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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  2. 2 points
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.
  3. 1 point

    SOI question

    Yeah sorry, I done that spreadsheet about 10 years ago and have obviously made a mistake in one of the formulas for end of injection somewhere. I dont really have time or interest in fixing it right now. You will have to get your calculator out...
  4. 1 point
    Hi all, Bit of an odd one, just wanted to ask how best to limit the torque output via the engine mapping, the basis of this question is owing to the torque limit on my transmission - basically looking to limit peak torque in certain scenarios. I will be getting my forged engine fully mapped on a rolling road but just wanted to ask the question now. Basically my forged engine will have the capacity to have a higher torque output than my upgraded gearbox is rated to, I know that my gearbox can cope with slightly more than its rated torque but am looking at how to limit peak torque when needed - a bit like an engine rev limiter. I am guessing I should be able to limit the torque by pulling timing out in certain cells at certain boost levels using a 3D table? Eg: 7 psi - no adjustment 14 psi - no adjustment 21 psi - some adjustment 28 psi - more adjustment For my build, here are my limits (to give everyone an idea): 1.8 Litre engine Forged rods and pistons (9.5:1 compression) Supertech valvetrain rated to 8,500rpm CSS strengthened block able to cope with around 600bhp Stock gearbox with upgraded 3rd and 4th gears - rated to 295ft/lbs although have chatted to someone who ran 365 ft/lbs through them Now, a stock engine with a low boost turbo (7psi) makes around 220 bhp and 185 ft/lb torque, and probably around 250bhp and 200ft/lbs at 12 psi, have seen figures for a forged engine making around 420bhp and the 365 ft/lbs at 35 psi on a GT3071 turbo, I am looking at an EFR 6758 for my build which should flow well at lower boost but not run out of legs at the top end. Is anyone able to guesstimate the sort of torque I should be expecting? I think I should be ok with a bar of boost in terms of torque but anything more I think I might need to run a limit of some sort to keep it around the 300ft/lb mark - basically looking to make the most power I can (as the rest of the engine can make it). I have also seen these engine make around 500bhp at 7,500 rpm and 28psi on a 6262 but the peak torque is probably at around 460 ft/lbs - tad much! Plan for my build is an 11 second 1/4 mile car but daily driven - plan to run full power at the drag strip then drop boost pressure to a lot lower for the road - basically looking to make sure that the gearbox holds ok for the couple of drag runs to prove it can run the time but then turn it down at all other times. Sorry - was a bit of a long post but was just wondering what everyone suggests.
  5. 1 point

    programmable logic

    I've currently got all 6 seven segments and the 8x8 Matrix to work with Link "generic dash" can bus output. There is some work to do with my neopixel library conflicting another of my libraries, and a weird issue with my can bus adapter only picking up frame 0 or 1 when you start to introduce a delay (like writing to the 7 Segs). However given a correction of my frame issue I'm not seeing any problems with refresh from the Nano. Weird thing is the Nano will do several hundred main loops prior to picking yet another frame 0 from the buffer. Although there is a deep imprint of my keyboard in my forehead I'm enjoying battling with the cheap ahrse and very flashy intelligent 7 Segs, 8x8 and neopixels... the cheap can bus adapter... not so much.
  6. 1 point

    trigger 2 sync problem

    I notice in your screenshot above your camshaft position doesnt go below 15deg. I think this is due to your tooth offset table and maybe the trigger 2 offset are not correct. The first cell of the tooth offset table should always be zero. Subtract 14 deg from all the numbers in your tooth offset table and add 14 deg to your trigger 2 VVT offset.
  7. 1 point

    trigger 2 sync problem

    The ECCS sync is only applicable for Nissan 360 opto trigger mode. It will show no for all other trigger setups.
  8. 1 point

    programmable logic

    Yeah the transciever is miniscule though, doesnt increase footprint: https://www.tindie.com/products/Fusion/dual-can-bus-adapter-for-teensy-35-36/ The refresh rate is good especially when optimized to minimize pixel writes. But if youre spamming it with lots of fast moving stuff or your code has a lot of unnecessary writes it can chug a bit. Moving over to realdash on a tablet is a whole bunch less work to be fair. But this is a learning exercise for me as much as anything else. The start up time, for me, is something that needs to be super snappy. Thats where a microcontroller is so good. I want to migrate my project to a twin core stm32 and a custom board at some point. So i wont need nextion it can control an lcd panel directly. But this is a huge amount of work and ive got lots to learn in the meantime.
  9. 1 point

    programmable logic

    Nice job David! Thank you for the pointers to Pauls well presented site. Thankyou Paul for spending the time and effort to detail such. I gather the reason people have migrated from the arduino mega/nano to the teensy (or other platform) is because it's just too slow? I suspect by the time I generate interrupts from the flappy paddles and insert new frames on the canbus I'll simply ask too much from this stupidly cheap device. My dash is currently being benched (chose a mass of 7 segments as they are bright in sunlight for the open race car), have it testing libraries and some basic code to pull frames and data from the canbus... it just needs some proto board... me to design and print a case (I'll keep away from PLA now thanks Dave!!!) and a tonne of tidying in code and wiring. Think I'll design and print the case around the ability to replace it with a Raspberry Pi Zero W. The nano seems fast enough, but does not seem reliable. I've also broken apart the canbus frames with my Pi based radio telemetry such that given the 7 segment and nanopixel libraries I shouldn't have too much issue migrating to the Pi.
  10. 1 point

