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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/24/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    AEM Water/Meth Boost Safe

    Can wire that wire into a digital input on the ecu. Then could configure the ecu to change boost, timing, and fuel values when that is active.
  2. 2 points
    TechDave

    G4x Base map

    @Ducie54 I get that if I haven't turned on a fuel mode yet. Switch on a fuel mode and you get it, I'll add a note to the engineers to show a message "no fuel mode selected...blah blah etc"
  3. 2 points
    I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging) This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports. The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive. The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model: I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec. In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect. If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter. Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all. This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. Blue = 5v Orange = GND Grey = RX Yellow = TX
  4. 2 points
    Simon

    S15 plug in

    Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.
  5. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  6. 1 point
    iceman

    Nissan speedo signal

    Google once again is your friend...
  7. 1 point
    Adamw

    Nissan speedo signal

    Sorry, I don’t normally use that pic host but sometimes have to when my normal one is not available. I’m overseas for a couple of weeks but should still have that pic at home or I can do the test again and redraw something. Give me a reminder in about 10 days.
  8. 1 point
    Adamw

    Pedal Shifter G4+

    Typically done as a downshift blip. You will find this function in Gear shift control, overrun downshift throttle trim. Note it is not "rev matching", the purpose of the blip is to unload the dogs to allow it to change out of gear. It is typically trail and error, how much you need depends on a lot of factors such as the the size of the plenium, the mass of the rotating components, throttle size and how much back cut the dogs have.
  9. 1 point
    Just create a new channel scalled to km/s (multiply km/h by 0.000278) From the AEM help file:
  10. 1 point
    jetape

    Seadoo Rxp 2018 and Rxt 2018

    This is basically just updated 4tec motor. The throttle is analog. I had it running for a while but then out of the blue I started having trigger issue and it was very hard to start. Basically because of the 3-cylinder configuration on these motors the trigger signal is messy, it speeds up and slows down during cranking. I submitted a ticket for a pre-defined trigger option but my hopes are very low that it will ever get looked at, just not enough interest. BTW Vipec = Link ECU so you could grab vipec and have plug&play setup, keep stock dash with iBR functionality. Removing iBR means you lose trim control, not ideal for racing.
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    Wire type and sizes

    The Link looms use a Japanese standard thin wall automotive wire known as "AVSS". It has a higher temp rating (120°C) than common PVC insulated wire. Most of the wires are 0.56mm2 from memory except for the two main grounds and the main red 14V wire, these are 0.75 or 0.85mm2 (sorry I cant find my old spec sheet). If you are in USA, a very similar alternative would be 20AWG TXL for the small ones and 18AWG TXL for the power/gnds.
  12. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link 4 pin plug

    Knocklink.pdf LambdaLink.pdf
  13. 1 point
    Adamw

    Subaru Knock 6-13Khz

    I would say unknown, but most likely it is a wideband sensor. 6KHz should be in the ball park
  14. 1 point
    First step will be to get the PC link tuning software connected to check what the MAP sensor is reading at key on engine not running. Fault 10 and 11 both relate to AN volt 1. It is indicating its at either ground or 5V it cant be both at the same time so there might be a setting issue.
  15. 1 point
    cj

    Evo 6 jerky coming off throttle

    As a starting point set a speed threshold on your idle ignition timing (maybe around 10kph). Also drop the rpm threshold for this to somewhere around 1500. Whats happening right now is that as soon as you get off the gas pedal ignition idle turns on and immediately pulls all your ignition timing. There are probably a bunch more contributing factors I havent had time to check yet. Do you have a lambda sensor installed? its showing 0 the whole log. Also, can you please include injector effective pulse width as a logged parameter & fuel table 1 value? Or better yet set it to log all values if its a PC log.
  16. 1 point
    Adamw

    rb25det vct wiring

    It will need to be an ignition switched +12V source.
  17. 1 point
    rrob

    rb25det vct wiring

    Blue wire/white trace is +. Comes in via the connector near the ecu, also powers idle control and narrow band 02.
  18. 1 point
    Adamw

    AVCS cams playing up Subaru STI

    VVT mode is set to Evo 9. I should be set to "Subaru AVCS EJ20".
  19. 1 point
    dynoiasi

    Boost solenoid valve advice

    Confession time: the hose I thought was going to the wastegate was going to compressor and the other way around I switched them around and now target boost seems to come around 25 % wastegate and controllable. I'm sorry to have wasted your time and to have driven the car in overboost dozens of times while trying to understand what's going on.... unfortunately I was just too sure of how those hoses were connected and I thought of any other complicated explanation but this. So car pulls strong and it seems that soon the tuning will be done. Next priority is getting the cold start decent but I'll meet you in other topics about that Thank you for your help and good luck! Best regards, Florin
  20. 1 point
    Simon

    Matching wire for flying lead harness.

