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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points


    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  3. 3 points

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  4. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  5. 2 points
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.
  6. 2 points

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  7. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  8. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  9. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  10. 2 points

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  11. 2 points

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  12. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  13. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  14. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  15. 2 points

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  16. 2 points

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  17. 2 points

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  18. 2 points
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  19. 2 points

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  20. 2 points

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  21. 2 points

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  22. 2 points

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  23. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  24. 2 points

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  25. 1 point

    SOI question

    Yeah sorry, I done that spreadsheet about 10 years ago and have obviously made a mistake in one of the formulas for end of injection somewhere. I dont really have time or interest in fixing it right now. You will have to get your calculator out...
  26. 1 point

    trigger 2 sync problem

    The ECCS sync is only applicable for Nissan 360 opto trigger mode. It will show no for all other trigger setups.
  27. 1 point
    Ok, heres a bit of info on the power circuit to help you diagnose: The main power grounds are pins 107,108,116,10,20. Our ECU doesnt need all of them but check at least a couple of those have good continuity to ground. Pin 45 is a 12V "ignition on" signal from the ignition switch - the ecu doesnt use this for power but when pin 45 is live (12V), a mosfet inside the adaptalink (think of it like a relay), connects pin 16 to ground. Pin 16 is the trigger to the main ECCS relay coil. when pin 16 is grounded by the ecu, the ECCS relay should engage and then supply 12V to pin 49 & 59. Pin 49 & 59 is the main power supply to the ecu and the ecu will then power up.
  28. 1 point
    The Crydom DC-series SSR's work fine, I've been running my 450's off one all last year with no problems. But yes you do need a flyback diode at the pumps. ( 2x450's off one 60A ) I've a 3rd in tank pump if need be and a 100A relay sitting if and when I do need to use it And in no way whatsoever is the little Hella relay suitable for such a purpose, even from the standpoint of coping with the current of such a pump, nevermind trying to pwm it too. Haltech offer this drawing and is how I use mine with Syvecs. Although a high frequency would probably be better with a proper controller, it does seem SSR's dont really enjoy being pushed in this way. I found mine happy around 200Hz. https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SSR_Power_SW_Web.pdf I do use one of the Hella SSR relays for my water injection though.
  29. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Also looks like base fuel pressure is only 2.5 bar. You have a fuel pressure sensor input but not using it in the modelled equation. Injector dead time curve has steps in it.
  30. 1 point
    Ken Dunkley

    V8 Distributor modification

    Hi - I did this to the MSD distributor on my Dodge V8 . I timed the dizzy as you would ordinarily- found the no1 tooth and ground off the remaining 7 . The MSD dizzy had the facility to lock it - so no centrifugal advance comes into play . Also it is a VR type pickup . When i timed the gap on the 60-2 wheel i used - it was approx 90 degrees away from when TDC occurred at the dizzy . I had no issues with phasing of the gaps so cant say either way about that .
  31. 1 point
    Hi Dave, It takes a bit of time for a update to be approved through the Microsoft store system, if you email the team at Realdash they may be able to give you an idea of when the next version is going to be publicly available which will include the fix for the lag. Cheers, Mark
  32. 1 point

    Evo 8 dbw wiring diagram

    Aux9 in the software controls Aux 10 - conversely Aux4 controls Aux 9
  33. 1 point

    Evo 8 dbw wiring diagram

    We have a pinout for the EVO 10 throttle in the PC link help file Navigation: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Mitsubishi EVO X We don't have anything on the pedal.
  34. 1 point
    Yep thats the one
  35. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  36. 1 point
    Another thing to consider if your using the Can (as i found out the hard way ) is the data rate for communication , its not often listed in the specs but critical if your using more than 1 devise AEM X series is 500kb Link CAN Lambda is 1000 I have a mounted but unused AEM if you need one
  37. 1 point


    why are you looking to swap? im in the opposite boat, looking to go from DBC to DBW! trade me your stuff! haha
  38. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

    You need to go to the set base timing screen and adjust the trigger offset until the timing light shows the same timing as the ecu setting "lock timing to". Make sure you hit the enter key when changing the offset. Yes, assuming the crankshaft is "even fire" and the firing order is set correctly in the software the TDC events will be automatically set.
  39. 1 point

    Ecu hold power

    Thats not really the idea behind hold power. Its supposed to be so you can reset idle solenoids and the like back to zero position. Trying to use it to avoid something like this runs a big risk that if you crank it for too long, the hold power timer expires, and the ECU turns off while its still cranking and you probably wouldnt even notice. Better bet would be to re-wire your key output in this case so that the main relay is triggered by IGN1 key pos *and* by start key pos (ie run a wire from the key start position output to the main relay trigger). Are you sure your ignition circuit drops out entirely when key is at start pos? Ive heard of accessory power dropping out, and in some cases there are 2 IGN feeds off the key and 1 will drop out (for heater, aircon, wipers etc), but in most cases where people think they have this behaviour its actually just voltage drop due to the load being drawn by the starter.
  40. 1 point
    I know of some people that have done this but it’s not a good option in my opinion. Having two separate ecu’s controlling things with no communication between them and little understanding of how the oem ecu controls things is bringing a lot of risk to the party. For instance if the oem ecu cuts fuel as a limiter but your port injectors are still squirting you are probably going to melt parts quickly. With port/DI combos there are many other scenarios where the timing difference between the two injection events can cause very lean cycles also. Fair enough if it’s a junk yard engine with not much value and you are prepared to learn by breaking things...
  41. 1 point

    How to setup mixture map

    Your mixture map is whatever your fuel table is. If you have two fuel tables, you need to go into the options and switch to that instead.
  42. 1 point
    you can def activate more than 1 aux in test mode. but the way you have it set up now, your aux 1 is sending out a ground when on, aux 7 is sending out 12v.
  43. 1 point
    I don't see any problem with the set up. Why is Aux 7 set to high polarity tho? if it works like that it would suggest there is a problem with the wiring. polarity = high means it works inverted to normal, so the aux output is off to command the fuel pump to turn on?
  44. 1 point

    PCLink Software Issues

    It's a graphics driver issue, fixed it for 5.6.6
  45. 1 point

    WRXLINK V7-9 Connectors

    Yes that will be fine.
  46. 1 point

    Monsoon, SR20DET, Won't Start

    Yes, it will ignore the triggers until it is unlocked.
  47. 1 point

    Master Fuel question

    You can do either, often easier to change it while it is running - then you can just bump it up or down until it runs best.
  48. 1 point

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    Yes, our naming convention make this a little more confusing than it was in the G4 the first time you do it. Below is how you would set up a virtual aux that activates when DI1 is on and DI2 is off. The important bit that you probably missed is the bits I have highlighted in pink.
  49. 1 point
    Thanks buddy I’ll give it a try and yea I’m wanting to get the link wideband as soon as I can afford to
  50. 1 point
    race jase

    VE Tuning a rotary

    all the rotary maps i have seen have been tuned in injection time, i just checked all my old haltech files and 90% of engines are tuned in VE except RX 7/8, why im not sure hopfully simon or scott will chime in here.
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