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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points


    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  3. 3 points

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  4. 2 points

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  5. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  6. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  7. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  8. 2 points

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  9. 2 points

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  10. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  11. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  12. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  13. 2 points

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  14. 2 points

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  15. 2 points

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  16. 2 points
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  17. 2 points

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  18. 2 points

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  19. 2 points

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  20. 2 points

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  21. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  22. 1 point

    Switched closed loop, G4 extreme.

    In firmware 5.6.6 we added 3D CLL trim tables. You get one table for adding fuel and a seperate table for removing fuel. So, you could turn these on, then put your switch status on one axis. In the example below, I have my CLL switch on DI4. I have put DI4 on the Y axis of the trim table (0 means switch is off, 1 means switch is on). So for instance when my switch is on and at 4000RPM the CLL is allowed to add up to 20% fuel. When the switch is off it is not allowed to add any. Obviously the other axis doesnt necessarily need to be RPM, TP or MAP might be more suitable but it is up to you.
  23. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  24. 1 point

    base map for Toyota Starlet turbo

    These are not from a running engine, they are just some I made to get someone else running. I believe they can have either a 4 tooth or 24 tooth wheel in the distributor so both options below. These are from an Xtreme but will load into an Atom ok. 4efe 24 tooth dizzy.pclr 4efe 4 tooth dizzy.pclr
  25. 1 point

    base map for Toyota Starlet turbo

    What engine and what ecu?
  26. 1 point

    350Z+ G4+ questions

    @Adamw Hi Adamw, can you also provide me info regarding get rid of the lights in cluster after installing the 350Z plugin? Thanks.
  27. 1 point
    Either could be. You adjust the gains so that you see equal knock levels reported on all cylinders. Typically the cylinders that are further away from the sensor need higher gain so I would say if the knock sensor is somewhere near the centre of the engine on these then the bottom set of gains look more like what I would expect. The best frequency for knock detection can be biased by many modifications so what works well for someone else may not be right for you. For instance hanging a different turbo/manifold off the side of an engine will usually change its knock signature.
  28. 1 point

    Force GDI no output on DI pump driver

    Attach your basemap or send it to tech@linkecu.com
  29. 1 point

    Cold Start

    Would it be a 2 wire Ford idle valve? If you need some throttle before it can start, it might mean that you are injecting too much fuel. Try to use less and see how it goes. When the engine does not start, did it kick back at all?
  30. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  31. 1 point
    Many devices have configurable bit rate. The Link CAN Lambda can do 100, 125, 250, 500k & 1M so it should work with nearly any other device. The 14point7 one I believe will be configurable bit rate. The AEM X-series is not configurable as it was originally only designed to work on their "AEMNet". Emtron (HV Electronics) is configurable, Motec is configurable, Ecotrons is not. I believe that is possibly bad wording to not give away his source. I believe they come from an OEM application, they have all the correct markings on them and none of the signs of the typical clones. They have a longer cable on them than the common aftermarket LSU4.9. I have installed probably 10 of his Spartan 1 & 2's over the last few years and have not had one fail or play up. The Lambdatronic LT4 is their highend one, the retail is around $4000. They have a more consumer level device, the LT2, for about $1000. https://www.streamlineautomotive.com.au/lamdatronic-lt4-lambda-to-can-module Really, it seems like you may be over thinking things. Any of them mentioned in this post will do a fine job. The Link one will give you a few more fail-safes in terms of CLL control if you intend to run CLL full time and possibly longer sensor life due to the more correct heating strategy. The 14point7 one duplicates our CAN Lambda stream so that will have the same fail-safe functionality. The AEM one is faster than all others I have used but will not disable CLL when there is a sensor error and there may be a possibility of shorter sensor life depending on who you believe. I know a couple of professional tuners here and in Australia that use the Ecotrons ALM as their main tuning tool and rave about how good they are and I have never heard a bad thing about them so they seem good. I know Innovate have a CAN bus one coming out soon (LC3) but I would avoid that at all costs based on experience with their previous products.
  32. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

  33. 1 point

    2003 MINI Cooper S GTS race car

    With a 11% pulley you'll probably pick up 10-15hp easy, You talking about the "461" Catcam? Down low it will make the same as a "469". Throttle is a good idea to restrict the air flow.
  34. 1 point

