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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/14/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  3. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  4. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  5. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  6. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  7. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  8. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  9. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  10. 2 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  11. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  12. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  13. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  14. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  15. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  16. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  18. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  19. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  20. 2 points
    Adamw

    Traction control with DBW

    E-throttle is generally too slow to be the primary torque reduction to control slip. I believe there are some ECU's that use DBW as part of the TC strategy but it gets far more complicated - basically they will still use a traditional fuel/ignition cut as the primary torque reduction to get the slip under control quickly, then only reduce throttle if the cut has to be applied for a sustained period of time. I have played with it a little before (you can put slip on one axis of your E-throttle target table if you want to experiment) but found it to be pretty useless. To reduce torque by say 20% with an ignition cut you only need to cut 2 out of every 10 sparks. To reduce torque by 20% using throttle only on a typical turbo car you need to close the throttle by something more like 50%. What's worse is if you suddenly regain traction you then have to move that throttle all the way open again and wait for the turbo to come back to speed before you have full torque recovery.
  21. 1 point
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Also looks like base fuel pressure is only 2.5 bar. You have a fuel pressure sensor input but not using it in the modelled equation. Injector dead time curve has steps in it.
  22. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  23. 1 point
    bsh

    350Z+ G4+ questions

    @Adamw Hi Adamw, can you also provide me info regarding get rid of the lights in cluster after installing the 350Z plugin? Thanks.
  24. 1 point
    Adamw

    Aftermarket 4G63 Trigger Setup

    You are correct, on the Evo9 plug-in the tacho is driven direct from a circuit that gets its signal from the crank trigger. This was done to save an aux output as the evo is particularly hungry for aux outputs. You will be able to make Inj 7 drive the tacho but there are a couple of gotcha's... Inj 7 is connected via an internal circuit to DI7 & Ign 8 so you wont be able to use these for anything else - they will have to be set to off. Inj 7 doesnt have a pull-up resistor fitted like most auxes do so you will need to add your own pull up resistor to +12V. I suggest a 2.2Kohm. Pin 59 is a switched 12V so that is convenient. Something like this:
  25. 1 point
    Connect to the factory knock sensor wiring. Bosch 0 261 231 006 is a common wideband part number.
  26. 1 point
    Yes - that will be fine.
  27. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    Evo 8 dbw wiring diagram

    Aux9 in the software controls Aux 10 - conversely Aux4 controls Aux 9
  28. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  29. 1 point
    Adamw

    start attempt force gdi

    Trigger 1 edge will need to be set to falling for that waveform you show above. You will notice there is a rising edge in the middle of the "missing teeth area" so rising edge will not work. Do us a new log after changing that.
  30. 1 point
    cj

    tps signal disabled when car running

    It looks like you havent run a TPS calibration. Here is the voltage being seen by the TPS input in you "no tps" log. Its changing just fine, assuming you only went to 20% ish throrottle.Your TPS % reads 0 the whole time, but that is because the calibtration is off. It is currently set to 0% = 1.315v, so anything under this voltage shows as 0%. Your actual 0% voltage is around 0.48V so the first 1/3 or so of your TPS movement isnt showing up. Now here is the TPS% vs the AN volt3 input from your "yes tps" log. Notice that the TPS% doesnt move until you hit 1.3V or so, but the voltage itself (and the real TPS angle) has moved quite a lot already. Turn ignition on, then go to ECU Controls menu -> TPS calibrate. This should fix it up. Once you've run this, check that your TPS% angle registers all the way from 0% to 99%+ and that the percentages line up with how much you are actually pressing the throttle.
  31. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    Attached is an ignition table from a BP engine I tuned. It had ITB's and higher compression but it will be safe for you. To use this, right click on your ignition table, >import/export>import from file. Ignition Table 1 (+ °BTDC, -- °ATDC).lte
  32. 1 point
    Adamw

    Seat Ibiza (TT) Plugin

    The updated CAN stream to suit the Ibiza and some other later VAG models is included in the next firmware release. I don’t think it is far away from release but if you need it now you can email tech@linkecu.com
  33. 1 point
    I don't see any problem with the set up. Why is Aux 7 set to high polarity tho? if it works like that it would suggest there is a problem with the wiring. polarity = high means it works inverted to normal, so the aux output is off to command the fuel pump to turn on?
  34. 1 point
    I'm overseas on holiday so have only had a brief look, but the first thing I see is the MAP is reading wrong. As per the manual you need to make sure all inputs are set up, calibrated and reading correctly before starting . It should read near 100kpa with the engine off, yours is reading 25kpa.
  35. 1 point
    Adamw

    CAN to Dash on a plug in

    You will only have two wires soldered into the CANF plug as per the pic above, CAN H & CAN L. It will then not interrupt PC communication.
  36. 1 point
    Stevieturbo

    Traction control on AWD

    I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's. As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable. Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed. But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken. Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.
  37. 1 point
    Adamw

