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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  2. 4 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  3. 3 points
    Adamw

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  4. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  5. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  6. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  7. 2 points
    Adamw

    Engine protection question

    Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.
  8. 2 points
    MarcD

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  9. 2 points
    Andre@HPA

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  10. 1 point
    Adamw

    Possible bug in Thermistor Calc?

    The problem is the ecu uses linear interpolation between the cells in any table, yet a thermistor is highly non linear. Since you have such a big gap between the 24°C and 94°C cal points it will be very noticeable. The reason you see difference between voltage Vs ohms cal is because the voltage divider calculation will inverse the non-linearity affect (I suspect the voltage cal will be closer to reality than the ohms in this case). You typically want no more than 10°C break points for a thermistor cal. Pic at the bottom to show the effect, straight lines are your cal, pink line is more like how the sensor would behave. I would suggest you try the pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration as that looks like it matches your sensor reasonably well.
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    Cam Position Parameter Lag

    I think the problem probably is you due to not using a compatible trigger & VVT mode. Your Inlet LH error counter is continuously counting up and the Inlet LH signal is reporting extra pulses. Try setting trigger mode to M52 VVT and VVT mode to M52, this should work with the single tooth cam and 60-2 crank. Trigger offset and VVT offset may need to be set again with this change. If that doesnt help please post another log and the tune file. I suspect something is also mechanically wrong if this is the case, in my experience the 2 state vanos is usually near instant switching (less than 50ms at a guess), you dont normally need to consider cam position at all, usually just switch VE tables at the same time the vanos is activated.
  12. 1 point
    tarlo

    programmable logic

    I would love in the future if you could step up virtual logic to be programmable perhaps in function block or text with Boolean (and and or if etc) to allow lots of flexability to the end user. the virtuals are great but can be limiting. Thanks
  13. 1 point
    It is not possible to decode them all since they are sent as bit fields. The stream below will give you the common errors for Lambda 1 using the CAN DIG inputs (you can view these on the runtimes screen). Set it up with ID 431, extended format. CAN DIG 1 will indicate "AFR1 Ready" CAN DIG 2 will indicate "AFR 1 Heater open Error" CAN DIG 3 will indicate "AFR 1 VM Error" and so on down the list. The LED's on the device give pretty much the same information so Im not sure how useful it is. AEM Errors ID431.lcs
  14. 1 point
    Simon

    Sorry to ask. What software?

    Its a G4+ so you will ned the latest PC link which is currently 5.6.6 http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.6.3601 Setup.exe
  15. 1 point
    redmist

    programmable logic

    I've currently got all 6 seven segments and the 8x8 Matrix to work with Link "generic dash" can bus output. There is some work to do with my neopixel library conflicting another of my libraries, and a weird issue with my can bus adapter only picking up frame 0 or 1 when you start to introduce a delay (like writing to the 7 Segs). However given a correction of my frame issue I'm not seeing any problems with refresh from the Nano. Weird thing is the Nano will do several hundred main loops prior to picking yet another frame 0 from the buffer. Although there is a deep imprint of my keyboard in my forehead I'm enjoying battling with the cheap ahrse and very flashy intelligent 7 Segs, 8x8 and neopixels... the cheap can bus adapter... not so much.
  16. 1 point
    KarlB

    Higher voltage on Aux 9/10 supply

    Bumping this to provide an update. The car is back together now (after some cylinder head woes). We removed four of the six throttle return springs and re set all the throttle plates. It idles nicely with fully closed throttles at 850RPM with 15 degrees of timing. The e-throttle response is much better. It's still not great, but seems to be acceptable. I did some testing with retarded ignition timing before pulling the springs and I wasn't happy with the resultant exhaust gas temperature. The idle base DC table is set to 3D and uses AP(main) as the secondary axis. This allows tip-in to be smoothed out by feeding in air via the idle motor at low pedal angles.
  17. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  18. 1 point
    dynoiasi

