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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  2. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  3. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  4. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  5. 2 points
    Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.
  6. 2 points
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Yes it is now ok to run the current release.
  7. 2 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  8. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  9. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  10. 2 points
    Adamw

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  11. 2 points
    TechDave

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  12. 2 points
    We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared. The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung. PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
  13. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  14. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  15. 2 points
    Adamw

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Yes, in the next 5.6.6 firmware the CLL trim has 2 fully configurable 3D tables, so you can have different limits for adding fuel than for subtracting fuel and have those limits mapped against MAP, RPM, or almost any other parameter you like. I dont think the release is far away.
  16. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    Bosch DBW 0280750101 / 82mm

    The Dodge Ram settings from the help file are usually quite a good starting point for most of the Bosch throttles.
  18. 2 points
    Here you go: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D
  19. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  20. 2 points
    Adamw

    12v PWM Output

    The aux outputs have a pull up resistor to 12V, so they are 12V when "off" and ground when on. These can be directly connected to an aux out with nothing extra. As Richard says though, the logic may be inverted ie 0% = max flow 100% = min flow, I have set one up before but cant remember if they work that way or not. What is important though is they need a 3ms "wake up" pulse, so to do this you have a cell in one corner of your PWM table that it will always pass through during at startup (say 500RPM), then you can drop back to normal numbers after that. Use 150Hz frequency and 50%DC to give the 3ms. Read this for the min/max DC: https://www.tecomotive.com/download/PWMinfo_EN.pdf
  21. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  22. 2 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  23. 2 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  24. 1 point
    Simon

    Sorry to ask. What software?

    We will need to identify the generation of ECU as a first step. As there is different software for the different generations. A photo of the unit with lid off would be the best bet to identify it.
  25. 1 point
    cj

    Traditional to Modelled

    Yes with a couple of assumptions. Changing traditional to modelled only affects fuel delivery, so as long as you re-tune fuelling to the same point, all other things will be equal. Eg it doesnt matter how you calculated the amount of fuel to add, X fuel at Y boost pressure is still safe at Z degrees of ignition. Unless you changed mechanical components of the engine/turbo/etc, those tables relate mostly to what is good/safe on your engine, not how much fuel it needs. The bit where you have to at least think about what you are doing though, is that to start with, your fuelling will be off, and so whatever ignition values you had previously used might be potentially dangerous if you are initially running a bit leaner while re-tuning.
  26. 1 point
    cj

    Trigger1 err

    Sounds like you should run a trigger scope capture while holding rpm at just over 5500, maybe we will see some noise in the trigger signals
  27. 1 point
    Adamw

    CLL for WOT only

    You can set the trim tables up however you like, but an example below would allow CLL to add 15% fuel when above 90%TP or remove 5% fuel when above 90% TP.
  28. 1 point
    cj

    Really high ingnition values

    If it were mine I would probably only drive it to/from the dyno and maybe to the shops. I wouldn't put any stress on it while it clearly has something wrong with the timing as you dont really know what else might be wrong to cause this, and what damage it's doing in the background. My gut feel is still that somehow your "zero" point is 10 or so degrees off from real TDC. You're showing ~18 deg @ idle, but a car can idle quite happily at 8 with the idle valve open a bit extra, and your injection timing been off by 10deg wont mean much. I'd start with doing the ECU calbration process again, following the setup guide exactly. If that doesnt help, probably rip the alternator belt, pulley, and side timing covers off the engine and make sure that all the timing marks are lined up on the actual crank + cams. The maybe a compression test and/or leakdown test? If you somehow had compression issues you could probably run additional timing without knock as the pressure in the cylinders would be a lot less than it "should be" at the level of boost you are seeing in the manifold. Are there any other issues with the engine? leaks, using water or oil, weird noises?
  29. 1 point
    Adamw

    Stalling Issue

    I dont think the log shows it stalling so we may not be seeing the real cause, but a couple of things I notice: ISC RPM lockout is set quite high @1500RPM, something like 400RPM would be more normal. This lockout is added on to your target idle RPM, so if your target idle is 1000RPM and your lockout is 1500RPM, then the ecu will try to take over idle control at 2500RPM, closing the idle valve trying to bring the RPM down to target. Also, the minimum clamp needs to be set to 15% on these valves. Your Aux 2 frequency is set to 100Hz (I notice our E36 base map is also), that seems lower than expected to me. The last car I tuned with the bosch 3 wire valve I used 200Hz and had good control range. There are some odd spikes of low ignition dwell recorded in the log. This may indicate a trigger issue. Can you do a triggerscope at idle.
  30. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  31. 1 point
    JMP