    After a 1jz vvti base file

    Map attached. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  38. 1 point
    MagicMike

    PRI News

    A PCLink update!
  39. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    This just appears to be because you have a lumpy idle and a low resolution trigger wheel. The timing bounces around because the RPM is rapidly changing. As you notice this effect will smooth out at higher RPM. I think that will be a good idea, load source = BAP and use TP as the load axis on the fuel table. Then the unstable MAP has no effect on the amount of fuel injected. MGP can keep fueling more consistant over large altitude changes. This is often not relevant for many users, but more important for hill climbs and aircraft. You can use either on the ignition table, but if you are going to change the fuel table to TP then I would do the same for the ignition table. You Zeitronix shows -ve 85-170, so that is reading MGP, not MAP. Standard atmosheric pressure at sea level is 760mmHg absolute, so your zeitronix reading "-170mmHg" would mean 760-170= 590mmHg or 79KPa absolute (MAP) Yes. Most parameters will get a default value assigned if there is no input set up. This is not so important for stuff like oil pressure but if you think of inputs such as fuel temp or air temp for instance that is used in the fuel calculation the ECU needs a realistic number to use if there is no input assigned.
  40. 1 point
    augusto

    3SGTE MR2 COP G4+ PnP Tacho

    Hello I think this is the simple solution for your tachometer to work. Augusto. http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf
  41. 1 point
    cj

    Fuel level calibration

    This should do roughly what you want. The values wont be used for any calculation but it would be enough that you could output it on a gauge in pclink. Obviously swap in your own values for ohm readings -> percentages. Also note that the raw value off these sensors is quite jumpy as the fuel sloshes around. I dont think there is a way to dampen them in the software but you can do it with some external electronics.
  42. 1 point
    Adamw

    Idle Speed control motors - How to

    No, I dont see any way you will be able to get a DC servo motor to control idle air with our ECU. Most engines I do are ITB and I dont bother with any idle valve. Typically you can get pretty decent idle control just using ignition only. Set it up so normal warm idle uses quite retarded ignition (say about 0), that means the throttle blade needs to be set open quite a way to achieve a normal idle speed. Set up the idle ignition table with ECT on one axis so that when its cold it runs about 20deg more timing than when hot. Thats usually enough to get it to cold idle own its own with no driver input.
  43. 1 point
    A typical situation would be that if the min clamp is to low, the ECU will be reducing the idle by lowering the DC. It will work fine down to say 30% but as you drop below 30% the valve starts to open again getting more open as you reduce the DC which causes the idle to increase and the ECU pulls even more. If the solenoid is full closed at 0% DC then there is no issue with a 0 clamp its only in cases where the valve starts to open at lower DC.
  44. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    I've just started building a custom 1UZ VVTi loom and specced an ECU for a customer replacing the standard setup (in a Triumph Stag), and with an Xtreme we quickly ran out of aux outputs. The build is now going to use a Thunder. To run the standard engine functions as implemented on the LS400, it will take at least 12 Aux outs from my calculations:- VVT Bank 1 VVT Bank 2 Fuel Pump ACIS Tacho Ethrottle Relay Ethrottle + Ethrottle - Ethrottle Clutch (PWM 250Hz) Check Engine Light Oil Pressure Warning Light Fan (Viscous on LS400, but I like to add electric for any conversion) Adding Dual Lambda for both banks into the equation (and 3 axis accelerometer, high speed digital inputs, etc.) it quickly makes sense to go for a Thunder. Richard.
  45. 1 point
    JaiKai

    canbus for two lambda modules

    looks like i've managed to solve this myself thankfully. After i sense checked all my connections and double checked the canbus cable short loom that connects to the ecu i discovered that the wiring is all wrong compared to pictures i've seen online. So i picked the cables off and put them in the proper locations and hey presto its working. Just shows you you shouldn't trust ebay and double check the wiring connections when buying cables that are not oem.
  46. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    There are no shared pins on the Monsoon so you can use all 6 Aux outputs and 4 DI's at the same time. Also if you run wasted spark ignition you can assign any spare ignition drives to work as aux outputs if you run short. Be aware the main thing missing from the Monsoon compared to the LEM G3 is the monsoon cant do a stepper motor idle valve, it can do solenoid type only.
  47. 1 point
    I suspect that the calibration may need a bit more post start or warmup enrichment fueling.
  48. 1 point
    JMP

    Toyota 86 CAN

    AGT Engineering has all the data for them, he made his own boxes of tricks for engine conversions: https://www.facebook.com/AGTEngineering/
  49. 1 point
    Adamw

    nissan vq35de

    Our 350Z base map has injector deadtimes and ignition dwell times for the stock injectors and coils. I have notes that the injector flowrate on our car was 284cc @ 345Kpa, which was the base fuel pressure. The fuel system type is returnless.
  50. 1 point
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
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