    AVSS is what the wire is not ADSS. http://prd.sws.co.jp/cables/en/avss.html
  21. 1 point
    this is how to input an ecumaster can egt board. Should be similar (byteorders may be different ) HTH, Richard .
  22. 1 point
    cj

    Engine harness rewire, now won’t start.

    grab a trigger scope while cranking. Lets see if its seeing a good crank signal
  23. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Fuel level

    Its usually a variable resistance sender. Should be able to use just about anything and feed it in on a spare AN input. Will need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v reference as most are 2 wire. Then just see what it does outside the tank and create a calibration based on that. Most older units are not going to be a linear calibration so you will want to check multiple points from empty to full. Outside of that it should be relatively easy to get it on the CAN bus and on its way to the dash.
  24. 1 point
    You don’t need to change anything, the factory sensor works fine. If you do want to change to a sensor with isolated ground (2 wire) then the easiest option is to connect the 2nd pin to the shield and use that as it’s ground. For the boost solenoid, connect to factory wires.
  25. 1 point
    Adamw

    Possible bug in Thermistor Calc?

    The problem is the ecu uses linear interpolation between the cells in any table, yet a thermistor is highly non linear. Since you have such a big gap between the 24°C and 94°C cal points it will be very noticeable. The reason you see difference between voltage Vs ohms cal is because the voltage divider calculation will inverse the non-linearity affect (I suspect the voltage cal will be closer to reality than the ohms in this case). You typically want no more than 10°C break points for a thermistor cal. Pic at the bottom to show the effect, straight lines are your cal, pink line is more like how the sensor would behave. I would suggest you try the pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration as that looks like it matches your sensor reasonably well.
  26. 1 point
    Adamw

    Cam Position Parameter Lag

    I think the problem probably is you due to not using a compatible trigger & VVT mode. Your Inlet LH error counter is continuously counting up and the Inlet LH signal is reporting extra pulses. Try setting trigger mode to M52 VVT and VVT mode to M52, this should work with the single tooth cam and 60-2 crank. Trigger offset and VVT offset may need to be set again with this change. If that doesnt help please post another log and the tune file. I suspect something is also mechanically wrong if this is the case, in my experience the 2 state vanos is usually near instant switching (less than 50ms at a guess), you dont normally need to consider cam position at all, usually just switch VE tables at the same time the vanos is activated.
  27. 1 point
    tarlo

    programmable logic

    I would love in the future if you could step up virtual logic to be programmable perhaps in function block or text with Boolean (and and or if etc) to allow lots of flexability to the end user. the virtuals are great but can be limiting. Thanks
  28. 1 point
    It is not possible to decode them all since they are sent as bit fields. The stream below will give you the common errors for Lambda 1 using the CAN DIG inputs (you can view these on the runtimes screen). Set it up with ID 431, extended format. CAN DIG 1 will indicate "AFR1 Ready" CAN DIG 2 will indicate "AFR 1 Heater open Error" CAN DIG 3 will indicate "AFR 1 VM Error" and so on down the list. The LED's on the device give pretty much the same information so Im not sure how useful it is. AEM Errors ID431.lcs
  29. 1 point
    Simon

    Sorry to ask. What software?

