBRATE TRIGGERS, Set the timing to 15 degrees, as this is standard timing, but use any value you wish. Adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET UNTIL YOU MATCH THE TARGET TIMING VALUE. You will then need to hit the F12 Key to bring up RUN TIME VALUES Watch the TRIGGER / LIMITS TAB and check it says TRIGGER 1 YES (GREEN) TRIGGER 2 YES (GREEN) And you have a valid rpm signal. As stated you do not want the the trigger 1 and 2 edges to occur at the same time. Regards Dave.
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    MAP or MGP for fuel table

    Hi, to put things into an easier perspective, if you use MGP as your axis you will have true Barometric compensation, if you just use MAP the baro comp will not be applied and you may have mixture issues at altitude. Regards Dave.
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