    Boost Control

    Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software. Best regards, Florin
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  20. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  21. 1 point
    I will give some comments. The Link CAN Lambda was designed specifically to work with our ECU, it has bi-directional communication so not only is data received from the device but the ECU also sends data to it. This allows the proper warm-up strategy to be applied during start up, EMAP compensation can be applied correctly for situations where there is back pressure and if a sensor is reporting an error condition the ecu can disable CLL or in the case of multiple sensors, ignore the failed one from "lambda average" calculations. The stuff like temperature, heater voltage, etc are mostly only used for diagnostics. Most of the 3rd party devices will have no receive - they only transmit data so they dont know if the engine is running or how long it has been running for to apply the correct warm-up strategy (potentially shorter sensor life). Many of the 3rd party devices will send some sort of error or status message but in many cases it is not in the format that our ecu needs it to be able to do stuff like disable CLL. In some cases you will be able to log these errors but unlikely act upon them. I have used a few of the X-series AEM's on budget installs and they have worked ok for me to date but I do hear/see some reports of short sensor life with them more often than others. To get the extreme response speed they certainly dont use a Bosch chipset or control the sensor in the way Bosch designed it to be so sensor life is possibly a side effect that. Some claim they are not using a genuine Bosch sensor either. Yes, an ecu controlled relay is a good idea. It still wont give the proper heat up strategy but it is better than nothing. No. Free-air cal is not particularly useful in my opinion, it was something made famous by Innovate as they didnt use the Bosch fitted calibration resistor. Air has about 21% O2, exhaust gas has none when less than 1 Lambda. So it only calibrates on the lean side of the curve and even then it is like trying to calibrate your precision 1volt voltmeter using a 2000V source... Ecotrons ones have a good reputation - I have never used one myself but only ever hear good comments about them. If you are not in a big hurry I know 14point7 are releasing a CAN bus "Spartan 3" soon, I tested a prototype a while ago. I use his analog ones for most of my budget installs and have very good success with them.
  22. 1 point
    cj

    Ecu hold power

    Thats not really the idea behind hold power. Its supposed to be so you can reset idle solenoids and the like back to zero position. Trying to use it to avoid something like this runs a big risk that if you crank it for too long, the hold power timer expires, and the ECU turns off while its still cranking and you probably wouldnt even notice. Better bet would be to re-wire your key output in this case so that the main relay is triggered by IGN1 key pos *and* by start key pos (ie run a wire from the key start position output to the main relay trigger). Are you sure your ignition circuit drops out entirely when key is at start pos? Ive heard of accessory power dropping out, and in some cases there are 2 IGN feeds off the key and 1 will drop out (for heater, aircon, wipers etc), but in most cases where people think they have this behaviour its actually just voltage drop due to the load being drawn by the starter.
  23. 1 point
    I know of some people that have done this but it’s not a good option in my opinion. Having two separate ecu’s controlling things with no communication between them and little understanding of how the oem ecu controls things is bringing a lot of risk to the party. For instance if the oem ecu cuts fuel as a limiter but your port injectors are still squirting you are probably going to melt parts quickly. With port/DI combos there are many other scenarios where the timing difference between the two injection events can cause very lean cycles also. Fair enough if it’s a junk yard engine with not much value and you are prepared to learn by breaking things...
  24. 1 point
    Adamw

    After a 1jz vvti base file

    Map attached. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  25. 1 point
    Stevieturbo

    Boost control. Under no load

    A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ? Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.
  26. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    Yes, the same setting is available in two different places, you only need to adjust one and the other will change at the same time. It depends if you are using open loop or closed loop. If using open loop the base position table tells the idle valve how far open to be, the idle target table has no effect. In open loop mode the idle target table is only used for idle ignition control. In closed loop mode the base position table is the starting position that the idle valve jumps to when idle conditions are first met, then the closed loop control will take over and adjust the valve position further if needed to make the RPM match the idle target. The idea is the base position table can quickly get the idle valve somewhere close to where it needs to be then the closed loop only needs to make small corrections. There are instructions in the help file how to tune idle control. I suggest you start in open loop mode to build a good base position table. Follow this page in help: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control >Open Loop ISC. Are you seeing this drift when the "set base timing" screen is open (so timing is locked)? What ECU do you have?
  27. 1 point
    No, you want to log the parameter "Lambda 1". Just fix your cal table.
  28. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    R32 GTR issues

    Looking at the log file posted for the speed, there seems to be a frequency doubling artifact. This might be caused by a double edge on each transition causing the ECU to randomly see twice the frequency. possible issues could be compromised grounding (old loom with oxidised ground rings maybe?), a low pass RC filter might help. HTH, RIchard.
  29. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    3sgte knock gain

    diagrams are in the help file in the software.
  30. 1 point
    from my experience with the quad cam avcs, full throttle pull, exhaust cam will sit around 25-30deg. when adam says the thing is rich, .65 is way to rich and I bet is causing misfire. These engines work better around .78-.8 lambda.
  31. 1 point
    Adamw

    Bosch MAP Sensor 0281002316

    MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure, so this is pressure in the manifold (after throttle). Your "boost gauge" most likely either cant read vacuum, or is connected before the throttle. Yes, idle will typically be around 35-45, over-run maybe as low as 20kpa. So although the sensor we are talking about here doesnt miss out by much, decent idle and economy is still usually an important consideration for most users.
  32. 1 point
    Yes this would be the best option
  33. 1 point
    AlexSavv