    AEM - can

    Also have a look at the new CAN one from 14point7. I have been testing a pre-production one for him for 6 months or so and it is great. About the same cost as AEM but uses the newer LSU-ADV sensor. Uses the same CAN ID and structure as the Link CAN Lambda so is easy to set up. https://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-3-adv
  11. 1 point

    Heat soak

  12. 1 point

    programmable logic

    Good work. I ended up going for a plex usdm but making the arduino CAN display did help me learn it all and how it works which was good fun
  13. 1 point
    Yep, i have S54 throttle motor on my 3s Beams with black top 20v ITBs. I even wired in a cruise control switch from a 350z last week and now have full functional cruise control with DBW itbs. It makes my 25 min commute to work at 85mph quite comfortable.
  14. 1 point

    WHO RUNS A Toyota 1zz on Monsoon??

    I have a base map I could provide you for this engine. It was a tuned example with headwork and cams but stock compression ratio and injectors etc so should be a damn good starting point for you. Drop me a PM if you need it.
  15. 1 point
    Mario Schneiderbanger

    Bigger injectors

    What if you started with stock injectors in traditional mode and have a solid calibration and now you’re switching to ID injectors and want to use Modeled fuel? Anything else besides the obvious: -flow rate -dead times -short pulse
  16. 1 point

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Our base map is not set up in modelled mode so the fuel map is not VE, it is % of master fuel. As per the manual that comes with it you need to adjust the master fuel when trying to start it. Do the cam angle test on each camshaft to confirm and set the offsets correctly on trig 2 VVT and DI2. Set the test pulse count to 3 for this test.
  17. 1 point
    Update: I was able to Use 3 Virtual outputs with ECT based conditions to vary the cluster output. It doesnt make use of all the bars since im out of conditions on the Physical Aux but its enough to know when the engine is warmed up. and overheating. May be able to add another Virtual aux to expand 2 more variables.
  18. 1 point

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    I believe not all models have the two separate brake switches, you can turn DI5 off. So you have changed it from cruise switch? Yes, this is normal. It sounds like you just need to clear the fault codes. They will remain as faults until they are cleared. The AC request actually comes from the "AC Module" rather than just a direct connection to the AC switch. Usually the AC Module will have all the fail safe logic built-in so it wont send a request to the ECU if for instance the AC pressure or evap temp is not within its normal range. Depending on how complicated the system is you may be able to fool it by jumpering the pressure switch or similar.
  19. 1 point

    id1000 subaru cant setup injectors. help

    Try this one. You had switched it from traditional mode to modelled mode, but the fuel tables for these are completely different. All I've changed here is: swapped out the fuel table to one from a modelled fuel base map - it should be close enough to start but will still need to be tuned Disabled IAT correction - not usually needed for modelled fuel put in the ID1000 deadtimes and short pulse adder times. I would also suggest you run through some sanity checks for all your sensors before you start it. Looking at the last seen runtime values, the MAP sensor was reading 14kpa higher than atmospheric even with the engine off. The IAT & MAF IAT are differnent by nearly 10 degrees, and you TPS is reading 61% open. These all might be just quirks of the way you are testing it so far, but better to be safe than sorry. 2063677987_SubaruWRXV9G4XtremePlugin-model.pclr
  20. 1 point

    At a loss with fuel map tuning

    revisit the grounding for the LC2
  21. 1 point

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    This is definitely correct at least for JDM models, I have helped a few guys locally set up cruise control on these cars and all buttons work. I just checked against the drawings I have at home, I found a couple of mistakes with Aux 6 & C11. I have corrected all the mistakes I can find in the pic below. We call the "+ve" pin the one that if connected to +12V opens the throttle. For whatever reason Subaru (and Toyota) use a different convention to everyone else - they call the "+ve" pin the one that closes the throttle. The ECU still has all inputs and outputs onboard - but they are not always connected to anything. ANV12 i not available on this model. That is just the settings for the Ethanol sensor, you still need to wire it to one of the DI's and assign that DI to ethanol content sensor. Calibration unknown. If you are running on petrol then dont bother. If you are running on flex fuel then the ECU will get fuel temp from the flex sensor.
  22. 1 point
    I would suggest you start by logging a hot start and posting that and your tune file here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  23. 1 point

