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  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  3. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  4. 2 points
    Adamw

    ECU Unlock fails

    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
  5. 2 points
    On my setup I use a 3d table to PWM an engine water pump. After a lot of testing I found using the temp output from the radiator and ECT the best way to control the pump. Takes into account out side temp and vechile speed. Would recommend you try that way to control the thermostat. Ive also connected a 2nd Digital output to the same soild state relay as an override. So if I'm at a set TPS or boost range the pump goes to 100%. After a bit of testing during different conditions I can keep the ECT within 2deg in all situations.
  6. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  7. 2 points
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.
  8. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  9. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  10. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  11. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  12. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  13. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  14. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  15. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  16. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  18. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  19. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  20. 2 points
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  21. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  22. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  23. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  24. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  25. 2 points
    Adamw

    Traction control with DBW

    E-throttle is generally too slow to be the primary torque reduction to control slip. I believe there are some ECU's that use DBW as part of the TC strategy but it gets far more complicated - basically they will still use a traditional fuel/ignition cut as the primary torque reduction to get the slip under control quickly, then only reduce throttle if the cut has to be applied for a sustained period of time. I have played with it a little before (you can put slip on one axis of your E-throttle target table if you want to experiment) but found it to be pretty useless. To reduce torque by say 20% with an ignition cut you only need to cut 2 out of every 10 sparks. To reduce torque by 20% using throttle only on a typical turbo car you need to close the throttle by something more like 50%. What's worse is if you suddenly regain traction you then have to move that throttle all the way open again and wait for the turbo to come back to speed before you have full torque recovery.
  26. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  27. 2 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  28. 1 point
    Adamw

    Low voltage at ECU

    What is AN Volt 4 function set to? I think from memory it is the narrowband oxy sensor so you will need to change the fault settings to low = 0.0V and high = 5.0V. Your resistance to ground doesnt sound right - how are you measuring this - between which pins/points?
  29. 1 point
    tokugawa

    Idle speed Control Gain Tables 

    Adam Dear LINK staff PCLink G4 V5.6.7.3630 English / Japanese Thank you for taking action with the new firmware. I updated to the latest firmware and confirmed that the engine works well. I am sincerely grateful.
  30. 1 point
    Adamw

    SOI question

    Yeah sorry, I done that spreadsheet about 10 years ago and have obviously made a mistake in one of the formulas for end of injection somewhere. I dont really have time or interest in fixing it right now. You will have to get your calculator out...
  31. 1 point
    KarlB

    Higher voltage on Aux 9/10 supply

    Bumping this to provide an update. The car is back together now (after some cylinder head woes). We removed four of the six throttle return springs and re set all the throttle plates. It idles nicely with fully closed throttles at 850RPM with 15 degrees of timing. The e-throttle response is much better. It's still not great, but seems to be acceptable. I did some testing with retarded ignition timing before pulling the springs and I wasn't happy with the resultant exhaust gas temperature. The idle base DC table is set to 3D and uses AP(main) as the secondary axis. This allows tip-in to be smoothed out by feeding in air via the idle motor at low pedal angles.
  32. 1 point
    Adamw

    trigger 2 sync problem

    I notice in your screenshot above your camshaft position doesnt go below 15deg. I think this is due to your tooth offset table and maybe the trigger 2 offset are not correct. The first cell of the tooth offset table should always be zero. Subtract 14 deg from all the numbers in your tooth offset table and add 14 deg to your trigger 2 VVT offset.
  33. 1 point
    Davidv

    programmable logic

    Yeah the transciever is miniscule though, doesnt increase footprint: https://www.tindie.com/products/Fusion/dual-can-bus-adapter-for-teensy-35-36/ The refresh rate is good especially when optimized to minimize pixel writes. But if youre spamming it with lots of fast moving stuff or your code has a lot of unnecessary writes it can chug a bit. Moving over to realdash on a tablet is a whole bunch less work to be fair. But this is a learning exercise for me as much as anything else. The start up time, for me, is something that needs to be super snappy. Thats where a microcontroller is so good. I want to migrate my project to a twin core stm32 and a custom board at some point. So i wont need nextion it can control an lcd panel directly. But this is a huge amount of work and ive got lots to learn in the meantime.
  34. 1 point
    Davidv