    Its a G4+ so you will ned the latest PC link which is currently 5.6.6 http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.6.3601 Setup.exe
  30. 1 point
    Hi all, Bit of an odd one, just wanted to ask how best to limit the torque output via the engine mapping, the basis of this question is owing to the torque limit on my transmission - basically looking to limit peak torque in certain scenarios. I will be getting my forged engine fully mapped on a rolling road but just wanted to ask the question now. Basically my forged engine will have the capacity to have a higher torque output than my upgraded gearbox is rated to, I know that my gearbox can cope with slightly more than its rated torque but am looking at how to limit peak torque when needed - a bit like an engine rev limiter. I am guessing I should be able to limit the torque by pulling timing out in certain cells at certain boost levels using a 3D table? Eg: 7 psi - no adjustment 14 psi - no adjustment 21 psi - some adjustment 28 psi - more adjustment For my build, here are my limits (to give everyone an idea): 1.8 Litre engine Forged rods and pistons (9.5:1 compression) Supertech valvetrain rated to 8,500rpm CSS strengthened block able to cope with around 600bhp Stock gearbox with upgraded 3rd and 4th gears - rated to 295ft/lbs although have chatted to someone who ran 365 ft/lbs through them Now, a stock engine with a low boost turbo (7psi) makes around 220 bhp and 185 ft/lb torque, and probably around 250bhp and 200ft/lbs at 12 psi, have seen figures for a forged engine making around 420bhp and the 365 ft/lbs at 35 psi on a GT3071 turbo, I am looking at an EFR 6758 for my build which should flow well at lower boost but not run out of legs at the top end. Is anyone able to guesstimate the sort of torque I should be expecting? I think I should be ok with a bar of boost in terms of torque but anything more I think I might need to run a limit of some sort to keep it around the 300ft/lb mark - basically looking to make the most power I can (as the rest of the engine can make it). I have also seen these engine make around 500bhp at 7,500 rpm and 28psi on a 6262 but the peak torque is probably at around 460 ft/lbs - tad much! Plan for my build is an 11 second 1/4 mile car but daily driven - plan to run full power at the drag strip then drop boost pressure to a lot lower for the road - basically looking to make sure that the gearbox holds ok for the couple of drag runs to prove it can run the time but then turn it down at all other times. Sorry - was a bit of a long post but was just wondering what everyone suggests.
  31. 1 point
    redmist

    programmable logic

    I've currently got all 6 seven segments and the 8x8 Matrix to work with Link "generic dash" can bus output. There is some work to do with my neopixel library conflicting another of my libraries, and a weird issue with my can bus adapter only picking up frame 0 or 1 when you start to introduce a delay (like writing to the 7 Segs). However given a correction of my frame issue I'm not seeing any problems with refresh from the Nano. Weird thing is the Nano will do several hundred main loops prior to picking yet another frame 0 from the buffer. Although there is a deep imprint of my keyboard in my forehead I'm enjoying battling with the cheap ahrse and very flashy intelligent 7 Segs, 8x8 and neopixels... the cheap can bus adapter... not so much.
  32. 1 point
    KarlB

    Higher voltage on Aux 9/10 supply

    Bumping this to provide an update. The car is back together now (after some cylinder head woes). We removed four of the six throttle return springs and re set all the throttle plates. It idles nicely with fully closed throttles at 850RPM with 15 degrees of timing. The e-throttle response is much better. It's still not great, but seems to be acceptable. I did some testing with retarded ignition timing before pulling the springs and I wasn't happy with the resultant exhaust gas temperature. The idle base DC table is set to 3D and uses AP(main) as the secondary axis. This allows tip-in to be smoothed out by feeding in air via the idle motor at low pedal angles.
  33. 1 point
    Adamw

    R&D question - cylinder deactivation?

    But you also need to hold the exhaust valves open on the deactivated cylinders otherwise you just have massive pumping losses. So not only do you need the mechanisim to do this but you also need an engine like a hemi where there is enough piston to valve clearance for the piston to travel past TDC with the exhaust valves fully open.
  34. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  35. 1 point
    dynoiasi

    Boost Control

    Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software. Best regards, Florin
  36. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  37. 1 point
    TechDave

    Force GDI no output on DI pump driver

    Attach your basemap or send it to tech@linkecu.com
  38. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  39. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  40. 1 point
    Stevieturbo

