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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points


    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  3. 3 points

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  4. 2 points

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  5. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  6. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  7. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  8. 2 points

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  9. 2 points

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  10. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  11. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  12. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  13. 2 points

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  14. 2 points

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  15. 2 points

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  16. 2 points
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  17. 2 points

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  18. 2 points

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  19. 2 points

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  20. 2 points

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  21. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  22. 1 point
    I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
  23. 1 point

    Stalling Issue

    I dont think the log shows it stalling so we may not be seeing the real cause, but a couple of things I notice: ISC RPM lockout is set quite high @1500RPM, something like 400RPM would be more normal. This lockout is added on to your target idle RPM, so if your target idle is 1000RPM and your lockout is 1500RPM, then the ecu will try to take over idle control at 2500RPM, closing the idle valve trying to bring the RPM down to target. Also, the minimum clamp needs to be set to 15% on these valves. Your Aux 2 frequency is set to 100Hz (I notice our E36 base map is also), that seems lower than expected to me. The last car I tuned with the bosch 3 wire valve I used 200Hz and had good control range. There are some odd spikes of low ignition dwell recorded in the log. This may indicate a trigger issue. Can you do a triggerscope at idle.
  24. 1 point
    The Crydom DC-series SSR's work fine, I've been running my 450's off one all last year with no problems. But yes you do need a flyback diode at the pumps. ( 2x450's off one 60A ) I've a 3rd in tank pump if need be and a 100A relay sitting if and when I do need to use it And in no way whatsoever is the little Hella relay suitable for such a purpose, even from the standpoint of coping with the current of such a pump, nevermind trying to pwm it too. Haltech offer this drawing and is how I use mine with Syvecs. Although a high frequency would probably be better with a proper controller, it does seem SSR's dont really enjoy being pushed in this way. I found mine happy around 200Hz. https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SSR_Power_SW_Web.pdf I do use one of the Hella SSR relays for my water injection though.
  25. 1 point

    Repeating Fault Code 75

    Unfortunately that log doesnt contain values for TP Error Accumulator or TP/Target Error Accumulator. If we cant fix it here, add these 2 into the logged parameters for next time so we have better info next time it faults. For now, we can see here that the accel pedal has no issues and rule that out - both main and sub track nicely together and show no AP errors Comparing TP main & Sub we see the 2 of them track together quite nicely so its unlikely to be a TPS error. These 2 values seem to be within 0.2 - 0.3 at all times which is fine. comparing e-throttle target against TP main & Sub postitions however, we see that every time you get off the throttle, the TPS postition almost "bounces" back up a couple %. Usually this is caused by PID setting issues in the ethrottle control. in your case it looks like they might be a bit too aggressive, and its causing some pretty bad overshoot (and for it to not quite oscillate, but still jump back in the wrong direction once it overshoots). This screenshot shows the worst example I could find of both the "bounce" when you go from full throttle to 0%, and for general poor tracking of target -> actual TPS angle. Note the blue TPS line overshooting by 10% ish repeatedly between 10:04 and 10:08. There is another good example at 13:40 +/- 5 seconds. I'd suggest setting your ethrottle to "always run", then with the engine off, tune your PID settings a bit while logging these same values, until you get TPS to track target reliably thorugh both slow and fast throttle transitions
  26. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  27. 1 point

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I think you need to consider using a different tuner. There should be plenty around in Victoria?
  28. 1 point

    Tacho signal to high voltage AE86 tacho

    yes, I've done it many times. Follow the attached guide and it will work perfectly ae86 gze tacho translated final.pdf
  29. 1 point

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  30. 1 point

    Thunder lambda sensors

    Im not convinced if it is actually caused by electrical noise or if it is actually the throttle blade moving due to vibration or poor adjustment or lumpy vacuum etc. The "noise" seems to mostly disappear when you open the throttle. Has the cable got plenty of free play and the throttle blade is sitting on a mechanical stop etc? What is the throttle body on this thing? Note you need to calibate your TPS as it is showing 40% at idle.
  31. 1 point
    iecku.tavea racing

    Electronic Wastegate Actuator

    @Adamw I try to get some data for you! Perhaps the video already tells you enough. I talked to my VW/Audi guys...it is no problem to use these actuators on RS3 with upgraded turbo to ~2,5bar boost.(Tested!)
  32. 1 point

    VL Link Injector Upgrade

    You are over thinking it - Just bump the master up or down until it runs the best. Our base map appears to be set up for quite large injectors already - probably bigger than 1000cc by the looks. I would expect a 600cc injector will want a master fuel more like 10-14ms.
  33. 1 point

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    they're listed in the help file with the new version
  34. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  35. 1 point

    AIM MXS Strada Alarm setup

    Yep that will do what you want. The LED will flash the code and the fault code number will be displayed on the dash.
  36. 1 point
    I'm overseas on holiday so have only had a brief look, but the first thing I see is the MAP is reading wrong. As per the manual you need to make sure all inputs are set up, calibrated and reading correctly before starting . It should read near 100kpa with the engine off, yours is reading 25kpa.
  37. 1 point

    Wiring Questions for Gracey

    Nitrous activation would likely go to one of the DI inputs, pressure switch could go to a spare DI or Volt input, all depends on what you have spare in your ECU configuration If you're connecting the innovate analogue output to the ECU, you would use one of the spare Volt inputs
  38. 1 point

    Traction control on AWD

    I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's. As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable. Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed. But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken. Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.
  39. 1 point
    I fabbed a simple bracket and bolted it to my ac pump bracket. Drilled and tapped. I have also seen it bolted to the other side of the oilpump on a simple bracket. See if you can find pictures by member lostsoul here or at the aus300zx forum.
  40. 1 point

    3SGTE MR2 COP G4+ PnP Tacho

    Hello I think this is the simple solution for your tachometer to work. Augusto. http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf
  41. 1 point

    Interpolate Extrapolate and Smooth.

    Yep, looks a bit extreme but it will be a safe starting point.
  42. 1 point

    KnockBlock g4

    Any wideband Bosch type sensor will do. A common part number is 0 261 231 006
  43. 1 point

    Audi TT 1.8 20V Trigger errors

    Good to see you found the issue.
  44. 1 point

    AEM wideband wiring

    That is the part number for the gauge cup, it doesnt tell me much about the device you have. The common AEM wideband controllers are 30-4110, 30-4100, 30-5130, 30-0300. Look these up online and tell me which one yours looks like.
  45. 1 point

    Boost control. Under no load

    A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ? Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Boost kpa psi or bar

    yes, in pclink, go to option, unit, metric or imperial. The options menu lets you set the units for each type. MGP is Gauge Pressure (relative), so referenced to Barometric Absolute Pressure, MAP is Absolute pressure. Both are selectable as a load axis. HTH, Richard.
  48. 1 point

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    Correct if either condition is not met it will switch the output off
  49. 1 point

    Gear Detection

    No from a functionality perspective, just it might be distracting to the driver to see a flash of zero and the logs wont look as nice. Yep you could do that too but I havent needed to on the cars I have played with. You are not going to hurt it with a few test shifts so try it and see. If it is not cutting for long enough it either wont engage or you will get a big clunk.
  50. 1 point

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    The best resource is the help file in PCLink as its searchable and has table of contents etc. We no longer do PDF versions as they were too big and difficult to use, the last PDF version I have is 3 years old so doesnt have the Monsoon in it.
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