    programmable logic

    Ages ago I was using cruise control to do some road tuning for best fuel economy. I'd drive a set piece of road at a set speed. Then had digital inputs on the dash that added different combinations of ignition timing. So I'd go do a run at XYZ speed, which has lots of ups and downs in it to vary the load. Record a log file. Then come do that same thing again, with different amounts of ignition advance added by the switches. This showed clear as day in the CC per min fuel usage logs, and TPS, which was best. So I took this a step further and made an arduino canbus unit that would wait for certain conditions to be met (cruise control on,steady driving no tps movement) When cruise control is turned on, a virtual aux is triggered by the Teensy which sends a digital canbus input to turn on a 4D ignition table that has an analog canbus input as the load axis. Then the Teensy has a full separate ignition table in it, and outputs the can value that represents ignition advance for the table. It would collect 100 samples of fuel economy. Advance the ignition 3 degrees. wait for conditions to stabilize again. Then collect another 100 samples. Then it would compare the results of the test. If the results were better above a certain margin, it deinterpolates the current load/rpm ignition timing addition back over the 4 cells that its interpolating from. Then it checks that if there is any lower load area or lower rpm that has less ignition timing than this, it will update those values too. If the economy got worse, it would creep the ignition timing slightly back from where it started from, and do it again. Basically it's auto road tuning for MBT. (But only works in a fairly narrow rpm and load range, because you dont have cruise control turned on at 8000rpm WOT) So it iteratively builds up an ignition timing map on its own and keeps fine tuning it. Starting with 10 degrees timing everywhere, it builds up a relatively sane ignition timing map in about an hour or two which is really cool. But whats nice is that when the car comes to a stop I can store the values to Eeprom so they're not lost when car shuts off. So I'm also planning to shuffle the knock sensing logic over to this board too, so I can store long term knock trims instead of losing everything when car turns off. However, this then also scope creeped into a context sensitive plug and play digidash / 3d printed housing. With a whole bunch of other crap going on like auto dimming, changing screens based on what you're doing, xy plots, histograms, etc etc. Also takes all of the standard dash inputs like lights, indicators, etc etc. Work in progress! (Its for an 80s car hence LCD type look) Working through some bits at the moment like estimated range off remaining fuel, and things like that. Has been a good learning experience and I'm pretty happy with the results so far. Once the auto dimming became functional It's been really nice to drive with. Trust me though, you dont want to see the code hahaaha.
  24. 1 point

    Zada tech can dash adapter

    The note at the top of each stream tells him the endianess. Generic dash says Low byte first which is little endian. Race tech says high byte first which is big endian. Bit rate is user configurable but 1Mbit/s is our normal convention for these two streams. The ECU is capable of 100K, 125K, 250K, 500K, 1M.
  25. 1 point

    Trigger1 err

    Sounds like you should run a trigger scope capture while holding rpm at just over 5500, maybe we will see some noise in the trigger signals
  26. 1 point
    Ok, heres a bit of info on the power circuit to help you diagnose: The main power grounds are pins 107,108,116,10,20. Our ECU doesnt need all of them but check at least a couple of those have good continuity to ground. Pin 45 is a 12V "ignition on" signal from the ignition switch - the ecu doesnt use this for power but when pin 45 is live (12V), a mosfet inside the adaptalink (think of it like a relay), connects pin 16 to ground. Pin 16 is the trigger to the main ECCS relay coil. when pin 16 is grounded by the ecu, the ECCS relay should engage and then supply 12V to pin 49 & 59. Pin 49 & 59 is the main power supply to the ecu and the ecu will then power up.
  27. 1 point

    Knock control and corrections

    It focuses the input closer to the expected knock frequency so you should get less background noise coming through. Making it easier to identify knock
  28. 1 point

    programmable logic

    I know its a bit of a bodge, but I've done this by using CAN inputs and outputs. You can output variables over can, do maths/programming/etc on your canbus device using the information, then send the variables back into the ECU. I do this to log a litres per 100km parameter into the ECU so I can view it in the logs with everything else (only cc per min is available otherwise) I've also used a canbus input as the load axis on an ignition table and had my device trim the ignition timing with more logic than is available on the ECU. Check out Teensy 3.6 and the IFCT library for it.
  29. 1 point

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  30. 1 point

    Usb to CAN (tuning cable) pinout

    I've just used a multi-meter on my tuning cable to work out the pins. Pin 5 is VCC Pin 4 is D- Pin 3 is D+ Pin 6 is GND.
  31. 0 points


    Hi If you swap back to the factory ECU do you have faults showing as the 99 model is what our test car was so would expect it is well sorted. Are you able to post or Email in a copy of the set up so we can confirm the CAN is happy.
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