    Brand New G4+ Monsoon For Sale

    Hey everyone, I think I'll go for an RX7 Plug and Play unit instead, therefore my brand new Monsoon is for sale, complete with plug, pins and unlock code from Brands Hatch Performance (not applied yet!) Literally hasn't been touched, and I'll take a loss on it. £800 posted for anyone who knows of a someone who needs one! Thank you Alex
  34. 1 point
    The Lambda trace actually isn't in the correct position as the reading lags so I would say its going lean on a throttle blip, best way to see by how much the Lambda is lagging is to set a switch on a DI and when selected add 10% to the fuel map, hold it at 4k rpm and switch the DI on, by logging the DI and the Lambda you will see how long the lag is, you can then read the log better. I would say if the fuel table is correct then you need to adjust the accell Enrichment. Logging TPS delta along with the TPS trace will help you work out whats going on. Hope this helps.
  35. 1 point
    I solved the problem. The cam sensors started to bleed through +12 to the signal wire when they got warm. I changed the supply to +5V and everything seems to be working fine now =). everywhere I looked the sensors should be +12v, but that was obviously wrong. Don't believe everything on the internet, haha. Big thanks for the support!
  36. 1 point
    Adamw

    4g63 boost control.

    Correct, it should have a stock solenoid in that car, usually you would just connect the new solenoid to the wires for the original valve. Wrong. One side goes to a switched +12V source. The other goes to an aux output. There are no aux outputs available on the expansion connector on that ECU, so you should connect it to aux 1/Pin 105.
  37. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Subaru knock problem

    That would depend on whether it is a false knock detection due to noise threshold or actually knock on cylinder 4 . As mentioned above it could be a fuel issue. Try swapping injectors between cylinders and see if the knock moves with the injector. If it is knock due to ignition then I would retard #4 a degree at a time in the individual cylinder ignition trim table. HTH, Richard.
  38. 1 point
    Yes, I highly suggest you use the Link for this test as I suspect our injector driver circuits are probably different than a MS2 and this can have quite an effect on dead times. See this post here for a bit of an idea how another user tested deadtime and short pulse width adder (Roman is user @Davidv on the Link forum): https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21624-romans-beams-3sge-toyota-carina/&do=findComment&comment=1688039 Im sure he had a similar post on this forum but I cant find it.
  39. 1 point
    cj

    R35 MAF

    Have a read of this post. Seems like it works but probably not preferred
  40. 1 point
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    Can I adjust speedo?

    Yes, provided your speedo is electronic and you connect it to the ecu, then you can adjust it. You need to connect the speedo to aux 1-8, assign the aux to "speedo out". You will then get these settings:
  42. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    CLL fuel correction %

    G4+ has a very similar function called quick tune that is with key F10
  43. 1 point
    Adamw

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Sounds like you have this a bit mixed up? Pin 4 is the SAS and it is connected to Ign 6. It would typically only be used for some rally antilag setups so thats why you dont see it in the base map. Our diagram shows the purge valve is connected to pin 16, but in our plugin ECU we dont control that at all. Our plug-in doesnt have anything connected to these pins, they are not really needed. I believe the Factory ECU grounds the "G pin" at wide open throttle to turn the alternator off. You can connect that to an aux out if you wish. Without it connected it will just charge all the time. Connect Thunder "Ign Sw " pin to Evo pin 99 (ignition switch). Connect Thunder "Main relay +" to Evo pin 57. Connect Thunder "Main relay -" to any ground. ECU +14V can connect to Evo pins 59 & 47. You may also need to add a separate relay for "+14V Aux9/10" power supply if you are fitting E-throttle.
  44. 1 point
    A couple of extra tips for the MTX-L... Connect the innovate yellow wire to any spare Link analog input. The MTX doesnt have a dedicated analog ground so this will often cause a large and variable ground offset if grounded to the wrong location. The Innovate manual suggests grounding to the negative battery post but I would suggest the engine block instead. The "innovate LC1" calibration in the PCLink software is the correct one to choose (MTX is the same).
  45. 1 point
    As you self answered 3 & 4 : 1 - Set your engine protection rpm limit to Ignition Cut. 2 - Have you checked the CAN configuration - ECU Controls - CAN Config
  46. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    CAN dash setup

    Try this: Select the correct CAN Bus and Enable User Defined Mode and Transmit Generic Dash at 1Mbs on CAN ID 1000
  47. 1 point
    beemn

    IVts software

    problem solved, thanks to Ross from tech support...magician/wizzard
  48. 1 point
    pugsparked

    IAT installation Subaru V5-V6

    At standstill with engine running or at low speed the IC is heated by the engine and will have fuel corrections. One option would be the condition of exceeding 30km/h to make corrections. Regards
  49. 1 point
    mikegt4dude

    File,Save, File is in use

    Allright, thank you. From now on I will try saving on a local folder and see if the problem goes away
  50. 1 point
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