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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  3. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  4. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  5. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  6. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  7. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  8. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  9. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  10. 2 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  11. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  12. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  13. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  14. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  15. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  16. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  18. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  19. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  20. 1 point
    cj

    Repeating Fault Code 75

    Unfortunately that log doesnt contain values for TP Error Accumulator or TP/Target Error Accumulator. If we cant fix it here, add these 2 into the logged parameters for next time so we have better info next time it faults. For now, we can see here that the accel pedal has no issues and rule that out - both main and sub track nicely together and show no AP errors Comparing TP main & Sub we see the 2 of them track together quite nicely so its unlikely to be a TPS error. These 2 values seem to be within 0.2 - 0.3 at all times which is fine. comparing e-throttle target against TP main & Sub postitions however, we see that every time you get off the throttle, the TPS postition almost "bounces" back up a couple %. Usually this is caused by PID setting issues in the ethrottle control. in your case it looks like they might be a bit too aggressive, and its causing some pretty bad overshoot (and for it to not quite oscillate, but still jump back in the wrong direction once it overshoots). This screenshot shows the worst example I could find of both the "bounce" when you go from full throttle to 0%, and for general poor tracking of target -> actual TPS angle. Note the blue TPS line overshooting by 10% ish repeatedly between 10:04 and 10:08. There is another good example at 13:40 +/- 5 seconds. I'd suggest setting your ethrottle to "always run", then with the engine off, tune your PID settings a bit while logging these same values, until you get TPS to track target reliably thorugh both slow and fast throttle transitions
  21. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  22. 1 point
    TechDave

    Force GDI no output on DI pump driver

    Attach your basemap or send it to tech@linkecu.com
  23. 1 point
    cj

    Need Help turning on Car

    That TPS singal looks better but you still need to run a re-calibration as the first 10-20% of the pedal travel isnt being registered, but that isn't why its stopping at 1500rpm. spark, fuel, afr all look normal. Does it backfire/stutter/etc at 1500 or does it just sound like you're only holding your foot down 20%? It still looks like a mechnical blockage somewhere. If you disconnect the intake piping at the manifold can you rev it higher? This will rule out blocked filter etc. Can you spin the turbo by hand? if it were seized you could be blocking up both the intake and exhaust side which would do something like this. Are your cams intalled properly? either cam being off by a couple teeth (or adjusted too far if they can adjusted) could show up like this. The only ecu-ish thing I can see that might be relevant is that you still have your MAF hooked up, but its calibration is all wrong and the ECU thinks its a fuel pressure sensor! you dont have it configured to use this pressure in the fuelling calculations, so it shouldnt be relevant but its a bit strange. It also only ever shows "pressure" on overrun when you jump off the throttle. This was the same as your last log too. This could be your recirc valve opening and dumping boost, but you shouldnt have any boost there to vent as it never breaks 100kpa at open throttle. I'm not exactly sure what this means the fault is but if it were me i'd look into this a bit and see where it leads.
  24. 1 point
    JMP

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    they're listed in the help file with the new version
  25. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  26. 1 point
    Stevieturbo

    EJ207

    Quite simple, bad tuning can destroy even the best engine in a matter of seconds.
  27. 1 point
    Many devices have configurable bit rate. The Link CAN Lambda can do 100, 125, 250, 500k & 1M so it should work with nearly any other device. The 14point7 one I believe will be configurable bit rate. The AEM X-series is not configurable as it was originally only designed to work on their "AEMNet". Emtron (HV Electronics) is configurable, Motec is configurable, Ecotrons is not. I believe that is possibly bad wording to not give away his source. I believe they come from an OEM application, they have all the correct markings on them and none of the signs of the typical clones. They have a longer cable on them than the common aftermarket LSU4.9. I have installed probably 10 of his Spartan 1 & 2's over the last few years and have not had one fail or play up. The Lambdatronic LT4 is their highend one, the retail is around $4000. They have a more consumer level device, the LT2, for about $1000. https://www.streamlineautomotive.com.au/lamdatronic-lt4-lambda-to-can-module Really, it seems like you may be over thinking things. Any of them mentioned in this post will do a fine job. The Link one will give you a few more fail-safes in terms of CLL control if you intend to run CLL full time and possibly longer sensor life due to the more correct heating strategy. The 14point7 one duplicates our CAN Lambda stream so that will have the same fail-safe functionality. The AEM one is faster than all others I have used but will not disable CLL when there is a sensor error and there may be a possibility of shorter sensor life depending on who you believe. I know a couple of professional tuners here and in Australia that use the Ecotrons ALM as their main tuning tool and rave about how good they are and I have never heard a bad thing about them so they seem good. I know Innovate have a CAN bus one coming out soon (LC3) but I would avoid that at all costs based on experience with their previous products.
  28. 1 point
    Under Chassis and Body what is your Speed Source set to ? If looking here does not solve your issue please upload map and log file.
  29. 1 point
    TechDave

    start attempt force gdi

    Hi guys, I'm based in the UK, send your basemap to tech@linkecu.com or attach it here.
  30. 1 point
    Ok, try these two files. 812776967_BenjiBarraFINALTUNE7PSI New CAN.pclr Benjis Barra Patrol With EGT's.zconfig
  31. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    Gdi spill valve energized +5v

    Do not worry for some reason they have chosen to show the drive circuit, your valve is a derivative of the Bosch HDP Series and the MSV valve is a current not voltage based device, you will need to wire it in accordance with the GDI manual and this is one we can control quite well.
  32. 1 point
    I'm overseas on holiday so have only had a brief look, but the first thing I see is the MAP is reading wrong. As per the manual you need to make sure all inputs are set up, calibrated and reading correctly before starting . It should read near 100kpa with the engine off, yours is reading 25kpa.
  33. 1 point
    Adamw

    4G93T MBT?

