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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2018 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  2. 2 points
    Just wanted to clear the VAG coil wiring diagram. These coils have two ground connections when in the OEM installation . One is for the secondary coil - wired to the cyl head. The second is for the coil driver - wired to the chassis/ecu ground.
  3. 2 points
    There we go. Granted the RPM line itself is smoother than what i suspected. Could be because of slow logging rate. What gives it away to me though is looking at the RPM ROC parameter. Thats RPM Rate Of Change. How much the RPM changes over a second. Anything over 0 meens RPM is rising at a certain rate and below 0 means its falling. We bot KNOW you are accelerating so the CRANK is certainly not slowing down, right? However you can see i both my screenshots that the ECU is logging a very erratic RPM ROC. It should ALWAYS be on the positive side when the engine is accelerating. That IS the CAS flapping around. There is also some knock registered in one of the logs. I bet because of unstable timing. Never mind me saying it looked smoother than expected. I just wasnt looking close enough at it. Its actually one of the worst i have ever seen You sir, are going to install a cranktrigger before it breaks down completely
  4. 1 point
    This is how i would wire it. Start with basic triggering before PWM pump so you know all 4 work. Sorry about the crap paint skills
  5. 1 point
    you can def activate more than 1 aux in test mode. but the way you have it set up now, your aux 1 is sending out a ground when on, aux 7 is sending out 12v.
  6. 1 point
    I don't see any problem with the set up. Why is Aux 7 set to high polarity tho? if it works like that it would suggest there is a problem with the wiring. polarity = high means it works inverted to normal, so the aux output is off to command the fuel pump to turn on?
  7. 1 point
    I'm overseas on holiday so have only had a brief look, but the first thing I see is the MAP is reading wrong. As per the manual you need to make sure all inputs are set up, calibrated and reading correctly before starting . It should read near 100kpa with the engine off, yours is reading 25kpa.
  8. 1 point

    PCLink Software Issues

    It's a graphics driver issue, fixed it for 5.6.6
  9. 1 point

    Wiring Questions for Gracey

    Nitrous activation would likely go to one of the DI inputs, pressure switch could go to a spare DI or Volt input, all depends on what you have spare in your ECU configuration If you're connecting the innovate analogue output to the ECU, you would use one of the spare Volt inputs
  10. 1 point

    Warm start issue

    Hi timmy. Tried the above suggestion and would work with increased values when IAT sensor was around 50-60 degrees but then when at 90degrees ECT and normal 20degrees IAT engine would flood and foul plugs. Ended up leaving those settings and doing similiar to the HP academy 350z tune and put positive values in the 0%TPS row from 40degrees to 80degrees IAT on the IAT compensation table, starts perfect any temperature now and even when the sensor heat soaks after 10-30 minutes the positive values give the extra fuel required
  11. 1 point

    CAN to Dash on a plug in

    You will only have two wires soldered into the CANF plug as per the pic above, CAN H & CAN L. It will then not interrupt PC communication.
  12. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    CAN to Dash on a plug in

    At the ECU end, white is can high or +, green is can low or -, connect these to the corresponding white CAN1+, and blue CAN1- at the dash end. HTH, Richard.
  13. 1 point

    Traction control on AWD

    I think you have too high expectations of what traction control might do especially on a 4wd application.....unless it was some extremely sophisticated setup, which a Link ecu isnt going to offer, or indeed most ecu's. As said, straight line stuff is fairly easy, but the impact TC can have on the driving dynamics...or if you get it wrong, can make them horrible to drive and in some cases unsafe and unpredictable. Much the same way many people really dislike OEM style traction control, which are very well developed. But yes, you need data, and lots of it. Wheel speeds, g forces, steering angles, brake inputs etc to all get a picture of how the driver handles the car and what action might need taken. Although those slicks sound huge, even 8" wide Avon's are enough to take a 4wd car onto two wheels around some corners.
  14. 1 point

