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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/14/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  3. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  4. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  5. 2 points
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.
  6. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  7. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  8. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  9. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  10. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  11. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  12. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  13. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  14. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  15. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  16. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  18. 2 points
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  19. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  20. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  21. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  22. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  23. 2 points
    Adamw

    Traction control with DBW

    E-throttle is generally too slow to be the primary torque reduction to control slip. I believe there are some ECU's that use DBW as part of the TC strategy but it gets far more complicated - basically they will still use a traditional fuel/ignition cut as the primary torque reduction to get the slip under control quickly, then only reduce throttle if the cut has to be applied for a sustained period of time. I have played with it a little before (you can put slip on one axis of your E-throttle target table if you want to experiment) but found it to be pretty useless. To reduce torque by say 20% with an ignition cut you only need to cut 2 out of every 10 sparks. To reduce torque by 20% using throttle only on a typical turbo car you need to close the throttle by something more like 50%. What's worse is if you suddenly regain traction you then have to move that throttle all the way open again and wait for the turbo to come back to speed before you have full torque recovery.
  24. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  25. 2 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  26. 1 point
    Ducie54

    Hondata Strain Gauge

    Features say, Analog (voltage) output proportional to gear level force. So you need to use a Analog input not a digital input.
  27. 1 point
    Update: I was able to Use 3 Virtual outputs with ECT based conditions to vary the cluster output. It doesnt make use of all the bars since im out of conditions on the Physical Aux but its enough to know when the engine is warmed up. and overheating. May be able to add another Virtual aux to expand 2 more variables.
  28. 1 point
    Adamw

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    This is definitely correct at least for JDM models, I have helped a few guys locally set up cruise control on these cars and all buttons work. I just checked against the drawings I have at home, I found a couple of mistakes with Aux 6 & C11. I have corrected all the mistakes I can find in the pic below. We call the "+ve" pin the one that if connected to +12V opens the throttle. For whatever reason Subaru (and Toyota) use a different convention to everyone else - they call the "+ve" pin the one that closes the throttle. The ECU still has all inputs and outputs onboard - but they are not always connected to anything. ANV12 i not available on this model. That is just the settings for the Ethanol sensor, you still need to wire it to one of the DI's and assign that DI to ethanol content sensor. Calibration unknown. If you are running on petrol then dont bother. If you are running on flex fuel then the ECU will get fuel temp from the flex sensor.
  29. 1 point
    cj

    Repeating Fault Code 75

    Unfortunately that log doesnt contain values for TP Error Accumulator or TP/Target Error Accumulator. If we cant fix it here, add these 2 into the logged parameters for next time so we have better info next time it faults. For now, we can see here that the accel pedal has no issues and rule that out - both main and sub track nicely together and show no AP errors Comparing TP main & Sub we see the 2 of them track together quite nicely so its unlikely to be a TPS error. These 2 values seem to be within 0.2 - 0.3 at all times which is fine. comparing e-throttle target against TP main & Sub postitions however, we see that every time you get off the throttle, the TPS postition almost "bounces" back up a couple %. Usually this is caused by PID setting issues in the ethrottle control. in your case it looks like they might be a bit too aggressive, and its causing some pretty bad overshoot (and for it to not quite oscillate, but still jump back in the wrong direction once it overshoots). This screenshot shows the worst example I could find of both the "bounce" when you go from full throttle to 0%, and for general poor tracking of target -> actual TPS angle. Note the blue TPS line overshooting by 10% ish repeatedly between 10:04 and 10:08. There is another good example at 13:40 +/- 5 seconds. I'd suggest setting your ethrottle to "always run", then with the engine off, tune your PID settings a bit while logging these same values, until you get TPS to track target reliably thorugh both slow and fast throttle transitions
  30. 1 point
    Connect to the factory knock sensor wiring. Bosch 0 261 231 006 is a common wideband part number.
  31. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  32. 1 point
    TechDave

    start attempt force gdi

    Correct.
  33. 1 point
    Adamw

    start attempt force gdi

    Trigger 1 edge will need to be set to falling for that waveform you show above. You will notice there is a rising edge in the middle of the "missing teeth area" so rising edge will not work. Do us a new log after changing that.
  34. 1 point
    1320MINI

