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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  3. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  4. 2 points
    Adamw

    ECU Unlock fails

    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
  5. 2 points
    On my setup I use a 3d table to PWM an engine water pump. After a lot of testing I found using the temp output from the radiator and ECT the best way to control the pump. Takes into account out side temp and vechile speed. Would recommend you try that way to control the thermostat. Ive also connected a 2nd Digital output to the same soild state relay as an override. So if I'm at a set TPS or boost range the pump goes to 100%. After a bit of testing during different conditions I can keep the ECT within 2deg in all situations.
  6. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  7. 2 points
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.
  8. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  9. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  10. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  11. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  12. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  13. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  14. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  15. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  16. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  18. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  19. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  20. 2 points
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  21. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  22. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  23. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  24. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  25. 2 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  26. 1 point
    Aux 5 should be the CEL, try turning it to test on to see if it works as advertised. It should be on pin D-15 HTH, Richard.
  27. 1 point
    Simon

    injectors wiring Vs Ecu mode

    Multi point group injection mode.
  28. 1 point
    redmist

    programmable logic

    Nice job David! Thank you for the pointers to Pauls well presented site. Thankyou Paul for spending the time and effort to detail such. I gather the reason people have migrated from the arduino mega/nano to the teensy (or other platform) is because it's just too slow? I suspect by the time I generate interrupts from the flappy paddles and insert new frames on the canbus I'll simply ask too much from this stupidly cheap device. My dash is currently being benched (chose a mass of 7 segments as they are bright in sunlight for the open race car), have it testing libraries and some basic code to pull frames and data from the canbus... it just needs some proto board... me to design and print a case (I'll keep away from PLA now thanks Dave!!!) and a tonne of tidying in code and wiring. Think I'll design and print the case around the ability to replace it with a Raspberry Pi Zero W. The nano seems fast enough, but does not seem reliable. I've also broken apart the canbus frames with my Pi based radio telemetry such that given the 7 segment and nanopixel libraries I shouldn't have too much issue migrating to the Pi.
  29. 1 point
    Steve

    Heat soak

    https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/product/t1-fast-at/
  30. 1 point
    paulr33

    programmable logic

    Good work. I ended up going for a plex usdm but making the arduino CAN display did help me learn it all and how it works which was good fun
  31. 1 point
    Adamw

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Our base map is not set up in modelled mode so the fuel map is not VE, it is % of master fuel. As per the manual that comes with it you need to adjust the master fuel when trying to start it. Do the cam angle test on each camshaft to confirm and set the offsets correctly on trig 2 VVT and DI2. Set the test pulse count to 3 for this test.
  32. 1 point
    I would suggest you start by logging a hot start and posting that and your tune file here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  33. 1 point
    Hi, Any update on serial stream availability for current storm ecu? Thanks.
  34. 1 point
    The Crydom DC-series SSR's work fine, I've been running my 450's off one all last year with no problems. But yes you do need a flyback diode at the pumps. ( 2x450's off one 60A ) I've a 3rd in tank pump if need be and a 100A relay sitting if and when I do need to use it And in no way whatsoever is the little Hella relay suitable for such a purpose, even from the standpoint of coping with the current of such a pump, nevermind trying to pwm it too. Haltech offer this drawing and is how I use mine with Syvecs. Although a high frequency would probably be better with a proper controller, it does seem SSR's dont really enjoy being pushed in this way. I found mine happy around 200Hz. https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/SSR_Power_SW_Web.pdf I do use one of the Hella SSR relays for my water injection though.
  35. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ Bluetooth

    The DC adaptor is just to supply power to the router, it plugs into the micro USB port that you see in the pic above next to the two Ethernet ports. On the back of the router, not shown in the picture is a normal USB A port that the ecu tuning cable plugs into. The Ethernet ports will not be used at all.
  36. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  37. 1 point
    goddess7

    Evo 8 dbw wiring diagram

    Here is evo10 APS. pin1 : +5V pin2: Sensor Ground pin3 : APS (Main) pin4 : +5V pin5 : Sensor Ground pin6 : APS (Sub)
  38. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  39. 1 point
    Rossobianconero

    EJ207

    you will have no problem maxing out the VF37 with the stock engine, it can take that turbo no problem with a proper tune.
  40. 1 point
    I will give some comments. The Link CAN Lambda was designed specifically to work with our ECU, it has bi-directional communication so not only is data received from the device but the ECU also sends data to it. This allows the proper warm-up strategy to be applied during start up, EMAP compensation can be applied correctly for situations where there is back pressure and if a sensor is reporting an error condition the ecu can disable CLL or in the case of multiple sensors, ignore the failed one from "lambda average" calculations. The stuff like temperature, heater voltage, etc are mostly only used for diagnostics. Most of the 3rd party devices will have no receive - they only transmit data so they dont know if the engine is running or how long it has been running for to apply the correct warm-up strategy (potentially shorter sensor life). Many of the 3rd party devices will send some sort of error or status message but in many cases it is not in the format that our ecu needs it to be able to do stuff like disable CLL. In some cases you will be able to log these errors but unlikely act upon them. I have used a few of the X-series AEM's on budget installs and they have worked ok for me to date but I do hear/see some reports of short sensor life with them more often than others. To get the extreme response speed they certainly dont use a Bosch chipset or control the sensor in the way Bosch designed it to be so sensor life is possibly a side effect that. Some claim they are not using a genuine Bosch sensor either. Yes, an ecu controlled relay is a good idea. It still wont give the proper heat up strategy but it is better than nothing. No. Free-air cal is not particularly useful in my opinion, it was something made famous by Innovate as they didnt use the Bosch fitted calibration resistor. Air has about 21% O2, exhaust gas has none when less than 1 Lambda. So it only calibrates on the lean side of the curve and even then it is like trying to calibrate your precision 1volt voltmeter using a 2000V source... Ecotrons ones have a good reputation - I have never used one myself but only ever hear good comments about them. If you are not in a big hurry I know 14point7 are releasing a CAN bus "Spartan 3" soon, I tested a prototype a while ago. I use his analog ones for most of my budget installs and have very good success with them.
  41. 1 point
    rocklizzard91