    EJ207

    Quite simple, bad tuning can destroy even the best engine in a matter of seconds.
  41. 1 point
    Was this problem solved at the end? I am having the exact issue with Link G4+ plug ins on my FD. "When AC pressure switch(in series w AC button) is open due to high pressure, voltage @ pin 4V is 0v=gnd. This means that Vipec ECU does not understand that AC systempressure is to high and just keeps running the AC compressor. " Once the AC pressure switch 'clicks', I no longer able to turn off AC compressor, it will stay on. It's like the pressure switch is working the opposite way as it suppose to be.
  42. 1 point
    I will give some comments. The Link CAN Lambda was designed specifically to work with our ECU, it has bi-directional communication so not only is data received from the device but the ECU also sends data to it. This allows the proper warm-up strategy to be applied during start up, EMAP compensation can be applied correctly for situations where there is back pressure and if a sensor is reporting an error condition the ecu can disable CLL or in the case of multiple sensors, ignore the failed one from "lambda average" calculations. The stuff like temperature, heater voltage, etc are mostly only used for diagnostics. Most of the 3rd party devices will have no receive - they only transmit data so they dont know if the engine is running or how long it has been running for to apply the correct warm-up strategy (potentially shorter sensor life). Many of the 3rd party devices will send some sort of error or status message but in many cases it is not in the format that our ecu needs it to be able to do stuff like disable CLL. In some cases you will be able to log these errors but unlikely act upon them. I have used a few of the X-series AEM's on budget installs and they have worked ok for me to date but I do hear/see some reports of short sensor life with them more often than others. To get the extreme response speed they certainly dont use a Bosch chipset or control the sensor in the way Bosch designed it to be so sensor life is possibly a side effect that. Some claim they are not using a genuine Bosch sensor either. Yes, an ecu controlled relay is a good idea. It still wont give the proper heat up strategy but it is better than nothing. No. Free-air cal is not particularly useful in my opinion, it was something made famous by Innovate as they didnt use the Bosch fitted calibration resistor. Air has about 21% O2, exhaust gas has none when less than 1 Lambda. So it only calibrates on the lean side of the curve and even then it is like trying to calibrate your precision 1volt voltmeter using a 2000V source... Ecotrons ones have a good reputation - I have never used one myself but only ever hear good comments about them. If you are not in a big hurry I know 14point7 are releasing a CAN bus "Spartan 3" soon, I tested a prototype a while ago. I use his analog ones for most of my budget installs and have very good success with them.
  43. 1 point
    cj

    tps signal disabled when car running

    It looks like you havent run a TPS calibration. Here is the voltage being seen by the TPS input in you "no tps" log. Its changing just fine, assuming you only went to 20% ish throrottle.Your TPS % reads 0 the whole time, but that is because the calibtration is off. It is currently set to 0% = 1.315v, so anything under this voltage shows as 0%. Your actual 0% voltage is around 0.48V so the first 1/3 or so of your TPS movement isnt showing up. Now here is the TPS% vs the AN volt3 input from your "yes tps" log. Notice that the TPS% doesnt move until you hit 1.3V or so, but the voltage itself (and the real TPS angle) has moved quite a lot already. Turn ignition on, then go to ECU Controls menu -> TPS calibrate. This should fix it up. Once you've run this, check that your TPS% angle registers all the way from 0% to 99%+ and that the percentages line up with how much you are actually pressing the throttle.
  44. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    Lambda 1 vs AEM wideband

    Yes, its there for that exact reason it will also mean that Lambda 1 is Stoic.
  45. 1 point
    Adamw

    NEW FIC 1000cc Subaru SPW ad. table

    FIC has the data if you look at their GM EFI Live datasheet here: http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/efilive1000 But, this data does not look real to me, I would not trust it. If you graph it you will find it is just a straight line. You are probably better to leave it set at zero or go to a supplier that gives you real data.
  46. 1 point
    cj

    Ecu hold power

    Thats not really the idea behind hold power. Its supposed to be so you can reset idle solenoids and the like back to zero position. Trying to use it to avoid something like this runs a big risk that if you crank it for too long, the hold power timer expires, and the ECU turns off while its still cranking and you probably wouldnt even notice. Better bet would be to re-wire your key output in this case so that the main relay is triggered by IGN1 key pos *and* by start key pos (ie run a wire from the key start position output to the main relay trigger). Are you sure your ignition circuit drops out entirely when key is at start pos? Ive heard of accessory power dropping out, and in some cases there are 2 IGN feeds off the key and 1 will drop out (for heater, aircon, wipers etc), but in most cases where people think they have this behaviour its actually just voltage drop due to the load being drawn by the starter.
  47. 1 point
    cj