    Help needed with ecu for cooper s

    The factory "post supercharger" MAP sensor is normally used, it is rated for 2.5Bar absolute (approx 1.5Bar boost), assuming you are not planning to run boost higher than that then the factory one is fine. This is already set up in our base map so you dont need to do anything, it will work out of the box. The pre-supercharger sensor is also connected to the ECU and can be logged or used for diagnostics but it is generally not used as part of the engine control. For the CAN lambda, the most common method to connect is by using our CANPCB adapter cable and the mating CANF plug, you still need to run your own wires from the CAN Lambda to the CANF plug though. A pic to show this set up is below. Some dealers may also offer a pre-fabricated loom to make life easier, here is an example from NZEFI: http://www.nzefi.com/wp-content/uploads/NZEFI-Link-G4-G4-ECU-to-CAN-Device-Cables.jpg
  15. 1 point

    4G93T MBT?

    Hydraulic lifters should have zero lash and be near silent. If they are making that much noise you cant hear knock then there is either something wrong with them or the rocker geometry or cam profile.
  16. 1 point
    There are any number of trigger wheels available in terms of size, diameter, tooth setup, it shouldnt be too difficult to fab something up for a solid reliable trigger. On my old RV8 and now LS, I just machined the rear side of the crank pulley a little then welded a 36-1 wheel onto them and added a VR sensor ( done before the LS 24x was accommodated on most systems, although the 24x wheel they use is shite and I wouldnt use it now anwyay ) Trigger setups can be done very cheaply if you want. My wheel and sensor would easily be less than £100 total.
  17. 1 point
    I fabbed a simple bracket and bolted it to my ac pump bracket. Drilled and tapped. I have also seen it bolted to the other side of the oilpump on a simple bracket. See if you can find pictures by member lostsoul here or at the aus300zx forum.
  18. 1 point

    evo 4 issue cant figure out

    boost gear wastegate trim table is -100% Evo4-8 default base map is -100% I'd like to fix this in the next update
  19. 1 point

    AEM wideband wiring

    That is the part number for the gauge cup, it doesnt tell me much about the device you have. The common AEM wideband controllers are 30-4110, 30-4100, 30-5130, 30-0300. Look these up online and tell me which one yours looks like.
  20. 1 point
    iecku.tavea racing

    3sgte knock gain

    Attached a typical 3SGTE Gen3 Knock Setup with the Bosch Sensor....
  21. 1 point

    Swifts track car

    Thanks so much to the Link Support guys...Adam...Simon...I have absolutely hammered them with Numpty questions. Its going well...steep learning curve for me...but all sensors, switches and triggers are working. Coil on plugs and injectors test fine. Next is the e throttle setup. Im glad I bought the Link extreme....the support is worth it...I'd be lost without the help.
  22. 1 point
    I have this working now but i do not see the wide band connected to AN Volt2 or any other sensor connected to AN Volt (oil pressure, Oil Temp, fuel pressure) Is there anything i need to change somewhere? Thanks in advance
  23. 1 point


    Our current 6 CAN ID's allowance is not normally much of a limitation for the market our ECU's are used in. Most motorsport devices allow sequential or compound messaging which allow you to send multiple data words on the same ID. It is usually just odd proprietary stuff like AEMNET or trying to duplicate an OEM CAN bus that needs multiple ID's. It would be nice to have more ID's but there is a finite amount of memory in the ECU so the allowance that is given to CAN functions has to be balanced against other features that users want. I suspect you wont find it a limitation at all.
  24. 1 point
    James Berry


    Hi i require a 1JZ VVTI base map if possible many thanks. Link G4+ Storm ECU
  25. 1 point

    Trigger 3s gen4

    HI Kenny, You will need to set the Trigger Mode to Multitooth/Missing. Trig 1 will have a Tooth Count of 36 and a Missing Teeth of 2. The Multi-tooth Posn will be Crank. Trig 2 will have the Sync Mode set to Cam Pulse 1x.