    Hydraulic lifters should have zero lash and be near silent. If they are making that much noise you cant hear knock then there is either something wrong with them or the rocker geometry or cam profile.
  34. 1 point
    There are any number of trigger wheels available in terms of size, diameter, tooth setup, it shouldnt be too difficult to fab something up for a solid reliable trigger. On my old RV8 and now LS, I just machined the rear side of the crank pulley a little then welded a 36-1 wheel onto them and added a VR sensor ( done before the LS 24x was accommodated on most systems, although the 24x wheel they use is shite and I wouldnt use it now anwyay ) Trigger setups can be done very cheaply if you want. My wheel and sensor would easily be less than £100 total.
  35. 1 point
    Adamw

    2JZ Which Cam Sensor?

    Either is fine, the only difference is the trigger offset will be different by 360 deg depending which one you use. Our Supra plug-in uses the rear sensor.
  36. 1 point
    Adamw

    After a 1jz vvti base file

    Map attached. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  37. 1 point
    MagicMike

    PRI News

    A PCLink update!
  38. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    Same as your fuel table, so TP would be my suggestion.
  39. 1 point
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  40. 1 point
    Adamw

    WRXLINK V7-9 Connectors

    Yes that will be fine.
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    I actually think *3338 shouldnt be on the website still. *3338b is the correct one. From memory *3338 had problems connecting to old firmware. For best resolution it is better to have a smaller master and bigger values in the fuel table. The main thing you want to avoid is really small numbers in the fuel table - say if your biggest number is 30% you are going to struggle to tune idle. The general advice is pick a master fuel that gives you numbers around 50% in the middle of your fuel table. Correct, they are basically the same, just using the trim you can get a finer adjustment.
  42. 1 point
    Adamw

    Idle Speed control motors - How to

    No, I dont see any way you will be able to get a DC servo motor to control idle air with our ECU. Most engines I do are ITB and I dont bother with any idle valve. Typically you can get pretty decent idle control just using ignition only. Set it up so normal warm idle uses quite retarded ignition (say about 0), that means the throttle blade needs to be set open quite a way to achieve a normal idle speed. Set up the idle ignition table with ECT on one axis so that when its cold it runs about 20deg more timing than when hot. Thats usually enough to get it to cold idle own its own with no driver input.
  43. 1 point
    Adamw

    AEM wideband wiring

    That is the part number for the gauge cup, it doesnt tell me much about the device you have. The common AEM wideband controllers are 30-4110, 30-4100, 30-5130, 30-0300. Look these up online and tell me which one yours looks like.
  44. 1 point
    Adamw

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    done.
  45. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    I've just started building a custom 1UZ VVTi loom and specced an ECU for a customer replacing the standard setup (in a Triumph Stag), and with an Xtreme we quickly ran out of aux outputs. The build is now going to use a Thunder. To run the standard engine functions as implemented on the LS400, it will take at least 12 Aux outs from my calculations:- VVT Bank 1 VVT Bank 2 Fuel Pump ACIS Tacho Ethrottle Relay Ethrottle + Ethrottle - Ethrottle Clutch (PWM 250Hz) Check Engine Light Oil Pressure Warning Light Fan (Viscous on LS400, but I like to add electric for any conversion) Adding Dual Lambda for both banks into the equation (and 3 axis accelerometer, high speed digital inputs, etc.) it quickly makes sense to go for a Thunder. Richard.
  46. 1 point
    Adamw

    2jzgte vvti NEED BASE MAP

    That is just a notice to tell you that you have used up all 20 tables. It is still completely happy and fine to run like that. Since you are wasted spark you wont be able to run individual cylinder knock control so you can turn off 3 of those knock trim tables.
  47. 1 point
    Adamw

    Master Fuel question

    You can do either, often easier to change it while it is running - then you can just bump it up or down until it runs best.
  48. 1 point
    This is the type of thing that would normally be used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292427582383 You definitely have trigger errors but it is hard to tell if it is due to interference or some other problem. Im not sure how much we can rely on the built-in triggerscope to show good detail of the Nissan 360 slot trigger at high RPM - I think it is possibly a bit beyond its capabilities. I think the trigger voltage dropping away at higher RPM is due to the filter. Trigger 1 filter should be set to 1 for high tooth count wheels - can you confirm you have it set to 1? If not can you do another 5000RPM triggerscope but with trig 1 filter set at 1. Did you try switching on low resolution mode?
  49. 1 point
    JMP

    Toyota 86 CAN

    AGT Engineering has all the data for them, he made his own boxes of tricks for engine conversions: https://www.facebook.com/AGTEngineering/
  50. 1 point
    I have this working now but i do not see the wide band connected to AN Volt2 or any other sensor connected to AN Volt (oil pressure, Oil Temp, fuel pressure) Is there anything i need to change somewhere? Thanks in advance
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