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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/26/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  3. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  4. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  5. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  6. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  7. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  8. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  9. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  10. 2 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  11. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  12. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  13. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  14. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  15. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  16. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  18. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  19. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  20. 1 point
    gtihk

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I think you need to consider using a different tuner. There should be plenty around in Victoria?
  21. 1 point
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Also looks like base fuel pressure is only 2.5 bar. You have a fuel pressure sensor input but not using it in the modelled equation. Injector dead time curve has steps in it.
  22. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Is the turbo too small? It's not holding boost There are huge swings in Lambda at cruise from very lean to very rich. Quite frankly Lambda is way off its targets almost all of the time. Probably due to the large jumps in the fuel table between load points. At one point in cruise it is as high as 1.2 (17afr) @3000 rpm at steady throttle. It is also very lean at times in boost like .956 (13.8afr) @18psi. Just two examples of a constant theme. For some reason it has 2 x Lambda Target Tables on one fuel type. Generally 2* timing comes out for every 20kpa (3psi) load. Have a look at the ignition table - It's just sitting there in big blocks of the same and higher numbers. The CLL is turned on with 0 gain and it doesn't seem to be making any corrections although the fuelling needs to be pretty close for it to work well anyway. Put Lambda avg and Lambda Target together in your logging time plot and you'll see what's happening. The knock control is turned off so we can't see what is going on there.
  23. 1 point
    Adamw

    Modelled fuel critical settings

    The engine capacity setting will mostly just scale the airflow calculation up or down. So if you get it wrong your VE numbers wont quite match reality. Probably not a big deal.
  24. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  25. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  26. 1 point
    It'll download if you're signed into the forum, it won't work otherwise.
  27. 1 point
    Adamw

    CAN DI issue

    I suspect simply because we have not yet come across a car that has a CAN bus starter request. Your idea with the Aux connected to a DI is really the only work-around at present if it must be via CAN.
  28. 1 point
    Yep thats the one
  29. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  30. 1 point
    Another thing to consider if your using the Can (as i found out the hard way ) is the data rate for communication , its not often listed in the specs but critical if your using more than 1 devise AEM X series is 500kb Link CAN Lambda is 1000 I have a mounted but unused AEM if you need one
  31. 1 point
    rocklizzard91

    SUBARU STI DBW TO DBC

    why are you looking to swap? im in the opposite boat, looking to go from DBC to DBW! trade me your stuff! haha
  32. 1 point
    Adamw

    E46 m3 gauge cluster - shift light

    Yes, I have a pretty complete E46 M3 CAN setup. I will post it later when im at my pc.
  33. 1 point
    cj

    4age 20v + Atom

    For the coils themselves? here's the first good result from google, which lines up exactly with what Adam said. Sounds like you want the sequential option
  34. 1 point
    Adamw

    4age 20v + Atom

    So those coils have built-in ignitors. I havent used these coils before but the pic below found online. Pin 1 is the trigger wire as explained above. Pin 2 is ground which should ideally be connected to a clean point on the cylinder head (not manifold etc). Pin 3 is +12V, this should come from a relay that switches on and off with the ignition switch.
  35. 1 point
    Ken Dunkley

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    Hi- An old saying is - An engine wants what it wants - . Perhaps make it richer in the areas where you feel this noticeable bucking. To me this is a sign of running lean . With your cams you can get intake reversion and all sorts of weird pressure waves happening that can effect smooth running . Especially at that point of light throttle and low/medium engine speed . Dont be stuck on A/F targets at this particular problem area - Try it at 0.9 and see how it runs .
  36. 1 point
    TechDave

    PCLink Software Issues

    It's a graphics driver issue, fixed it for 5.6.6
  37. 1 point
    Adamw

    CAN to Dash on a plug in

    You will only have two wires soldered into the CANF plug as per the pic above, CAN H & CAN L. It will then not interrupt PC communication.
  38. 1 point
    Adamw

    After a 1jz vvti base file

    Map attached. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  39. 1 point
    TechDave

    PRI News

    No no no, we're not releasing two new plugins. Fake news.
  40. 1 point
    abadi

    E throttle noise.

    awsome,, you are the best adam.. i got the car running adam.. thanks for the advice do small map then scale it bigger..
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    Fuel level calibration

    You will need to wire an external pull up and an RC filter to damp to signal from the fuel sloshing around. See the bottom of this post for an example: You can then set the analog input up as a GP input and use a cal table to scale it 0-100%
  42. 1 point
    Adamw

    Idle Speed control motors - How to

    No, I dont see any way you will be able to get a DC servo motor to control idle air with our ECU. Most engines I do are ITB and I dont bother with any idle valve. Typically you can get pretty decent idle control just using ignition only. Set it up so normal warm idle uses quite retarded ignition (say about 0), that means the throttle blade needs to be set open quite a way to achieve a normal idle speed. Set up the idle ignition table with ECT on one axis so that when its cold it runs about 20deg more timing than when hot. Thats usually enough to get it to cold idle own its own with no driver input.
  43. 1 point
    Just enough to let the motor sit at a low idle with no load on it. It will be a case of trial and error.
  44. 1 point
    Tim D

    Boost trace log

    Take a log and capture these parameters (assuming you're running closed loop), it makes analysing and tweaking a piece of cake!
  45. 1 point
    Adamw

    Master Fuel question

    I would calculate it like this: If your measured lambda was 0.61(9:1AFR). Lets say your target was typical NA target of 0.87. So 0.61/0.87 = 0.70 (i.e need to remove 30%). New master fuel = 20 x 0.70 = 14ms.
  46. 1 point
    Adamw

    Gear Detection

    No from a functionality perspective, just it might be distracting to the driver to see a flash of zero and the logs wont look as nice. Yep you could do that too but I havent needed to on the cars I have played with. You are not going to hurt it with a few test shifts so try it and see. If it is not cutting for long enough it either wont engage or you will get a big clunk.
  47. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    Yes, our naming convention make this a little more confusing than it was in the G4 the first time you do it. Below is how you would set up a virtual aux that activates when DI1 is on and DI2 is off. The important bit that you probably missed is the bits I have highlighted in pink.
  48. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    The best resource is the help file in PCLink as its searchable and has table of contents etc. We no longer do PDF versions as they were too big and difficult to use, the last PDF version I have is 3 years old so doesnt have the Monsoon in it.
  49. 1 point
    Swift

    Swifts track car

    Thanks so much to the Link Support guys...Adam...Simon...I have absolutely hammered them with Numpty questions. Its going well...steep learning curve for me...but all sensors, switches and triggers are working. Coil on plugs and injectors test fine. Next is the e throttle setup. Im glad I bought the Link extreme....the support is worth it...I'd be lost without the help.
  50. 1 point
    MarcD

    CLL fuel correction %

    HI Adam is there a way to get mixture map to "add back" the correction that CLL has applied and is registered in the log and then apply to the fuel table? am leaving CLL on as cheap insurance but want to ensure I am as close as possible with the map. thanks Marc
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