    Link Can Wideband pclink reading

    0.9 Lambda is about 13.2AFR if you are running petrol. To change it to AFR go to >options>units>options. You can display AFR provided it is not multi-fuel (flex fuel).
  35. 1 point

    Tuning Considerations

    Attached is an ignition table from a BP engine I tuned. It had ITB's and higher compression but it will be safe for you. To use this, right click on your ignition table, >import/export>import from file. Ignition Table 1 (+ °BTDC, -- °ATDC).lte
  36. 1 point

    4age 20v + Atom

    For the coils themselves? here's the first good result from google, which lines up exactly with what Adam said. Sounds like you want the sequential option
  37. 1 point
    Rob W

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    Well said Ken. I mentioned in another forum that the wideband only measures "burnt fuel" and the cams skew the readings. Mine Ej engine runs best at cruise .9-.95 with cams rather than the more traditional 1.0+
  38. 1 point

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    update: my lambda values on the ecu was crap since calibration was wrong. could not find the correct values but we have retuned fuel according to gauge this time. most of the bucking went away and it's better now. so there were wrong afr values in ecu readings. now only in 2nd gear if you force to drive constantly at 2500 rpm there is a little bucking and i guess this is normal?
  39. 1 point
    This is how i would wire it. Start with basic triggering before PWM pump so you know all 4 work. Sorry about the crap paint skills
  40. 1 point

    PCLink Software Issues

    It's a graphics driver issue, fixed it for 5.6.6
  41. 1 point

    After a 1jz vvti base file

    Map attached. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  42. 1 point

    Tuning Considerations

    Same as your fuel table, so TP would be my suggestion.
  43. 1 point

    High low boost setup

    It is still not clear what you are asking but a common set up would be as below. 2 wastegate tables, switched between via your switch. When the switch is off it will use table 1, watsegate will be sent 0%DC, when the switch is on table 2 will become active and wastegate will get 50%DC. These numbers are just made up to give you an example.
  44. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    12v PWM Output

    Aux 5 to 8 can high side drive to turn the pump on or off, although if you want to use a variable speed, and are using the Aux out as a GP PWM, 0% duty cycle will be 12 Volts and so turn your pump on and 100% duty cycle will output 0V and turn the pump off, just set your PWM table up with the temperature versus duty cycle axis upside down. HTH, Richard.
  45. 1 point

    Ignition timing question

    you just need to tune your engine, any respetable tuner should do a good job on a NA build like yours. I have tune some BMW engines and if you ask me they normally run from 25-28 of advance at wot with everything tune (good fuel map). The base map is always safe so is normal that a final tune has more timing and normally less fuel aswell. If you are gonna tune the engine I would start with the base map not the one from the rally car. Tune the fuel map and then go to the dyno and tune the timing.
  46. 1 point
    iecku.tavea racing

    3sgte knock gain

    Attached a typical 3SGTE Gen3 Knock Setup with the Bosch Sensor....
  47. 1 point

    Logging setup for ECU logging

    Yes, that was one of the first Efi engines I done about 20 years ago when I was a teenager. Motec M48. Couldn’t get many SR20 parts in those days so had to make throttle bodies, camshafts, dry sump system etc from scratch. Datsun 510 rally car.
  48. 1 point

    FIC 1650cc Subaru Injectors

    I switched to these injectors because they're stainless and to handle a bigger turbo with E85. In case anyone else is looking to run them I got injector data (attached) from FIC. I combined this data with the custom flow data i got with the injectors and i've been very happy with how they've worked. Link ECU 1650cc.xlsx
  49. 1 point

    CLL fuel correction %

    HI Adam is there a way to get mixture map to "add back" the correction that CLL has applied and is registered in the log and then apply to the fuel table? am leaving CLL on as cheap insurance but want to ensure I am as close as possible with the map. thanks Marc
  50. 1 point
    I really really give you a good tip, it's about the most risky thing you can do on a SR20det! DON't use any ignition cut or similary thing which pops and bangs. You are going to pop out rocker arms which can lead to a huge engine damage!
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