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  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  3. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  4. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  5. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  6. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  7. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  8. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  9. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  10. 2 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  11. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  12. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  13. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  14. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  15. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  16. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  18. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  19. 1 point
    cj

    Repeating Fault Code 75

    Unfortunately that log doesnt contain values for TP Error Accumulator or TP/Target Error Accumulator. If we cant fix it here, add these 2 into the logged parameters for next time so we have better info next time it faults. For now, we can see here that the accel pedal has no issues and rule that out - both main and sub track nicely together and show no AP errors Comparing TP main & Sub we see the 2 of them track together quite nicely so its unlikely to be a TPS error. These 2 values seem to be within 0.2 - 0.3 at all times which is fine. comparing e-throttle target against TP main & Sub postitions however, we see that every time you get off the throttle, the TPS postition almost "bounces" back up a couple %. Usually this is caused by PID setting issues in the ethrottle control. in your case it looks like they might be a bit too aggressive, and its causing some pretty bad overshoot (and for it to not quite oscillate, but still jump back in the wrong direction once it overshoots). This screenshot shows the worst example I could find of both the "bounce" when you go from full throttle to 0%, and for general poor tracking of target -> actual TPS angle. Note the blue TPS line overshooting by 10% ish repeatedly between 10:04 and 10:08. There is another good example at 13:40 +/- 5 seconds. I'd suggest setting your ethrottle to "always run", then with the engine off, tune your PID settings a bit while logging these same values, until you get TPS to track target reliably thorugh both slow and fast throttle transitions
  20. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ Bluetooth

    The DC adaptor is just to supply power to the router, it plugs into the micro USB port that you see in the pic above next to the two Ethernet ports. On the back of the router, not shown in the picture is a normal USB A port that the ecu tuning cable plugs into. The Ethernet ports will not be used at all.
  21. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  22. 1 point
    JMP

    What is wrong with my tune?

    on a second look this morning, your tuner has also used both the charge temp approximation table and the IAT Fuel Trim Table, without much correlation between the two. Same with using modeled fuel mode and the warm up enrichment table is still in use as you would in a traditional fuel mode setup. whole map/config likely needs revisiting
  23. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.
  24. 1 point
    Simon

    G4 plus PnP GTR34 hks v cam

    If you leave the control solenoid unplugged you will have the cams sitting at a safe position. (or just have the Aux turned off)
  25. 1 point
    Connect to the factory knock sensor wiring. Bosch 0 261 231 006 is a common wideband part number.
  26. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  27. 1 point
    Kenian

    LINK G4+

    I beleive that this is correct - just like a sr20DE i setup recently both trig 1 and trig 2 are driven off the CAS that is located inside the distributor cap and no crank trigger is needed. Ive just had a quick google on trigger setup for this engine and there seems to be alot of info on Megasquirt formums regarding trigger wiring etc. You can most likely get your answers off that.
  28. 1 point
    cj

    Need a quick hand with launch control

    From what youve said about that log being approx 70mph, try 224 as your calibration number for DI1. should put you in the ballpark. Then grab a gps/phone and a straight road or dyno and a friend, hold the speed steady on the GPS, then have your friend bump the number up/down until it matches.
  29. 1 point
    Simon

    Evo 8 dbw wiring diagram

    We have a pinout for the EVO 10 throttle in the PC link help file Navigation: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Mitsubishi EVO X We don't have anything on the pedal.
  30. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  31. 1 point
    Adamw

    AIM MXS Strada Alarm setup

    Yep that will do what you want. The LED will flash the code and the fault code number will be displayed on the dash.
  32. 1 point
    Another thing to consider if your using the Can (as i found out the hard way ) is the data rate for communication , its not often listed in the specs but critical if your using more than 1 devise AEM X series is 500kb Link CAN Lambda is 1000 I have a mounted but unused AEM if you need one
  33. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    Need Help turning on Car

    Are you 360 degrees out ?
  34. 1 point
    Adamw

    E46 m3 gauge cluster - shift light

    Yes, I have a pretty complete E46 M3 CAN setup. I will post it later when im at my pc.
  35. 1 point
    Change that to : Driven wheel speed source is set to: OFF Non driven wheel speed source is set to: LF Wheel Speed
  36. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    Spark plugs