    3uz throttle map

    look up the wikipedia article for PID tuning. There is a gif on the page about half way down that changes to show the effect of increasing P, I and D values. Very roughly, P is how quickly it reacts (how quickly it applies motor current), I is the aggressiveness (how much current it applies), and D is like a smoothing filter. None of these descriptions is technically correct but it can be a lot easier to understand to this way than fully understanding the maths behind it. I had noticed that your TPS response was a bit slow in general compared to your AP - about 200-250ms, which has got to be noticeable when driving. Here's the process i've used to tweak ethrottle PID's in the past (in case the 1uz settings dont give you the feel you want, or you just want to understand "why" a bit better): without the engine running, set "run mode when stalled" to "run throttle" set your ethrottle target table so AP0% = TPS20%, then interpolate up to AP100% = TPS80%. ie your TPS will only span between 20% and 80% open with full accel pedal travel. probably store the ECU config at this point. It gives you a safe point to return to if you have to cut power a abort testing later on. go to the logging window in pclink, start a log, and make APS main and TPS main the only 2 parameters visible (or at least the only 2 in one of the groups) press the accel pedal slowly a few times then quickly a few times, then quickly but only to 1/2 or 1/4 pedal travel and notice how much delay you see between the AP line and the TP line. now go to the ethrottle PID numbers and bump up P by 1 and repeat the tests. What you are looking for is minimal delay between the AP line moving and the TP line starting to follow it. At this stage dont worry about overshoot too much, just bump it up towards 8 or 9 until you stop seeing much improvement. dont go past 9 though. Make some notes as you go about what numbers you are testing. If you get the throttle to the point its just oscillating and wont stop after a second or 2, turn the ignition off, start again at slightly less aggressive numbers. Now you basically play D off against I. D you increase or decrease by 1 or 2 points at a time. I by 0.02 or so. If the TP response looks "lazy" - ie its heading towards the AP line but starts to taper off before catching up to it (so TP gets to within 1-2% of AP and the takes a second to get the last bit), lower D until that tapering off point is really close to the AP line. If you see the TP line overshoot the AP line and oscilate a few times before settling down or if it doesnt stop oscillating at all, increase D until you only have no overshoot or maybe a single small overshoot then it stablises at the AP line. To evaluate I, looks at whether the angle of the TP line matches that of the AP line when you press the pedal. If TP isnt a sharp enough angle, ie its heading in the right direction but not steeply enough, increase I (by a tiny bit). If TP likes to overshoot the target/AP by more than a couple percentage points, then lower I a bit. Note: this is why you tweaked the throttle target table to between 20 and 80 - you cant normally see overshoot below 0 or above 100. You'll likely see overshoot worst when making large quick changes, and you'll see lazy response worse when making small slow changes. When you have numbers you are happy with, put the throttle target table back to its normal values and save everything. Regarding the APS and TPS calibration failures, you can do this manually by hooking up all 4x sensors but leaving your existing voltage values in place, setting ethtrottle to "quiet mode" mode, and pull off your intake pipe so you can manually move the throttle blade. start a log, then press the pedal all the way down, hold it for a couple seconds, then release for a couple seconds. repeat 2 or 3 times. Now push the throttl blade all the way open and hold it, then all the way shut (you need to press it shut, they like to sit at 3-4% when left alone), repeat a couple times. Now add parameters to your log view for AN 1, 5, 6, 7 - these are the raw voltages from the APS and TPS sensors. have a look at the min and max values for each sensor and enter these manually into the APS and TPS calibration screens. Also note if either of the SUB sensors doesnt have a full range of travel (ie it flatlines above 70% or something), you need to enter the main% value when the sub% stops increasing if this happens too. You should now be able to switch to "run when stalled" throttle mode and run another log, but this time look at APS main, sub, TPS main, sub, and you should see all 4 tracking between 0 and 100% together (subject to a littel bit of latency in the TP numbers depending on how well your PID's are tuned).
  48. 1 point
    Adamw

    DBW throttle on link g4+ celica st205

    If you are prepared to send it back to NZ, it can be modified by adding a couple of wire links to give you E-Throttle capability. We can also give you instructions to get it modified locally but you will lose your warranty if not performed by us.
  49. 1 point
  50. 0 points
    Simon

    AUDI TT '99 ABS ASR LIGHT ON

    Hi If you swap back to the factory ECU do you have faults showing as the 99 model is what our test car was so would expect it is well sorted. Are you able to post or Email in a copy of the set up so we can confirm the CAN is happy.
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