    What is wrong with my tune?

    on a second look this morning, your tuner has also used both the charge temp approximation table and the IAT Fuel Trim Table, without much correlation between the two. Same with using modeled fuel mode and the warm up enrichment table is still in use as you would in a traditional fuel mode setup. whole map/config likely needs revisiting
  32. 1 point
    JMP

    Tacho signal to high voltage AE86 tacho

    yes, I've done it many times. Follow the attached guide and it will work perfectly ae86 gze tacho translated final.pdf
  33. 1 point
    cj

    L/100km from Inst. Fuel consumption.

    kph value / 60 = km per min (a) inst fuel (in cc/min) / 1000 = Litres per min (b) with these 2 values now both in X per min, you can remove the "minutes" from the equation and use the 2 values as Kilometers per Litre so (a/b) To calculate it as km per (whole) Litre, multiply a by 1/b to change it from km per litre, to litre per 100km, you take 100 divide by the km-L value Example: 50kph, 150cc/min 50kph / 60 = 0.8333 km/min 150cc-min / 1000 = 0.15 L/min now that "minutes" is constant to both numbers you can simply remove it to give 0.8333km per 0.15L mulitplication factor is 1/0.2L = 6.666 so 0.83333km x6.666 = 5.55 km/L 100/5.55 = 18.01 L per 100km
  34. 1 point
    Adamw

    Thunder lambda sensors

    Im not convinced if it is actually caused by electrical noise or if it is actually the throttle blade moving due to vibration or poor adjustment or lumpy vacuum etc. The "noise" seems to mostly disappear when you open the throttle. Has the cable got plenty of free play and the throttle blade is sitting on a mechanical stop etc? What is the throttle body on this thing? Note you need to calibate your TPS as it is showing 40% at idle.
  35. 1 point
    iecku.tavea racing

    Electronic Wastegate Actuator

    @Adamw I try to get some data for you! Perhaps the video already tells you enough. I talked to my VW/Audi guys...it is no problem to use these actuators on RS3 with upgraded turbo to ~2,5bar boost.(Tested!)
  36. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Cold Start

    Can you post a log of the start up? That would help. Also, check the idle valve isn't stuck, that's quite common. To free them up, we take them out, leave them connected and spray some penetrating fluid in, while setting the aux out to PWM test at about 10Hz. At a glance, I would increase your max. clamp in the idle speed settings, and also try a higher idle proportional gain. (although your idle screw might need opening a touch) HTH, Richard.
  37. 1 point
    Kenian

    LINK G4+

    I beleive that this is correct - just like a sr20DE i setup recently both trig 1 and trig 2 are driven off the CAS that is located inside the distributor cap and no crank trigger is needed. Ive just had a quick google on trigger setup for this engine and there seems to be alot of info on Megasquirt formums regarding trigger wiring etc. You can most likely get your answers off that.
  38. 1 point
    It'll download if you're signed into the forum, it won't work otherwise.
  39. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  40. 1 point
    Change that to : Driven wheel speed source is set to: OFF Non driven wheel speed source is set to: LF Wheel Speed
  41. 1 point
    Rob W

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    Well said Ken. I mentioned in another forum that the wideband only measures "burnt fuel" and the cams skew the readings. Mine Ej engine runs best at cruise .9-.95 with cams rather than the more traditional 1.0+
  42. 1 point
    Brendon001

    Warm start issue

    Hi timmy. Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required
  43. 1 point
    Stevieturbo

    Traction control on AWD

    I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's. As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable. Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed. But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken. Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.
  44. 1 point
    Adamw

    2JZ Which Cam Sensor?

    Either is fine, the only difference is the trigger offset will be different by 360 deg depending which one you use. Our Supra plug-in uses the rear sensor.
  45. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    Same as your fuel table, so TP would be my suggestion.
  46. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    I actually think *3338 shouldnt be on the website still. *3338b is the correct one. From memory *3338 had problems connecting to old firmware. For best resolution it is better to have a smaller master and bigger values in the fuel table. The main thing you want to avoid is really small numbers in the fuel table - say if your biggest number is 30% you are going to struggle to tune idle. The general advice is pick a master fuel that gives you numbers around 50% in the middle of your fuel table. Correct, they are basically the same, just using the trim you can get a finer adjustment.
  47. 1 point
    quattro5v

    Audi TT 1.8 20V Trigger errors

    Good to see you found the issue.
  48. 1 point
    Stevieturbo

    Boost control. Under no load

    A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ? Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
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