    programmable logic

    Ages ago I was using cruise control to do some road tuning for best fuel economy. I'd drive a set piece of road at a set speed. Then had digital inputs on the dash that added different combinations of ignition timing. So I'd go do a run at XYZ speed, which has lots of ups and downs in it to vary the load. Record a log file. Then come do that same thing again, with different amounts of ignition advance added by the switches. This showed clear as day in the CC per min fuel usage logs, and TPS, which was best. So I took this a step further and made an arduino canbus unit that would wait for certain conditions to be met (cruise control on,steady driving no tps movement) When cruise control is turned on, a virtual aux is triggered by the Teensy which sends a digital canbus input to turn on a 4D ignition table that has an analog canbus input as the load axis. Then the Teensy has a full separate ignition table in it, and outputs the can value that represents ignition advance for the table. It would collect 100 samples of fuel economy. Advance the ignition 3 degrees. wait for conditions to stabilize again. Then collect another 100 samples. Then it would compare the results of the test. If the results were better above a certain margin, it deinterpolates the current load/rpm ignition timing addition back over the 4 cells that its interpolating from. Then it checks that if there is any lower load area or lower rpm that has less ignition timing than this, it will update those values too. If the economy got worse, it would creep the ignition timing slightly back from where it started from, and do it again. Basically it's auto road tuning for MBT. (But only works in a fairly narrow rpm and load range, because you dont have cruise control turned on at 8000rpm WOT) So it iteratively builds up an ignition timing map on its own and keeps fine tuning it. Starting with 10 degrees timing everywhere, it builds up a relatively sane ignition timing map in about an hour or two which is really cool. But whats nice is that when the car comes to a stop I can store the values to Eeprom so they're not lost when car shuts off. So I'm also planning to shuffle the knock sensing logic over to this board too, so I can store long term knock trims instead of losing everything when car turns off. However, this then also scope creeped into a context sensitive plug and play digidash / 3d printed housing. With a whole bunch of other crap going on like auto dimming, changing screens based on what you're doing, xy plots, histograms, etc etc. Also takes all of the standard dash inputs like lights, indicators, etc etc. Work in progress! (Its for an 80s car hence LCD type look) Working through some bits at the moment like estimated range off remaining fuel, and things like that. Has been a good learning experience and I'm pretty happy with the results so far. Once the auto dimming became functional It's been really nice to drive with. Trust me though, you dont want to see the code hahaaha.
  35. 1 point
    Ok, heres a bit of info on the power circuit to help you diagnose: The main power grounds are pins 107,108,116,10,20. Our ECU doesnt need all of them but check at least a couple of those have good continuity to ground. Pin 45 is a 12V "ignition on" signal from the ignition switch - the ecu doesnt use this for power but when pin 45 is live (12V), a mosfet inside the adaptalink (think of it like a relay), connects pin 16 to ground. Pin 16 is the trigger to the main ECCS relay coil. when pin 16 is grounded by the ecu, the ECCS relay should engage and then supply 12V to pin 49 & 59. Pin 49 & 59 is the main power supply to the ecu and the ecu will then power up.
  36. 1 point
    You can't is the short answer. Im not actually sure that MAF should even be an option currently in the Di channels.
  37. 1 point
    Adamw

    S13 plugin g4+ and e-throttle

    The actual hardware is onboard but the S13 ECU doesnot have the Aux 9 & 10 output pin available to use. If you returned the ECU to us we could add a couple of wire links to make those outputs accessible for a small fee.
  38. 1 point
    Simon

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    If you leave the control solenoid unplugged you will have the cams sitting at a safe position. (or just have the Aux turned off)
  39. 1 point
    Adamw

    Aftermarket 4G63 Trigger Setup

    You are correct, on the Evo9 plug-in the tacho is driven direct from a circuit that gets its signal from the crank trigger. This was done to save an aux output as the evo is particularly hungry for aux outputs. You will be able to make Inj 7 drive the tacho but there are a couple of gotcha's... Inj 7 is connected via an internal circuit to DI7 & Ign 8 so you wont be able to use these for anything else - they will have to be set to off. Inj 7 doesnt have a pull-up resistor fitted like most auxes do so you will need to add your own pull up resistor to +12V. I suggest a 2.2Kohm. Pin 59 is a switched 12V so that is convenient. Something like this:
  40. 1 point
    Steve

    Obd2 Bluetooth Reader and Torque App?

    Yes. Thats the new one..
  41. 1 point
    cj

    Need a quick hand with launch control

    From what youve said about that log being approx 70mph, try 224 as your calibration number for DI1. should put you in the ballpark. Then grab a gps/phone and a straight road or dyno and a friend, hold the speed steady on the GPS, then have your friend bump the number up/down until it matches.
  42. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  43. 1 point
    Hi. Any developments to use on Atom?
  44. 1 point
    Ken Dunkley

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    Hi- An old saying is - An engine wants what it wants - . Perhaps make it richer in the areas where you feel this noticeable bucking. To me this is a sign of running lean . With your cams you can get intake reversion and all sorts of weird pressure waves happening that can effect smooth running . Especially at that point of light throttle and low/medium engine speed . Dont be stuck on A/F targets at this particular problem area - Try it at 0.9 and see how it runs .
  45. 1 point
    TechDave

    PRI News

    No no no, we're not releasing two new plugins. Fake news.
  46. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    I actually think *3338 shouldnt be on the website still. *3338b is the correct one. From memory *3338 had problems connecting to old firmware. For best resolution it is better to have a smaller master and bigger values in the fuel table. The main thing you want to avoid is really small numbers in the fuel table - say if your biggest number is 30% you are going to struggle to tune idle. The general advice is pick a master fuel that gives you numbers around 50% in the middle of your fuel table. Correct, they are basically the same, just using the trim you can get a finer adjustment.
  47. 1 point
    banaro

    wastegate table axis

    Can i swap the boost target and rpm x and y axis around to take advantage of the additional length of the x axis, instructions say rpm must be x?, but i am not so sure Clarification, i am talking about the wastegate %DC active table
  48. 1 point
    Adamw

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    done.
  49. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link G3 + Toucan

    Will PM you some info.
  50. 1 point
    Scott

    Usb to CAN (tuning cable) pinout

    I've just used a multi-meter on my tuning cable to work out the pins. Pin 5 is VCC Pin 4 is D- Pin 3 is D+ Pin 6 is GND.
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