    Difficult to see the plug looks old but there is a lot going on, the plug is to cold, the timing looks too advanced and the fueling looks ok, you say 11.3:1 but you haven't said what fuel you are using.
  37. 1 point
    Simon

    2004 Sti misfire under load V88

    Make sure all filters are on level 1 / low and you might need to lower the arming voltages at higher RPMs.
  38. 1 point
    I don't see any problem with the set up. Why is Aux 7 set to high polarity tho? if it works like that it would suggest there is a problem with the wiring. polarity = high means it works inverted to normal, so the aux output is off to command the fuel pump to turn on?
  39. 1 point
    Adamw

    2JZ Which Cam Sensor?

    Either is fine, the only difference is the trigger offset will be different by 360 deg depending which one you use. Our Supra plug-in uses the rear sensor.
  40. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    This just appears to be because you have a lumpy idle and a low resolution trigger wheel. The timing bounces around because the RPM is rapidly changing. As you notice this effect will smooth out at higher RPM. I think that will be a good idea, load source = BAP and use TP as the load axis on the fuel table. Then the unstable MAP has no effect on the amount of fuel injected. MGP can keep fueling more consistant over large altitude changes. This is often not relevant for many users, but more important for hill climbs and aircraft. You can use either on the ignition table, but if you are going to change the fuel table to TP then I would do the same for the ignition table. You Zeitronix shows -ve 85-170, so that is reading MGP, not MAP. Standard atmosheric pressure at sea level is 760mmHg absolute, so your zeitronix reading "-170mmHg" would mean 760-170= 590mmHg or 79KPa absolute (MAP) Yes. Most parameters will get a default value assigned if there is no input set up. This is not so important for stuff like oil pressure but if you think of inputs such as fuel temp or air temp for instance that is used in the fuel calculation the ECU needs a realistic number to use if there is no input assigned.
  41. 1 point
    augusto

    3SGTE MR2 COP G4+ PnP Tacho

    Hello Use an auxiliary output, configured for tachometer. This output will energize the relay coil. Then you take the signal for the tachometer. Augusto
  42. 1 point
    Adamw

    WRXLINK V7-9 Connectors

    At the original TPS plug you will already have a 5V, gnd and a AN Volt wire, so you only need to run 1 new AN Volt and the 2 motor auxes up to the throttle body. That will leave you one spare on the expansion for your oil press. If you run short on AN Volt inputs in the future there's still a couple on the main header you can repurpose. No drama there, I would be starting to look carefully if you had more than about 15 sensors.
  43. 1 point
    Just enough to let the motor sit at a low idle with no load on it. It will be a case of trial and error.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    Thunder would be great. Loads of spare aux outs and inputs, and dual lambda too. You also get built in ECU hold power control. I have a 3uz which I will run with my thunder. Just not sure what car it's going in yet !
  46. 1 point
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  47. 1 point
    Adamw

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  48. 1 point
    barge

    FIC 1650cc Subaru Injectors

    I switched to these injectors because they're stainless and to handle a bigger turbo with E85. In case anyone else is looking to run them I got injector data (attached) from FIC. I combined this data with the custom flow data i got with the injectors and i've been very happy with how they've worked. Link ECU 1650cc.xlsx
  49. 1 point
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    Our current 6 CAN ID's allowance is not normally much of a limitation for the market our ECU's are used in. Most motorsport devices allow sequential or compound messaging which allow you to send multiple data words on the same ID. It is usually just odd proprietary stuff like AEMNET or trying to duplicate an OEM CAN bus that needs multiple ID's. It would be nice to have more ID's but there is a finite amount of memory in the ECU so the allowance that is given to CAN functions has to be balanced against other features that users want. I suspect you wont find it a limitation at all.
  50. 1 point
    MarcD

    CLL fuel correction %

    HI Adam is there a way to get mixture map to "add back" the correction that CLL has applied and is registered in the log and then apply to the fuel table? am leaving CLL on as cheap insurance but want to ensure I am as close as possible with the map. thanks Marc
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