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  1. 3 points


    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  3. 2 points

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  4. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  5. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  6. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  7. 2 points

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  8. 2 points

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  9. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  10. 2 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  11. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  12. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  13. 2 points

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  14. 2 points

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  15. 2 points

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  16. 2 points

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  17. 2 points

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  18. 2 points

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  19. 2 points

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  20. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  21. 1 point

    G4+ Bluetooth

    The DC adaptor is just to supply power to the router, it plugs into the micro USB port that you see in the pic above next to the two Ethernet ports. On the back of the router, not shown in the picture is a normal USB A port that the ecu tuning cable plugs into. The Ethernet ports will not be used at all.
  22. 1 point

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  23. 1 point

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    If you leave the control solenoid unplugged you will have the cams sitting at a safe position. (or just have the Aux turned off)
  24. 1 point

    Thunder lambda sensors

    Im not convinced if it is actually caused by electrical noise or if it is actually the throttle blade moving due to vibration or poor adjustment or lumpy vacuum etc. The "noise" seems to mostly disappear when you open the throttle. Has the cable got plenty of free play and the throttle blade is sitting on a mechanical stop etc? What is the throttle body on this thing? Note you need to calibate your TPS as it is showing 40% at idle.
  25. 1 point

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  26. 1 point

    Need a quick hand with launch control

    From what youve said about that log being approx 70mph, try 224 as your calibration number for DI1. should put you in the ballpark. Then grab a gps/phone and a straight road or dyno and a friend, hold the speed steady on the GPS, then have your friend bump the number up/down until it matches.
  27. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  28. 1 point

    E46 m3 gauge cluster - shift light

    Yes, I have a pretty complete E46 M3 CAN setup. I will post it later when im at my pc.
  29. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

    You need to go to the set base timing screen and adjust the trigger offset until the timing light shows the same timing as the ecu setting "lock timing to". Make sure you hit the enter key when changing the offset. Yes, assuming the crankshaft is "even fire" and the firing order is set correctly in the software the TDC events will be automatically set.
  30. 1 point

    start attempt force gdi

    Trigger 1 edge will need to be set to falling for that waveform you show above. You will notice there is a rising edge in the middle of the "missing teeth area" so rising edge will not work. Do us a new log after changing that.
  31. 1 point
    Under Chassis and Body what is your Speed Source set to ? If looking here does not solve your issue please upload map and log file.
  32. 1 point

    2003 MINI Cooper S GTS race car

    With a 11% pulley you'll probably pick up 10-15hp easy, You talking about the "461" Catcam? Down low it will make the same as a "469". Throttle is a good idea to restrict the air flow.
  33. 1 point
    Joe Bucci

    EMAP (Exhaust Back Pressure) Sensor

    Here is an example of mine. Source is EGR port, which may skew the number from actual, but I don't have a way to source off the manifold of turbine housing right now. The far side of the canister will go to a braided line. The braided line will go to a firewall mounted pressure transducer. I suppose the transducer could be screwed directly into the canister.
  34. 1 point

    4age 20v + Atom

    So those coils have built-in ignitors. I havent used these coils before but the pic below found online. Pin 1 is the trigger wire as explained above. Pin 2 is ground which should ideally be connected to a clean point on the cylinder head (not manifold etc). Pin 3 is +12V, this should come from a relay that switches on and off with the ignition switch.
  35. 1 point

    Warm start issue

    Hi timmy. Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required
  36. 1 point

    CAN to Dash on a plug in

    You will only have two wires soldered into the CANF plug as per the pic above, CAN H & CAN L. It will then not interrupt PC communication.
  37. 1 point

    Help needed with ecu for cooper s

    The factory "post supercharger" MAP sensor is normally used, it is rated for 2.5Bar absolute (approx 1.5Bar boost), assuming you are not planning to run boost higher than that then the factory one is fine. This is already set up in our base map so you dont need to do anything, it will work out of the box. The pre-supercharger sensor is also connected to the ECU and can be logged or used for diagnostics but it is generally not used as part of the engine control. For the CAN lambda, the most common method to connect is by using our CANPCB adapter cable and the mating CANF plug, you still need to run your own wires from the CAN Lambda to the CANF plug though. A pic to show this set up is below. Some dealers may also offer a pre-fabricated loom to make life easier, here is an example from NZEFI: http://www.nzefi.com/wp-content/uploads/NZEFI-Link-G4-G4-ECU-to-CAN-Device-Cables.jpg
  38. 1 point

    2JZ Which Cam Sensor?

