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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    TechDave

    From G4 storm to monsoon X

    We added Semi-Sequential as a mode to keep the unused pins free for other aux uses.
  2. 1 point
    cj

    Injector Setup

    I havent double checked those values for you , but if you copied those values from a hondata base map they are probably pretty accurate. I've done the same thing myself a few times and things have worked well. Just make sure it was a hondata tune with 270's and not 310's or whatever the newer ones were. Also, the voltage breakpoints in the hondata tunes are different than link default so you have to adjust your axes in the link config or play with excel a bit
  3. 1 point
    Adamw

    Two-stroke aux injectors

    Ok, below is a basic made-up example. To explain, fuel table 1 is the main VE table, this basically tells the ecu how much air the engine is inhalling (assuming it was naturally aspirated). If you set the fuel load equation source to "MAP", then this table is multiplied by MAP in the background, so even though it only has TP on the VE table axis, if you double the manifold pressure the ECU already knows there is double the air going in and therefore adds double the fuel. The calculated fuel pulse width is also further multiplied by the Lambda target table in the background, so this compensates for the fact that you normally want a richer mixture at say 200Kpa and 100%TP, than you would want at 100Kpa and 100%TP. Since the turbo creates back pressure on the exhaust side and may effect volumetric efficiency, you may find that as you increase boost more and more the fuel mixture will start to drift off target, to fix this you have the 4D fuel table. The 4D fuel table is an "adder". So if you have "10" in a cell it adds a further 10% fuel in that region, if you have a "-10" it removes 10% fuel in that region. You would set up this table with MAP Vs RPM, usually most of this table will be zero and you will only have to tune a few cells in the high RPM/High boost corner to get the fuel mixture right at all boost levels you intend to run. To tune these two tables, you start with the 4D table all set to zero, run engine on lowest boost possible (wastegate spring only) and tune the main VE table all over. Then increase boost say 50kpa and run engine, through whole RPM range, adjust the relevant row of the 4D fuel table if it needs some fuel added or removed at the top end. Repeat at higher boost levels until you are at the maximum you intend to run. After the ecu has calculated the correct fuel volume that needs to be added, then you can choose how you want to split that between primary and secondary injectors. Again this is very flexible, these can be the same size or different sized injectors, you can have both injectors spraying half the fuel each or you can have all fuel going through the secondary inj at high RPM or whatever you like. In the example below I have primary and secondary injectors both the same size. I have all fuel going through the primary below 100Kpa MAP, then above 100Kpa I fade in the secondaries and by 180Kpa I have half the fuel going through the primary and half through the secondary.
  4. 1 point
    Adamw

    Injector Setup

    Set short pulse width adder to 0, with such small injectors they will never be operating with a short pulse width so it doesnt matter. Injector flow @ rated pressure will be 270cc & 300Kpa. Set base fuel pressure to whatever static fuel pressure you are running (with engine off).
  5. 1 point
    Adamw

    From G4 storm to monsoon X

    Set it to semi-sequential will give you the same set-up as before.
  6. 1 point
    Adamw

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Without this the ECU will turn off as soon as ign is turned off so the stepper cant re-zero itself. This means next start up it will not be in the position the ECU believes it to be and will mess up idle control a lot. So this is the first thing that needs to be fixed before we can really diagnose if there is an idle problem. As per Ducies advice, 5 seconds will do. Do us another log after changing this. Edit, added later: In both places it nearly stalled the fan had just turned on as it came down to idle, Your fan step is set to 70 (crazy number?) but the idle valve only changed by about 3 steps - did you change this setting after the fact? Your fan is turning on/off a lot so I would set the hysteresis higher so that doesnt happen as often. You will want to set the fan step properly. It looks like overrun fuel cut is also playing a part. I would either turn it off temporarily to see how much it is interfering or bump up the highlighted cells to about 1800RPM.
  7. 1 point
    Ducie54

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    In the help file type in Stepper Reset, explains 2 different ways for a reset. 5 sec hold time should be enough i reckon. I would give it a clean first so it give repeatable results. I would also target a slightly richer AFR at idle until you get the idle sorted .95 is always my start point until i get idle stable.
  8. 1 point
    Ducie54