    SUBARU STI DBW TO DBC

    why are you looking to swap? im in the opposite boat, looking to go from DBC to DBW! trade me your stuff! haha
  42. 1 point
    Adamw

    E46 m3 gauge cluster - shift light

    Yes, I have a pretty complete E46 M3 CAN setup. I will post it later when im at my pc.
  43. 1 point
    cj

    Over run fuel cut clarification

    In this particular circumstance I have seen this happen before. The car is warm, sits powered off for some time, and while the water in the radiator cools down quickly (especially if you have the key on and therfore probably the fan running), the water in the engine absorbs the heat from the hot engine however. If your sensor is on the way "out" of the engine, what you see is immedaitely on cranking, the temp increases 4 or 5 deg as the hot water in the engine goes out past the sensor, then it drop by 10 or 20 as the cool water from the radiator makes it way through the engine to the ECT sensor. There are however some weird things going on the the confguration of the sensors... There are 2x coolant temp sensors defined, and both seem to be working (they are within a couple deg of each other but sometimes they diverge, so they are clearly not 2x signals from the same sensor) The Temp3 values align with ECT so it looks like temp4 is just being ignored, but having 2x sensors defined as the same things is asking for trouble. Same thing is configured for IAT - Temp1 is being used, and temp2 is being ignored. If these extras are just for logging you should define them as GP Temp and just label them, rather than telling the ECU you have 2x IAT's and 2x ECT sensors. There is something odd going on with the oil pressure sensor. It reads ~115 kpa with the engine off. Is this an absolute pressure sensor rather than a gauge sensor? if so, you should offset the calibration by 100kpa so it reads ~0 when the engine is off. Otherwise any safety's you set up will be wrong by ~100kpa. Is it the same type of sensor as the oil pressure, and its wired up but not installed in the fuel line? I think you have the same gauge vs absolute thing going on here too. 120kpa is a bit co-incidental of a value for it to stick on for no reason. If so, you need to do the same thing with offsetting the calibration. The reason you need to set up open loop before closed loop for most systems is that the closed loop logic is something like "use the open loop value, +/- a small correction based on feedback from sensors". If the open loop values are completely off, the "start" point for any closed loop control is way off and it may not be allowed to go that far away from baseline, and it will take some time to learn this "error" each time you start up (or return to idle for idle control) so it will run badly for a bit until it figures out what realistic values should be for the various control systems. The various "lockout" values only apply to the system they are set for. Idle lockouts control when the idle systems kick in. They have no bearing on other systems (ie overrun fuel cut). If you add the value "overrun fuel cut status" to a log view you can see when this kicks in. In your log about -5:00 you can see if coming on and off at the upper end of the idle range, but it is giving you the fuel back below ~1400rpm. Any stalling behaviour is caused by soemthing else as fuel isnt being cut below 1400rpm. I'm suspicsou you might have an intake leak. Your MAP is at ~95kpa at -2:30 in your log. I'm guess you have ITB's or huge cams but thats still very low vacuum. If you set it to open loop idle does it run OK? It seems off that the idle solenoid can be reporting 60% DC and yet you still only have 600rpm and bascially atmospheric MAP. Is the throttle screw on the TPS set correctly so you have a slightly low but passable idle with the idle solenoid disconnected?
  44. 1 point
    I know of some people that have done this but it’s not a good option in my opinion. Having two separate ecu’s controlling things with no communication between them and little understanding of how the oem ecu controls things is bringing a lot of risk to the party. For instance if the oem ecu cuts fuel as a limiter but your port injectors are still squirting you are probably going to melt parts quickly. With port/DI combos there are many other scenarios where the timing difference between the two injection events can cause very lean cycles also. Fair enough if it’s a junk yard engine with not much value and you are prepared to learn by breaking things...
  45. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    CAN to Dash on a plug in

    At the ECU end, white is can high or +, green is can low or -, connect these to the corresponding white CAN1+, and blue CAN1- at the dash end. HTH, Richard.
  46. 1 point
    I fabbed a simple bracket and bolted it to my ac pump bracket. Drilled and tapped. I have also seen it bolted to the other side of the oilpump on a simple bracket. See if you can find pictures by member lostsoul here or at the aus300zx forum.
  47. 1 point
    Adamw

    Subaru V5-6 IAT

    It wont, the same input is available on the Exp connector and B136-19, so only one can be used. You still have AN Temp 2 on the Exp that you can use though.
  48. 1 point
    MagicMike

    PRI News

    A PCLink update!
  49. 1 point
    Adamw

    High low boost setup

    It is still not clear what you are asking but a common set up would be as below. 2 wastegate tables, switched between via your switch. When the switch is off it will use table 1, watsegate will be sent 0%DC, when the switch is on table 2 will become active and wastegate will get 50%DC. These numbers are just made up to give you an example.
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
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