    Either is fine, the only difference is the trigger offset will be different by 360 deg depending which one you use. Our Supra plug-in uses the rear sensor.
  39. 1 point

    After a 1jz vvti base file

    Map attached. 1JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr
  40. 1 point

    Tuning Considerations

    This just appears to be because you have a lumpy idle and a low resolution trigger wheel. The timing bounces around because the RPM is rapidly changing. As you notice this effect will smooth out at higher RPM. I think that will be a good idea, load source = BAP and use TP as the load axis on the fuel table. Then the unstable MAP has no effect on the amount of fuel injected. MGP can keep fueling more consistant over large altitude changes. This is often not relevant for many users, but more important for hill climbs and aircraft. You can use either on the ignition table, but if you are going to change the fuel table to TP then I would do the same for the ignition table. You Zeitronix shows -ve 85-170, so that is reading MGP, not MAP. Standard atmosheric pressure at sea level is 760mmHg absolute, so your zeitronix reading "-170mmHg" would mean 760-170= 590mmHg or 79KPa absolute (MAP) Yes. Most parameters will get a default value assigned if there is no input set up. This is not so important for stuff like oil pressure but if you think of inputs such as fuel temp or air temp for instance that is used in the fuel calculation the ECU needs a realistic number to use if there is no input assigned.
  41. 1 point

    E throttle noise.

    awsome,, you are the best adam.. i got the car running adam.. thanks for the advice do small map then scale it bigger..
  42. 1 point

    WRXLINK V7-9 Connectors

    At the original TPS plug you will already have a 5V, gnd and a AN Volt wire, so you only need to run 1 new AN Volt and the 2 motor auxes up to the throttle body. That will leave you one spare on the expansion for your oil press. If you run short on AN Volt inputs in the future there's still a couple on the main header you can repurpose. No drama there, I would be starting to look carefully if you had more than about 15 sensors.
  43. 1 point

    Idle Speed control motors - How to

    No, I dont see any way you will be able to get a DC servo motor to control idle air with our ECU. Most engines I do are ITB and I dont bother with any idle valve. Typically you can get pretty decent idle control just using ignition only. Set it up so normal warm idle uses quite retarded ignition (say about 0), that means the throttle blade needs to be set open quite a way to achieve a normal idle speed. Set up the idle ignition table with ECT on one axis so that when its cold it runs about 20deg more timing than when hot. Thats usually enough to get it to cold idle own its own with no driver input.
  44. 1 point
    Just enough to let the motor sit at a low idle with no load on it. It will be a case of trial and error.
  45. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    12v PWM Output

    Aux 5 to 8 can high side drive to turn the pump on or off, although if you want to use a variable speed, and are using the Aux out as a GP PWM, 0% duty cycle will be 12 Volts and so turn your pump on and 100% duty cycle will output 0V and turn the pump off, just set your PWM table up with the temperature versus duty cycle axis upside down. HTH, Richard.
  46. 1 point
    This is not a valve I have seen before but I would expect with three wires it would have to be a solenoid valve. A Stepper usually needs 4 or 6 wires. Start with the min & max clamps set to 0 & 100% then set the clamps properly after you have tuned the base position table.
  47. 1 point
    Tim D

    Boost trace log

    Take a log and capture these parameters (assuming you're running closed loop), it makes analysing and tweaking a piece of cake!
  48. 1 point

    Master Fuel question

    You can do either, often easier to change it while it is running - then you can just bump it up or down until it runs best.
  49. 1 point

    ID1000's I'm confused

    Can you point out where? I had a quick look and it seems to match to me...
  50. 1 point


    Our current 6 CAN ID's allowance is not normally much of a limitation for the market our ECU's are used in. Most motorsport devices allow sequential or compound messaging which allow you to send multiple data words on the same ID. It is usually just odd proprietary stuff like AEMNET or trying to duplicate an OEM CAN bus that needs multiple ID's. It would be nice to have more ID's but there is a finite amount of memory in the ECU so the allowance that is given to CAN functions has to be balanced against other features that users want. I suspect you wont find it a limitation at all.
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