    Subaru Idle Fueling Issue

    Few things i've noticed While your dead time are correct you don't have any figures in the SPAT. You have got the idle stepper reset on key off but don't have a ecu hold time.
  9. 1 point
    It cant be done unfortunately (would be nice to be able to I agree). Most people have a google or onedrive account these days, so the easiest option is often just log into your drive, choose upload file, right click and "share link". Pretty sure dropbox is the same but if you dont have an account you will need o register etc. Also, wetransfer is another easy option - just go to the website, click add file, then get link.
  10. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ Thunder High side driven GP PWM

    Yeah, I was just going to say the same thing... The PWM Aux out is a low side drive, but it is pulled up to 12V when "off". Depending on how much current the alternator control circuit needs it will possibly work as is without anything extra. If that doesnot have enough grunt to drive it then all you will need to do is wire in an extra pull-up resistor. Something like this I would expect would be plenty:
  11. 1 point
    The CAN H/L are the communication wires - these are the only 2 wires that get connected to the ECU. The Red/black are to supply power to the wideband controller, for these you need to find your own source in the car - normally would be connected to a relay/fuse that is only live when the ign switch is on. Yes, you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor connected across the Can H/L wires somewhere near the wideband connector.
  12. 1 point
    cj

    Jeep Cherokee with link g4 storm

    There are a few things wrong in your tune, first up the ones that might cause it not to start 1) you mention you are using a distributor, but the ignition config is set up for wasted spark. This must match what is physically there 2) have you run the trigger1 calibration process? Have you tried adding/removing 360 from the calibrated number to check if you are firing on the exhaust stroke? other issues that wont help but are probably not the real root cause. The calibrations on your ECT, MAP, and probably IAT are all a bit suspect. Your MAP sensor should read the same as BAP with the engine off. Yours reads 15kpa higher. both IAT and ECT show ~40C which is really hot for ambient, but maybe normal in you part of the world, but, your ECT calibration maxes out at 100C which is no where near enough and probably means its incorrect. That your IAT matches this makes me question whether it's wrong too. Your fuel map is all 50's everywhere. try copying the fuel table from the monsoon example base map as a better starting point. ECT & MAP being off by small amounts & the fuel thing wont cause no-start, but it will cause it to run like a dog once it does.
  13. 1 point
    That is a G1 based ecu. It is about 20 years old. Im pretty sure all the Integralink ECU's were laptop tunable but you will need a "Serial Link" box and either a laptop with a serial port or a USB>serial adapter. You will find a manual for it in the G1 section of the forum here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2527. Tuning software is on the Link website, PC Link V2.5. There will not be many tuners around that are interested in tuning them anymore so you will probably have to shop around.
  14. 1 point
    cj

    G4+ Thunder engine bay installation issues

    That's a pretty key piece of the puzzle there. I've never engine bay mounted one, but have put them in some pretty cramped corners of cabins and the internal temps have stayed <40C so I dont think they generate enough heat on their own to cause a problem if you insulated it. Having another look at your pics, you could get a thin sheet of alloy and bolt it between the ECU and the engine, and have the front section run 45* across to behind the headlight so it blocks radiator air, kind of like a lot of people do to shield cold air intakes. You may even be able to run a ducting tube to pick up clean air and run it into the ECU side of the alloy sheild if its still getting a little bit hot.
  15. 1 point
    NongNot

    Cruise Control Setup

    Hi Davidv Actually I used Switch that has ON output is 0 volt and I already set in An Volt to 0 volt also. But when I press ON button, nothing happen. For more information, I setup the AnV Error Low = 0.00 , High = 5.00, and Error Value = 5.00 V Thank you very much
  16. 1 point
    Jurgen Biggelaar

    engine fan setup for g4

    ^+1 Best explanation I have seen for ages Rod. Actually there are 3 ways you can test... Rod's ways will all work, and there is nothing wrong with those, or the feature designed to test something for instances JUST like this Option #3. Use the 'Test On' function on that auxillary (select 'test on' as the function and 'high' or 'low' side as an option. But there could also be another thing at play here. If this is a plug in G4, it is very possible it may not be able to high side drive anything that the OEM set up didn't usually. What G4 unit do you have Robert. Jurgen
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