    2003 MINI Cooper S GTS race car

    With a 11% pulley you'll probably pick up 10-15hp easy, You talking about the "461" Catcam? Down low it will make the same as a "469". Throttle is a good idea to restrict the air flow.
  35. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    Lambda 1 vs AEM wideband

    Yes, its there for that exact reason it will also mean that Lambda 1 is Stoic.
  36. 1 point
    1320MINI

    2003 MINI Cooper S GTS race car

    Hi Alan, what power you trying to achieve? to get the torque up but keep the power low you could fit a camshaft with more lift and duration,then run a restrictor, This way you'll get more power and torque down low and stop it making loads up top.
  37. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link Can Wideband pclink reading

    0.9 Lambda is about 13.2AFR if you are running petrol. To change it to AFR go to >options>units>options. You can display AFR provided it is not multi-fuel (flex fuel).
  38. 1 point
    Adamw

    Problems With Impreza WRX 2000 GC8

    Your cam and crank signals are swapped, you need to change the dip switches to the alternative positions as per the note in the manual below:
  39. 1 point
    namre

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    update: my lambda values on the ecu was crap since calibration was wrong. could not find the correct values but we have retuned fuel according to gauge this time. most of the bucking went away and it's better now. so there were wrong afr values in ecu readings. now only in 2nd gear if you force to drive constantly at 2500 rpm there is a little bucking and i guess this is normal?
  40. 1 point
    Adamw

    Fuel level calibration

    You will need to wire an external pull up and an RC filter to damp to signal from the fuel sloshing around. See the bottom of this post for an example: You can then set the analog input up as a GP input and use a cal table to scale it 0-100%
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    Interpolate Extrapolate and Smooth.

    Yep, looks a bit extreme but it will be a safe starting point.
  42. 1 point
    sbn1979

    Audi TT 1.8 20V Trigger errors

    always a pain when customer is adamant they are right
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Tim D

    Boost trace log

    Take a log and capture these parameters (assuming you're running closed loop), it makes analysing and tweaking a piece of cake!
  45. 1 point
    Tim D

    Covert llg file to csv?

    Did you mean this...
  46. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    Thunder would be great. Loads of spare aux outs and inputs, and dual lambda too. You also get built in ECU hold power control. I have a 3uz which I will run with my thunder. Just not sure what car it's going in yet !
  47. 1 point
    Adamw

    Master Fuel question

    I would calculate it like this: If your measured lambda was 0.61(9:1AFR). Lets say your target was typical NA target of 0.87. So 0.61/0.87 = 0.70 (i.e need to remove 30%). New master fuel = 20 x 0.70 = 14ms.
  48. 1 point
    I need this! Please include support for the Black Storm!
  49. 1 point
    JaiKai

    canbus for two lambda modules

    looks like i've managed to solve this myself thankfully. After i sense checked all my connections and double checked the canbus cable short loom that connects to the ecu i discovered that the wiring is all wrong compared to pictures i've seen online. So i picked the cables off and put them in the proper locations and hey presto its working. Just shows you you shouldn't trust ebay and double check the wiring connections when buying cables that are not oem.
  50. 1 point
    cj

    Fury - What happens during idle?

    Your ignition table is in MGP, and doesnt go into negative. This means your ignition timing at anything non-boosted is effective a single row lookup. I notice it runs pretty minimal vacuum anyway, but you should still have this drop down to at least -30kpa as it seems your engine would use this at idle. Your fuel table numbers are very small, and your master fuel number is quite large - this doesnt "break" anything as such but it makes it very hard to get any resolution in your fuel table. eg you can only move from 12.0 to 12.1 and this might be quite a jump in injected fuel quantity. Try changing master fuel trim to 0, master fuel to 5, and then select the entire fuel table and type *4 <enter>. this drop your master fuel value to ~1/4 of what it is now, and multiples the table values by 4. The injected quantity will be the same but its easier to work with the fuel table now. It looks like the reason it stalls is because it runs too lean. healthy idle is probably 0.9 lambda and 1.1 is probably stall. Post start enrichment is keeping you going to start with, and when it runs out, your engine goes lean and stalls. Try bumping up your master fuel table a little bit (maybe from 5 to 6 once you do the step above) until it can keep running once post start enrich goes to 0. Then once you know what "stable" idle looks like, you can reverse engineer the post start enrichment numbers to stop the idle creeping up at the beginning but this temporary high idle is not your biggest problem right now.
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